f 



Robtv^9>DV>. Alfred 

LIFE m OALIFOMIA: 

DURING A 

RESIDENCE OF SEVERAL YEARS LN THAT TERRITORY, 

COMPRISING A 

DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY AND THE 
MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENTS, 

WITH 

INCIDENTS, OBSERVATIONS, ETC., ETC. 

! 

\ ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. 

BY AN AMERICAN. 

TO WHICH IS ANNEXED 

A HISTORICAL ACCOUNT 

OF THE 

ORIGIN, CUSTOMS, AND TRADITIONS, 

OF 

THE INDIANS OF ALTA-CALIFORNIA. 

TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL SPANISH MANUSCRIPT. 



NEW YORK: 
PUBLISHED BY WILEY & PUTNAM, 

No. 161 BROADWAY. 

1846. 



" " 6. IX 



<i^ 



^^.A 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in tlie year 1846, 

BY A. ROBINSON. 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States 

for the Southern District of New York. 



STEREOTYPED BY T. B. SMITH, 
216 W1LLIA.M STKEET, NEW YORK. 



TO 

WILLIAM STURGIS, ESQ., 

OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, 

ONE OF THE EARLY ADVENTURERS 
TO THE WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 

THIS VOLUME 

IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY 

THE AUTHOR, 



INTRODUCTION. 



In venturing to submit the following work to public no- 
tice, the writer would respectfully state, that it was origin- 
ally intended as an introduction only, to his translation of 
Father Boscana's " Historical Account of the Indians of Cal- 
ifornia ;" but owing to the increasing interest manifested for 
the fate of that fair portion of the North American Conti- 
nent, he has been induced to extend his first views, that he 
might lay before the reader a simple statement, respecting 
the country, and its political progress, from the time when 
Mexico became free from Spanish dominion. It has been 
his object to confine himself, as much as possible, to those 
events which came under his own personal observation, and, 
though possessing but few notes to which he could refer, he 
has endeavored to connect the historical with the political 
incidents, so that their dates may be depended upon. 

Alta California is called a Territory, and is under the 
control of the general government of Mexico, which ap- 
points its Governor and subordinate officers. It extends 



I 



VI INTRODUCTION. 

along the border of the great Pacific, which bounds it on 
the west. On the east, it is bounded by a range of the 
Cordilleras and the Indian territory. The northern limit is 
to the forty-second degree of north latitude, and the south- 
ern boundary extends to the Presidio of St. Diego, or a little 
further south. 

The writer has gleaned the early history from a cel- 
ebrated work of Padre Miguel Vanegas, who says, " The 
" country of which we are to treat, is known on the maps 
" under three distinct names : first, ' California,' — second, 
« ' New Albion'— -third, ' Islas Carolinas.' That of Cal- 
" ifornia is the most ancient, for we find it in the work of 
" Bernal Diaz del Castillo, a soldier of Hernan Cortez ; his 
" companion in the conquest of Mexico, and afterwards his 
"historian." The name of New Albion was given by Sir 
Francis Drake in 1577, on his second voyage round the 
world. The name of Islas Carolinas was given a hundred 
years afterwards in honor of King Charles the Second of 
Spain, when he projected the conquest of California, which 
at that time was supposed to be an island. 

It is thought by some writers, that the name " California," 
was given by the Spaniards, in congiequence of the uncom- 
mon heat which they experienced, on their first visit, and 
was derived from the two Latin words calida and fornax. 
Father Vanegas thinks differently ; lie says, " The name 
" originated accidentally, from a wrong pronunciation, as 



INTRODUCTION. Vll 

" might have occurred in the sounding of any Indian ex- 
"pression, badly understood by the Spaniards." 
/^The whole of Upper California was left entirely to the 
control of the Franciscan Friars ; while the Dominicans 
were entrusted with the lower province. From 1769 until 
1776, no less than nineteen missions were founded — another 
in 1817, and one more in 1823, which are all that have ever 
been established. These were the germs of Spanish col- 
onization, which were advanced under the protection of four 
Presidios, or military fortresses; viz., St. Diego, S^nta 
Barbara, Monterey, and St. Francisco ; from whence troops 
could be marched at any moment, if requisite. The pros- 
perity of these missions was great until the year 1824, since 
which they have gradually depreciated, and are now almost 
entirely destroyed. / 

The shore in some places is lessened by the near approach 
of a range of mountains toward the sea ; but there are 
spacious openings, which are capable of great improvement. 
In these openings, or valleys, the missions are located, and 
are so distanced as to be of great convenience to the trav- 
eller. 

In the many revulsions suffered by Mexico from political 
struggles, California has had her share of domestic disturb- 
ances ; and for years past it has been the scene of numerous 
conflicts. The natives possess an inveterate dislike towards 
the Mexicans, which has given rise to sundry revolutions in 



VUl INTRODUCTION. 

their government. The time is not far distant when they 
will cease from such broils, and either become consolidated 
into an independent form of government, or be the subjects 
of foreign administration. Immigration will aid the former, 
while the attractions of its magnificent and giant harbor 
of St. Francisco may, in a very few years, effect the latter. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

First Attempt of the Spaniards to Colonize Alta Califomia. — Their De- 
parture from Acapulco. — Their Return to New Spain. — Second De- 
parture for Califomia. — Their Arrival at St. Diego. — Founding of their 
First Mission. — Success of their Labors. — Departure of the Writer 
fVom Boston. — Incidents on the Voyage. — Arrival at Valparaiso. — 
Departure for California. — St. Felix and St. Ambrose. — Arrival at 
Monterey, Page 1 



CHAPTER II. 

Monterey as seen from the Ship. — A Visit to the Commandante. — 
Reception. — Unexpected Restrictions upon Commerce. — Preparations 
for a Departure. — Description of Monterey. — Departure for St. Diego. 
— Dangerous Navigation in the Bay. — Arrival at St. Diego. — A 
Visit to the Presidio. — Description of the same. — General Echeandia. 
— Climate. — An Entertainment on Board. — Vessels iu Port. — Matri- 
monial Adventure, 10 



CHAPTER III. 

Journey to St. Pedro, and Departure of the Ship. — Don Manuel and his 
•' Sancho Panza." — Arrival at St. Diegito. — St. Luis Rey. — Pddre 
Antonio Peyri. — Description of the Mission. — Rancho de las Flores. 
— Mission of St. Juan. — Mayordomo. — *' Cuatro Ojos." — Rancho de 
Santa Ana. Don Tomeis Yorba. — St. Gabriel. — Pddre Jos^ Sanchez* 
— Mass. — Gambling. — A Yankee. — Mission of St. Fernando. — Padre 
Ybarra. — Pueblo de los Angeles. — St Pedro. — Incidents of Tra- 
ding, 22 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Departure for Santa Barbara. — Arrival. — The Presidio. — Landing 
through the Surf. — Friend Daniel. — A Ride on Muleback. — Visit to 
Dona Maria Antonia. — House of Friend Daniel. — Mission of Santa 
Barbara. — Female Costume. — Missions of St. Ynes and Purisima. — 
Rancho del Refugio. — St. Buenaventura. — Return to St. Diego. — 
House Blessing. — Fandango, 40 



CHAPTER V. 

Departure for San Francisco. — Farallones Islands. — Yerba Buena. — 
Comandante. — The Presidio. — Journey to Santa Clara. — Mission 
of Dolores. — Rancho de las Pulgas. — Mission of Santa Clara. — San 
Francisco. — Departure for Monterey and Santa Barbara. — ^Journey 
to San Pedro. — Ride by Moonlight. — Tiburcio Tapia, . . 55 



CHAPTER VI. 

Residence in St. Diego. — Practice of Medicine. — Evening's i^xnuse- 
ments. — Pastores. — La Noche Buena. — Insurrection in the North. — 
Departure of Echeandia and his Troops. — Defeat of the Rebels. — 
" Hide Park." — Hide Stealing. — Embarkation. — Pueblo de San Jos^. 
— Its Inhabitants. — Mission of San Jose. — Pddre Narciso Duran. — Per- 
ilous Adventure in a Boat. — Sailing out of San Francisco. — Journey 
from Monterey to Santa Barbara. — Buena Vista. — La Soledad. — San 
Antonio. — San Miguel. — Hot Springs. — Santa Margarita. — St. Luis 
Obispo. — Guadaloupe. — Matanzas. — A Chance Shot. — Landing Car- 
go at Santa Barbara. — New Residence on Shore, . 65 



CHAPTER VII. 

Mass at Santa Barbara. — Yankee Ingenuity. — Riding in California. — 
An Indian Game. — Temescal. — Secularizaticn of the Missions. — A 
NewT General for California. — Fire on the Mountains. — Execution of 
two Indians. — Sulphurous Spring. — A Launch. — A New Companion. 
— Choyas. — A Bear and Bull Bait. — Pddre Luis and his Comical En- 
glish. — David Douglaea, Ego. — St. Juan Bautista. — Pddre Arroyo. — 



CONTENTS. XI 

A Night with the Fleas. — A Califomian Farm-House. — A Priest's 
Travelling Carriage. — An Indian Festival, , .91 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Interesting News. — Another Revolution. — Arrival of Gen. Victoria with 
Troops. — Defeat of Victoria. — His Expulsion. — A new Government. 
— Pio Pico Governor. — Arrival of the banished Priests. — Opposition 
of the North to the South.— State of Santa Barbara.~A Good Joke. 
— Ruinous Condition of the Indians. — Sail ho I . . .117 



CHAPTER IX. 

Another Cruise. — A " Ranchero's" Perplexity. — Pudding Sauce, not 
Soup. — A Backwoodsman. — Heavy Rains. — Marriage Ceremony.— 
Fiesta de Boda. — Carnestolendas. — Battle with Eggs. — Pddre Antonio 
and Friar Menendez. — A Severe Gale. — Dangerous Passage into San 
Francisco. — Safe Arrival. — General Jose Figueroa. — " Administra- 
dor" of the Customs, alias "El Pintito." — Patriotism! — ".Hanging 
On." — Narrow Escape from Shipwreck. — A Departure for Boston. — 
A Visit to the Farallones. — Seal Fishery. — Roadstead of St. Juan. — 
Seizure at San Francisco. — Drought. — Procession for Rain, , 129 



CHAPTER X, 

Dividing of the Missions. — Sporting at Santa Barbara. — Arrival of the 
Ship " California." — Accident to G. — Supposed Revolutionary Designs. 
— Rumors. — Determination of the Priests. — Destruction of the Mis- 
sions. — A new Appointment. — Arrival of the Colonists. — Senor Hijar. 
— Plan of the Colonists. — Appointment of " Administradores" to the 
Missions. — Death of Figueroa. — Proceedings of the " Excelentisimn 
Diputacion." — Burial of Figueroa at Santa Barbara. — A new Gov- 
ernor. — His Disgrace. — Nicolas Gutierrez. — Disturbance at Monte- 
rey. — Juan B. Alvarado. — A Bold Tennessean. — .Surrender of the 
Mexicans. — Declaration of Independence. — Its Consequences in 
Mexico, ........... 151 



XU CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XI. 

Echeandia's Policy. — Don Carlos Carrillo appointed Governor.— War 
against his Nephew. — Is defeated. — Singular Approval of the Mexican 
Government. — Central Government. — Alvarado's wounded Dignity. 
— His Disgust for the Foreigners. — False Charges of Rebellion. — 
Seizure and Imprisonment of the Foreigners. — Their Banishment to 
Mexico. — Proclamation of Alvarado. — Arrival of an American and a 
French Sloop of War. — Consternation of Alvarado. — Satisfaction 
given to the Captain of the St. Louis. — Desertion of St. Diego. — 
Consequences of Secularization. — A Ride to the Pueblo. — Return of 
the Foreigners. — Mines. — Anglo-Califomian Justice. — Temblores. — 
Rodeo. — Sad Incident. — Important News. — Arrival of a Bishop. — His 
Reception. — Arrival of Sir George S and Gov. McL ', 178 



CHAPTER XII. 

A " Merienda." — A Trip into the Interior. — Rancho de San Juan del 
Rio. — Arrival of Micheltorena. — His Reception at St. Diego. — Mex- 
ican Soldiery ! — A Bull-fight. — War with the United States. — Cap- 
ture of Monterey by the American Squadron under Commodore 
Jones. — Micheltorena's Flight. — His Subsequent Return and Estab- 
lishment at Monterey. — Another Revolution. — A Battle. — Defeat of 
Micheltorena. — Expulsion of the Mexicans. — A New Governor, 208 

CONCLUSION, 215 



# 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



1. View of the Town of Santa Barbara, 

2. View of the Mission of St. Luis Rey, 

3. View of the Mission of St. Gabriel, 

4. View of the Presidio of Santa Barbara, 

5. View of the Mission of Santa Barbara, 

6. View of the Mission of St. Buenaventura, 

7. View of the Place of Anchorage at " Verba Buena," 

8. Portrait of Father Geronirao Boscana, 

9. An Indian, dressed m the " Tobet," 



Frontispiece 

Page 24 

33 

41 

45 

49 

56 

Frontispiece 2d. 

. 290 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 



CHAPTER I. 

First Attempt of the Spaniards to Colonize Alta California. — Their De- 
parture from Acapulco. — Their Return to New Spain. — Second De- 
parture for California. — Their Arrival at St. Diego. — Founding of their 
First Mission. — Success of their Labors. — Departure of the Writer 
from Boston. — Incidents on the Voyage. — Arrival at Valparaiso. — 
Departure for California. — St, Felix and St. Ambrose. — Arrival at 
Monterey. 

Numerous attempts were made during the reign of 
Philip the Second of Spain to colonize the Peninsula of 
Cahfornia ; but it was not until the reign of his son and 
successor, "Philip the Third," that the efforts of the 
Spaniards met with any success. This sovereign, insti- 
gated by the same political policy as his father, in the 
year 1599, despatched orders to the Count de Monte Rey, 
then commander of the Colony of New Spain, directing 
him, at the expense of the treasury, regardless of the cost 
of the enterprise, to use all possible diligence in making 
new discoveries, and, above all, further entrance into 
Alta California. Accordingly, the Viceroy, after much 
deliberation, to ensure the success of a project that exci- 

2 



2 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ted so much enthusiasm, and caused so many calamities 
during the previous century, appointed as Captain Gen- 
eral of the proposed expedition, " Don Sebastian Yis- 
caino," who had once before commanded on a similar 
voyage, and who, on this occasion, seemed indefatigable 
in his endeavors to forward the interests of the enter- 
prise. 

Everything being ready, on the 5th of May, 1602, the 
General made sail from the port of Acapulco. His fleet 
consisted of two ships and a. frigate, together with a small 
vessel with one mast and drawing but little water, to be 
used on occasions when the larger vessels would have 
been impracticable. He was accompanied by three re- 
hgious Carmelites ; one of whom. Friar Antonio de la 
Ascension, wrote a long account of the voyage, where- 
by it appears that Viscaino made actual survey of the 
coast, up to the latitude of Capes Mendicino and Blanco. 
They visited a large port near the " Pimta de Pmos" 
which, in honor of the Viceroy, they named " Monterey." 
St. Diego was also explored, and another port in the 
neighborhood, which undoubtedly was St. Pedro. 

Their hardships, infirmities, and dangers were so great, 
that to maintain themselves long on the coast was im- 
possible ; and, in consequence, they returned to New 
Spain, after an absence of nearly eleven months, and 
anchored in Acapulco, in the latter part of March, 1603. 

From this time, no particular attention was called to 
the acquisition and occupancy of Alta California, until 
the expulsion of the Jesuits, in 1768 ; when Padre Juni- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 



pero Serra, of the order of St. Francisco, was appointed 
presiding missionary of the Californias. On the 12th of 
March, 1769, he embarked for Loreto, in company with 
sixteen others of the same College. They arrived in 
safety, and immediately commenced operations for a 
northern enterprise ; cattle were driven across the moun- 
tains, and a naval and land expedition departed at dif- 
ferent periods, for the purpose of uniting at St. Diego, to 
co-operate in the spiritual conquest. The latter, under 
the command of the Governor, Don Gas par Portala, and 
Padre Junipero, arrived on the first of July, 1769, and 
found the ships at anchor, which had arrived nearly two 
months before them. Mutual congratulations passed be- 
tween the officers ; surveys were commenced ; the coun- 
try was explored ; and here, in this wild, uncultivated 
spot, they erected their first Mission, and named it, in 
honor of the patron saint of Spain, " St. Diego." 

It was not until the succeeding year that San Carlos 
was founded at Monterey; and in 1771, when other rev- 
erend Padres arrived from St. Bias, they established the 
Missions of St. Antonio and St. Gabriel. Thus, by occa- 
sional succor from the Viceroy of Mexico, the holy enter- 
prise prospered; new Missions were founded, and the 
missionaries beheld with rapture the success and triumph 
of the Cross. 

More than half a century had passed by. Father Ju- 
nipero was no more, and the few faithful companions of 
his pilgrimage to this distant land had, like him, found 
rest from their labors in the tomb ; others had filled their 



4 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

places ; and notwithstanding that the subversion of 
Spanish dominion in Mexico, and subsequent change to 
a repubhcan form of government, had somewhat lessen- 
ed their zeal ; yet the neophyte was protected, conquests 
increased, and the abundance of the warehouses and 
granaries continued to be distributed with the same fos- 
tering liberality. 

At this period the writer embarked at Boston on a voy^ 
age to the North-west coast of America. It was on a 
beautiful morning in July, 1828, and our noble craft 
slipped quietly down the bay with a light wind from the 
south-west. The breeze soon freshened, and the sight 
of the friends who had accompanied us to the wharf, the 
buildings, the steeples, and the neighboring hills, all 
gradually grew fainter and fainter, " till like a dream 
they passed away." 

The pilot left us — and at sunset I stood gazing on the 
dim outUne of our native land, which, like a cloud, ap- 
peared slowly fading in the west, till naught remained to 
gaze upon but the distant horizon. Night passed, and 
morning came ; and with it all the routine of a sailor's 
life, such as usually accompanies the first few days of a 
long voyage; clearing decks, stowing cables, securing 
spars, &c., and then followed, day after day, the same 
monotonous and tedious scenes, with nothing to reheve 
them from their wearisomeness, or incident worthy of 
consideration, till three long months had expired, when 
we opened upon the Pacific — the great South Sea. 

Our ship ghdes on, and as the mighty wave comes 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 5 

slowly rolling from the west, she, with equal sublimity, 
rises to the element and then sinks majestically into its 
course below, as if in courteous recognition of its ap- 
proach. Wave after wave rolls on, wave after wave is 
left behind, and thus she pursues unchangingly her 
destined course. But the scene changes. Thick 
clouds appear in the horizon, whose quick advance and 
fearful aspect betoken the coming storm ! the ship is 
prepared to meet its fury — sail after sail is taken in, till 
from a top-gallant studding sail, and running before 
the wind, she is lying to, reduced to a close-reefed main- 
topsail, and mizen staysail. The storm at length 
comes — cloud after cloud adds new fury to its blasts 
— the sea risesj and in its way w^ould seem to engulf 
all before it — one vast surge comes aboard with heavy 
crash, and sweeps the deck of boats and spars, the bul- 
warks, and all that meets its course. The climate 
changes also ; and cold, snow and hail are added to 
the terrors that surround us. At length, however, 
the storm abates ; sail is made, and we are again 
in apparent security ; but soon it returns with re- 
doubled fury ; and the ship is again lying like a log 
upon the ocean. Thus we proceed, gale succeeding 
gale ! one storm only ceasing, to give place to another 
— our good ship making but little progress, until, at 
last, enabled to take a northerly course, and the wind 
proving favorable, we rapidly leave these tempestuous 
latitudes. A few days of prosperous gales bring us to 
anchor in the pleasant bay of Valparaiso. 

2* 



6 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Our protracted passage of 110 days made it neces- 
sary for us to put in here to replenish our water, and 
after three days' detention we again made sail for the 
port of Monterey. Three days out, we came in sight 
of the Islands of St. Felix and St. Ambrose. When 
about three miles distant from the latter, the mate with 
a few men started off in one of the boats on a fishing 
excursion, and returned after a few hours' absence with 
plenty of fish of different kinds. We next proceeded 
to St. Felix, which bore N.N.W. of us, distant about fif- 
teen miles, and hove to, between the island and sail 
rock, so called from its singular resemblance to a sail 
when seen from a distance. This island is much, larger 
than that of St. Ambrose, and easier of access, though 
equally barren and destitute of vegetation. We found 
here the ruins of a house which had probably been 
erected by some sealing-party, for we saw great num- 
bers of seals lying about among the rocks, and killed 
several ourselves. Sea-birds were abundant — fish, also, 
of which we caught many, and returned on board to 
pursue our voyage. 

From this time no particular occurrence took place 
until we came in sight of land ; and then the weather 
was such that several days intervened ere we could 
learn our true position ; at length, on the afternoon of 
the 15th February, 1829, the fog cleared up and we 
beheld the " Punta de Pinos" bearing east, distant ten 
or twelve miles. This was the outer southern point of 
the bay of Monterey, into which we were soon slowly 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 7 

gliding. The breeze now died away, night closed 
around us, and as we approached our place of anchor- 
age, naught was heard but the occasional cry of the 
leadsman in the chains, or the dip of the oars as the 
boatmen towed us slowly into port. Suddenly a flash 
was seen from the castle, the report followed, and a ball 
came whizzing across our bow, so near the boat as to 
throw upon the men the spray, as it glanced over the 
waters. " Let go the anchor," cried the captain. 
" Aye, aye," answered the mate, and then followed im- 
mediately the splash and the running out of the chain, 
until the heavy iron instrument had found its resting- 
place in the sand. 

A few minutes elapsed when a boat came off from 
the shore containing an officer of the customs and his 
assistant ; sent by the commandant of the " Presidio." 
They appeared much pleased when informed that we 
wished to trade on the coast, and particularly so, when 
made acquainted ^vith the nature and amount of the 
ship's cargo. The conversation soon became general, 
and the more intelligent of the two (Don Manuel Ji- 
meno) gave us an account of the country, its govern- 
ment, missions, and its political condition at that time. 
He spoke also of the affair of the ship Franklin of 
Boston, which had a short time previous been detained 
by the authorities on suspicion of being engaged in 
contraband trade, causing much excitement throughout 
the country, and consequent restrictions on commerce. 
Her flight from the port of St. Diego was thought 



8 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

miraculous, running the gauntlet of a heavy battery 
within pistol shot of the cannon's mouth, and yet es- 
caping without injuiy. On she sailed, leaving her en- 
emies in the distance, little heeding their guns, till, once 
more rolling to the swell of the might}^ ocean, she ap- 
proached Point Loma, when a light cloud was seen to 
emerge from her side, and the report of her cannon 
came reverberating among the hills, as if in derision of 
a government of such weakness and pusillanimity. 

The local government, exasperated by this open de- 
fiance of their authority, sought by more stringent reg- 
ulations of trade to prevent in future any fraud upon 
the revenue; and conscious of its weakness at most of 
the ports along the coast, laid an embargo upon all, 
with the exception of the more strongly fortified places 
of Monterey and St. Diego, at which ports only, foreign 
vessels were allowed to enter and discharge their car- 
goes. 

The officers bade us " buenas noches^'^ and left us 
for the shore, leaving us to ruminate upon the events 
which had passed, and those likely to ensue, with 
many forebodings of the trials and disappointments 
which from the recent change in the revenue laws we 
were probably to encounter. What were we to do? 
With the exception of Monterey and St. Diego, all the 
ports were closed, and we were prohibited from dis- 
charging at any other. This restriction, if insisted 
upon, would overturn all our calculations, and in fact 
ensure a total failure of the voyage. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 9 

Our supercargo, Mr. G., was much perplexed in con- 
sequence, and resolved to write to the Governor at St. 
Diego, setting forth the fact of our having fitted out 
from the United States with the supposition that no 
change would be made in the regulation of commerce ; 
that the recent alteration had not given sufficient time 
for the news to have reached us prior to our departure 
from home, and that consequently, he should take into 
consideration the embarrassment of our situation and 
repeal in some way the restrictions of the new law. 



CHAPTER II. 

Monterey as seen from the Ship. — A Visit to the Commandante. — 
Reception. — Unexpected Restrictions upon Commerce. — Preparations 
for a Departure. — Description of Monterey. — Departure for St. Diego. 
— Dangerous Navigation in the Bay. — Arrival at St. Diego. — A 
Visit to the Presidio. — Description of the same. — General Echeandia. 
— Chmate. — An Entertainment on Board. — Vessels in Port. — Matri- 
monial Adventure. 

The next clay, wlien I was to look for the first time 
upon those shores which were to become for some years 
my home, was necessarily one of great excitement, and 
I hmried on deck much earlier than my usual hour. 
Before us lay stretched out the shore, and as it curved 
away toward the northern extremity of the bay, the 
swell of the ocean, wave after wave, echoed loud and 
heavily upon its sands. The sun had just risen, and 
glittering through the lofty pines that crowned the 
summit of the eastern hills, threw its light upon the 
lawn beneath. On our left was the " Presidio," with 
its chapel dome, and towering flag-staff in conspicuous 
elevation. On the right, upon a rising ground, was 
seen the " Castillo" or fort, surmounted by some ten or 
a dozen cannons. The intervening space between 
these two points was enlivened by the hundred scatter- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 11 

ed dwellings that form the town ; and here and there 
groups of cattle grazing. 

After breakfast, G. and myself went on shore on a 
visit to the Commandant, D. Mariano Estrada, whose 
residence stood in the central part of the town, in the 
usual route from the beach to the Presidio. Its exter- 
nal appearance, notwithstanding it w^as built of adobe 
or brick, made by the mixture of soft mud and straw, 
modelled and dried in the sun, was not displeasing ; for 
the outer walls had been plastered and whitewashed, 
giving it a cheerful and inviting aspect. Like all 
dwellings built in the warm countries of America, it was 
but one story in height, covered with- tifes, and occu- 
pied, in its entire premises, an extensive square. 

Our Don was standing at his door, and as w^e ap- 
proached he, with true Castilian courtesy, sallied forth 
to meet us, embraced G., shook me cordially by the 
hand, then bowed us ceremoniously into the " sala" 
Here we seated ourselves upon a sofa at his right, and 
during conversation " cigarritos" passed freely, and al- 
though thus early in the day, a proffer was made of re- 
freshments. We learned from him that the courier 
was to leave the following morning for St. Diego ; and 
as it was necessary to prepare a petition to the General, 
we soon took leave of our commandant and proceeded 
to the house of Lieutenant Rocha, a friend of G., under 
whose direction the document was to be drawn up. 

During the absence of the courier, who left next day 
with our petition, we determined to prepare the ship for 



12 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

sea, to be enabled to sail immediately in the event of 
an unfavorable answer from the Governor. Accord- 
ingly, the men were employed in replenishing water 
casks, cutting and embarking wood, packing beef, and 
other various duties necessary to our departure. Whilst 
these preparations were going on, I had many opportu- 
nities of visiting the neighboring country, and enjoy- 
ing some friendly intercourse witK the inhabitants. 
Several Englishmen and Americans were residents here, 
who had been married to pretty Califomian women, and 
had settled down^n the peculiar occupations of the 
country. I became acquainted particularly with Mr. 

H and Mr. S , the former from England, and 

connected in business with a mercantile house in Lima, 
having an extensive trade on the coast, and making 
large contracts with the missions. The latter was a 

Scotchman, and a partner of H- . A Yankee sea 

captain from Boston, and several others, were added to 
the number of my new friends, with whom I enjoyed 
many pleasant hours. 

"El Presidio," or town of Monterey, is situated on the 
decUvity of a beautiful rising ground, the top of which is 
crowned with stately pines. The gradual ascent to its 
elevated summit is covered with scattered woods and rich 
and varied flowers. There are many pleasant locations 
in the vicinity, where the natives frequently resort to cel- 
ebrate their festivities or " Meriendas," and many " lagu- 
nas" are scattered throughout the neighborhood, that du- 
ring the winter months are crowded with ducks, whilst 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 13 

the green plains are literally covered with geese. The 
woods contain an abundance to gratify the sportsman, 
and a variety to enchant the botanist. 

Amongst the many useful herbs whose medicinal vir- 
tues have been discovered by the natives, one in particu- 
lar is held in high esteem, since it is by them considered 
a specific for the poisonous bite of the rattlesnake. Its 
peculiar virtues were discovered not long since by an In- 
dian, who seems to have placed the most implicit faith in 
its power, for he submitted himself to be bitten by a 
snake upon the arm. His limbs immediately swelled to 
an extraordinary size, and the poor native seemed just 
ready to expire, when taking a small quantity of the 
herb in his mouth and chewing it, he spat upon the 
wound, and rubbing this into it with his hand, in a short 
time entirely recovered. It is said by the Indians, that 
should any venomous reptile eat of the plant, its death 
would be instantaneous. 

Another of their plants of very useful properties, heals 
the most dangerous wound without the accumulation of 
pus, w^hich is not an ^infrequent attendant upon the ap- 
plication of balsam. Another, called the " Canchelagua," 
is found to be excellent in curing the fever and ague, and 
may be depended upon in any case, no matter of how 
long standing. It abounds all over the coast, and in the 
spring, during the season of flowers, its pretty blossoms 
add much to the beauty of the country. 

At this time the population of the town did not exceed 
one thousand souls, including all the neighboring " Ran- 

3 



14 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

chos ;" and although they annually elected a civil magis- 
trate and two inferior officers, yet the general government 
was a miUtary despotism on a petty scale. The Govern- 
or General resided at St. Diego, where the temperature 
of the climate better agreed w^ith his delicate constitution ; 
so that when any appeal was necessary from the decision 
of the " Alcalde Constitucional," it Avas not unfrequently 
the case that the delay of a month- occurred ere the doc- 
uments were interchanged, and a decisive judgment 
given. 

At length, however, our courier returned. Our petition 
had obtained only a trivial modification of the law which 
permitted us to trade at Santa Barbara in addition to the 
ports before mentioned ; but it required the landing of 
the entire cargo at these places, without any reimburse- 
ment of duties in the event of their re-embarkation. 
This was not sufficient encouragement for us to discharge 
any part of our cargo here, and as G , in private let- 
ters from his friends at the South, had been advised to 
repair thither, he concluded to make one effort more with 
the General. Accordingly, after calling upon the Com- 
mandant, and taking leave of our friends, we set sail for 
St. Diego. 

We kept the ship close into the land until reaching 
Point " Almejas," where we stood well over to the north- 
ern side of the bay. Here the light wind left us entirely, 
and our situation became somewhat critical ; for the 
heavy swell from the ocean, which was constantly in- 
creasing, threatened to drive us upon the coast. But 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 15 

fortunately, a light breeze springing up from the land, 
soon wafted us out into the open sea. This is the only- 
danger to be feared in approaching the coast during the 
night, for the north-west wind during the day usually 
creates a heavy swell of the sea, which continues to roll 
ill long after the breeze ceases. Several vessels have by 
this means been entirely lost, and others much endanger- 
ed, by running too far into the bottom of the bay. 

After passing Point " Pinos," w^e continued our 
course parallel with the coast, making the most prom- 
inent places and islands, until at last we came in sight 
of the bluff point of St. Diego. Here the ship was 

hove to, the boat lowered and manned, and G • 

went up to the Presidio. Satisfactory arrangements 
were made with the Governor, the boat returned, and 
the ship ran in and anchored close under the guns of 
the low fortification. 

Immediately commenced the preparations for a long 
stay. The long boat was hoisted out, the ship moored, 
spars were landed, royal yards and masts, and top-gal- 
lant yards were sent down, and these and all other sur- 
plus rubbish about the decks sent on shore and depos- 
ited. Lumber was discharged, and the carpenter com- 
menced building a large house for the storage of hides, 
which, when finished, served as a place of accommoda- 
tion for the lighter part of our cargo while under tlie 
examination and care of the custom-house officers ; for 
the government as yet had not deemed it important to 
erect an '' Aduana'^ in this port. 



16 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Whilst all this was in progress, G and myself 

visited the Presidio, which was about a league distant 
from the place of anchorage. Horses were sent down 
to us from Don Manuel Domingues, a brother-in-law 

of G . I was unable myself to comprehend the 

use and necessity of all the trappings connected with 
the saddle-gear, which appeared to me cumbrous and 
useless in the extreme ; but my companion, who was an 
old cruiser in these parts, was well acquainted with 
their convenience and necessity ; so with his experience 
as a guide, we galloped off on our excursion. Our 
way was barren of interest till we came suddenly to an 
almost perpendicular descent of some thirty or forty 
feet into a deep and broad ravine, where formerly some 
river had flowed, but its bed was now filled with bushes 
and shrubs. Previous to this we passed a small shanty 
in an unfinished state, which had been erected some 
time before as a Custom-House, but owing to its inca- 
pacity and situation had been abandoned. We saw 
also the commencement of a new Presidio, that, on ac- 
count of the difiiculty of procuring water, had also 
never been completed. These two monuments of the 
imprudence and want of foresight of the Governor, 
served as very good evidence to me of the want of 
sagacity and energy of the government. 

A short ride further brought us to the house of our 
friend Don Manuel. We rode into the "patio," or 
court-yard, where a servant took the horses. At the 
threshold of his door we were met by Don Manuel, who 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 17 

embraced us cordially and presented us to the family, his 
mother, wife, and sister. This was to be our home du- 
ring the ship's detention, and though its coarse mud 
walls and damp ground floor did not altogether coin- 
cide with the idea I had previously formed of it, yet if 
their walls were cold and their floors damp, their hearts 
were warm, and the abundance of their luxurious enter- 
tainment more than compensated for any disappoint- 
ment. 

After dinner we called upon the General Don Jose 
Maria de Echeandia, a tall, gaunt personage, who re- 
ceived us with true Spanish dignity and pohteness. His 
house was located in the centre of a large square of 
buildings occupied by his officers, and so elevated as to 
overlook them all, and command a view of the sea. 
On the right hand was a small Gothic chapel, Avith its 
cemetery, and immediately in front, close to the principal 
entrance, was the guard-room, where the soldiers were 
amusing themselves ; some seated on the ground playing 
cards and smoking, while others were dancing to the 
music of the guitar ; the whole was surrounded by a 
high wall, originally intended as a defence against the 
Indians. At the gate stood a sentinel, with slouched 
hat and blanket thrown over one shoulder, his old Span- 
ish musket resting on the other ; his pantaloons were 
buttoned and ornamented at the knee, below which, his 
legs were protected by leggins of dressed deer-skin, se- 
cured with spangled garters. 

On the lawn beneath the hill on which the Presidio 
3* 



18 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

is built stood about thirty houses of rude appearance, 
mostly occupied by retired veterans, not so well con- 
structed in respect either to beauty or stability as the 
houses at Monterey, with the exception of that belong- 
ing to our " Administrador," Don Juan Bandini, whose 
mansion, then in an unfinished state, bade fair, when 
completed, to surpass any other in the country. 

The chmate of St. Diego is milder than that of any 
other port on the coast, and not so much subject to dense 
fogs as Monterey and St. Francisco. The soil presents 
a barren and uncultivated appearance, and although 
several spots dignified by the name of gardens are found 
upon the banks of a river Avhicli flows from the moun- 
tains during the rainy season, in which they cultivate a 
few vegetables, yet nothing can be seen of any agricul- 
tural importance except in places at some distance from 
the town. The hills and glens abound with many 
kinds of " Cactus," among which the rabbit and quail 
find shelter when pursued by the sportsman. These 
are both very numerous, the latter frequently rising in 
flocks of two or three hundred. Hares are abundant, 
and here also, as at all other places on the coast during 
the rainy season, the plains and ponds are crowded with 
ducks and geese, while thousands of brant cover the ex- 
tensive bay. 

Our accounts with the Custom-House were soon ad- 
justed, and we were prepared to commence our trade. 
Visitors were numerous, both male and female, who came 
on board to purchase. Amongst others, the reverend 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 



1^ 



Padre Antonio Peyri, of the Mission of St. Luis Rey, had 
expressed a wish to visit his many friends on- shipboard, 
for besides our own, there were two other vessels tiien in 
port ; the EngUsh brig Vulture, under charter by H. 
D. P., of Massachusetts (whose matrimonial adventures 
I shall presently relate.), and the Mexican brig Maria 
Ester, from Acapulco. The good old priest was accord- 
ingly invited, and the last day of his visit was to be pass- 
ed with us ; other friends came also, and dinner was pre- 
pared for the occasion. 

As the old gentleman was held in universal respect 
upon the coast, not only as founder of the Mission over 
which he presided, but also as a man of great mental 
energy and capacity ; high in favor with the government 
for these qualities, and being dearly loved by the people 
for the extreme benevolence of his disposition, we prepa- 
red to receive him with " all the honors." Accordingly, 
as the reverend Padre descended the gangway, we thun- 
dered forth a salute, and proceeded to show him the dif- 
ferent parts of the vessel. Particularly did we call his 
attention to our trade-room, w4iich had been fitted up 
with shelves and counters, resembling in appearance a 
country variety, store. The amount of his purchases tes- 
tified how vastly he had been pleased. 

On the following morning he departed, and when the 
boat had reached a short distance from the ship, the men 
laid upon their oars w^hilst our guns sounded a parting 
salute. As the smoke cleared off, I beheld the old man 
standing in the boat, and gazing towards us with appa- 



20 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

rent delight, and I thought I could perceive by the glis- 
tening of his eye, that future patronage would be the 
result of this reception. 

I soon became acquainted with several excellent fam- 
ilies residing at the place, and received from them much 
attention. The ladies were mostly quite handsome, par- 
ticularly those of the famihes of our friends Bandini and 
Carrillo. The daughters of the former were, though 
very young, yet very beautiful ; those of the latter had 
attained to womanhood, and it was with the eldest of 
them that H. D. F. had become enamored. He resolv- 
ed to marry her if he could prevail upon the chaplain of 
the Presidio to perform the ceremony without the neces- 
sary form of becoming a Catholic. But it was the edict 
of the Governor, that no foreigner should marry in the 
country without his special license, and without comply- 
ing with the regulations established by the church ; and 
though the old friar in his heart wished them married, 
yet he dared not disobey the injunctions of a superior. 

But a plan is soon devised. He resolves to carry her 
off and marry her in Lima — the idea is proposed, she 
consents, and parties are appointed to co-operate in the 
scheme. The day arrives for the brig to sail — F. goes 
up to the Presidio to take leave of his friends — bids adieu' 
to his betrothed, and departs for the beach. The vessel 
gets under way — stands out to sea — passes the bluff 
Point Loma, and hauls on a wind to the west. Night 
approaches, and a horseman is seen galloping down the 
road leading to the beach, where a boat is prepared for 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 21 

the reception of some expected visitor — lie alights, and 
assists a lady to dismount, who rode before him — a friend 
receives her — they hurriedly embark — and the boat, as 
she skims over the waves for the distant vessel, is soon 
lost in the gathering darkness of the night. 



CHAPTER III. 

Journey to St. Pedro, and Departure of the Ship. — Don Manuel and his 
" Sancho Panza."— Arrival at St. Diegito. — St. Luis Rey. — Padre 
Antonio Peyri. — Description of the Mission. — Rancho de las Flores. 
— Mission of St. Juan. — Mayordomo. — " Cuatro Ojos." — Rancho de 
Santa Ana. — Don Tomas Yorba. — St. Gabriel. — Padre Jose Sanchez. 
— Mass. — Gambling. — A Yankee. — Mission of St. Fernando. — Padre 
Ybarra. — Pueblo de los Angeles. — St. Pedro. — Incidents of Trading. 

Having accomplished our business for the present at 
St. Diego, the ship sailed for the port of St. Pedro, while 

G and myself performed the journey by land. Horses 

were brought in the evening previous to our departure, 
and secured for the night in the court-yard, so that when 
we arose in the morning they Avere already saddled and 
impatiently standing at the gate. Little time elapsed 
ere we were mounted, and coursing our way across the 
low sandy plain leading from the town to the maiu 
road. Don Manuel accompanied us, and his faithful 
and confidential servant Chulo, who acted usually as a 
kind of Sancho Panza to his master, but on this occa- 
sion led the way, driving before him our extra horses, 
with the luggage. Away he galloped, swinging and 
snapping his "lasso," dextrously throwing it amongst 
them, and singing or whistling the air of some favorite 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 23 

'•'•jotaj'' interrupted by an occasional shout to the animals, 
to urge them forward. 

Thus we proceeded, \vithout any novelty, save the 
change from a smooth and l6vel road to a rocky and rug- 
.ged ascent, or a variation in the music of our worthy 
Chulo, till a few hours' ride brought us to the beautiful 
little valley of St. Diegi to, where we dismounted under a 
shady grove, by the side of a sparkling stream, spread 
our blankets on the grass, and waited impatiently, while 
Chulo prepared our dinner. We had brought provision 
with us, and a fire being kindled, he soon gave us am- 
ple proof of his skill in cookery. A half hour was given 
to our siesta, and we then resumed our journey to St. 
Luis Key. 

We saw no habitations on the route, and the soil was 
one continued waste of barrenness, entirely destitute of 
cultivation. A few scattered trees adorned the road, and 
now and then a deer was seen running over the hills, or 
a hare, or rabbit sat basking in the sun, among the low 
shrubbery. This, wdth the exception of a passing travel- 
ler, or a casual glance of the sea, was all that met the eye 
during a ride of forty miles. The great number of hills 
which it is necessary to surmount makes the way very 
tedious, and to the traveller they seem almost endless, un- 
til at length he perceives from the top of one of them, far 
beneath, in the centre of a beautiful vale, the Mission, 
with its cultivated grounds and gardens. 

It was yet early in the afternoon when we rode up to 
the establishment, at the entrance of which many In- 



24 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

dians had congregated to behold us, and as we dismount- 
ed, some stood ready to take off our spurs, whilst others 
unsaddled the horses. The reverend father was at pray- 
ers, and some time elapsed ere he came, giving us a most 
cordial reception. Chocolate and refreshments were at 
once ordered for us, and rooms where we might arrange 
our dress, which had become somewhat soiled by the 
dust. 

/This Mission was founded in the year 1798, by its 
present minister, father Antonio Peyri, who had been for 
many years a reformer and director among the Indians. 
At this time (1829) its population was about three thou- 
sand Indians, who were all employed in various occupa- 
tions. Some were engaged in agriculture, while others 
attended to the management of over sixty thousand head 
of cattle. Many were carpenters, masons, coopers, sad- 
dlers, shoemakers, weavers, (fee, while the females were 
employed in spinning and preparing wool for their looms, 
which produced a sufficiency of blankets for their yearly 
consumption. Thus every one had his particular voca- 
tion, and each department its official superintendent, or 
alcalde ; these were subject to the supervision of one or 
more Spanish mayordomos^ who were appointed by the 
missionary father, and consequently under his immediate 
direction. 

The building occupies a large square, of at least eighty 
or ninety yards each side ; forming an extensive area, in 
the centre of which a fountain constantly supphes the 
establishment with pure water. The front is protected 



ii. > J^i <3^ • 



w 



1^^ 




LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 25 

by a long corridor, supported by thirty-two arches, orna- 
mented with latticed raihngs, which, together with the 
fine appearance of the church on tiie right, presents an 
attractive view to the traveller ; the interior is divided 
into apartments for the missionary and mayordomos, 
store-rooms, workshops, hospitals, rooms for unmarried 
males and females, while near at hand is a range of 
buildings tenanted by the families of the superintendents. 
There is also a guard-house, where were stationed some 
ten or a dozen soldiers, and in the rear spacious grana- 
ries stored with an abundance of wheat, corn, beans, peas, 
&c. ; also large enclosures for wagons, carts, and the 
implements of agriculture. In the interior of the square 
might be seen the various trades at work, presenting a 
scene not dissimilar to some of the working departments 
of our state prisons. Adjoining are two large gardens, 
which supply the table with fruit and vegetables, and 
two or three large " ranchos''' or farms are situated from 
five to eight leagues distant, where the Indians are em- 
ployed in cultivation and domesticating cattle. 

The church is a large, stone edifice, whose exterior is 
not without some considerable ornament and tasteful 
finish ; but the interior is richer, and the walls are adorn- 
ed with a variety of pictures of saints and Scripture sub- 
jects, glaringly colored, and attractive to the eye. Around 
the altar are many images of the saints, and the tall and 
massive candelabras, lighted during mass, throw an im- 
posing light upon the whole. / 

Mass is offered daily, and the greater portion of the In^ 
4 



26 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

dians attend ; but it is not unusual to see numbers of 
them driven along by alcaldes, and under the whip's lash 
forced to the very doors of the sanctuary. The men are 
placed generally upon the left, and the females occupy 
the right of the church, so that a passage way or aisle is 
formed between them from the principal entrance to the 
altar, where zealous officials are stationed to enforce si- 
lence and attention. At evening again, " El Rosario" is 
prayed, and a second time all assemble to participate in 
supplication to the Virgin. 

The condition of these Indians is miserable indeed ; 
and it is not to be wondered at that many attempt to 
escape from the severity of the religious discipline at the 
Mission. They are pursued, and generally taken ; when 
they are flogged, and an iron clog is fastened to their 
legs, serving as additional punishment, and a warning 
to others. 

Remaming here but a few days, Ave then continued 
our journey towards the mission of St. Juan Capistrano, 
distant about ten leagues. After taking leave of our 
hospitable friend, w^e mounted our horses and rode on 
without meeting any place worthy of notice till we came 
to the " Rancho de las Flores," one of the cattle estab- 
lishments of San Luis. It is situated on an eminence 
commanding a view of the sea, with the distant islands 
St. Clemente and Catalina, and overlooking an adja- 
cent level, extending for miles around, covered with 
thousands of animals grazing. A few inferior gardens 
are scattered about in the little valleys, cultivated by 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 27 

the Indians, for their own personal benefit, and in which 
they are permitted to labor when not required to give 
their time to the interests of the Mission. 

Not many leagues further brought us to a beautiful 
spot in the centre of an opening in the highlands, ex- 
tending from the beach to the distant mountains. A 
small river flowed down the glen toward the sea, but 
the constant action of the surf upon the sand had 
dammed up its mouth and formed it into a lake. We 
halted on its margin to partake of the liberal provision 
supplied us by the father Antonio, and then continued 
our course along the hard and sandy beach to the Mis- 
sion. At length we reached an opening between the 
hills, through which we caught a first glimpse of the 
establishment ; and pushing our horses to a smart 
gallop, we soon arrived at its entrance. Several strag- 
ghng Indian boys were seen about the gates, and two 
or three approached as we alighted ; they said nothing, 
but stood gazing at the great staring eyes of friend 

G , which were considerably magnified through 

the spectacles he wore, till at last a sudden light seem- 
ed to break upon their dull comprehensions, and, with 
a cry of " Cuatro ojos," " cuatro ojos," (four eyes,) 
they darted away. This soubriquet we instantly 

adopted, and G was ever known throughout the 

whole coast by the nickname of " cuatro ojos." 

A corpulent old man received us at the door, who 
bade us welcome, and appeared delighted to see my 
companion, with whom he had formed an acquaintance 



28 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

in former years. It was the superintendent of the 
Mission, who, superannuated as he seemed, yet from 
long experience in the situation, was still capable of 
fulfilling the duties of his office ; he gave us a room 
within the square, where we proceeded to take posses- 
sion, and found the furniture, like the building, fast 
tumbling to decay. Two aged missionary friars resided 
here, but one alone attended to the temporal concerns 
of the Mission ; this was Padre Geronimo Boscana ; the 
other. Padre Jose Maria Zalveder, though at this time 
secluded, and apparently Aveak in mind, once took an 
active and laborious part in the management of the 
Missions. ,^This establishment was founded in the year 
1776, and, though in early years the largest in the 
country, yet is now in a dilapidated state, and the In- 
dians are much neglected. There yet remain the 
ruins of an immense church, which was destroj^ed by 
an earthquake in 1812, when many Indians Avere 
buried in its fall. It still bears the appearance of hav- 
ing been one of the best finished structures of the 
country, and the workmanship displayed in the sculp- 
ture upon its walls and its vaulted roof would com- 
mand admiration in our own country. 

The arrangement of the mission of St. Juan is sim- - 
ilar to that of St. Luis ; in fact, all these establishments 
are formed upon the same plan, and much resemble 
each other, varying only in their extent and population. 
In many of the villages the residences consist of straw 
huts of an oval form, which, when decayed, the Indi- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 



29 



ans set on fire and erect new ones — here, however, 
they are built of unburnt brick, tiled and whitewashed, 
forming five or six blocks, or streets, which present a 
neat and comfortable appearance. ^ 

It was not until evening (supper time) that we saw 
the padres, who were- then seated at the table, uncon- 
scious of our approach till announced by the old mayor- 
domo. Immediately they arose, embraced us, and wel- 
comed us to their hospitable board. During the meal 
our conversation turned on the political state of Europe, 
in regard to which they seemed to be very well inform- 
ed, and they found an absorbing topic in the prospect 
of Spanish influence in Mexico. 

The following morning we started for St. Gabriel, 
distant twenty leagues. As we proceeded, our course 
was through a long and narrow defile between the hills, 
having before us the high snow-capped mountains of 
St. Juan, till at length we left them on our right, and 
a short gallop soon brought us to an extensive plain. 
The road was level, and " Chulo," elated with the pros- 
pect of soon reaching the habitation of his " ladye- 
love," resumed his whistling and shouting ; *and 
dashing forward among the animals, drove (liem fu- 
riously along the track. We followed swiftly in his 
rear, our horses being unwilling to be left behind, 
and a few hours brought us to the farm or rancho de 
St. Ana. 

The proprietor, " Don Tomas Yorba," a tall, lean per- 
sonage, dressed in all the extravagance of his country's 



30 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

costume, received us at the door of his house. He came 
towards us, embraced G. and liis compadre Don Manuel, 
took me cordially by the hand, and invited us to enter. 
Arrangements were soon made for dinner, which, not- 
withstanding the haste with which it was served, did 
much credit to the provider, as did our appetites to its 
excellent quaUties. 

Don Tomas and friend G. then commencing a busi- 
ness conversation, I got up from the table and retreated 
to the corridor, where I could study, unobserved, the char- 
acter and appearance of our host. Upon his head he 
wore a black silk handkerchief, the four corners of which 
hung down his neck behind. An embroidered shirt, a 
cravat of white jaconet tastefully tied, a blue damask 
vest, short clothes of crimson velvet, a bright green cloth 
jacket, with large silver buttons, and shoes of embroidered 
deer skin, comprised his dress. I was afterwards inform- 
ed by Don Manuel, that on some occasions, such as some 
particular feast day or festival, his entire display often 
exceeded in value a thousand dollars. 

The day was wearing apace, so we hastened our de- 
parture, and mounted again for the journey. Don Tomas 
had prepared to accompany us to a river that crossed our 
route, which at some seasons of the year proved danger- 
ous to travellers unacquainted with the pass. This was 
a thoughtful precaution on his part, and received from us 
due acknowledgment. We rode along slowly through 
the sandy soil, till at length we saw the rapid stream, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 31 

which, by our friend's guidance, was easily forded, and 
he bade us farewell. 

The journey continued across a plain, where thousands 
of cattle were grazing ; and immense herds of wild hor- 
ses, which fled swiftly to the mountains on our approach. 
We soon reached the river of St. Gabriel, and having 
forded this stream, Don Manuel, who had accompanied 
us thus far from St. Diego, left us to pursue our journey 
alone to the Mission, which was now just in sight, whilst 
he proceeded for " El Pueblo de los Angeles," where his 
wife's family resided, and where he had for some time 
past made his permanent home. 

It was Saturday evening, and as we approached the 
buildings of the Mission, the chapel bells tolled the hour 
for prayer. Hundreds of Indians were kneeling upon the 
ground, and as the tolling ceased, they slowly rose to retire, 
and a merry peal announced the coming of the Sabbath. 

The director of St. Gabriel was father Jose Sanches, 
who for many years had controlled the establishment, 
which, through his management, had advanced to its 
present flourishing condition. Possessing a kind, gener- 
ous, and Uvely disposition, he had acquired, in conse- 
quence, a multitude of friends, who constantly flocked 
around him ; whilst through his liberality the needy 
wanderer, of whatever nation or creed, found a home 
and protection in the Mission. 

In the morning, at six o'clock, we went to the church, 
where the priest had already commenced the service of 
the mass. The imposing ceremony, glittering orna- 



32 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ments, and illuminated walls, were well adapted to cap- 
tivate the simple mind of the Indian, and I could not but 
admire the apparent devotion of the multitude, who seem- 
ed absorbed, heart and soul, in the scene before them. 
The solemn music of the mass was well selected, and the 
Indian voices accorded harmoniously with the flutes and 
violins that accompanied them. On retiring from the 
church, the musicians stationed themselves at a private 
door of the building, whence issued the reverend father, 
whom they escorted with music to his quarters ; there 
they remained for a half hour, performing waltzes and 
marches, until some trifling present was distributed among 
them, when they retired to their homes. 

xA.s is usual on all their " dias de fiesta," the remain- 
ing part of the Sabbath is devoted to amusements, and 
the Indian generally resorts to gambling, in which he 
indulges to the most criminal excess, frequently losing 
all he possesses in the world — his clothes — beads, baubles 
of all kinds, and even his wife and children ! We saw 
them thus engaged, scattered in groups about the Mis- 
sion, while at a little distance quite an exciting horse 
race was going on ; the Indians betting as wildly on their 
favorite animals as upon the games of chance, which 
found so many devotees. 
^ There are several extensive gardens attached to this 
Mission, where may be found oranges, citrons, limes, ap- 
ples, pears, peaches, pomegranates, figs, and grapes in 
abundance. From the latter they make yearly from four 
to six hundred barrels of wine, and two hundred of 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 33 

brandy ; the sale of whicli produces an income of more 
than twelve thousand dollars. The storehouses and 
granaries are kept well supplied, and the corridor in the 
square is usually heaped up with piles of hides and tal- 
low. Besides the resources of the vineyard, the Mission 
derives considerable revenue from the sale of grain ; and 
the weekly slaughter of cattle produces a sufficient sum 
for clothing and supporting the Indians. 

The two ^'' i^andios'^ of St. Bernadino and Sta. Anita 
are included in the possessions of the Mission ; the former 
of these has been assigned by the padres for the sole 
purpose of domesticating cattle, and is located some 
leagues distant, in a secluded valley among the moun- 
tains ; the latter is for cultivation, and is one of the fairy 
spots to be met with so often in California. On the 
declivity of a hill is erected a moUno, or grist-mill, sur- 
rounded with fruit trees and flowers. A beautiful lake 
lies calm and unruffled in front, and all around fresh 
streams are gushing from the earth, and scattering their 
waters in every direction. It would be a magnificent 
spot for a summer retreat, and much reminded me of 
many of the beautiful locations to be met with in the 
vicinity of Boston. 

The Mission of St. Gabriel was founded in the year 
1771, and its population, including the two ranchos be- 
fore mentioned, now numbered from twelve to fifteen 
hundred. It was thought at one time to possess from 
eighty to over a hundred thousand head of cattle, besides 
horses, mules, and sheep, and countless numbers which 



34 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

run at large. No advantage is derived from them be- 
yond the value of their hides and tallow, and thus thou- 
sands of dollars are yearly left to perish on the field. ^ 

While here, I met with a Yankee from the interior of 
New England, who had been a resident in the country 
for many years, and who had become, in manner and 
appearance, a complete Californian. One peculiarity, 
however, he retained — the spirit of trade, which had 
lost none of its original power, and to which I owed thus 
early my acquaintance with him. He was married, and 
living in Santa Barbara, where he was engaged in 
business in a small way, and learning that we were on 
our route up the coast, he had come all the way to meet 
us, in order to gain some trifling advantage over his com- 
petitors in trade. 

Our next destination, after concluding our business 
with father Sanches, was St. Fernando, situated only 
about eight leagues further up the coast. We accord- 
ingly set out, on being rejoined by Don Manuel and hi? 
" Sancho Panza," who once more took the lead, and we 
followed close in his rear. Our horses were in fine con- 
dition, and we arrived at the Mission in little more than 
three hours. The road generally was good, and the 
scenery for the first few leagues was a continuation of 
the beautiful grounds of Sta. Anita, with a fine view, on 
the right, of one of the ridges of the lofty Andes. 

St. Fernando was founded in the year 1797, and 
at this time was governed by the reverend father Fran- 
cisco Ybarra ; a short, thick, ugly-looking old man, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 35 

whose looks did not belie his character. In his own 
opinion no one knew so much as himself; nothing 
was so good as that whicli he possessed ; and, being 
at the head of his establishment, no one ever presum- 
ed to call his sentiments into question. The niggardly 
administration of this place, compared with the lib- 
erahty and profusion of the other missions we had 
visited, presented a complete contrast ; and the mean- 
ness and unpopularity of our host had gained for him 
the nickname of "cochino" or "hog." At supper I 
was amused at the economy displayed in the arrange- 
ment of his table, which seemed perfectly in accord- 
ance with the narrowness of his mind. A door, hing- 
ed at tlie bottom, which served to close a recess in the 
wall, used as a cupboard, was let down upon the occa- 
sion ; and on this was placed our repast. The di- 
mensions were only sufficient to admit of four persons 
comfortably seated ; and, when the number was larger, 
to accommodate them all, recourse was had to a dirty- 
looking bench which stood in one corner of the apart- 
ment. 

Distrustful of every one who wished to purchase 
his tallow or hides, he had accumulated an immense 
amount in his storehouses, where many of the latter 
had been destroyed by the length of time they had 
remained deposited. The tallow he had laid down 
in large, arched, stone vats, of sufficient capacity to con- 
tain several cargoes. 

In the morning we left, and pursued our course 



36 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

across the valley of St. FernandOj towards the glen of 
Cowwanga, and a short gallop over the hills brought 
us in sight of the " Pueblo de los Angeles," situated 
about three leagues from St. Gabriel, and about twen- 
ty miles from the bay of ^t. Pedro. The population 
of this town is about fifteen hundred ; and has an al- 
calde, two regidores, and a syndico, who compose its 
" Ayimtamientd'^ or Town Council. In the vicinity 
are many vineyards and corn-fields, and some fine 
gardens, crossed by beautiful streams of water. The 
lands being level and fertile, are capable of great agri- 
cultural improvement ; and several Americans, taking 
advantage of the resources of the place, are living 
here, having storehouses, and are engaged in business. 
After passing the night here, Ave resumed our journey 
to St. Pedro. The ride was over a long plain through 
the farm of Don Manuel, called " El rancho de Do- 
minguez," where we stopped a while to rest, and hav- 
ing taken a final leave of our friend, pursued our way 
to the beach. 

We found the ship at anchor, having performed the 
passage in three days and a half, and was then wait- 
ing our arrival. On board v^ere our friend Yorba, 
from Sta. Ana, the old mayordomo from St. Juan, 
and several others waiting for goods, whom we imme- 
diately despatched, and then made preparations for the 
numerous friends whom we expected to arrive in the 
morning. 

Having imprudently left St. Diego without pass- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 37 

ports, we found a letter from the " Comandante " of 
the place, reproving us for having presumed to travel 
in the country without these necessary documents. 
We met with no difficulty, however, on our route with- 
out them, which we attributed to the fact of our being 
" pretty well known upon the road, as the saying is." 
The necessity of procuring passports is not confined to 
foreigners alone, but also to the country people, who, 
when even going to their farms, or to the neighboring 
villages, are required to obtain permission from the 
authorities. The rigid performance of this custom, 
although oftentimes extremely inconvenient, still had 
its advantages ; inasmuch as the escape of a criminal 
was next to impossible, for he was most generally sure 
to be detected at the missions or outposts. 

The harbor of St. Pedro is an extensive bay, and, 
although not considered a safe anchorage during the 
winter months, when the southeast wind prevails, yet 
vessels frequently embark and discharge their cargoes 
here at all seasons of the year. The best anchorage 
is close under the northwest point of the bay, about 
three quarters of a mile outside of a small and rocky 
island ; and the same distance from the beach. There 
is a house at the landing-place which generally serves 
as a land-mark, in connection with the preceding loca- 
tions, and vessels usually, in the mild season of the 
year, bring this to bear W.N.W., whilst the point lies 
S.W. by S., and the island N.^E. From the month 
of October, till the beginning of May, vessels anchor at 

5 



38 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

least a mile outside of these bearings, and ships are 
necessarily prepared for slipping their cables, and get- 
ting under way, should the wind, as is often the case, 
chop in suddenly from the S.E. The holding ground 
is good ; of stiff mud, in four and a half to nine fath- 
oms. 

As we anticipated, our friends came in the morning, 
flocking on board from all quarters ; and soon a busy 
scene commenced, afloat and ashore. Boats were ply- 
ing to and fro — launches laden with the variety of our 
cargo passing to the beach, and men, women, and 
children crowding upon our decks, partaking in the 
general excitement. On shore all was confusion. 
Cattle and carts laden .with hides and tallow, " gente 
de razonj'' and Indians, busily employed in the de- 
livery of their produce, and receiving in return its 
value in goods ; groups of individuals seated around 
little bonfires upon the ground, and horsemen racing 
over the plain in every direction. Thus the day pass- 
ed ; some departing, some arriving ; till long after sun- 
set the low white road leading across the plain to the 
town, appeared a hving panorama. 

Due north from the place of anchorage is a narrow 
creek, communicating with a shallow basin, operated 
upon by the tides, where at this time thousands of 
hair-seal might be seen at low water, basking on the 
sand-banks. The channel here when at full flood has 
ten feet of water over the bar ; so that, in moderate 
weather, vessels drawing nine feet can easily pass over. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 39 

and anchor sufficiently near the shore to discharge 
their cargoes without the aid of launches. With very 
little expense it might be made a place of anchorage 
for large ships, either by digging out and deepening 
the present channel, or by closing up another outlet to 
the north of the island, which would bring the whole 
strength of the current through one passage, and thus 
wash away its sandy bottom. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Departure for Santa Barbara. — Arrival, — The Presidio. — Landing 
tlirough the Surf. — Friend Daniel. — A Ride on Muleback. — Visit to 
Dona Maria Antonia. — House of Friend Daniel. — Mission of Santa 
Barbara. — Female Costume. — Missions of St. Ynes and Purisima. — 
Rancho del Refugio. — St. Buenaventura. — Return to St. Diego.— 
House Blessing. — Fandango. 

Having collected in St. Pedro more produce than 
could be well received on board at that time, we resolv^- 
ed to deposite it in the storehouse on shore, while the 
ship proceeded to some of the northward ports. The 
anchor was weighed ; the vessel hauled on a wind, and 
stood over towards a low gap in the island of St. Cata- 
lina, and then back again to the main ; tacking off and 
on shore during the night, so that wlien daylight broke, 
we found ourselves betvv^een Point Dume and Point 
Conversion. The wind was very hght, hardly suffi- 
cient to keep steerage way ; but soon the sea breeze 
began to blow, and a cracking westerly wind enabled 
us during the day to beat up off the mission of St. 
Buenaventura. Here the shore is bold, and there is good 
anchorage for all classes of vessels ; but it is seldom 
visited on account of the high surf. The country as 
we proceeded northward assumed a more cultivated 



J 



.1 \ 

r, . 



.. 1 



f 







r 










i 




\ 


% 




. V 




.^ 


■^f 


^4 


■.'vw, v.. J 




-J 


'iMM-m- 


■■ ■ ' 


■■'^*mi 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 41 

and beautiful appearance; the hills, however, seemed 
bleak and barren, but the valleys presented the highest 
degree of fertiUty. From the mission, we stood over for 
some small and rocky islands at the southeast point of 
Sta. Cruz ; and on the following morning, close under 
our lee, we beheld the beautiful vale of Sta. Barbara. 

Seen from the ship, the "Presidio" or town, its 
charming vicinity, and neat httle Mission in the back- 
ground, all situated on an incUned plane, rising gradu- 
ally from the sea to a range of verdant hills, three 
miles from the beach, have a striking and beautiful 
effect. Distance, however, in this case, " lends en- 
chantment to the view," which a nearer approach some- 

. what dispels; for we found the houses of the town, of 
which there were some two hundred, in not very good 
condition. They are built in the Spanish mode, with 
adohe walls, and roofs of tile, and are scattered about 
outside of the mihtary department ; shewing a total 
disregard of order on the part of the authorities. A 
ridge of rugged highlands extends along the rear, 
reaching from St. Bonaventura to Point Conception, 
and on the left of the town, in an elevated position, 
stands the Castillo or fortress. 
The port of Santa Barbara is completely sheltered 

. from the northwest and westerly winds, but somewhat 
exposed to those from the southeast. The anchorage 
is hard sand, abounding in sea- weed, where the ship 

^q&me to, in six and a half fathoms. The sails were furl- 

\ 5* 



42 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ed, the boat lowered and manned, and we proceeded to 
the shore. 

A heavy westerly wind during the night had " knock- 
ed up" considerable swell, which continued to roll in and 
fall heavily upon the sand. Our men pulled lustily till 
ordered to lay upon their oars, when we effected our land- 
ing. In approaching the shore through the surf, more 
depends upon the judgment of the person steering the 
boat than upon the rowers. Usually, there are three 
consecutive rolls, and then follows a temporary recession ; 
and to land safely, it is necessary to proceed with caution, 
wait an opportunity by observing the swell ; pull in 
strong on a third roller, and the moment the boat strikes 
the sand, the oars should be cast on either side, while 
the men jump out and prevent her being carried back by 
the retiring surf 

At the landing we found our Yankee friend Danie 

H , and a few others who had come down to greei 

G . As the town was three quarters of a mil^ 

distant, I accepted Daniel's offer of his fine saddled mule 
and he getting up behind me, we rode along slowly, un^ 
til we reached a small descent, where flowed a streai 
which recent rains had swollen beyond its usual bounds!' 
Here the stubborn animal stopped, and seemed disincli- 
ned to proceed, but repeated application of the spurs at 
last urged him forward, and he forded the stream. As- 
cending the opposite bank, he again stopped, and giving 
a sudden fling in the air with his heels, sent us both 
rolling down towards the water. Fortunately we were 



i 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 43 

neither wet nor hurt, but after so decided a manifesta- 
tion of the creature's abihties, I decUned remounting. 
Daniel, however, nowise disconcerted, mounted the beast 
and rode off alone. 

As was requisite, we first visited the Commandant, in 
order to leave with him the ship's roll. This is a com- 
pUance exacted from all vessels arriving at ports in Cali- 
fornia, and usually their captains are obHged to deliver 
their documents in person. 

The most stately house in the place at this time was 
that of the diputado to Mexico, Don Jose de la Guerra 
y Noriega. G having in his possession some pres- 
ents for the family, we proceeded thither at once. Here 
we partook of chocolate Avith the lady of the house, 
Dona Maria Antonia, whilst her daughters eagerly dis- 
tributed the several gifts. The old lady, a fine, mother- 
ly, good woman, had acquired by her deportment and 
affectionate manner toward strangers the esteem of all 
who knew her. Her father was an officer in the royal 
command, previous to the success of republicanism in 
Mexico, and her brothers, all but one, were then officers 
in the army. An American lady once observed to me, 
that there were in California two things supremely good, 
La Senora Noriega, and grapes ! 

During the afternoon, we visited the house of our 
friend Daniel. He was standing at the door anxiously 
awaiting our approach ; and two or three children were 
playing in the corridor before him. As we drew near, 
the little ones retired, and chairs were brought outside, 



44 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

that we might enjoy the fresh air. Here we were to 
remain for the night, and arrangements were made ac- 
cordingly. Supper was soon announced, when we had 
the pleasure of seeing the lady of the house, a fine 
healthy-looking female, with splendid eyes and beauti- 
ful black hair ; but she said but little, and soon retired 
with her children. 

The Presidio of Santa Barbara consists of a large 
square of buildings, surrounded by high walls, in plan 
similar to that of St. Diego, and contains a chapel, cem- 
etery, prison, and storehouses. The Commandant, Don 
Romualdo Pacheco, is a Mexican, who came to the 
country in the 3^ear 1825, with the present Governor, 
Echandia. The number of men garrisoned under his 
command does not exceed forty. 

In the morning we v/alked to the mission, distant 
from the town about half a league. The road was 
pleasant, through scattered oaks ; and groups of cattle 
were seen grazing upon the grassy plains. On the 
right were spacious wheat fields ; at length, through a 
narrow way, amid immense rocks scattered over the 
ground, we reached the estabhshment. The stone 
church, with its two towers and extensive wing, its 
artificial clock, tiled roofs, arched corridor, and majes- 
tic fountain, was before us. On the right were various 
buildings for superintendents, a guard-house, tannery, 
and a dilapidated grist-mill ; on the left, the spacious 
garden, with its fruit trees and flowers, and several rows 
of low buildings. Father Antonio Jimeno, the mission- 



11 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 45 

ary, received us in a small but tastefully arranged 
apartment ; the floor of which was of colored cement, 
and the walls painted and hung round with pictures 
of saints. Two or three sofas, a long table and book- 
case, comprised its furniture. He welcomed us kindly, 
and after a short conversation, we walked into the 
^'"patioj^ or square, where carpenters, saddlers, and 
shoemakers were at work, and young girls spinning 
and preparing wool for the loom. We next entered 
the vestry, which was carpeted and hung round with 
looking-glasses and fine paintings. Adjoining this 
was a small, but convenient dressing-room, where were 
arranged the numerous dresses and ornaments used in 
the church services, some of them rich and of the most 
costly description. From this, a door led into the 
church, where we beheld a gorgeous display of ban- 
ners, paintings, images, and crucifixes of gold and sil- 
ver. The musicians attached to the choir were prac- 
tising, and played some very fine airs ; rather unsuita- 
ble, however, to the place. It was not unusual, both 
there and at the churches of other missions, to hear 
during the mass the most lively dancing tunes. An- 
other door of the church opened upon the cemetery, 
where were buried the deceased Christians of the Mis- 
sion and Presidio, surrounded by a thick wall, and 
having in one corner the charnel house, crowded with 
a ghastly array of skulls and bones. 

In the rear, from a sHght elevation, might be seen 
large fields of wheat and corn ; and the little' valleys 



46 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

among the hills, filled with fruit and vegetable gardens. 
A foaming stream rushes down the mountain, from 
which is carried in an open aqueduct along the brow 
of the hill, a supply of water for a spacious reservoir of 
beautiful masonry. 

We returned to town, and at the beach found a Uvely 
and busy scene. Our men were passing through the 
surf to the launch bearing hides upon their heads, 
while others landed, from smaller boats, portions of the 
ship's cargo. It was a merry sight, and their shouts 
mingled with the sound of the waves as they beat upon 
the sand. We embarked on board ship, where soon our 
decks were crowded with men and w^omen of all classes ; 
many coming to purchase, some to see the vessel, and 
others to accompany their friends, so that it was not 
unusual for us to have a party of twenty or thirty at 
dinner. 

The dress worn by the middling class of females is 
a chemise with short embroidered sleeves, richly trim- 
med with lace, a muslin petticoat flounced with scarlet, 
and secured at the waist by a silk band of the same 
color, shoes of velvet or blue satin, a cotton rehoso or 
scarf, pearl necklace and ear-rings, with the hair fall- 
ing in broad plaits down the back. Others of the 
higher class dress in the English style, and instead of 
the rehoso substitute a rich and costly shawl of silk or 
satin. There is something graceful in the manage- 
ment of the rehoso that the natives alone can impart, 



i 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 47 

and the perfect nonchalance with which it is thrown 
about them and worn, adds greatly to its beauty. 

Very few of the men have adopted our mode of 
dress, the greater part adhering to the ancient costume 
of the past century. Short clothes, and jacket trimmed 
with scarlet, a silk sash about the waist, hotas of orna- 
mented and embroidered deer skin, secured by colored 
garters, embroidered shoes, the hair long, braided and 
fastened behind with ribbons, a black silk handkerchief 
around the head, surmounted by an oval and broad- 
brimmed hat, is the dress universally worn by the men 
of California. 

The following morning, intending to visit the north- 
ern missions of Santa Ynes and Purissima, we started off 
about eight o'clock accompanied by our friend Daniel. 
We rode through a woody pass, crossed a small plain 
and many hills, till we at length reached a place called, 
from tlie innumerable bogs and quagmires with which 
it abounds, " Las Cenegitas ;" yet we found here several 
gardens and two or three fine maize fields. Continu- 
ing our course from this place, nearly parallel w4th the 
coast; passing several small farms attached to the Mis- 
sion, and many pleasant little valleys, through which 
rivulets flowed down to the sea; a ride of about two 
hours and a half brought us to the " Rancho del Refu- 
gio," generally termed " Ortega Farm." It consisted 
of three or four laigc buildings, several gardens or vine- 
yards, and a few fields of corn, wheat, and beans. 
Daniel informed me it was once a large place, and, un- 



48 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

der the supervision of its proprietor, Don Jose Maria 
Ortegii, appeared like a little mission ; but that in the 
year 1819 it was visited by a piratical vessel, under the 
command of Buchard, who nearly destroyed it, since 
when it has never regained its once flourishing condi- 
tion. 

Here commences the Ciiesta or pass across the 
mountains. It is a winding road, in many places only 
of sufficient width for one animal to pass, and almost 
blocked up with loose stones. From the level summit 
to which we slowly ascended, we had on one side an 
extensive view of the shore from Point Conception to 
Santa Barbara, comprising more than sixty miles of 
sea-coast, and on the other a fine open country covered 
with woods and abounding in excellent pasturage. Here 
we rested a few moments to give our animals breath, 
and then commenced our gradual descent. This we 
found even more tedious, and oftentimes, from the im- 
mense numbers of worn rocks and loose stones, more 
dangerous than had been our ascent. We accomplished 
the task, however, and soon beheld, upon a distant ele- 
vation, the Mission of Santa Ynes. The fording of a 
river and a short gallop soon brought us to its door. 

This Mission, founded in 1797, was governed by 
Father Bias Ordas, who received us with the accus- 
tomed cordiality of his hospitable order. The building 
we found much like that of Santa Barbara, differing 
only in the appearance of the church and the cleanli- 
ness of its apartments. In front was a large brick en- 



r#v^-v 



1^ 




LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 49 

closure where the females bathed and washed ; to the 
right the gardens, filled with choice fruit trees, and on 
the left a few clusters of Indian huts and tiled houses. 
The storehouses were well stocked with grain, and the 
domesticated cattle numbered nearly nine thousand. 

In the morning we rode over to the Purissima, where 
we found two reverend friars, Fathers Victoria and 
Juan Moreno. This mission was originally established 
in 1787, at a place now known as " La Mision Vieja ;" 
but has since been rebuilt in its present location, and 
though possessing abundant wealth, in cattle and plant- 
ing grounds, yet it has been much neglected, and the 
Indians generally are ill clothed, and seem in the most 
abject condition. We remained here but a short time, 
and returning to Santa Ynes, slept there that night, 
and the next day reached the ship. 

The morning after, we set out on an excursion to St. 
Buenaventura. The road thither is partly over the hard 
sandy beach, and at times, when the tide is low, it is 
possible to perform the whole journey over this smooth 
level. We were not over two hours on the road, and 
arrived before dinner, finding the reverend father Fran- 
cisco Uria closely wrapped up in his studies, in his sit- 
ting apartment. He was the Padre of the Mission 
which was founded in 1782, and which is situated near 
the sea-shore, at the entrance of a valley leading into 
the interior among the mountains. It possesses about 
six thousand cattle and some splendid locations for cul- 
tivation. Besides the church attached to the main 

G 



50 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

building, there is a small chapel towards the beach, in 
which mass is at no time performed except on extra- 
ordinary occasions. 

At dinner the fare was sumptuous, and I was much 
amused at the eccentricity of the old Padre, who kept 
constantly annoying four large cats, his daily compan- 
ions ; or with a long stick thumped upon the heads of 
his Indian boys, and seemed dehghted thus to gratify 
his singular propensities. 

After concluding our meal, we walked with him to 
the garden, where we found a fine fountain of excel- 
lent water, and an abundance of fruits and vegetables. 
In their proper seasons they have apples, pears, peaches, 
pomegranates, tunas or prickly pears, and grapes. 
Along the margin of the river St. Buenaventura are 
many small gardens belonging to the Indians, where 
they raise fruit and vegetables, which are taken to the 
town and disposed of. The whale ships that touch at 
Sta. Barbara are from them frequently supplied with 
provisions. The small streams in the vicinity abound 
with fish, and salmon of excellent quality are some- 
times taken in the river. 

In the morning we departed early, for the town, 
where, on our arrival, the ship Avas immediately pre- 
pared for her return South. The wind was favorable ; 
the passage short ; and, twenty-four hours after weigh- 
ing anchor at Sta. Barbara, it was cast a second time 
in the bay of St. Pedro. Here we embarked the hides 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 51 

and tallow we had deposited, and then proceeded for 
the port of St. Diego. 

The ship arrived there after a passage of two days, 
came to, and was anchored within pistol-shot of .the 
shore, immediately opposite the storehouse, so as to be 
conveniently located for landing hides. Then com- 
menced a busy scene. Boat after boat, launch after 
launch was laden and discharged on the beach, where 
men were stationed to receive and pile them upon large 
spars for protection from the dampness of the ground ; 
some secured together by ropes were placed at low 
water-mark to soak, and two large vats which had 
been made by the carpenter during our absence, were 
filled A^dth sea-water, into which large quantities of salt 
Avas thrown to increase its strength for a second im- 
mersion w^hich the hides underwent to prepare them 
for shipping. 

Senor Bandini had his house bendecida, or blessed, 
during our stay here, and G. and myself were invited 
to attend. The General, his officers, with many friends 
and their families, were present. The ceremony took 
place at noon, when the chaplain proceeded through 
the different apartments, sprinkUng holy water upon 
the walls, and uttering verses in Latin. This con- 
cluded, we sat down to an excellent dinner, consisting 
of all the luxuries the place afforded, provided in Don 
Juan's best style. As soon as the cloth was removed, 
the guitar and viohn were put in requisition, and a 
dance began. It lasted, however, but a httle while, for 



52 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

it was necessary for them to spare their exertions for 
the evening fandango. So 'poco a poco^ all gradually 
retired to their homes. 

At an early hour the different passages leading to 
the house were enlivened with men, women, and chil- 
dren, hurrying to •the dance ; for on such occasions it 
was customary for every body to attend without wait- 
ing for the formality of an invitation. A crowd of 
leperos was collected about the door when we arrived, 
now and then giving its shouts of approbation tg the 
performances within, and it was with some difficulty 
we forced our entrance. Two persons were upon the 
floor dancing " el jarabe." They kept time to the 
music, by drumming with their feet, on the heel and 
toe system, with such precision, that the sound struck 
harmoniously upon the ear, and the admirable execu- 
tion would not have done injustice to a pair of drum- 
sticks in the hands of an able professor. The attitude 
of tlie female dancer was erect, with her head a little 
inclined to the right shoulder, as she modestly cast lier 
eyes to the floor, whilst her hands gracefully held the 
skirts of her dress, suspending it above the ankle so as 
to expose to the company the execution of her feet. 
Her partner, who might have been one of the interlo- 
pers at tlie door, was under full speed of locomotion, 
and rattled away with his feet with wonderful dexter- 
ity. His arms were thrown carelessly behind his back, 
and secured, as they crossed, the points of liis serape, 
that still held its place upon his shoulders. Neither 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 53 

had he doffed his "sombrero," but just as he stood 
when gazing from the crowd, he had placed himself 
upon the floor. 

The conchision of this performance gave us an oppor- 
tunity to edge our way along towards the extremity of 
the room, where a door communicated with an inner 
apartment. Here we placed ourselves, to witness in a 
more favorable position the amusements of the evening. 
The room was about fifty feet in length, and twenty 
wide, modestly furnished, and its sides crowded with 
smiling faces. Upon the floor were accommodated the 
children and Indian girls, Avho, close under the vigilance 
of their parents and mistresses, took part in the scene. 
The musicians again commencing a lively tune, one of 
the managers approached the nearest female, and, clap- 
ping his hands in accompaniment to the music, succeed- 
ed in bringing lier into the centre of the room. Here 
she remained a while, gently tapping with her feet upon 
the floor, and then giving two or three whirls, skipped 
away to her seat. Another was clapped out, and an- 
otlier, till the manager had passed the compliment 
throughout the room. This is called a soji^ and there is 
a custom among the men, when a dancer proves partic- 
ularly attractive to any one, to place his hat upon her 
head, while she stands thus in the middle of the room, 
which she retains until redeemed by its owner, with 
some trifling present. During the performance of the 
dances, three or four male voices occasionally take part in 
the music, and towards the end of the evening, from re- 

6* 



54 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

peated applications of aguardiente^ they become quite 
boisterous and discordant. 

The waltz was now introduced, and ten or a dozen 
couple whirled gaily around the room, and heightened 
the charms of the dance b)^ the introduction of numerous 
and interesting figures. Between the dances, refresh- 
ments were handed to the ladies, whilst in an adjoining 
apartment, a table was prepared for the males, who par- 
took without ceremony. The most interesting of all 
their dances is the contra danza^ and this, also, may be 
considered the most graceful. Its figures are intricate, 
and in connection with the waltz, form a charming com- 
bination. These fandangos usually hold out till day- 
light, and at intervals the people at the door are permit- 
ted to introduce theixjarahes and jotas. 

G and myself retired early, and in the morning 

hastened to the beach. Ten days had now elapsed 
since our departure from St. Pedro, and we were at last 
reaay for sea. The launch was hoisted in, the ship 
unmoored, and the day appointed for our departure, 
which was to be the following. 



CHAPTER V, 

Departure for San Francisco. — Farallones Islands. — Yerba Buena. — 
Coinandante. — The Presidio. — Journey to Santa Clara. — Mission 
of Dolores. — Rancho de las Pulgas. — Mission of Santa Clara. — San 
Francisco. — Departure for Monterey and Santa Barbara. — Journey 
to San Pedro. — Ride by Moonlight.— Tiburcio Tapia. 

At noon the Commandant made his appearance on 
board with the ship's roll, and we got under wa}^ and 
stood out of the bay till well clear of the shoal, off Point 
Loma, where we hauled to the wind, and stood off to 
the west. Unfavorable weather carried us much out 
of our course, and it was with difficulty that we could 
make a northerly direction, so that twenty-two da3^s 
elapsed ere we had obtained our point of latitude. Final- 
ly, we saw the rocks called the Farallones^ bearing 
northeast, distant from us eight or nine miles. We 
soon passed the largest and southernmost one, which 
was still occupied by the Russians ; and could distinct- 
ly perceive among the huts ten or twelve persons, who 
were Uving there for the purpose of catching fur seal, 
which were so abundant in former years, that my friend 

G assured me he had assisted in collecting during 

one season, over eighty thousand skins from this same 
island. Four or five hours more brought us to the 



56 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

entrance of the port of St. Francisco, but as it was then 
quite dark, I could not discern the appearance of the 
land. As we passed the castle point, the water became 
less acted upon by the ocean's swell, and the only ripple,, 
visible, was caused by the course of our ship, as she 
drew near her place of anchorage. Leaving the Pre- 
sidio on our right, we continued our course for Yerba 
Buena, where we came to, in six and a half fathoms. 

When morning came, I found we were in a small 
bay, close to the shore ; on one side of which were steep 
rocks, and on the other a smooth sandy beach. Out- 
side of us was the island of Yerba Buena, and beyond 
this, on the other side of the bay of St. Francisco, the 
highlands of St. Antonio. At ten o'clock we were visit- 
ed by the Commandant, Don Ignacio Martinez, who 
remained to dine; a Mexican by birth, though more 
of a Spaniard in feeling. In his conversation, it would 
have been difficult for a stranger to designate his na- 
tion, for having learned a few v/ords in English, Rus- 
sian, and French, he had formed a jargon which no one 
could understand but himself. As soon as dinner was 
over, we accompanied him to his house. It was a short 
ride over the hill, in the direction of the Castillo^ or fort. 
We soon caught a glimpse of the low buildings, with 
their dark tiled roofs, resembling prisons more than 
dwelling houses, and the residence of our Commandant 
was the most conspicuous amongst them. This was 
the Presidio. In its plan, it is similar to those already 
described, but is in a most ruinous state. There are 



A 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 57 

a few framed houses scattered about outside the square, 
and a short distance beyond, upon the extreme point of 
the httle bay, is the fort, which, on account of its eleva- 
ted position, is used as a " look-out place." 

In the morning, G went to the Mission of Dolores 

to visit the padre, and engage horses for our contempla- 
ted journey to Santa Clara, and returned on board in 
the afternoon. On the following day, at an early hour, 
our animals were on the beach, in charge of a vaquero^ 
who was sent to accompany us as guide in the journey. 
This was an accommodation universal with all the good 
old friars, for which they accepted no compensation. 
We mounted speedily, and commenced our route 
through a dense thicket, where the path was narrow, 
and where the trees so intersected their branches, as to 
endanger our heads as we rode along. Thus we went 
on ; sometimes crossing little valleys, where the fox-like 
coyote prowled, and sometimes rising sandy eminences, 
where a ghmpse was had of the neighboring bay. 
Through the woods resounded the wolfs howl, and the 
heavy track of the grizzly bear lay printed in our course. 
At length, through an opening in the woods, we saw the 
Mission of Dolores. Its dilapidated walls, and dark 
tiled roof, well accorded with the bleak and cheerless 
scenery with which it was surrounded; for the cold, 
blustering sea winds, as they sweep over the hills, chill 
and (festroy vegetation. As we approached the building, 
we saw in the long corridor the old friar and his mayor- 
do7?io, to whom he appeared to be giving some directions, 



58 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

for the latter, hat in hand, attentively hstened. Some 
Indians were employed in throwing out hides from one 
end of the building, and he was evidently giving orders 
for their transportation to the beach. " Como les van 
amigos? pasan vmds.^^ — "How are you, friends? 
walk in," he shouted, at the top of his voice, as we en- 
tered the hospitable mission, and his extended hand 
was warmly closed on mine, in earnest of the sincerity 
of his invitation. 

After a short conversation we remounted our horses 
and proceeded on our route for Sta. Clara. The first 
two or three leagues of the journey were over a succes- 
sion of hills and small valleys, where the strong wester- 
ly gales came with such force that the progress of our 
horses was somewhat impeded, in consequence of the 
violent effect of the wind on the large leather trappings 
attached to our saddle-gear. We passed on the road a 
large inclosure, called El potrero^ used for the rearing 
of horses, the walls of which were of loose stones, piled 
up to the height of about four feet. 

Passing this, we opened upon the grazing grounds of 
the Mission, where thousands of cattle were scattered 
about in herds. On our right, the land was elevated, 
and as it continued in the distance, its top was covered 
with pines. To the left, lay the smooth and spacious 
bay, extending in a southeast direcrtion, full thirty miles 
from the ship's place of anchorage, bounded on the op- 
posite side by the highlands of St. Leandro and St. 
Jose. Our ride was charming, and now and then a 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 59 

distant farm-house, or Indian hut, with its Uttle garden, 
would come in sight; and numerous rivulets winding 
their way towards the bay, adding much to the pic- 
turesqueness of the scene. A few leagues brought us 
to the sheep-farm of St. Mateo, situated in the midst 
of a small wood. The building, occupied by the mayor- 
domo and servants, is spacious and covered with burnt 
tiles. Here we aUghted, and, after a short rest, re- 
mounted and resumed our journey. " El Rancho de 
las pulgas" was the next place of any importance in 
our route, and is situated a little retired from the road, 
at the foot of a small rising ground. It is the property 
of Dona Soledad Ortega, widow of Don Luis Arguello, 
formerly governor of California. I found her a beauti- 
ful woman, and the mother of three or four fine chil- 
dren. She Avas very lady-like in her manner, and 
treated us with the utmost courtesy. After dinner, we 
bade her adieu, and again proceeded on our way, which 
was uninterrupted, till, far distant in the centre of a 
spacious plain, we beheld Santa Clara and its nume- 
rous buildings. 

It was three o'clock when we arrived at this Mission, 
having performed the journey of eighteen leagues in 
about eight hours. Father Jose Yiader was director 
of the establishment ; a good old man, whose heart 
and soul were in proportion to his immense figure. This 
institution was founded in the year 1777, and formerly 
stood a few rods beyond its present location. Like the 
other Missions in the neighborhood of St. Francisco, 



60 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

its resources were immensej from the annual production 
of grain ; and, possessing large stocks of cattle, it was 
enabled to make liberal " matanzas," of which, the 
abundant proceeds were usually heaped up, under the 
corridor in the square of the main building. A large 
garden of choice fruit-trees adorned its right, whilst 
another of greater magnitude occupied a space in front. 
The hills of St. Jose were visible beyond, and betwixt 
the trees that covered the plain we obtained a distant 
view of the town of that name. 

Our stay of several weeks in the neighborhood gave 
ample time for observation, and I had various opportu- 
nities to visit among the inhabitants, from whom I 
received great kindness and hospitality. Business re- 
quired several trips to and from the ship, which were 
performed sometimes on horseback, and sometimes by 
means of a launch belonging to the Mission of Dolores. 
The latter mode of conveyance was preferable by far, 
and the more expeditious when aided by the tides, 
which here rise and fall some five or six feet. 

San Francisco has one of the largest and most valu- 
able harbors in the world. Nature has so defended 
its narrow entrance, that with but little expense it might 
be made perfectly impregnable. Its steep and lofty 
chffsjon either side, combined with other prominent lo- 
cations within, might be so fortified as to bid defiance 
to the most powerful and determined foe. The sound- 
ings are deep, and, in mid-channel, may be found in 
from forty to forty-five fathoms. The course for vessels 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 61 

coming in from sea, is generally midway between the 
bluff points of land. 

There are five missionary establishments located 
upon the sides of the bay, called the Missions of Dolores, 
Santa Clara, St. Jose, St. Francisco Solano, and St. 
Rafael. These have a population of over five thousand 
Indians, and only about two hundred whites. The 
whole number of cattle, domesticated, is more than forty 
thousand, exclusive of horses, mules, and sheep. The 
rivers and creeks are supplied with an abundance of 
salmon and other fish ; game is plentiful, and bears, 
wildcats, wolves, and *coyotes, are often met with. On 
the northern side of the bay are found the American 
elk and antelope, and great quantities of deer ; the first 
of these is hunted for its tallow, which is preferred to 
that taken from bullocks. The islands and neighbor- 
ing lands afford abundance of wood and timber. The 
soil is excellent, and perhaps in no part of the world 
more yielding, particularly for wheat ; as an instance 
of its immense fertihty in this respect, the following 
circumstance was related to me by the mayordomo of 
the mission of St. Jose. Eight fanegas, equal to twelve 
bushels of wheat, were sowed, which yielded twelve 
hundred fanegas or eighteen hundred bushels ; the fol- 
lowing year, from the grain which fell at the time of 
the first harvest, over one thousand bushels were reap- 
ed ; and again in the succeeding year three hmidred 
bushels. The average production of wheat is one hun- 
dred fanegas for one sowed. In many parts of the 

7 



62 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

country irrigation is necessary, but here, owing to the 
heavy dews which fall at night, the eartii becomes suf- 
ficiently moistened for cultivation. 

Having accomplished our business for the present at 
St. Francisco, we got under way and proceeded along 
the coast to Monterey. During the niglit a strong cur- 
rent swept us down below Point Pinos, so that we did 
not arrive till the third day after our departure. We 
found at Monterey two new comers ; an American 
schooner from the Sandwich Islands, and a Mexican 
vessel belonging to Don Jose de la Guerra y Noriega, 
late " diputado" to Mexico, who had just returned after 
an absence of two years. He brought with him, as 
passengers, two American gentlemen who had received 
large grants of land from the general government, and 
had come to the country for the purpose of making ar- 
rangements for colonization. 

Remaining here but a short time, we continued our 
voyage to Santa Barbara, where we arrived after a pro- 
tracted passage; the same strong current from the 
north having carried the ship a second time beyond 
her port of destination. Here we left the ship for a 
short excursion across the country, proposing to meet 
her again at St. Pedro, arid starting early in the morn- 
ing, arrived about noon at the mission of St. Buenaven- 
tura, where we remained till evening, and then resumed 
our journey upon the same horses. A fine moon had 
risen just as we set out, and so briUiantly was the whole 
country hghted up, that our way lay before us as clearly 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 63 

as at noonday. The clear heavens ; the bright moon j 
the beautiful country strdlching far away into the blue 
distance, and basking in the moonlight ; the deep si- 
lence, unbroken save by the footfalls of our horses, or the 
cries of some wild night-bird ; all formed a scene of 
such rare beauty, that the impression still lingers in my 
memory. At midnight we reached the "Rancho de 
Simi," some fourteen leagues from the Mission. The 
good people who inhabited this lonely spot w^e found 
were fast locked in sleep, so that we were obliged tp 
take up our quarters upon the ground, in the open air. 
The " mochillas" and " armas" attached to our sad- 
dle gear were spread for a bed, to secure our bodies 
against the dampness of the earth, whilst our " serapes" 
served as coverlets, and our saddles as pillows. We 
slept soundly in spite of the rudeness of our beds, and 
awaking at daylight much refreshed, pushed on for Los 
Angeles, which we reached at noon. We stopped at 
the house of Don Tiburcio Tapia, the " Alcalde Con- 
stitucional" of the town, once a soldier in very moderate 
circumstances, but who by honest and industrious labor 
had amassed so much of this world's goods, as to make 
him one of the wealthiest inhabitants of the place. His 
strict integrity gave him credit to any amount, so that 
he was the principal merchant, and the only native one 
in El Pueblo de los Angeles. A short ride brought us 
to the beach at St. Pedro, where we embarked for St. 
Diego. The ship was soon under sail, and forty-eight 
hours' run brought us to our place of anchorage. 



64 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

The consequent bustle of disembarkation commenced. 
The hides were landed, tallow bags whitewashed, ship 
smoked, and every thing again prepared for her depart- 
ure. During her trip to the northward I was to re- 
main a resident at St. Diego, and quantities of goods 
were landed, and a store fitted up in the house of tlie 
mother of our old friend Don Manuel Dominguez. 
The day for the ship's departure arrived. I bade adieu 

to G , and proceeded to take charge of my future 

occupation and residence. 




CHAPTER VI. 

Residence in St. Diego. — Practice of Medicine. — Evening's Amuse- 
ments. — Pastores. — La Noche Buena. — Insurrection in the North. — 
Departure of Echeandia and his Troops. — Defeat of the Rebels. — 
" Hide Park." — Hide Stealing. — Embarkation. — Pueblo de San Jose. 
— Its Inhabitants. — Mission of San Jose. — Pddre Narciso Duran. — Per- 
ilous Adventure in a Boat. — Sailing out of San Francisco. — Journey 
from Monterey to Santa Barbara. — Buena Vista. — La Soledad. — San 
Antonio. — San Miguel. — Hot Springs. — Santa Margarita. — St. Luis 
Obispo. — Guadaloupe. — Matanzas. — A Chance Shot. — Landing Car- 
go at Santa Barbara. — New Residence on Shore. 

The family in which I now resided at St. Diego 
consisted of the old lady Dominguez, Don Jose Anto- 
nio Estudillo and his wife, Doiia Victoria, with two 
children, and three servants. My first week's residence 
proved rather dull, and I found it necessary to make 
frequent hunting excursions in the neighborhood, with 
an occasional ride to our depot at " Hide Park," in or- 
der to wear away the time, and break up the monotony 
of our little village. 

My new lodgings unfortunately had no direct com- 
munication with the street, except by a small win- 
dow, so that my customers were compelled to pass 
through the sala^ and a sleeping apartment, ere they 
could get access to my place of business. On the third 

7* 




66 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

or fourth night I was aroused by a rap at the httle win- 
dow and requested by an old woman to go with her 
and prescribe for her daughter, who was taken sud- 
denly ill and was suffering most violent pain. Fear- 
ful of exposing myself to the night air and endangering 
the safety of the property under my charge through 
such indiscretion, I concluded not to accompany her, 
but advised her to give her daughter a few drops of 
laudanum. She then left me, but on the following 
morning returned to express her thanks for the won- 
derful cure I had so accidentally performed. This was 
enough to establish my fame as a medico throughout 
the town, and had I been so inclined I might (by pro- 
viding the medicine) have become quite a proficient in 
the art of killing. 

There are no physicians in the country, and every 
foreigner is supposed to possess some knowledge of the 
practice of medicine. I recollect a circumstance which 
will serve to illustrate the fact. One of our sailors, who 
had absconded from the ship at one of the neighboring 
ports, found his way to Santa Barbara and set himself 
up as a doctor. It was not difficult to impose upon the 
poor credulous creatures of the lower class, and thus he 
managed to get as much liquor as he wanted during 
his stay by administering his remedies in " agiiardien- 
^e," of which he partook freely, himself, to prove their 
simplicity. 

In a short time I became acquainted with many of 
the inhabitants of the place, whose frequent visits to 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 67 

the house estabhshed between us a famiharity which 
resulted in many a pleasant pastime. Sefior Lugo was 
one who nightly made his appearance, and amused us 
by his stories and eccentricities. One evening he came 
prepared to play off a practical joke upon me. He had 
loaded a paper cigar with gunpowder and placed it 
amongst his cigarros. During his visit he repeatedly 
asked me to smoke, but I fortunately missed the one he 
prepared, until finally, from the lateness of the hour, he 
withdrew. In the course of the night, after retiring, he 
awoke, and feeling a desire to smoke, selected from his 
bundle, quite forgetful of the evening's amusement^ 
the very cigar he had prepared for me. Having lighted 
it, he returned to bed and extended himself by the side 
of his fair esposa. The cigar was about half consumed 
and he more than half asleep, when a sudden explo- 
sion carried away the better part of his' moustache, and 
so thoroughly frightened his poor wife, that I venture 
to say the event will never be forgotten. 

Don Jose Antonio w^as equally amusing in his char- 
acter, and was ever on the alert seeking for some new 
device for my gratification. It was nearly time for the 
religious festival of " la noche buena," and he directed 
the customary exhibition of the ^'^ pastor es.'''' They 
were rehearsing night after night, till at length Christ- 
mas arrived, and I had an opportunity of beholding the 
ceremony of midnight mass and the subsequent per- 
formances. 

At an early hour illuminations commenced, fire- 



68 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

works were set off, and all was rejoicing. The church 
bells rang merrily, and long before the time of mass the 
pathways leading to the Presidio were enlivened by 
crowds hurrying to devotion. I accompanied Don Jose 
Antonio, who procured for me a stand where I could 
see distinctly everything that took place. The mass 
commenced. Padre Vicente de Oliva officiated, and at 
the conclusion of the mysterious " sacrificio " he pro- 
duced a small image representing the infant Saviour, 
which he held in his hands for all who chose to ap- 
proach and kiss. After this, the tinkling of the guitar 
was heard without, the body of the church was cleared, 
and. immediately commenced the harmonious sounds 
of a choir of voices. The characters entered in proces- 
sion, adorned with appropriate costume, and bearing 
banners. There were six females representing shep- 
herdesses, three men and a boy. One of the men per- 
sonated Lucifer, one a hermit, and the other Bartolo, 
a lazy vagabond, whilst the boy represented the arch- 
angel Gabriel. The story of their performance is par- 
tially drawn from the Bible, and commences with the 
angel's appearance to the shepherds, his account of the 
birth of our Saviour, and exhortation to them to repair 
to the scene of the manger. Lucifer appears among 
them, and endeavors to prevent the prosecution of their 
journey. His influence and temptations are about to 
succeed, when Gabriel again appears and frustrates their 
effect. A dialogue is then carried on of considerable 
length relative to the attributes of the Deity, which end.^ 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 69 

in the submission of Satan. The whole is interspersed 
with songs and incidents that seem better adapted to 
the stage than the church. For several days this the- 
atrical representation is exhibited at the principal 
houses, and the performers at the conclusion of the 
play are entertained with refreshments. The boys take 
an enthusiastic part in the performance, and follow 
about, from house to house, perfectly enraptured with 
the comicalities of the hermit and Bartolo. 

About this time, tlie general received information of 
an insurrection in the north, headed by a person named 
Soliz. The town of Monterey had surrendered to his 
forces, the garrison having been surprised during the 
night and overpowered without the shedding of blood ; 
and he was now on his way south, to cope with Eche- 
andia. Accordingly, the busy preparations for war 
commenced. Old rusty guns were repaired, hacked 
swords were sharpened, rude lances made, and all the 
force that could be mustered was soon on its way to 
meet the enemy. 

At the commencement of this revolution, there were in 
the hands of the commissary about three thousand dol- 
lars, which were seized upon by Soliz. A contribution 
also was levied upon the inhabitants for the support of 
the new government. Their manifesto declared that 
they only contended for their rights ; that they would not 
interfere with foreigners, nor in any way interrupt the 
commercial interests of the country. Soliz was elected 
President, and had under his command over one hun- 



70 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

dred well-armed men. This was considered a power- 
ful force for California, and it was generally believed 
that Echeandia would have considerable difficulty in 
quelling the disturbance. 

Several weeks elapsed ere we received information 
of the success of the government party. They had 
defeated the rebels, and the ringleaders were taken to 
St. Bias. An old friar of the Mission of St. Luis Obispo 
was charged with having aided the insurgents, and 
after undergoing a strict examination before the general 
and his officers, he was embarked on board a merchant 
ship, and sent out of the country. 

The population of St. Diego being somewhat redu- 
ced in consequence of the departure of the troops, the 
town was dull in the extreme, so that I was compelled 
to make daily use of my fowling-piece, and resort wilh 
greater frequency, to the scene of hide curing at " Hide 
Park." On one of my visits, I was informed by our 
officer in charge, that for several days he had missed 
hides from the number put to soak ; that the night pre- 
vious he got up in consequence of some unusual noise 
among the dogs, and seizing his gun, sallied forth to dis- 
cover the cause. He soon perceived a dark object mov- 
ing along, a little above the surface of the water, at which 
he immediately fired. It dropped at once, and a tall 
figure sprang from the water to the shore, and rushed 
from the beach by one of the pathways leading to the 
hills. It w^as an Indian, who had swam to the hides, 
and, having succeeded in abstracting one of them, was 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 71 

returning to the shore with it upon his head. In this 
way he had stolen about a dozen, which were subse- 
quently found secreted among the bushes. 

During the absence of friend G , I had received 

from him but two letters, which were of a date prior to 
his leaving Santa Barbara for the north, so that I had 
no specified time to look for his return ; but, at length, 
after an absence of three months, the ship was reported 
in the offing, and to my great joy, she soon appeared 
coming round Point Loma. I immediately started for 
the beach, and, putting spurs to my horse, reached our 
barraca just as she came to, when a boat was dis- 
patched to convey me on board. I found as passengers 
in the ship several of the officers who were liberated at 
Monterey, in consequence of the success of Echeandia. 
The ship had made a fortunate trip, and had gathered 
nearly enough hides to make a homeward cargo, and 
only one visit more to the north was to be made ere 
she would leave for the United States. This was grat- 
ifying to the crew, and to all concerned, and the labor 
of discharging went on so briskly, that soon every 
thing was in readiness for our departure. The store 
was abandoned, the goods unsold re-embarked, and 
again we made sail for the port of St. Francisco. 

A tedious passage of twenty-one days brought us to 
the place of anchorage at Yerba Bupna, where we 
found several American vessels, and a large Russian 
ship from Sitka, which had come for a cargo of wheat 
and beef- fat. The next morning after our arrival, I 



72 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

took an early ride to the Mission of St. Clara, and 
from thence, after dinner, visited the Pueblo de San 
Jose, about three miles distant. The road, which is 
level and shaded on each side by large and stately 
trees, is called the " Alameda." It is frequented gener- 
ally on the Sabbath or feast days, when all the town 
repair to the church at Santa Clara. On a Sunday 
may be seen hundreds of persons, of both sexes, gaily 
attired in silks and satins, mounted on their finest 
horses, and proceeding leisurely up the road. No car- 
riages are used, and, of course, the scene is divested of 
all the pomp and splendor which accompanies church- 
going in the larger places of the republic, yet, in one 
respect it excels them all, that is, in the display of fe- 
male beauty. No part of Mexico can show so large a 
share of bright eyes, fine teeth, fair proportions, and 
beautiful complexions. 

The town of St. Jose consists of about one hundred 
houses ; it has a church, court-house, and jail. Its civil 
authorities are an Alcalde, two Regidores, ifec, as in the 
town of Los Angeles, at the south. Their decisions in 
important law cases are subject to the confirmation of 
the Comandante General, ere they can be acted upon. 
In all capital offences, the delinquents, after an investi- 
gation of their cases by the Alcalde, are sent to the su- 
preme government, unless the arbitrary general sees 
proper to take upon himself the execution of the law, 
which has been the case in some few instances. 

Many little gardens of fruit trees are attached to the 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 73 

houses, also some fine fields, where are raised large 
quantities of wheat and corn. A small stream of water 
supplies the means of irrigation, and serves as the pow- 
er to a profitable grist-mill. The men are generally 
indolent, and addicted to many vices, caring little for the 
welfare of their children, who, like themselves, grow up 
unworthy members of society. Yet, with vice so preva- 
lent amongst the men, the female portion of the com- 
munity, it is w^orthy of remark, do not seem to have 
felt its influence, and perhaps there are few places in the 
world, where, in proportion to the number of inhabi- 
tants, can be found more chastity, industrious habits, and 
correct deportment, than among the women of this place. 
This observation may be applied to the country, gener- 
ally ; which is rather surprising when we consider the 
want of distinction observed between those of virtuous 
and immoral habits : for it is not unusual to see at 
public assemblages the most perfect familiarity between 
the two classes. This often misleads strangers, who 
form, in consequence, incorrect opinions. In time, when 
the country becomes more settled, a necessary distinction 
will prevail among the various classes ; and society will 
be found more select, jas in places of greater civilization. 
Their adherence to the faithful observances of the church, 
as in all Catholic countries, is truly firm ; and the most 
trifling deviation from its commands is looked upon with 
abhorrence. The extreme veneration shown towards the 
holy teachers of their religion, and the wonderful influence 
exercised by them, even in the affairs of their every-day 

8 



74 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

life, may account for any virtue they may exhibit. The 
friar's knowledge of the world, and his superior education, 
give him a station far above the unenlightened state of 
the laity, and place him in a sphere to inculcate good 
or disseminate evil. Fortunately, however, for the coun- 
try, the original founders of Christianity in Cahfornia 
were truly pious, excellent men, and their successors, 
generally, have endeavored to sustain their honorable 
character. 

Commerce is very limited, being confined to only four 
or five merchants in the place, who are principally for- 
eigners, so that my business here was soon accomplished ; 
but, ere returning to the ship, I concluded to ride to the 
Mission of St. Jose, about ten leagues from the town. 
My guide took the lead, and we galloped along, over 
a grassy plain, till we reached the banks of quite a large 
river. It was deep, and rapid, and I felt somewhat re- 
luctant to follow my companion, who plunged in, re- 
gardless of danger, and was soon on the opposite side. 
Seeing that I had not kept behind him, he returned 
to encourage, and show me how to proceed. Our horses 
simultaneously stepped in, and I was soon in the mid- 
dle of the stream, with my legs crossed above the sad- 
dle, for the water in some places was so deep from 
recent rains, that our steeds were obliged to swim. 
Having succeeded in reaching the opposite bank in safe- 
ty, although pretty thoroughly wetted, we resumed our 
gallop, till we came to a cluster of hills, where the road 
was somewhat miry, from the continued fiow of a neigh- 






^B'i 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 75 



ing hot spring. The Mission was situated a Httle 
beyond this, and, as we reached the summit of the last 
hill, we saw distinctly its long buildings, and singular 
church. 

The padre was at home when we arrived, and im- 
mediately ordered chocolate and refreshments. This 
was father Narciso Duran, a venerable, old man, who 
iiad spent the most valuable part of his life, in inces- 
sant labor, to promote the advancement of his holy 
religion. Generous, kind, and benevolent, the natives 
not only revered him, as their spiritual father and friend, 
but seemed almost to adore him. He was universally 
beloved, and the neighboring village bore testimony to 
his charitable heart, while many a transient traveller 
blessed him, and thanked God, that such a man existed 
among them. 

The Mission of St. Jose was founded in 1797, and 
had, at this time, a population of about two thousand In- 
dians. It possesses some of the best lands in the coun- 
try for agricultural purposes, from which is obtained an 
immense quantity of grain. It frequently supplies the 
Russian company, who yearly send three or four large 
ships for stores for their northern settlements. In the 
rear of the establishment, is a large reservoir of excellent 
water, which is carried, through pipes, to the gardens, and 
other parts of the Mission. In front of the church is a 
very neat fountain, and also conveniences for washing 
and bathing. In point of beauty, the buildings liere were 
very inferior to those of the southern missions. Dura- 



76 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

bility and convenience alone, seem to have been consult- 
ed in their construction, and they mostly, presented a 
very ordinary appearance. 

Time passed swiftly during my stay with the old friar, 
and I left him with regret. It was late in the day, and 
the sky was clouded ; yet fearing no danger from a 
storm, off I galloped to the landing-place, where I em- 
barked in a small boat, with four Indians to row me to 
the ship. Arriving at the mouth of the creek, we tarried 
there until the tide had risen, to take advantage of the 
entire ebb, and to put off as soon as the water slack- 
ened. The wind blew fresh from the southeast, the 
rain drizzled, and everything foretold a disagreeable 
night. However, we pushed off; but by the time we 
had reached the middle of the bay, the rain increased, 
and darkness closed around us. As the wind was fa- 
vorable, we rigged the boat-hook for a mast, and taking 
the blanket of one of the Indians for a sail, we in this 
way proceeded admirably ; but my oarsmen soon stretched 
themselves in the bottom of the boat, leaving me to ac-» 
complish the voyage under my own management. Un- 
able to perceive any object beyond the boat's head, and 
without a compass, I was obliged to steer by the wind, 
and trust to the chance of its steadiness. In this di- 
lemma, I remained for some hours in extreme doubt as 
to my whereabouts, often imagining I felt a gradual 
increase of the swell, which betokened an approach to 
the sea. At last, I caught a glimpse of the land. This 
gave me encouragement to proceed, and though igno- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 77 

rant of the localities of the place, yet presuming this to be 
the " Mission Point," I bore away for the ship's anchor- 
age. A few minutes of great anxiety passed, when a 
sudden shock fully determined the fact. Our boat had 
struck the vessel amidships, luckily however without 
sufficient force to do us injury. The Indians, supposing 
we had struck a rock, started up in terror, but how great 
ivas their surprise, when, on looking up, they beheld the 
side of our noble ship. The night-watch assisted us in 
securing the boat alongside, and I speedily ascended to 
the deck. We had been four hours performing a dis- 
Lane of thirty miles, with a fair wind and favorable cur- 
rent. Had we been so unfortunate as to have missed 
the ship, we must have been carried out to sea. which 
^vould most probably have been the last of us, but some- 
thing better, or worse, was reserved for our destiny. 

A few days, only, passed ere we were once more, and 
for the last time, on our way to the port of Monterey. 
As we beat along down from the anchorage to " Castle 
Point," the breeze gradually died away, and when we 
reached the very entrance, and narrowest portion of the 
bay, it ceased entirely, leaving us to the force of the 
stream, the strength of which in the centre of the chan- 
nel is from four to six knots an hour. On both sides 
are very strong eddies, and the junction of the waters 
from the northern and southern basins forms a mul- 
titude of whirlpools of such strength that vessels when 
becalmed are frequently driven by them upon the rocks. 
In such cases one or two boats in advance of the ship, to 

8* 



78 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

keep her in range with the current, is of the utmost im- 
portance. After passing the low point south of " Wha- 
ler's Harbor," where may be seen a ^w rocks, no 
danger need be apprehended of striking the northern 
shore, for the course of the current will take every 
thing clear of the rocks, and the soundings are deep. 
We passed so near with our ship, of four hundred tons, 
that I could have jumped upon the projecting points. 
Five miles outside of the castle, the soundings lessen 
considerably, and good anchorage may be found in from 
five to ten fathoms. Here we came to, and w^aited for 
a breeze, as there is danger along the shore at the 
south of the port, unless the vessel has a good offing, 
for the swell sets directly upon the land. We did not 
wait long. The sea breeze soon set in, we continued 
our course, and the next morning found us busily em- 
ployed at Monterey. 

Having progressed thus far on our voyage, it was ne- 
cessary to make arrangements for the disembarkation 
and storage of our cargo remaining unsold. Santa 
Barbara, on account of its central situation and quiet 
character of its population, was determined upon as the 
most suitable location, but it was necessary to ascertain 
if a building could be procured of sufficient capacity. 
For this reason I was obliged to proceed thither with 

all possible haste, G accompanying me as far as 

the Mission of La Soledad. 

It was about nine o'clock in the morning when we 
started, and a few leagues of pleasant riding, mostly 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 79 

through dense woods, brought us to Buena Vista, the 
farm of Don Mariano Estrada. Here we ahghted, 
and found the old gentleman at dinner. He had just 
commenced, and was tasting " la tasa de caldo," a 
bowl of soup. His invitation t^ partake of his cheer 
we accepted, and seated ourselves at the table. We 
found him rather a lover of good eating, and, indeed, 
one would suppose that this remark might apply to all 
Californians, for the lowest personage must have his 
three or four different dishes. Their olla^ azados^ 
giiisados, B.ndfrijoles, are found at every board. Din- 
ner concluded, we took leave of Buena Vista and con- 
tinued our journey. Our road was quite level the 
whole distance, and wound along the base of a long 
range of hills, which run parallel with the sea-coast. 
A river flowed through the valley, emptying into the 
bay of Monterey, upon the bank of which was a farm- 
house belonging to the Mission of Carmelo; this, and 
a few small huts scattered in our route, were the only 
buildings we passed in our ride. It was near sun- 
down when we arrived and dismounted at the door of 
La Soledad. The gloomiest, bleakest, and most abject- 
looking spot in all California ! 

This mission was founded in 1791 ; and, although it 
presents a very unpromising aspect to the traveller from 
the gloominess of its exterior, its interior exhibits a 
striking contrast. A pious old man controls its con- 
cerns, and pours out to his guests with free hospital- 
ity the abundance thereof His charities, his good- 



80 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ness, and meekness of character are proverbial; and to 
have known the old Padre Seria was a happiness in- 
deed. For many yeai-s he was Prefect of the Missions, 
and still exercised this function while attending to the 
spiritual, as well as tMfe temporal affairs of his own es- 
tablishment. In the kindness of his heart, he gave me 
a letter of introduction to the priests of the other Mis- 
sions, requesting their assistance and hospitality during 
my journey. 

The next day I took leave of G and set out for 

the Mission of St. Antonio, ten leagues distant from La 
Soledad. A vaquero accompanied me as guide. We 
travelled slowly, owing to our miserable horses, and the 
almost impracticable state of the road which in many 
places extended across the mountains in narrow path- 
ways, and was so obstructed with rocks, that I was obli- 
ged every few moments to dismount and walk. Thus 
we toiled on ; and in this way we performed the greater 
part of our journey until we arrived at the top of the 
mountains and began to descend on the other side. 
The descent was so gradual that we put our horses 
to the gallop without danger or fear of their stumbling. 
This soon brought us to the neat little Mission of St. 
Antonio, which was the first mark of civilization we 
had met with during the ride. It is built of brick, 
with an arched corridor similar to the other missions, 
and was established in the year 1771. Padre Pedro 
Cabot, the present missionary director, I found to be 
a fine, noble-looking man, whose manner and whole 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 81 

deportment would have led one to suppose he had been 
bred in the courts of Europe, rather than in the cloister. 
Everything was in the most perfect order : the Indians 
cleanly and well dressed, the apartments tidy, the work- 
shops, granaries, and store-houses comfortable and in 
good keeping. Whilst taking chocolate, my host sent 
for the vaquero who was to accompany me in the next 
day's journey, to give him some instructions ; and I 
took occasion to slip out after him, to urge the procu- 
ring of good horses, and the necessity of having them 
ready at early dawn. Soon after supper I retired to my 
quarters, and having arranged everything for an early 
start, getting my saddle, luggage, (fcc, conveniently 
together, sprang into bed, closed my eyes, and slept till 
aroused by a rap at the door and a voice calling " Se- 
ilor ! Sefior ! it is daybreak." As I went forth the 
hght was just peeping over the eastern hills, and our 
horses stood impatiently pawing the ground in the 
courtyard. I sprang into the saddle, and hastened our 
departure ; for I intended to perform, if possible, a two 
day's moderate journey in the next twelve hours. 

Our horses were excellent ; and we galloped briskly 
over a smooth and level road for se-steral leagues, with- 
out checking their speed, except to ford a small river, 
or ascend a few hills in the vicinity of the Mission of 
St. Miguel. From the tops of these we saw spread out 
before us a charming valley, through which our course 
lay. It was near mid-day when we descended the last 
hill, and rode up to the house. Father Juan Cabot, 



82 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

its director, was absent, having gone to pass a few days 
with the padre of St. Luis Obispo. So I repaired to 
the mayordomo, presented my letter, and requested im- 
mediate despatch. As it was necessary to send some 
distance for his horses, the delay of a couple of hours, 
ere they were procured, gave me ample time to look 
about the Mission. Like that of St. Awtonio, it possess- 
ed few resources, owing to its distance from the sea- 
coast, and the moderate extent of its domains. It was 
founded in the year 1797 ; and is built near the ex- 
tremity of a small pass through the hill, where the sun 
casts its burning heat in a degree almost insufferable. 
They say there, in proof of the warmth of the Mission, 
that the fleas carmot endure the summer months, and 
during the heat of the day may be seen gasping upon 
the brick pavements ! At the distance of about five 
leagues is a beautiful little bay called St. Simeon. Its 
anchorage is safe, and well protected from the winds, 
yet it is seldom visited by navigators. 

Having already ridden fourteen leagues, I felt little 
inclined to extend my journey farther,, for my whole 
frame seemed as if it had undergone a severe pummel- 
ling, but ambitious to achieve my morning's underta- 
king, I again set off, following close at the heels of my 
guide. Shortly after our departure we reached a place 
where a sulphurous hot spring boiled up from the 
ground, and formed a little rivulet which crossed the 
road. Father Juan had erected a small house over the 
spot for the purpose of shelter, and convenience for 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 83 

bathing", and it was resorted to by many persons, suffer- 
ing with rheumatic disorders, who generally obtained 
immediate relief. We afterwards stopped at the sheep 
farm belonging to the Mission of St. Miguel, where 
were two large houses and a number of straw huts. Gar- 
dens were attached to them, in which a variety of vege- 
tables were cultivated by the Indians, who were there 
as keepers of eight or ten thousand sheep. Some 
distance off, on the other side of the valley, was a vine- 
yard of excellent grapes, from which were annually 
made considerable quantities of wine and brandy. Fur- 
ther on, some three or four leagues, we reached "el 
rancho de Santa Margarita," a place used for the culti- 
vation of grain, where, on an eminence that overlooked 
the grounds, an extensive building was erected. It 
was divided into store-rooms for different kinds of grain, 
and apartmerits for the accommodation of the mayor- 
domo, servants, and wayfarers. At one end was a 
chapel, and snug lodging-rooms for the priest, who, I 
was informed, frequently came and passed some weeks 
at the place during the time of harvest ; and the holy 
friars of the two missions occasionally met there to ac- 
knoAvledge to each other their sins. - 

Here our horses were changed, and a smart gallop 
through forests of pine and oak, brought us soon to the 
ascent of a rough-looking hill, called " la cuesta de St. 
Luis." 

Notwithstanding its rugged appearance, we easily 
surmounted it, and arrived at the Mission of St. liuis 



84 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Obispo, situated just beyond it. The sun was yet high 
above the hills, and we had journeyed, since morning, 
over eighty miles. I was of course much fatigued, and 
as the Padres Joaquin Jimeno and Cabot were taking 
a walk in the gardens, I had a short time for repose 
ere they returned. The former of these was a young 
man, of not more than twenty-four years of age, born 
in Mexico, from whence he had recently come, and was 
now missionary of St. Luis Obispo. The other, Father 
Cabot, was a native of Spain, and brother to Father 
Pedro Cabot of St. Antonio, but as unlike him in char- 
acter and appearance as he could possibly have been. 
He v/as a tall, robust man of over fifty years, with the 
rough frankness of a hardy sailor, differing widely from 
the soft and pleasing manners of his brother, and cele- 
brated for his good-humor and hospitality. 

This Mission, though formerly a wealthy establish- 
ment, is now of little importance. The buildings are in 
a decayed state, and every thing about them appears 
to have been much neglected. It is surrounded by 
high and rocky hills, the soil of which bears the ap- 
pearance of containing ore of some kind. In the vicin- 
ity are to be found the peculiar indications of gold and 
silver mines. Within a short ride is the harbor of St. 
Luis, where, in former years, during the monopoly of 
the Spanish government, the old friars sometimes se- 
cretly purchased goods of the American trading ships. 
The Mission possesses excellent horses, and a great 
many good mules ; but, owing to want of attention, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 85 

many of them are permitted to stray away, and mix 
with the wild cattle of the mountains. 

The next morning, 1 started at daybreak with an 
excellent vaquero and fine horses. The road continu- 
ed along the Mission valley for some distance, when it 
suddenly changed its course for the hills, and, passing 
over their woody summits, descended to the sea-coast, 
and opened upon a smooth, sandy beach, that extended 
for miles to the south. Here we raced along at a rapid 
rate, full three leagues, till it was necessarj^ to strike off 
for the interior, through numerous sand-hills. Passing 
these, we reached an extensive plain, in the midst of 
which lay the cattle farm of "La Purissima," called 
" Guadaloupe." 

We found the Indians busy at their annual " matan- 
zas " or cattle killing. Numbers of the poor animals 
lay stretched upon the ground, already slaughtered ; 
others, just suffering under the knife of the butcher, 
whilst, in a spacious enclosure, hundreds were crowded 
for selection. The vaqueros, mounted on splendid 
horses and stationed at its entrance, performed by far 
the most important part of the labor. When the ma- 
yordomo pointed out the animal to be seized, instantly 
a lasso whirled through the air, and fell with dextrous 
precision upon the horns of the ill-fated beast. The 
horse, accustomed to the motion, turned as the lasso 
descended, and dragged him to slaughter. Another 
lasso was then thrown, which entrapped his hind leg, 
and threw him prostrate on the ground. In this posi- 



86 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

tion he was dispatched, and the horsemen returned for 
another. Sometimes it happened that one would es- 
cape and make off for the fields, pursued by the " va- 
queros," who, as they rode close in full chase, swung 
their lassos above their heads, and threw them upon 
the animal's horns and neck, giving their well-trained 
horses a sudden check, which brought him tumbling 
to the earth ; or some one of the more expert would 
seize upon him by the tail, and, putting spurs to his 
horse, urge him suddenly forward, overthrowing the 
bull in this manner. 

Leaving Guadaloupe, we continued on for several 
leagues through the plain, then across a range of ele- 
vated hills, arriving at La Purissima before twelve 
o'clock; thus accomplishing the distance of fifty-four 
miles in seven hours. I made arrangements for our 
horses, and we started immediately after dinner for 
"St. Ynes," where we arrived in about three hours. 
Padre Bias was alone, and could not accommodate me 
with horses till the following morning ; but ambitious 
to extend the ride to Santa Barbara, I prevailed upon 
my " Purissima" guide to take me to the other side of 
the mountain. Our horses held out very Avell till we 
reached its base, but here began to fag a little, and 
with great difficulty bore us up the ascent, so that it 
was quite late when we reached a small hut. Being 
completely exhausted, I halted here for the night, and 
in the morning proceeded to Santa Barbara, where every 
thing succeeded as I wished. Within two days after 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 87 

my arrival I had made arrangements for the purchase 
of a spacious building, and was on my way back to 
Monterey. 

I had been absent but nine days when I arrived there, 

and dismounted at the house of friend C . In an 

enclosure in the rear, a party of hunters were practising 
target-shooting with rifles, and appeared to have had 
considerable sport. A tall, gigantic Kentuckian, named 
Galbraith, was retiring from the scene as I entered, with 
extravagant boastings of his superior skill. When din- 
ner was over, they gaily resumed their amusement, and 

G and myself were invited to take part in the sport. 

The mark was a small, square piece of paper, of the size 
of a dollar, secured to a board by a pin through its cen- 
tre. I took my stand at forty paces, fired, and a loud 
shout followed. The mark was hit ! My ball had 
struck the pin fairly upon its head, and driven it through 
the board. My triumph, however, seemed to create no 
little jealousy on the part of our Kentuckian, who chal- 
lenged me to a second trial. But this was enough for 
me ; a chance shot had gained my victory, and I had 
no idea of losing my credit by a second attempt, particu- 
larly with a person who amused himself daily by shoot- 
ing off the heads of Httle " chenates" (blackbirds) at the 
distance of twenty paces. 

In the course of a week we got under way and 
sailed for Santa Barbara, where we arrived safely, and 
immediately commenced landing our cargo. Many of 
our packages were bulky, and it required considerable 



88 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

care to get them through the surf without damage ; and 
owing to the distance of the ship from the shore, and the 
rough state of the beach at times, a fortnight elapsed ere 
everything was disembarked. At length the last load 
was deposited in the house, and the men were employed 
in getting on board wood and water ; this having been 
accomplished, the ship made sail, and^ stood out of the 
bay, on her way to St. Diego, where she was to take in 
her home cargo. The breeze was fair, and a few hours 
carried her iieyond the reach of our glasses. 

So, now I was a resident again on shore — a " comer- 
ciante de Santa Barbara." My house was a building of 
one story, containing one large room some fifty feet 
square, and four smaller ones. The large one was fill- 
ed to the roof with bales and boxes, leaving a narrow 
passage only for communication with the other apart- 
ments, which were differently occupied. One of these 
was fitted up "with shelves and a counter, serving as a 
show-room, and another I had transformed into a bed- 
chamber. I slept in a cot suspended from the cross- 
beams of the roof; and, besides the necessary furnitme 
of chairs, tables, looking-glass, (fcc, I had, displayed 
against the \\^all, two old muskets newly brightened up, 
two pair of pistols, and a very terrific sword. The 
sight of these appalling instruments was ample secu- 
rity against the rogues, who were generally lounging 
about the door, leading from the corridor to the street. 
I had but one companion, a servant, who had lived for 
many years in my father's house, and had followed me 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 89 

m my wanderings. Poor David ! lie was a good, hon- 
est fellow, officiating in many capacities, and often re- 
maining in sole charge of a valuable amount of prop- 
erty ; but he was fated to meet a watery grave a few 
years afterwards, in crossing the passage from Santa 
Barbara to St. Buenaventura. 

The house united with that of my friend Daniel, 
whose immediate vicinity I found of great convenience, 
for we took our meals together ; and he was often of 
much assistance to me in matters of business. In fact, 
Daniel was a sort of factotum for the whole town, and 
was carpenter, or mason by turns, as his services were 
wanted ; for his natural ingenuity made him useful in 
either capacity. For our better security, I made some 
additions to the house, which needed also some repairs 
and painting, so Daniel's aid was required. A large 
cookhouse was built in the rear, surrounded by a high 
wall of brick, and the windows at the end of the house 
were barricaded. David attended to the painting, and 
very soon we had the best-looking establishment in the 
place. 

While our arrangements were going on, G was 

at St. Diego with the ship, superintending the stowing 
of the cargo. I had several letters from him, one of 
which informed me of the arrival, from St. Bias, of the 

ship Harriet, Captain F , whose elopement, and 

flight with his betrothed, I have mentioned in a previous 
chapter. His w4fe, whom he had married immediately 
on his arrival at Lima, he had brought with him. Don 

9* 



90 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Jose Maria Padres, the new Inspector General, was 
passenger with his family, besides over fifty prisoners, 
w^ho had been sent by the Mexican government ; ma- 
king another Botany Bay of the fair fields of California. 
Padres expected to have found there the new Governor, 
Don Manuel Victoria, who was on his way, by land, 
from Lower California, and who, it was reported, would 
again close the ports against foreign flags. 

G , who liad been complaining for some time of 

ill health, was .resolved to return home in the Brookline, 
to obtain medical advice, and had notified me of the 
determination, that I might be prepared, on his arrival, 
to remain alone in charge of the business. A few days 
after, the ship was seen in the offing. As soon as she 

came to, G landed and came up to the house. She 

had put into St. Pedro on her way up, and more hides 
had been embarked, which were to be cured. The old 
house at St. Diego had been taken down, and brought 
up to be erected at Santa Barbara. The carpenter im- 
mediately commenced operations, in laying vats, (fcc, 
so that in a few days the same busy scene of hide salt- 
ing was going on here that had been so long in process 
at St. Diego. At last, the hides being all cured and 
embarked, the day arrived for the ship's departure. 
With a heavy heart, and s^vimming eyes, I took leave 

of G , the officers, and all hope of seeing my home, 

my " native land" again for years. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Mass at Santa Barbara. — Yankee Ingenuity. — Riding in California. — 
An Indian Game. — Temescal. — Secularization of the Missions. — A 
New General for California. — Fire on the Mountains. — Execution of 
two Indians. — Sulpiiurons Spring. — A Launch. — A New Companion. 
— Choyas. — A Bear and Bull Bait. — Pddre Luis and his Comical En- 
glish. — David Douglass, Esq. — St. Juan Bautista. — Pddre Arroyo, — 
A Night with the Fleas. — A Californian Farm-House. — A Priest's 
Travelling Carriage. — An Indian Festival. 

The ship had gone, and a bright Sunday morning 
succeeded her departure. The bells were already ring- 
ing their first call to mass, when Daniel appeared, busily 
employed in making ready his wagon for a ride to the 
Mission. We had but time to snatch a hasty breakfast, 
for Father Antonio, being of delicate constitution, could 
not suffer a long detention from his chocolate, and until 
Mass had been said, he was forbidden to partake of any 
nourishment whatever. In consequence, the whole pop- 
ulation was in motion as early as sunrise, on their way 
to the church. At Daniel's invitation I accompanied 
him, and jumping into the vehicle, I seated myself by 
his side, and off we started. 

Our wagon, once a handcart, through the ingenuity 
of Daniel had been converted to its present use, and was 



92 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

one of the many specimens of his cleverness. He had 
put springs to it, and contrived it that it might be drawn 
by one or two horses, with accommodations for four 
passengers. Several Jersey wagons accompanied us 
on the road, and one very fine-looking barouche, but 
none of them went off with the spirit of our own. The 
others were drawn mostly by mules, led along by a per- 
son on horseback, making rather a ludicrous appearance 
in comparison with the free movement of our carriages 
at home. 

The distance being short, we soon arrived at the Mis- 
sion, and after securing our horse to the railing of 
the corridor, w^e ascended the steps into the private 
apartment of the priest. Padre Antonio had retired for 
the purpose of preparing for the Mass, but we found a 
number of the chief men of the town, and officers of 
the army, seated around in familiar conversation. 
Among them were the Comandante, Pecheco, dressed 
in full uniform, Don Jose dela Guerra, a retired veteran, 
dressed in citizen's clothes, with two gold epaulettes, and 
Lieutenant Antonio Maria Valle, a Httle dried-up piece 
of vanity, who made up in boastful words what he 
lacked in physical proportions. I was a stranger to the 
party, and received a formal introduction to the two first 
mentioned. The seats were all occupied, and I saw no 
place for me to sit, but by lifting from the sofa the hat 
of Yalle, which I handed to that august personage, and 
squeezed myself in by his side. This was sufficient to 
wound his pride, and call forth a demonstration of his 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 93 

dissatisfaction ; but perceiving I paid no attention to his 
indignation, his rage t«gan to increase, when the tolling 
of the bell, announcing the commencement of the cere- 
mony, put an end to the scene, and we passed into the 
church to take part in the devotion. After Mass we 
again repaired to the apartment of Padre Antonio, 
where breakfast had been prepared, and served upon a 
long table. All were kindly invited to partake, but as 
Daniel and I had already breakfasted, we declined, and 
taking our leave, returned home. 

As we rode along we had an excellent opportunity 
of seeing the different varieties of riding, common in 
the country. The universal mode of travelling, with 
both males and females, is on horseback ; the latter 
generally ride with a person behind them, who guides 
the horse. In this way many were returning from the 
Mission. Now and then we passed a poor broken-down 
horse with three lazy vagabonds astride him, who un- 
feelingly beat and spurred him onward. A few old 
men came trotting along, who from their firm manner 
of riding with their legs clinging to the sides of their 
horses, seemed almost to have grown to them. More 
amusing still, we saw many children of not more than 
three or four years of age, two or three together on one 
horse, who appeared as secure in their seats as the old 
men who Uved all their lives in the saddle. The 
young commence thus early their lessons in horseman- 
ship, and when despatched by their parents on some 
errand, the two more expert riders seat the youngest 



94 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

between them, and go tearing across the country with- 
out the least apprehension, notP unfrequently with a 
bullock's hide dragging over the ground behind them. 
Both young and old are passionately fond of riding, and 
rarely go from one house to another, no matter how 
short the distance, except on horseback. Many take 
their meals in the saddle, and the pqpr animal is fortu- 
nate if he gets either food or drink till late at night, 
when his master quits his back for his bed and retires 
to repose. 

I sat down at my door on my return, to enjoy the 
following lively scene. In the front of the house was 
a large square, where the Indians assembled on Sun- 
day afternoons, to indulge in their favorite sports and 
pursue their chief amusement — gambling. Here num- 
bers were gathered together in little knots, who ap- 
peared engaged in angry conversation ; they were ad- 
justing, as Daniel informed me, the boundary lines for 
the two parties who were to play that mfternoon at ball, 
and were thus occupied till dinner time. When I re- 
turned from dinner they had already commenced, and 
at least two or three hundred Indians of both sexes were 
engaged in the game. It was the " Presidio" against the 
" Mission." They played with a small ball of hard wood, 
which, when hit, would bound with tremendous force 
without striking the ground for two or three hundred 
yards. Great excitement prevailed, and immense ex- 
ertion was manifested on both sides, so that it was not 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 95 

till late ill the afternoon that the game was decided in 
iavor of the Indians of the Presidio. 

Many of the Indians retked afterwards to the enjoy- 
ment of their Temescal or hot air baths, which is their 
usual resort after fatigue, and is the sovereign remedy 
,for nearly all their diseases. A round hovel or oven 
of mud is built, generally, over an excavation in the 
ground. An opening is left in the roof for the escape 
of the smoke, and one at the side, for entrance. As 
many persons as it can conveniently hold, enter, and 
make a fire close to the door on the inside. They con- 
tinue to add fuel to the flame till they can no longer 
bear the intense heat, which throws them into a pro- 
fuse perspiration. Thoroughly exhausted, they crawl 
forth from the hut, and plunge themselves headlong 
into the nearest stream. I have frequently seen the 
old men lying about on the floor of the oven apparent- 
ly bereft of all their strength, whilst some of the 
younger persons enjoyed it, and sang and laughed 
under its influence. The women also frequently make 
use of these baths, repeating them till their diseases are 
cured. 

A few weeks passed away, and we received intelli- 
gence of the arrival of the ship Harriet at Monterey. 
The captain had been arrested by order of General 
Echeandia, and was separated from his wife for having 
dared to break through the required formalities attached 
to the marrying of foreigners. They were to be thus 
separated until their arrival at the Mission of St. 



96 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Gabriel, where the missionary president resided. Here, 
after complying with the requisitions of the chm*ch, they 
were to be remarried. It is uncertain whether the 

cause of so much trouble and annoyance to F 

originated in the special care of the ecclesiastical func- 
tionary for the fair Californian, or was the consequence 
of the open violation of the law. Perhaps the parents 
may have been dissatisfied ^t^ith the elopement, and for 
their better satisfaction had solicited the interference of 
the constituted authorities. 

Rumors had been circulated for some days past that 
the soldiers and convicts meditated a revolt, in order to 
rob and murder the foreign residents. — A plan was de- 
vised by some Mazatlan troops, who came to guard the 
convicts. — Base cut-throats and villains ! they would 
have carried it into execution had they supposed them- 
selves sufficiently strong. — Hardly a day transpired with- 
out seeing them returning from the beach at evening, 
with their black silk handkerchiefs as banners ! em- 
blematical of the blackness of their intentions. — On one 
occasion, while celebrating the glorious 16th of Septem- 
ber, the annual celebration of their independence, the 
principal demonstrations of joy were confined to the 
square of the Garrison. — The figure of a " gachupiii^^'' 
or Spaniard, was hung in effigy, and as the valiant 
" Mazatecas''' let off their rockets they cried " Death to 
the Spaniards and foreigners." The " Comandante^'* 
though particularly friendly with two respectable old 
Spaniards (the only ones in Santa Barbara), and ex- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 97 

tremely partial to tlie foreigners, yet was beheld 
in the midst of the crowd, as if foremost among the 
revellers. 

The American residents were all well armed, and 
ready to unite on the first alarm. A large church bell, 
which had been suspended from one of the cross-beams 
of ray store-room, was by agreement intended to an- 
nounce the least appearance of treachery, for, as here 
lay the greatest temptation, undoubtedly here would 
have been the first point of attack. 

The new Inspector, Jose Maria Padres, pretending 
to take much interest in bettering the condition of the 
natives, soon commenced a work of destruction, under 
the name of reform. The act for the secularization 
of the Missions, passed by the Mexican Congress 
on the 13th September, 1813, was now put in force, 
and, through the ready compliance of Echeandia, par- 
tially carried into effect. In some of the Missions the 
Indians abandoned their labor, and, when chastised, in- 
sulted the priests. These flourishing institutions, as 
they had been, were in danger of immediate subversion 
and ruin. Through the encouragement of Echeandia, 
vice of all kinds had become prevalent, and the poor 
misguided Indians saw in the terms libre and indepen- 
dente a sort of license for the indulgence of every pas- 
sion. But, fortunately for the country, at this crisis 
the new General, Don Manuel Victoria, arrived at Santa 
Barbara, on the 10th of January, 1831, on his way to 
the seat of government, at Monterey. 

10 



98 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Senor Victoria was a tall, lean, half Indian kind of 
person, with sufficient resolution and courage to consti- 
tute him, in his own opinion, a legion amongst this 
unsophisticated race of Californians. He came unat- 
tended, and required no ceremonious reception. As soon 
as he received the command from Echeandia, his first 
step was to counteraot the ruinous effects of the impru- 
dence of his predecessor, and to restore the Missions to 
their former state. Echeandia retired to St. Diego ; and 
Padres to St. Francisco, where he remained some time, 
sowing seeds of discord and discontent among the in- 
habitants, till ordered to Santa Barbara, where he was 
put on board a vessel for St. Bias. 

About this time we were much alarmed, in conse- 
quence of the burning of the woods upon the moun- 
tains. For several days the smoke had been seen to 
rise from the distant hills of St. Buenaventura, and 
gradually approach the town. At last it had reached 
the confines of the settlement, and endangered the fields 
of grain, and gardens. Soon it spread low upon the 
hills, and notwithstanding a strong westerly wind was 
blowing, the flames travelled swiftly to windward, con- 
suming everything in their course. It was late at night 
when they reached the rear of the town, and as they 
furiously wreathed upwards, the sight was magnificent, 
but terrible. The wind blew directly upon the town, 
and the large cinders that fell in every direction seemed 
to threaten us with certain destruction. The air was 
too hot to breathe. The inhabitants fled from their 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 99 

homes to the beach, or sought the house of Senor No- 
riega, where prayers were offered and the saints suppli- 
cated. The vessels at anchor in the bay were also 
much endangered, for their decks were literally covered 
with the burning cinders, and their crews incessantly 
employed in keeping them wet. During the entire 
night the ravages of the fire continued, and when day- 
light broke it had seized upon the vineyard belonging 
to the Mission. Here the green state of vegetation 
somewhat checked its progress, and it passed over to the 
mountains again, to pursue its course northward. On 
the uplands every thing was destroyed, and, for months 
afterwards, the bare and blackened hills marked the 
course of the devastating element. 

The character of our new Governor soon began to 
reveal itself, in the execution of his determined spirit to 
do justice. Two Indians, who had been convicted of 
cattle stealing, were, by his orders, publicly shot in the 
Presidio of Monterey ; thus effectually putting a stop to 
robberies of all kinds. But an act so rash and hasty 
was likely to destroy his popularity, and materially 
injure his career in California, although the result was 
so beneficial to the community. The act was uncon- 
stitutional, and served, among the discontented spirits of 
the country, to hasten the revolution, the germ of which 
Padres had left behind him. 

A few leagues from Santa Barbara is a hot spring, 
where the inhabitants resort in some cases of disease. 
I accompanied a few friends to the place, one of whom 



100 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

was desirous of proving its efficacy in curing rheuma- 
tism. We rode across the little settlement of Monte- 
cito, and soon came to a rough and narrow passage 
leading to the mountains, which we ascended till the 
path became so intricate that it was impossible to pro- 
ceed further on horseback ; so dismounting and securing 
our horses, we walked to the spring, where the waters 
were boiUng up Avith much force. The place was very- 
rocky, and the stream had washed away the earth, 
forming numerous cavities sufficiently large to contain 
one person. These were filled with water of different 
temperatures, varying according to the distance from 
the source of the spring, which in some places was so 
hot that I could not bear my hand in it. There are a 
few shanties on the spot for the accommodation of fami- 
lies, who frequently pass several days there during 
the summer months. After bathing, we returned home 
to the town, much enervated from the peculiar charac- 
ter of the waters. 

A launch was to take place at St. Pedro, of the sec- 
ond vessel ever constructed in California. She was a 
schooner of about sixty tons, that had been entirely 
framed at St. Gabriel and fitted for subsequent com- 
pletion at St. Pedro. Every piece of timber had been 
hewn and fitted thirty miles from the place, and brought 
down to the beach iq^on carts. She was called the 
" Guadaloupe," in honor of the patron saint of Mexico ; 
and as the affair was considered quite an important era 
in the history of the country, many were invited from 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. lOi 

far and near to witness it. Her builder was a Yankee, 
named Chapman, who had served his apprenticeship 
with a Boston boat-builder. He was one of the crew 
on board the piratical cruiser that attacked Monterey, at 
which time he was taken prisoner, and had lived in the 
country ever since. From his long residence, he had 
acquired a mongrel language ; English, Spanish, and 
Indian being so intermingled in his speech, that it was 
difficult to understand him. Although iUiterate, his 
great ingenuity and honest deportment had acquired 
for him the esteem of the Californians, and a con- 
nection in marriage with one of the first families of 
the country. Father Sanchez, of St. Gabriel, used 
to say that Chapman could get more work out of the 
Indians in his unintelligible tongue than all the mayor- 
domos put together. I was present on one occasion, 
when he wished to despatch an Indian to the beach, 
at St. Pedro, with his ox-wagon, charging him to re- 
turn as soon as possible. His directions ran somewhat 
in this manner. " Ventui^a ! vamos ! trae los biieyes 
go down to the Playa^ and come back as quick as you 
can puede.^^ 

I visited St. Diego about this time, stopping on the 
route at St. Pedro. My companion was Ferdinand 
Deppe, a fine gentlemanly fellow, a native of Germany, 
who was agent for a Mexican house, and was there 
conducting the business of the ship Harriet. It be- 
ing late in the day when we started, he proposed ta- 
king a short cut across the hills, which brought us into 
10* 



102 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

the midst of a large tract covered with choyas, or prick- 
ly pears. They had wounded my horse's legs severely, 
and he commenced plunging and jumping ; at every 
movement, adding to his own pains, and increasing my 
danger. After much trouble, we got clear of the abomi- 
nable place, and I dismounted to overhaul and examine 
the extent of damage. My horse had sticking to the 
inner side of his thighs and legs a multitude of the 
heads of the choyas, w^hich, with a stick, I prepared to 
remove. At the very first effort I Avas rewarded by a 
presentation of both heels of the animal, which struck 
me just below the groin, and laid me prostrate on the 
ground. Deppe was amazed, and believed me killed, 
but a few moments convinced him of his mistake. I 
was considerably lamed, and having exchanged horses 
with him, we rode along slowly to the beach. The 
" Harriet" lay at anchor, and the new schooner " Guada- 
loupe" had just left the inner harbor for the usual place 
of anchorage. Several days elapsed ere I could walk, 
and I ever after looked upon the choyas with an evil 
eye. 

No other incident worthy of notice occurred during 
my journey, and I returned to Santa Barbara, after 
a pleasant trip, in time to witness a bull and bear bait 
that was to take place at the Mission, the day fol- 
lowing. 

Old Bruin was first, however, to be caught, and 
about a dozen vaqiieros, with their mayordomo, started 
off to entrap him. On such occasions, a bright moon- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 103 

light niglit was always selected, and their usual mode 
of securing him was as follows. In some remote spot 
which the bears most frequented, a bullock was slain 
and his carcass left exposed. At an early hour the In- 
dians repaired to some neighboring concealment where 
they watched the bear's approach, which was announ- 
ced by the howling of wolves, and the noise of im- 
mense numbers of coyotes. He usually crept along sus- 
piciously towards the bait, and while eagerly engaged 
in consuming it, the Indians suddenly pounced upon 
him from their ambush, and with their lassos thrown 
around his neck, tumbled him to the ground. Often- 
times at the approach of his pursuers he w^ould rise on 
his hind legs, prepared for defence, when the lassos were 
either broken or forced from the rider. The expert va- 
qiiero, however, generally succeeded, and poor Bruin, 
foaming with rage, gagged, and secured with a dozen 
lassos, was drawn to the Mission ; either upon a low, 
iwo-wheeled cart, or a large bullock's hide. 

Success had attended them on this occasion, and at 
sunrise a large grey bear was secured to a tree in front 
of the Mission. It was past noon when I rode up and 
dismounted to look at the poor condemned brute, who, 
almost exhausted with heat and rage, seemed hardly 
competent to the trial that awaited him. Persons 
were standing around, thrusting pointed sticks into his 
sides, till the madness of the infuriated animal knew 
no bounds. A sailor, rather the worse for " aguar- 
diente," reeled up to take part in the fun, and with his 



i04 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

recklessness and wit added infinitely to the amusement. 
At length an unfortunate stagger brought him within 
reach of Bruin's paw, who seized him by the leg and 
drove his teeth quite through the calf. With extreme 
difiiculty, they rescued him from his danger, and a 
skilful practitioner happening to be near, the wound 
was immediately sewed up. 

The time arrived 'for the sport to commence, and 
every one repaired to a large square, formed by the 
junction of the long corridor with a temporary fence of 
poles. The bear, still encumbered with his fastenings^ 
was first brought in, and then the bull came plunging 
into the enclosure, as if a match for a dozen such oppo- 
nents. A lasso was fastened to the hind leg of the bear^ 
leaving his fore paws at liberty for defence, and con- 
necting with one of the bull's fore legs, so contrived as to 
give them a scope of about twenty feet for manoeuvring. 
This being accomplished, the other fastenings were re- 
moved, and the two terrified creatures remained sole 
occupants of the square. The bull roared, pawed the 
earth, flung his head in the air, and at every move- 
ment of his opponent seemed inclined to escape, but 
the lasso checked his course", and brought them both 
with a sudden jerk to the ground. Bruin, careless of 
the scene around him, looked with indifference upon 
his enemy, seemingly too exhausted to bear the strug- 
gle, but the jerk of the lasso aroused him as if to a 
sense of danger, and he rose up on his hind legs, in 
the posture of defence. At this moment, the bull 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 105 

rushed upon him, and with his sharp horns seemed to 
have gored him through ; but not so, for a mournful 
bellow told his situation. The bear had seized upon 
him by the nose, whilst his paws clung around his 
horns. A sudden exertion, however, liberated the 
bull from this embrace, and .a second plunge drove his 
horns half way through his enemy's side, and tossed 
him high in the air, whence he fell powerless to the 
ground. One or two more successful attacks decided 
the fate of Bruin, and he was dragged from the arena, 
covered with numerous and ghastly wounds. The 
conflict in this case had been short, owing to the ex- 
hausted condition of the bear ; but, on some occasions, 
it was continued even to the exhausting of a second 
bull ; this was rare, however, and more frequently a 
strong bull was able to cope with two such adversaries. 

On this occasion every body attended, as is customary 
in all their amusements, and men, women, and chil- 
dren took part in the discussions relative to the fight. 
Such exhibitions served for a topic of conversation 
amongst all classes for months afterwards, and the per- 
formance elicited as much applause as is usually be- 
stowed on the triumph of some great actor in the thea- 
tres of our own country. 

A slight misunderstanding in trade with one of the 
priests of San Francisco rendered it advisable that I 
should visit the north, and accordingly, having made 
all necessary arrangements, I was soon on my way for 
that quarter. Arriving at the Mission of St. Luis 



106 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Obispo on the second day of my journey, how great 
was my surprise, on riding up to the corridor, to be 
saluted by the Padre in my own language. " How do 
you do, sir ? Very good oysters, Mr. Fish ! come iii ! 
May the devil skin you to make your mother a night- 
cap !" The most outrageous oaths rattled from his 
tongue with most amusing volubihty. At last, tired 
of his display in English, he abandoned it for a lan- 
guage more harmonious in sound, and in which he 
was more competent to converse. The mystery was 
soon solved. An eccentric old Scotchman, named Mul- 
hken, had resided with him a number of years during 
his administration of the Mission of Santa Cruz, and 
had amused himself in his leisure moments by adding 
to the old friar's limited stock of English ; who, poor 
man ! profoundly ignorant of the 7'eal meaning of his 
salutations, thought he had addressed me in the most 
civil and courteous manner ! Father Luis had re- 
cently taken charge of this establishment, and Padre 
Jimeno had gone to the Mission of St. Luis Rey. 
Everything was in fine order, and the hospitality of 
the new director equalled that ever bestowed by his 
predecessor. Horses were furnished me on the morning 
following, and I continued my journey to Monterey. 
Three days afterwards, late at night and suffering with 
cold, I rode into the town. 

Soon after my arrival friend Deppe appeared as a 
visitor, and agreed to accompany me to the Missions of 
Santa Clara and St. Jose, for the annual feast of the 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 107 

latter was to be celebrated soon with considerable pomp, 
and he had much wished to witness a festival of the 
Indians. 

I found a new resident at Monterey — David Douglas, 
Esq., a naturahst from Scotland, who had been inde- 
fatigable in his researches throughout the northern 
regions of America, and was adding to his treasure 
the peculiar productions of California. I was told he 
would frequently go ofi', attended only by his little dog, 
and with rifle in hand search the wildest thicket in 
hopes of meeting a bear; yet the sight of a bullock 
grazing in an open field was to him more dreadful than 
all the terrors of the forest. He once told me that this 
was his only fear, little thinking what a fate was in 
reserve for him. He went afterwards from Monterey 
to the Sandwich Islands. One morning he was found 
at the bottom of a pit which had been prepared as a 
trap for wild bulls. It is supposed that from curiosity 
he had approached too near to get a sight of the furious 
animal that had been ensnared, and the earth giving 
way, precipitated him below. The merciless brute had 
gored him to death. His faithful little dog was found 
near the spot, watching a basket of his collections. 

After two days' detention at Monterey I started off 
with Deppe on our way to St. Francisco. The com- 
mencement of the journey was along a sandy road, 
over numerous hills that gave us a fine view of the bay 
and shipping at anchor. Several scattered huts, gra- 
zing cattle, and now and then a deer enlivened the 



108 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

scene. A few leagues brought us to an extensive plain, 
which we crossed, and entered upon a narrow road lead- 
ing, through a range of beautiful green hills, to the 
Mission of St. Juan Bautista. An alameda, or shaded 
walk, of some length, gave access to the establishment, 
on each side of which were gardens and cultivated 
fields. 

This Mission was founded in the year 1797, and had 
in 1831 a population of about twelve hundred civil- 
ized Indians. It is conveniently located in the centre 
of a valley, with an abundance of rich land and large 
stocks of cattle. Padre Fehpe Arroyo was the mission- 
ary, whose infirm state of health kept him confined 
closely to his chamber. For amusement, when tired 
of study, he called in the children of the place and set 
them to dancing and playing their games. In his ec- 
centric taste he had given them the names of all the 
renowned personages of antiquity, and Ciceros, Platos, 
and Alexanders were to be found in abundance. A 
particular regard for us procured from the old gentle- 
man a sleeping apartment adjoining his own, not usu- 
ally bestowed upon travellers. When we retired, how- 
ever, we were surprised to find no sheets upon the bed, 
but in their stead, coarse blankets. Shut out from any 
means of access to the other parts of the building, except 
through the room of the Padre, it was impossible to 
remedy the deficiency. Our light was extinguished, 
and soon Deppe's nasal organs announced how deep 
was his repose ; but I lay restless and uneasy. I could 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 109 

not sleep ; the blankets pricked my flesh, the room was 
warm, and at times it would seem as if a thousand 
needles penetrated my legs and sides. Can it be the 
blankets, thought I, or are they filled with fleas ; and 
if so, how is it that Deppe sleeps so sound. The more 
I reasoned, the more horrible became my situation, and 
I feared I was to become a martyr to never-ending tor- 
tures. They were fleas indeed ! and it appeared to me 
as if they came in armies to glut their appetites with 
human blood ! It was terrifying ! for I thought they 
would surely suck me dry before morning, and I jumped 
with horror from the bed to the floor. But it was like 
jumping " out of the frying-pan into the fire," for the 
floor was of tile, and the crevices their place of abode. 
I felt them jump upon my legs and feet, and reaching 
down my hand, 1 swept them off" by dozens. The bed 
was least exposed on this account, so back I got, Avhen 
a sudden twitch of Deppe's frame, and an extra snore, 
or snort^ revealed his sanilar fate. Rolling about from 
side to side, he could suffer no longer in silence, but 
cried out " Carramba ! what de divil is in de bed ? ' 
" Fleas !" said I, "ha ! ha ! fleas ! and they will devour 
us before morning !" Thus the whole tedious night 
was passed in scratching and complaining till morning 
broke, when, worn out with fatigue and loss of sleep, we 
finally closed our eyes and slept till roused to chocolate. 
As we passed the old friar, on our way to the breakfast- 
room, his friendly inquiries were incessant. " Buenos 
dias ! como pasaron vmds. la noche ?" To which I 

11 



110 , LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

would have frankly replied, but politeness forbade, and 
a shrug of the shoulders brought forth the feeble and 
laconic answer, " Bien ! gracias !" 

The whole country is infested with fleas, and it is a 
rare thing to find a house without them, so that the 
natives have become accustomed to their bite, and think 
nothing of it. » After this trial, I set myself down as fit 
to compete with any native, and really thought, since 
passing such a night, I could bear as much as the thick- 
est skinned among them. 

By the time we got through with our chocolate the 
horses were at the door, and we hastened to take leave 
of Padre Arroyo. The usual formalities of leave-taking 
having passed, we mounted and rode along with our va- 
quero on a pleasant gallop, till we had crossed the plain, 
when we came to a river, which had been concealed till 
now by the density of the trees. It was the River 
" Pajaro," which we Avere obliged to ford, and which, 
during the rainy season, becomes at times impassable. 
Having accomplished this, we crossed several hills, and 
stopped at the house of a Yankee carpenter, who had 
been several years in the country, and had married a 
Californian wife — a clever, good-natured mechanic, 
Avhose only fault (that of intemperance) had prevented 
his advancement in life, and kept him, as he ever will 
be, in an embarrassed situation. His ingenuity had 
given him a wooden house, a novelty in California, and 
the chairs and tables bore testimony to his industry. 
His wife gave us some milk, with bread and cheese, of 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. Ill 

which we partook, and continued on our route.- From 
this place we rode through a flat, level country, of fif- 
teen or twenty miles in extent, w4iere, on each side, 
ranged high hills and mountains. These were covered 
with pines ; and on the level below were thousands of 
scattered oaks. A flock of antelopes crossed our path as 
we rode along, and away they scampered for the moun- 
tains. These were the first I had seen in the country, 
as they are not numerous at the south. At length the 
highland on each side closed to a narrow passage, and 
we ahghted at the farm-house of a CaUfornian. 

As we rode up to the entrance, a score of dogs came 
rushing out, as if to annihilate us, but a gentle reproof 
from the master, who appeared at the door, called them 
oflf, and we entered. This cottage was built of sticks, 
covered over w^ith mud, and the roof with " brea." 
There were but two apartments, and these were occu- 
pied with several neat and comfortable beds. An ele- 
gance was displayed here which surprised me ; but after- 
wards, I learned that it was no uncommon thing to find 
laces and satins in the houses of the most needy. All 
their food was cooked outside of the house, and a few 
paces in front stood a garden, Avhere vegetables were 
raised. A few of the tamest of the farmer's cattle were 
grazing around the house, and several young calves 
were shut up in a small enclosure. Dinner was pre- 
pared for us — horses were proffered to assist us on the 
journey, and, as usual among these hospitable people, 
no recompense was required. 



112 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

It was growing late, and we started for the Mission of 
Santa Clara, which is about twenty leagues distant from 
St. Juan. A short ride brought us to the " Pueblo de San 
Jose," when we quickly passed up through the beautiful 
" Alameda," and stopped at the door of the Mission. 

Being the festival eve, many of the Indians were 
starting off in numbers ; and ere the sun had set, hun- 
dreds were upon the road for St. Jose. Father Viader 
was to go in the morning, before breakfast, and, it being 
but a short ride, we concluded to remain and accom- 
pany him. 

The morning presented the same lively scene of 
people going to the feast ; and, at an early hour, the 
Padre's carriage was brought to the door. It was a 
singular contrivance, invented by himself, and built 
by the Indian mechanics under his direction — a narrow 
body, of sufficient width for one person only, hung on a 
pair of low wheels ; and the whole frame was covered 
with brown cotton. The seat, well stuffed with lambs' 
wool, served to compensate for the absence of springs ; 
and the harness, which he had made from green hide, 
twisted into rope, though not very ornamental, was 
sufficiently strong, and answered every purpose. 

All being in readiness. Padre Viader got into his car- 
riage. We mounted our horses, and off we started in 
grand equestrian order. The carriage was drawn by a 
line black mule, astride of which sat a Uttle Indian 
boy, who assisted in guiding the animal, in connection 
with a more experienced Indian, who, mounted on a 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 113 

fiery steed, led the mule with a " reata" fastened about 
his neck. On each side were two " vaqueros," with 
lassos fixed to the axletree, by which they facilitated 
the movement of the carriage over the road, and essen- 
tially aided the mule in ascending steep places. Three 
or four of the priest's pages attended him also ; and in 
the rear followed a number of Alcaldes of the Mission. 
All were attired for the occasion, and from their hats 
Avere flowing red and blue ribbons, which, like pennons, 
fluttered in the wind. 

A quick movement brought us to a view of the Mis- 
sion from a neighboring rising ground, from whence 
we saw the gathering multitude ; and as we approached 
nearer, the bells of the church rang a merry peal, in 
honor to the priest, which continued until the two mis- 
sionary brothers were fast locked in an embrace 5 when 
the ringing ceased, and we retired within. 

It is a prevaihng custom at every town or mission in 
the country to give this demonstration of respect to the 
holy friar ; and not unfrequently many of the inhabit- 
ants go out to meet him, and escort him to his quarters. 
This respectful observance to a priest rather provoked 
the jealousy of one of the Mexican governors, w^ho, in 
a circular to this holy brotherhood, ordered that the bells 
should be rung whenever he approached their Mis- 
sions. The order was complied with, and has been 
observed to his successors down to the present day. 

Mass was soon commenced, and Padre Viader at the 
usual period of the ceremony ascended the pulpit, and 
11* 



114 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

delivered an explanatory sermon relative to the celebra- 
tion of the day. The music was well executed, for it 
had been practised daily for more than two months un- 
der the particular supervision of Father Narciso Duran. 
The number of the musicians was about thirty ; the 
instruments performed upon were violins, flutes, trum- 
pets, and drums ; and so acute was the ear of the priest 
that he would detect a wrong note on the part of either 
instantly, and chide the erring performer. I have often 
seen the old gentleman, bareheaded, in the large square 
of the Mission beating time against one of the pillars of 
the corridor, whilst his music was in rehearsal. 

After mass was concluded we passed out of the church 
to the priest's apartment through a shower of rockets, 
which were fired off incessantly in every direction. Din- 
ner was served early to give us time to witness the per- 
formances of the Indians ; and as there were many 
strangers at the Mission, a very lengthy table had been 
prepared, so as to accommodate all. An abundance of 
good things appeared and disappeared, till at length the 
cloth was removed ; cigars were smoked, and the good 
old friars retired to enjoy their " siesta," whilst we re- 
paired to the front corridor to behold the fun. 

At a signal from their " Capitan," or chief, several In- 
dians presented themselves at the corner of one of the 
streets of the " Rancheria" and gradually approached to- 
wards us. They were dressed with feathers, and painted 
with red and black paint : looking like so many demons. 
There were several women amongst them. Soon they 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 115 

formei.1 a circle, and commenced what they called dan- 
cing, which was one of the most ludicrous specimens 
of grotesque performance I had ever seen. It did not ap- 
pear to me that they had any change of figure whatever ; 
but fixed to one spot, they beat time with their feet to 
the singing of half a dozen persons who were seated 
upon the ground. When these had performed their 
part, they retired to an encampment beyond the build- 
ing and another party appeared, painted and adorned 
rather differently from the former, whose mode of dan- 
cing, also, was quite dissimilar. They retired after a 
w^hile, and arrangements were made for a bear fight. 
Whilst these amusements were going on, the Padres had 
risen, and we were called to chocolate ; but the enthu- 
siasm of the Indians hardly gave us time to finish, when 
we heard them crying " Aqui traen el oso !" He was 
soon ready, though almost dead from confinement, and 
the bull made but a few plunges, ere he laid him stiff 
upon the ground. This part of the amusement conclu- 
ded, Deppe and I walked to the encampment, where the 
Indians were dancing in groups, as we had seen them at 
the Mission. Around the large space which they occu- 
pied were little booths, displaying a variety of orna- 
ments, seeds, and fruit. All was hilarity and good feel- 
ing ; for the prudence of Father Narciso had forbidden 
the sale of liquor. At sundown the bells were rung — 
rockets were let off — guns were fired ; and long after sup- 
per, at a late hour of the night, we could hear from our 
beds the continued shouts of the multitude. 



116 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

We returned safe to Santa Clara early on the fol- 
lowing morning, where I was to adjust with Father 
Viader the misunderstanding which had called me to 
the north. This required but a short explanation, for 
his good and yielding disposition set every thing to 
rights ; so I took leave of him and my friend Deppe, 
and departed for home. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Interesting News. — Another Revolution. — Arrival of Gen. Victoria with 
Troops.— Defeat of Victoria.— His Expulsion.— A new Government 
— Pio Pico Governor. — Arrival of the banished Priests.— Opposition 
of the North to the South.— State of Santa Barbara.— A Good Joke. 
— Ruinous Condition of the Indians. — Sail ho ! 

About a month after my arrival, a ship came into 
port and anchored. It was the Harriet; and soon 
friend Deppe and Captain F made their appear- 
ance, coming up the street towards the house. As they 

drew near, F held up a letter. Supposing it was 

merely a communication from some one residing in the 
country, I took no particular notice of it, until a closer 

glance revealed the well known writing of G ! 

" Give it to me ! when did you get it ? where is it from 7 
How do you do ?" I cried in a breath. Snatching it from 
his hand, 1 tore it open, and found that it was dated 

but two days back, and my old friend G was at 

Monterey, with a new ship from Boston, called the 
Cahfornia ! 

This was information so agreeable, that I was una- 
ble to sleep much during the night, and at an early 
hour I arose. Whilst packing up some goods, to go 
on board the Harriet, the door suddenly opened, and the 






118 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

large, glass eyes of " Cuatro Ojos" struck full upon me. 
If it had been the bowsprit of his new ship, I could not 
have been more surprised ; however, we were soon 
seated together, and he explained the cause of his sud- 
den appearance. The General had unceremoniously 
taken leave of Monterey, and was on his way down, 
to put a stop to some revolutionary movements that 
were in agitation at St. Diego. His abrupt departure 

prevented any satisfactory arrangement with G , 

and this was the reason why he had come to Santa 
Barbara. He came passenger in a whale ship, whose 
captain politely landed him on his way down the coast. 
The General had been some days on the road, and he 
was looked for, hourly. 

The following morning, I called upon the " Coman- 

dante" with G , from whom we ascertained that 

letters had been received from Victoria, giving informa- 
tion of his proximity, and that he would soon be here. 
It was near noon, when he came riding slowly along 
the road to the Presidio. Twenty soldiers accompa- 
nied him, who were well armed and equipped for ser- 
vice. It was necessary to make application to him 
immediately, relative to business, so we repaired to 
his quarters, and had the good fortune to adjust every 
thing: to our satisfaction. 

The brig Plant had sailed from Boston in company 
with the " California," having been despatched by the 
owners to enable me to close up the interests of the 
Brooklyn voyage. By persuasion of G . I accom- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 119 

panied him back, and left instructions for the master, 
on his arrival, to proceed to Monterey. The same 
morning that we commenced our journey north, Victo- 
ria proceeded to the south. 

Upon our arrival at Monterey, immediate preparations 

were made for the examination of the C s' cargo, and 

friend Cooper's house was selected as the most conve- 
nient location for deposite, as well as for security. The 
lighter portion of the cargo had been landed, and a few 
days more would have accomplished its entire inspec- 
tion, when an extraordinary courier arrived with the 
intelhgence of the defeat of General Victoria, by the 
rebellious party. 

It seems that Victoria had placed implicit confidence 
in the faith of Don Pablo de Portilla, the " Coman- 
dante" at St. Diego, who had given him timely notice 
of the revolt, and had promised to co-operate with 
him in quelling the rebellion. For this reason, the 
General took with him but a few men ; and, pnly in 
consequence of the repeated solicitations of Pecheco, 
who had no faith in Portilla, would he consent to 
his going also, with a detachment of ten or a dozen 
more. 

On the 1st of December, 1831, a party of disaffected 
persons assembled together, and declared in favor of 
the late commander. General Echeandia. Don Pablo 
Portilla was appointed commander of the rebels. The 
charges of tyranny, and the unconstitutionality of Victo- 
ria's proceedings relative to the shooting of the Indians 



120 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

at Monterey, were sufficient to increase the rebel party 
in great numbers, as they marched to the " Pueblo de 
los Angeles," where they arrived and took possession of 
the town. The " Alcalde" was arrested, and with an 
additional force of more than one hundred men, ma- 
king in all about two hundred, they advanced to meet 
Victoria, whose force was only thirty men. 

The parties met, and the action commenced. Vic- 
toria, in advance of his troop, called upon Portilla to 
surrender. But no ! treachery said, never ! the poor 
General was deceived, but he was determined to be 
revenged, and, rushing sword in hand upon the rebels, 
he shouted his little troop forward. Pecheco was in- 
stantly killed from a cowardly shot in the back. Vic- 
toria, with savage fury, dealt his blows around, till, 
exultingly, he sheathed his sword in the body of one 
bold rebel, and stretched him on the plain. The others 
fled in every direction, and Victoria, triumphant, march- 
ed his little troop through the town to the mission of 
St. Gabriel, where, in consequence of loss of blood 
from wounds which he had received, he came to a halt. 
The valorous party whom Victoria had defeated, again 
rallied, followed him to the Mission, and demanded his 
surrender. The poor, weak, wounded soldier ! they 
feared him even in his disabled state, and kept aloof, 
until he had sent them word that he was willing to re- 
sign the command, and return to Mexico. Faithfully, 
he kept his word ; though numerous secret solicitations 
came from the north for his return. Arrangements 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 121 

had been made for his embarkation at St. Diego, 
should he yield ; and every temptation was held out for 
him to join his faithful adhereats at Monterey. But no ! 
he had passed his word ! and a retirement to the cloisters 
of Mexico was preferred to wreaking vengeance upon 
his enemies. He embarked for San Bias on board of the 
ship Pocahontas, in company with the Reverend Father 
Antonio Peyri, who, disgusted with the political changes 
in the country, had resigned his laborious duties as a 
missionary at the Mission of St. Luis Rey. I saw 
them both, only a few days previous to their departure, 
when the tear of regret coursed down the cheek of the 
good old friar, as he recalled to mind the once happy 
state of California. His great penetration of mind, led 
him to foresee the result of the new theory of liberty and 
equality, among a people where anarchy and confusion 
so generally prevailed, and who, at the time, were totally 
unprepared for, and incapable of self-government. He 
chose rather a retirement in poverty, than to witness the 
destruction and ravage that from this time ensued. 

This state of things rendered it necessary for me to 
repair to Santa Barbara, to look after our interests ; for 
we knew not what would be the result of this unfortu- 
nate change. The Plant had not arrived, and we were 
fearful that she might have been lost in the heavy gales 
off Cape Horn. 

The victorious party, now firmly established at " los 
Angeles," proceeded to form a new government, and the 
" Excelentisima Diputacion," by virtue of an act of the 

12 



122 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Legislature, named its oldest MiDister, Don Pio Pico, 
for Governor. Thus things were taking a pacific turn, 
when the news came, suddenly, of another '•' pronuncia- 
miento" at the north, declaring a non-recognition of the 
" new Government" and its acts ! 

Now commenced the downfall of the Missions ! 
Echeandia retreated to St. Juan Capistrano, Avhere he 
sought the co-operation of the Indians. His promises of 
liberty and land were sufficient to entice all from their 
labors, and caused the subsequent abandonment of their 
former pursuits. Rapine, murder, and drunkenness 
Avere the result ; and, in the midst, revelled the Mexican 
chieftain. 

About this period, the latter part of January, 1832, a 
small brig entered the desolate Bay of St. Pedro, and 
anchored. On the succeeding morning, two passengers 
were landed on the barren strand, and there left with 
two bottles of water and one biscuit, with nothing to 
protect them from the inclemency of the season. Here, 
more than thirty miles from any habitation, save a 
small hut two leagues o^, they passed a sleepless night. 
The casual stroll of an idle Indian in search of shells 
was the means of giving information to the Padre at 
St. Gabriel, where, through his kindness and sympathy, 
they found a cordial welcome. They were Messrs. 
Bachelot and Short, two Catholic priests, who, in con- 
sequence of their unpopular religion, had been forced 
to leave the Sandwich Islands, notwithstanding their 
protestations against the arbitrary measure. All re- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 123 

monstrances were useless ; they were insulted, driven 
on board, and the miserable craft was ordered to get 
^' under way" without delay. 

The ship California arrived from Monterey with 
G on board, who gave us intelligence of the de- 
parture of troops, under command of Don Augustin 
Zaniorano. They Avere on their way down the coast, 
to oppose the lower party, and would rendezvous at this 
town. Santa Barbara is the central position in Cali- 
fornia, and holds the balance of power between the 
north and south ; so that whatever side she favored, 
was sure to succeed. Thus she generally remained 
neutral in pohtical commotions, and acquired, in conse- 
quence, celebrity for her good and peaceable govern- 
ment. An old and experienced inhabitant, Senor N , 

who had in earlier years filled the highest station in its 
pohtical and military administration, still possessed a 
wonderful influence over his townsmen ; for nearly 
all had served under his command. His superior know- 
ledge and prudent management, ever kept them aloof 
from dangerous compromises ; and on this important 
occasion they were to take no interest with the oppo- 
sing parties. 

The California had gone south ; and as I sat writing 
one afternoon, my servant David passed through the 
room. I indulged for amusement, now and then, in 
a joke with him ; so I told him " to repair to the beach, 
and inquire of our superintendent, how near the Plant 
was ; for she had been seen that morning off Point Con- 



124 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ception !" Elated with the news which I liad jocosely- 
given him, he started off in good-humor, and at an hour, 
when I had almost forgotten the circumstance, he came 
back with the answer, " the brig was close to the Cas- 
tle Point, with a very light westerly wind." Dusk shut 
in, and the light of the moon revealed, shooting up 
above the western point of the bay, -he white, hght sails 
of a vessel. She came in and anchored ; it was late, 
and no communication passed with her that night, but, 
to carry on the joke, I ordered David to take my horse 
down for the captain early in the morning. When I 
arose at sunrise, David had gone, and I saw through 
my window a brig, indeed. Soon a horseman came 
galloping up the road and alighted at the door ; it 
was the captain, and the brig was the Plant ! This 
was joking in earnest, I thought, and too good a joke 
to be lost. She had been out over seven months from 
Boston, owing to stress of weather and the serious dam- 
age she had encountered off Cape Horn. The captain^ 
had put back to Rio de Janeiro for repairs, and this was 
the cause of her detention. Her arrival, however, was 
" better late than never," and we proceeded to Monterey 
to enter her cargo. A short passage of four days only 
brought us to her anchorage, and on the third after our 
arrival, owing to the cargo being small, the duties were 
speedily adjusted with the " Administrador " of the Cus- 
toms, and we again weighed anchor for San Francisco. 
Here we were detained but a short time, and returned 
to ^nta Barbara. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 125 

The army of Zamorano was liere, and its close prox- 
imity to the party in " los Angeles " caused the greater 
portion of the latter to seek shelter farther south. This 
position of affairs determined Don Augustin to continue 
on and gain possession of '• los Angeles," which he ac- 
complished by sending a force under command of Don 
Jose M^ Ybarra. The troops remained but a few days 
in the place, however, when they retreated to the Mis- 
sion of San Fernando. The cause of which, was a se- 
cret compromise of Zamorano with the party below. 

I proceeded at this crisis of the war to the Bay of St. 
Pedro, where, during my stay I received letters from 
Monterey announcing the arrival of the brig Newcas- 
tle, from Boston, via the Sandwich Islands, bringing 
news of the embarkation of troops for California ; whicli 
news had been carried thither from San Bias by the 
brig Ivanhoe. This was the cause of much alarm to 
Echeandia and his party, who were draining St. Juan, 
and the splendid Mission of St. Luis of their richest 
possessions. Daily reports were received of robberies 
and murders, committed by the Indians at St. Diego, 
who were in a wretched state. At the Mission, below 
that place, which is called St. Miguel, they revolted and 
attempted to kill the priest, but he defended himself 
within his house, with the assistance of two soldiers, 
and finally drove them off. They subsequently 
united with Echeandia's party. Stabbings were fre- 
quent at St. Juan and St. Luis ; and the drunken In- 

12* 



126 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

dian, as he staggered along from his scene of debauch 
ejaculated, " Soylibre !" '• I am free !" 

Having a large quantity of hides and tallow depos- 
ited at St. Barbara when the Plant arrived, with the 
collections acquired up to this time, I had more than 
sufficient to load her for home. We proceeded, there- 
fore, to carry into effect the necessary preUminaries, and 
soon the loading commenced. 

One afternoon, standing on the beach in company 
with some friends witnessing the embarkation of the 
hides, all at once the cry of " Sail ho !" was given by 
the crew, and looking towards the point of land project- 
ing from the fort, we saw a vessel under full sail, stand- 
ing into the bay. The beautiful symmetry of her 
spars, sails, and rigging, added to the elegance of her 
hull, her trim appearance, her sky-sails and man-of- 
war semblance, called forth a variety of remarks from 
the bystanders. "My eyes !" says Jack to his ship- 
mate, " isn't she a clipper ?" " See ! how she throws up 
the suds for'ard !" and as a gust of wind struck her 
sails, she lay over and displayed the smooth and bright 
appearance of her copper. " Look at her !" continued 
Jack ; " she's got a driver, I know, or those flying kites 
wouldn't be there !" At that moment a white smoke 
issued from her bow ; the kites disappeared, and the 
report of a cannon echoed up the vale ; sky-sails, roy- 
als, and top-gallant studding sails, all were taken in 
together ! ! and as the quick reducing of her canvass 
brought her to her top-sails, with jib and trysail, she 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 127 

slipped past the land like a duck upon the water ! 
" She's a splendid-looking brig, isn't she ?" says my 

friend R : " who can she be for ? Can she be a 

consort for the California ?" " I don't know," I replied ; 
'' but we will see as soon as she comes to anchor, if you 
like ; or, if you think proper, we will start now, and board 
her as she comes in." His assent to the proposition led 
us to the boat, which our boys immediately manned, 
and we started for the vessel. Ere we reached her, the 
swift movement, with which she came into port, had 
brought her to her place of anchorage, and as we pass- 
ed up her side, a tall, gentlemanly fellow came to the 

gangway- " My name is R ," said I, " and yours is 

" ii T ," said he, when a cordial conversation 

succeeded ; during which my friend was introduced, 
and we passed down into the cabiiL It was the brig 

Roxana, Captain F T , of Boston, which had 

been sent out, by our merchants, to co-operate with the 
California. I took my letters, together with those for 
G , and returned to the shore, that I might de- 
spatch inteUigence of the brig's arrival. A man was 
procured immediately to proceed to " los Angeles," and 
before sundown he was on his way, with the news. 

On the arrival of a new vessel from the United 
States, every man, woman, boy, and girl in the place 
took a proportionate share of interest as to the qualities 
of her cargo. If the first inquired for rice, sugar, and 
tobacco, the latter asked for prints, silks, and satins ; 
and if the boy wanted a " Wilson's cook knife," the girl 



128 LIFE IN <i:ALIFORNIA. 

desired that there might be some satin ribbons. T as, 
the whole population hailed with eagerness an arrival ; 
and even the Indian, in his unsophisticated style, asked 
for " Pafios colorados," and " Abalorios." " Red hand- 
kerchiefs" and "beads," 



CHAPTER IX. 

Another Cruise. — A " Ranchero's" Perplexity. — Pudding Sauce, not 
Soup. — A Backwoodsman.^Heavy Rains. — Marriage Ceremony. — 
Fiesta de Boda. — Carnestolendas. — Battle with Eggs. — Pddre Antonio 
and Friar Menendez. — A Severe Gale. — Dangerous Passage into San 
Francisco. — Safe Arrival. — General Jose Figueroa. — " Administra- 
dor"of the Customs, alias "El Pintilo.'' — Patriotism I — "Hanging 
On." — Narrow Escape from Shipwreck. — A Departure for Boston. — 
A Visit to the Farallones. — Seal Fishery. — Roadstead of St. Juan. — 
Seizure at San Francisco. — Drought. — Procession for Rain. 

Four days after the courier's departure with the 

intelligence of the new arrival, G had made his 

appearance at St. Barbara, and was on his way to 
Monterey, in the Roxana. The Plant Avas at anchor, 
still rolling to the swell ; and, as our crew slowly stowed 
on board, their daily quantity of hides, she gradually 
increased her draught of water. Three weeks passed 
away. The Roxana was here again, and the Plant 
ready for sea, bound to the United States, via the Sand- 
wich Islands. My quarters were, consequently, trans- 
ferred to the former, whose next place of destmation 
was the port of San Pedro. Both vessels got imder 
way ; but, owing to the difference of their destinations, 
there was very soon a considerable space between them ; 



130 • LIFE IN CALIFOUNIA. 

SO that ere many hours had elapsed, we beheld the last 
dip of the Plant's main royal in the distant horizon. 

The succeeding morning found us safely anchored at 
a long distance from the landing, fearing the S.E. 
gales which prevail at this season of the year. Re- 
ports were circulated that a new vessel with a new 
cargo had arrived, which brought great numbers of 
persons to the brig, when the usual scene of confusion 
ensued. Several '• Rancheros" were among our visitors, 
who had come from afar, to behold a " house upon the 
water." Whilst at dinner, we were particularly amused 
with their awkwardness, and when the pudding was 
served, it was looked at w4th astonishment. When the 
accompanying sauce was carried round, those who chose, 
added, with the assistance of the grater, a quantity of 
nutmeg. One of the "green ones," who had carefully 
watched this operation, in his turn seized the grater, and 
commenced rubbing with his thumb nail upon the in- 
dented surface ; not succeeding by the apphcation of his 
thumb, he paused ; and from the general smile of the 
others, who were witnessing his perplexity, he began to 
think there was something wrong ; so, looking towards 
me, he said, " Como es que yo no saco nada ?" " How 
is it that I do not get anything ?" I explained the mat- 
ter to him, and told him to examine within, where he 
would find the source, w^hence the others had obtained 
the aromatic material. However, this is not quite so 
good a joke, as I learned took place afterwards, on board 
of another vessel, which I will insert here to compare 






LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 131 

witL the story of tlie nutmeg. It was on a glorious 
fourth of July, and the day was observed with due fes- 
tivity and rejoicing on board of the , from the 

Sandwich Islands. At dinner there was a great assem- 
blage of guests from the neighboring farms of St. 
Francisco ; when a large bowl was used for holding 
the pudding sauce, which, at the proper time, was in- 
troduced, and handed to the nearest one who had ta- 
ken pudding. Liking its appearance, he took the bowl 
from the steward, returned his plate, and with his spoon, 
soon made a finish of the whole. This accomphshed, 
smacking his lips, he said, " due caldo tan bueno ! 
due lastima! que no lo trageron antes de la carne." 
" What good soup ! What a pity that they did not 
bring it before the meat !" It is needless to say that the 
rest were obliged to eat their pudding without sauce. 

Among our own countrymen, who had lived all their 
lives in the Western Prairies, till a taste for emigra- 
tion had brought them here, we had occasional op- 
portunities to witness a want of experience and culti- 
vation, that in many cases did not fall far behind the 
ludicrous behavior of the rude Californians. 

Whilst lying here, the small schooner U ar- 
rived ; and, owing to her light draft of water, she was 
enabled to run into the creek, previously spoken of in 
the description of St. Pedro. Whilst at anchor there, 
she was visited by several Americans, detached follow- 
ers of a hunting expedition. One of them had never 
before seen "salt water," and nothing nearer the sem- 



132 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

blance of a vessel, than a common Indian canoe. He 
embarked with great fear and distrust, and the smell 
of the sea, with the boat's motion, had probably made 
him sick. Stepping upon deck, he staggered against 
the main-mast. " Gory ! how she totters !" said he : 
" if it hadn't been for that are post, I should have fell 
down." 

The same person afterwards ventured to come on 
board the brig, by sitting himself down in the bottom 
of the boat, and holding with his hands upon each side 
of the gunwale. When he ascended to the deck, he 
required assistance, and the sailors were called to hoist 
him in, like a bag of tallow. However, not long after 
this, he had courage to embark upon the "boisterous 
ocean" in a small, pine board canoe, to hunt the sea ot- 
ter ; and many a time, that would have made the stout- 
est seaman quail, he heeded not the storm. In hke 
manner, probably, the Cahfornian learned the use of 
nutmeg, and that pudding sauce was not soup. 

While lying at anchor in San Pedro, we were fre- 
quently obliged to slip our chain and put to sea, to 
avoid the S.E. gales ; during one of which, a Mex- 
ican schooner was wTecked on the island of Cata- 
Una. She had been taken into one of the harbors, 
for the purpose of " heaving out." When the gale com- 
menced, she was unprepared to get under way, and 
soon a heavy swell rolled in, which drove her on the 
rocks. 

Leaving St. Pedro, we returned to Santa Barbara, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. -^ 133 

when, the day previous to the one which I had appointed 
for saihng, a southeast wind set in, with rain, which 
lasted ten days. The brig was obhged to get under 
way, immediately, and was driven to leeward so far, 
that she was not seen again at her place of anchorage 
for two weeks. 

Oftentimes, at this season, I have known it to rain 
unceasingly for a week, and sometimes, so furiously as 
to wash down the mud houses. Near the suburbs of 
the town is a ravine, leading from the mountains to the 
beach, which I have seen filled to its margin, carrying 
down large trees by the force of the current. 

During my detention here, the wedding of D. Man- 
uel Jimeno with Doiia Maria de las Angustius de la 
Guerra, daughter of Sr. Don Jose Antonio de la 
Guerra y Noriega, took place. On this occasion the 
bridegroom neither had an opportunity of appropria- 
ting the services of an experienced steward, nor had 
he a vessel to which he could repair, and make use 
of her choicest stores, as has been facetiously sta- 
ted, in a popular work, to have been done by a foreigner 
who subsequently married a sister of the bride ; but 
he had a brother, the director of the mission, who 
was determined to outdo all that had ever been 
known in California. On the marriage eve, the bride 
went with her father to the mission, dressed in her 
usual church costume, which was deep black ; where 
the joining of hands took place towards morning, and, 
at a later hour, the church ceremonies were performed. 

13 



134 LIFE ir^ CALIFORNIA. 

Breakfast was served with considerable taste, a task to 
which the worthy friar was fully competent. At its 
'conclusion the bride and bridegroom were escorted to 
the house of her father. Padre Antonio had made 
his Indians happy by distributing presents among 
them ; and many of the younger ones, well attired for 
the occasion, joined in the procession. They ap- 
proached the town without any regular order, until 
arriving almost within its precincts ; when, under the 
direction of the friar, they formed and marched in the 
following manner. First came the military band, con- 
sisting of about twenty performers, who were dressed in 
a new uniform of red jackets trimmed with yellow cord, 
white pantaloons made after the Turkish fashion, 
and red caps of the Polish order. Then followed the 
bride and bridegroom, in an open English barouche, ac- 
companied by the sister of the former. After these, in 
a close carriage, came Don Jose and Father Antonio ; 
in another, the Madrina and cousin ; and lastly, num- 
bers of men and women on horseback. Guns were 
fired, alternately, at the mission and in the Presidio, until 
their arrival at the house, to the '• fiesta de Boda." At 
one o'clock a large number of invited guests sat down 
at a long table, to partake of an excellent dinner. The 
married couple were seated at the head with the father 
spiritual on the right, and the father temporal on the 
left. Dinner being over, part of the company retired to 
their homes, whilst some of the younger adjourned to a 
booth, which was prepared in the courtyard, sufficiently 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 135 

large to contain several hundred people. Here they 
danced a while, and then retired. Early in the even- 
ing, people, invited and uninvited, began to fill up the 
booth, and soon, dancing commenced. The music con- 
sisted of two violins and a guitar, on which were per- 
formed many beautiful waltzes and contra dances, to- 
gether with a great number of local melodies. During 
the evening all took active part in the amusement, and 
as the poorer classes exhibited their graceful perform- 
ances, the two fathers, from an elevated position, threw 
at their feet, silver dollars and doubloons. The " Fan- 
dango," which has been fully explained in a previous 
chapter, lasted until the morning light appeared, ac- 
companied with all the variety customary on such oc- 
casions. 

On the next day. Father Antonio, as a further com- 
pliment to the bride, had dinner prepared in the corridor 
of the Mission — the table reaching from one end to the 
other, and the place being adorned with flags. Here all 
the town was invited to participate, when old and 
young, rich and poor, lame and bhnd, black and white, 
joined in the feast. For several succeeding nights the 
'• Fandango" was repeated at the booth, and they had 
enough of feasting and dancing intermingled with the 
amusements of the " Carnes tolendas" to last them for 
some time. 

The usual season for '• Carnes tolendas" is during 
the three days previous to Ash Wednesday, but here 
they commence two weeks earlier. Whilst these 



136 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

amusements last, it is dangerous for one to go into a 
house where he is acquainted, for he is liable to be 
well drenched with Cologne or scented water. This 
is accomplished by the following preparatory process. 
As many eggs as may be required, are emptied of 
their contents, by perforating a hole at each end, 
through which they are blown by the mouth. The 
shells are afterwards immersed in a large basin of pre- 
pared essences, with which they are partly filled, and the 
holes then sealed with wax. Thus made ready, they 
are broken upon the heads of individuals ; but it must 
be understood, that this is only done where great inti- 
macy exists between the parties. Oftentimes invita- 
tions are given for a select company to assemble at a 
specified place, when all attend at the time appointed 
" armed and equipped" for a battle with the eggs. On 
such occasions, as tlie excitement grows warm, and their 
ammunition becomes nearl}^ exhausted, they resort to 
wet napkins, which they slap at each other. From 
these they have recourse to tumblers of water; from 
these to pitchers, and from pitchers to buckets, until, tired 
and exhausted by the exercise, they desist. 

During the continuance of the marriage festival spo- 
ken of, one of these frolics was held at the house of 
the bride. Among the persons invited were the Pa- 
dres Antonio and Menendez ; at the close of the even- 
ing, when btickets were in constant requisition, the two 
friars became heated, and attacked each other with 
floods of water. Menendez, the weaker of the two. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 137 

retreated to an adjoining dormitory and closed the 
door. Padre Antonio, urgent to follow up the attack, 
pursued him ; when Menendez, seeing no means of es- 
cape, seized from beneath the bed an article, oftener 
used than mentioned, and let it fly, contents and all, full 
into the face of Padre Antonio, who had just appeared 
at the door. The consequences were, the loss of two of 
the poor friar's front teeth, and a conclusion of the 
fun. 

Immediately after the Roxana's return I embarked, 
and we sailed for the port of St. Francisco. As is usual, 
after a S.E. gale subsides, a strong S.W. wind set in. 
Twenty-one days afterwards, when in the latitude 
of Port Bodega, whither we had been carried by ad- 
verse winds, Ave were obliged to heave to, 'and lay more 
than forty-eight hours drifting directly upon the land. 
Had the wind continued twenty-four hours longer, we 
should have been driven on the coast ; but it hauled 

to the west, and Captain T ordered sail to be 

made, and the vessel was kept away for the Faral- 
lones. Five hours brought us to these islands ; a 
short distance from them and the main, the sea was 
covered with white foam, tumbling and breaking in 
every direction. It was fearful to look at ; and the cap- 
tain, somewhat doubtful as to the propriety of attempt- 
ing a passage through, turned to where I stood gazing 
upon the scene, and said, " What do you say, squire, 
shall we go it ?" " As you please, sir," I replied. In a 
moment the brig's bow became enveloped in foam ; a 
13* 



138 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

heavy comer came inboaid, rushing over spars and bul- 
warks, and furiously passed her sides. On we sailed. 
Another and another sea came rolling behind us, seem- 
ingly disposed to sw^eep our decks. The orders of the 
captain as he cried " Steady !" to the man at the helm, 
with the exception of the noise of the agitated bil^ 
lows, were all the sounds that met my ear. At 
length a heavier roller struck her stern ; but its force 
was spent, ere it reached us, and it harmlessly washed 
upon the deck. I jumped to the rigging, and there I 
remained firmly fixed, until our approach to smoother 
seas. We passed safely through the danger, and ar- 
rived at our place of anchorage ; but had the vessel un- 
fortunately broached to, when in the worst part of the 
passage, we must have been seriously injured. The 
cause of so much sea was, the length of time that the 
wind had blown so heavily from the southward and 
westward. This is not often the case, but when it 
does happen, the sea is soon calmed by the counter ope- 
rations of the northerly winds. 

The inclement season of the year caused us conside- 
rable detention, it being difficult to procure our hides 
from the missions, for the roads were almost impassable. 
We were at length, however, enabled to proceed to Mon- 
terey, where to our surprise we found a new order of 
things ill governmental affairs. The new General had 
arrived. "Sr. General de Brigada D. Jose Figueroa, Co- 
mandante general y Gefe politico de la Alta Cahfornia ! !'* 
He embarked at Acapulco, in the Mexican brig Catahna. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 139 

accompanied by his officers and soldiers, and on his way 
touched at St. Bias to take eleven missionaries, who 
were from the College of Zacatecas. While at Mazat- 
lan, where he had stopped for some military stores, 
the brig w^as struck with lightning, which passed along 
her mainmast into the hold, and set fire to some articles 
which were stow^ed near the powder. The fire was for- 
tunately extinguished. While stopping at Cape St. 
Lucas, the troops revolted, and declared for St. Anna, 
who was then in arms against the government. They 
took possession of the vessel, and, leaving the general 
and friars at St. Lucas, obhged the captain to proceed to 
St. Bias, where they remained. On the passage, the 
military chests were broken open, and the money dis- 
tributed amongst the soldiers and crew. The captain, 
after recruiting his vessel returned to St. Lucas, w^here 
the general, with the few faithful officers and soldiers, 
who remained with him, together with the friars, re- 
embarked, and arrived at their destination in January, 
1833. 

He assumed his authority at a period, when anarchy 
and confusion Spread throughout the country. The su- 
preme government of Mexico had ^entirely disapproved 
of the conduct of Echeandia and Padres, and ordered 
Figueroa, in case he should find that the scheme of 
secularization had been carried into effect, to suspend 
the operation, and restore the Missions to their former 
state. 

A new " Administrador" of the Customs had also ar- 



140 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

rived, and was already put in possession of his office. 
His name was Don Raphael Gonsalez, alias " el Pin- 
tito ;" as well calculated to discharge his duties, as 
he was to navigate a steamboat through the Straits 
of Magellan ! A vessel with a small cargo had lately 
arrived, and the invoice was handed to "Pintito" 
for inspection, in which, where a repetition of either 
cases or bales occurred, the word iden was substituted, 
signifying ditto. After puzzling his brains for a con- 
siderable time, lie inquired of the supercargo the char- 
acter of the goods called " iden.'^ This example must 
be sufficient to convince any one of his incapacity. 

His wife was taken, as a specimen of Mexican beau- 
ty, to figure in the wild woods of California ; but, how 
great must have been the surprise of both husband and 
wife, to find that she was by no means the fairest of 
the fair ! A daughter had blessed their happy union, a 
lively, dark-eyed girl, who had married a youth, more 
for his comely features than for his manly virtues. 
This was Don Jose Maria Castanares, the acting sec- 
retary to his respected father-in-law. The new " Ad- 
ministrador" was a plain-looking man, rather spare, 
with Indian features, but possessing very polite and af- 
fable manners. 

Accomplishing our business in two days, I took leave 
of the new comers and my friends, and proceeded down 
to St. Barbara. At the time of my first embarkation in 
the Roxana, my friend G sailed in the ship Cal- 
ifornia 10 St. Diego, where he was to superintend the 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 141 

Stowage of hides, for she was to load for home, and to 
return afterwards to St. Barbara, to take on board a 
few more which we had collected there. Sufficient 
time had elapsed for this, and I looked daily for her ar- 
rival. 

Whilst lying at St. Barbara, waiting, we heard of 
a circular wiiich had been issued by Figueroa, grant- 
ing pardon to all those who took part in the revolution 
against Sr. Victoria. Echeandia had retired to San 
Diego, to prepare for his return to Mexico. What a 
scourge he had been to CaUfornia ! What an instigator 
of vice ! " Hombre de vicio," as he was called. • The 
seeds of dishonor sow^n by him will never be extirpated 
so long as there remains a Mission to rob, or a treasury 
to plunder ! If Mexico, in her zeal for the welfare of 
her territories, had been more circumspect in the choice 
of officers for California, she would not have experienced 
the humiliation that she has borne, nor incurred the ex- 
pense of so many expeditions to reconquer it. Her own 
people have been in all cases the fomenters ; and here, 
as has been frequently done in Mexico, they have aim- 
ed at the removal of certain governmental officers, not 
so much for the desire of reform, as for the division of 
the spoils ! This is the pretended patriotism of all Mex- 
icans who have taken active part in revolutionizing 
their own country, and w^hich has been disseminated 
by them amongst the Californians, till, like themselves, 
they have become " Patriotas de bolsa !" The cause 
of such ungovernable desires may be traced to their 



142 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

education, and to the indolent manner in which they 
have been reared. Thus we may trace its origin to the 
time when Spain held sway over the American repub- 
hcs ! to the old Spaniards, who, whilst rolling in 
wealth, indulged in excessive indolence. This trait 
of character still exists among their descendants, and 
you might as well expect a sloth to leave a tree, 
that has one inch of bark left upon its trunk, as to 
expect a Californian to labor, whilst a i^eal glistens 
in his pocket ! 

But I will leave these reflections and continue my 
narration, from St. Barbara. We proceeded to St. Pedro. 
When nearly opposite St. Buenaventura, a sail was ob- 
served between the small islands which have been pre- 
viously described, and the point of land which makes out 
below the Mission. As Vv^e neared each other I saw it 
was a ship, and at last, distinctly discerned her to be the 
California. We kept away to speak her. Both vessels 

were hove to, with their maintopsails to the mast, G 

came on board with Captain C , and after arrang- 
ing certain business matters, which he had deemed 
necessary for my guidance, they took leave and re- 
turned to their ship. The sails were filled, a good 
breeze favoured us, so that the California was soon 
out of sight, and we rapidly approached our place of 
destination. The wind freshened, and hauling to the 
N.E. from the land, gave us greater speed, so that 
during the night we had reached the western ex- 
tremity of the Bay of St. Pedro. A thick atmosphere 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 143 

rendered nearer approach to the land unsafe, and Cap- 
tain T concluded to " hang on " till morning-, be- 
tween the island of Catalina and the projecting point of 
the bay. Vessels, when not enabled to enter the bay at 
night, are obliged to keep under sail, beating to wind- 
ward, for should they heave to, they would be swept to 
leeward by the strength of the current. This is what 
is called " hanging on." 

At daylight, when the Roxana's course was shaped 
for the place of anchorage, another sail appeared in 

company, the barque C , of Boston, which was 

standing in also ; but Captain T , unwiUing to per- 
mit that she should come to, before his vessel did, hur- 
riedly dropped anchor near the point : not so the barque ; 
her more experienced captain, distrusting the appear- 
ance of the sky, ran by us, deep into the bay, hauled 
on a wind, and stood out again to sea. Her after sails 
were hardly braced round when a sudden gust of wind 
came rushing from the mountains. In a moment her 
topgallant sails were lowered, her courses rose, and the 
splashing waters, as they broke against her bows, told 
how swiftly she was borne on by the violence of the 
wind. Our situation was by no means comfortable, for, 
ere the topsails had been furled, a foaming sea gave no- 
tice of the approaching gust. Captain T saw at 

once the danger, regretted his imprudence, and the men 
were ordered to "bear a hand" with the sails. " Come 
down," said he, "come down from the yards!" "Man 
the windlass, Mr. L. ;" "jump forward there, men !" 



144 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

But another idea had struck him, which was put 
into execution in the " twinkhng of an eye." The 
brig lay tailing in (within a stone's throw) towards 
the beach. The swell increased, and as she plunged 
heavily into it, it broke in over her bows and came 
rolUng towards her stern. Our sails were still hanging 
from the yardarms, and their opposition to the wind, 
with the force of the swell, seemed urging us to the 
shore. " Avast heaving !" " Hold on, Mr. L. !" " Clap 
a buoy on the chain !" " Quick now !" " Move your- 
selves !" " Bear a hand, boys !" " Stand by the jib !" 
" Unshackle the chain !" " Let go !" " Hoist up the 
jib !" and running to the helm he shifted it to the 
other side, for his quick eye had observed her stern- 
way. The brig fell off finely. The topsails were 
sheeted home, and as our good little craft leaped over 
the seas, we shaved the land close, and sailed from the 
dangerous spot. 

This was only the commencement of trouble. We 
returned and anchored, but repeated storms obliged us 
frequently to get under way, till at last, having em- 
barked all that we could recover at this time from our 
" Pueblanos," we weighed anchor and proceeded back 
to St. Barbara. 

Preparations had been made for my return to the 
United States in the California ; a state-room had been 
fitted up, and Captain C. and I had often talked over 
the good times we should have on the voyage. The 
idea, however, was disagreeable to friend G . He 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 145 

did not like to remain alone in California, and proposed, 
in a letter which I received at the Pueblo, to write home 
for the ship's immediate return, and that I should aban- 
don the idea for the present ; so, during the passage 
from St. Pedro, I had an opportunity to think it over, 
as the Spaniards say, " despacio." 

Our passage was pleasant, and two days after the 
brig's departure from St. Pedro, we beheld the green 
hills and low-roofed houses of St. Barbara. A light 
air kept our sails flapping till mid-day, when the sea 
breeze set in, and a half hour's sailing brought us to 
the anchorage. We anchored close along side of the 

California. G came immediately to the brig, and 

we started for the shore. His first inquiry was rela- 
tive to my decision. A short conversation on the sub- 
ject ensued, when I acquiesced in his proposition — 
therefore, my return to the United States was post- 
poned, and although five years had elapsed since I took 
leave of Boston, by this decision I debarred myself of 
the pleasure, for three years longer, of seeing my rela- 
tives. Friend G was satisfied, and I partially rec- 
onciled to the detention. In a few days our business 
was completed, so that the California was enabled to 
sail. 

About the first of April, 1833, the ship started for 
the United States. Her chain-plates dragged through 
the water, from the weight of her cargo, and yet 
she moved along with as much life and speed, as 
did the generaUty of vessels in ballast trim. The 

14 



146 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

breeze was fresh, and I watched her from the door of 
my house, till, like a small speck, she was seen 
indistinctly with the naked eye, when I caught at a 
telescope, and looked, and looked — till the speck was 
gone ! and thus vanished my ideas of return to Bos- 
ton ! 

Having in store part of a cargo for the Roxana, 
I thought it advisable to make a trip with her to 
windward, and then after procuring a few more hides 
at the south, to load her up and send her home. 

To carry this into effect, G embarked in the 

brig for St. Francisco, and I started to perform the 

journey by land. Arriving some time before G , I 

was enabled to have everything ready for the brig 
when she came into port ; so there was but Httle deten- 
tion this time at St. Francisco, and we sailed for Mon- 
terey. We got under way with a hght S.E. wind, 
which lasted during the day and night, and were drifted 
by the current within a very small distance of the 
largest island of the " Farallones." The weather be- 
came calm and pleasant, and the recollection of former 

scenes that passed through the mind of G , as he 

leaned over the rail, gazing at the rocks, determined 
him to visit his old sealing ground. The boat was 

prepared— G took a club to knock down a seal, 

should we see any, and I took my gun. Although 
many years had passed away, he had not forgotten the 
little cove where he used to land, towards which we pull- 
ed and landed upon the beach. The rocks w^ere covered 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 147 

with thousands of birds ; many of the young were 
taken by the sailors, and carried to the boat, whilst 
G and I ascended to the place where his dwell- 
ing formerly stood ; but. it had been invaded by the 
Russian sailors, who had used it for a turnip garden ! 
There remained, yet, some coarse buildings, which, 
a few years since, the Russians inhabited. At last 

w^e arrived at a place where G came to a halt ; 

grounded his long club as if it were a musket, and, 
like an old soldier on some battle-field pointing out 
the movements of an army as they occurred in some 
memorable engagement, he told of encounters and 
victories. " There," said he, " you see that high rock 
leading from one end of the island to the other?" 
"Yes." "Well, many a time I have crossed that 
place, with as many skins upon my back as I could 
wag under ! Here," continued he, " here, where this 
infernal turnip is growing, I had my trap to catch the 
small ground rats that infested the place. It was a 
half barrel sunk upright in the ground, so that one end 
was on a level with its surface — the head had a square 
hole cut in its centre, which was fitted with a trap-door, 
that would cant inwards from the shghtest touch. 
Well," continued he, "I have known it to be nearly 
filled in one night ! There, I have attacked more than 
twenty seals and killed them all but two ! and here," 
(as he took me to a little cove between two high cliffs,) 
" here I have knocked down hundreds ! But wait," 
said he, " there are two large fellows asleep. Now I 



148 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

will show you how I managed." I wanted to fire, but 
he said " No !" and carefully prepared to descend, so as 
to cut them off from the water ; but in the attempt his 
courage failed, and the seals escaped. He was not then^ 
what he was when monarch of the isle ! A short walk 
over the premises succeeded, and we returned on board 
to continue our voyage to Monterey. 

The wind set in from the N.W. — soon a stiff breeze 
followed, and before morning we were close under point 
Ano Nuevo. Here the brig lay to, for daylight, when 
we ran into the bay and anchored. The General 
having gone south with his troops, the place appeared 
deserted ; many had gone to their farms, and the streets 
were still as death. Fiom Monterey, we went down 
the coast, landed our collections at Santa Barbara, and 
continued our course for St. Pedro and St. Juan. We 
anchored at the latter place during the month of June, 
at a time when no danger is to be apprehended from 
the S.E. gales, and just to the southward of a high 
projecting point of land, where, at low water, several 
large rocks were seen close under the brig's stern. 
Landing on the beach was usually very dangerous, 
and at this time it needed all the skill of the helmsman 
to keep us from a drenched skin. There are two points 
for embarking cargo : one is where the hides are taken 
directly to the beach, and the other, where they are 
thrown down upon it from a high cliff. Leaving St. 
Juan, we returned to Santa Barbara, loaded the brig, 
and despatched her to the United States. 



LIFE IN CALIB^ORNIA. 149 

About this time, the schooner L , from the Sand- 
wich Islands, was seized at St. Francisco, and notwith- 
standing she had passed the " Aduana" at Monterey, 
all her cargo was taken on shore, together with her sails, 
and detained for a long time. The vessel was after- 
wards given up, but her cargo had sustained much 
damage, and there was a great deficiency in her stores. 

Time passed away rapidly. The year was nearly at 
a close. The season for rain had set in, but as yet 
none had fallen. The hills and fields were parched 
by the heat of the sun, and all vegetation seemed 
partially destroyed. Every one cried for rain ! One 
wished it for his corn, another for his beans, another for 
his wheat, and all for their pasturage, the scarcity of 
which w^as Ukely to cause trouble among their cattle. 
At this important crisis, the holy father of the mission 
was besought, that the " Virgin de nuestra Senora del 
Rosario" might be carried in procession through the 
town, \tliilst prayers and supplications should be ofl'ered 
for her intercession with the Almighty in behalf of their 
distress. This w^as comphed w ith. as was customary on 
such occasions, and conducted in the following manner. 
First, came the priest in his church robes, who, with a 
fine clear voice, led the Rosary. On each side of him 
were two pages, and the music followed ; then, four fe- 
males, who supported on their shoulders a kind of lit- 
ter, on which rested a square box containing the figure 
of the Holy Virgin. Lastly, came a long train of 
men, women and children, who united in the recital of 
14* 



150 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

the sacred mysteries. The figure was ornamented 
for the occasion with great finery, and every one who 
pleased, had contributed some rich ornament of jewehy 
or dress, for its display. In this manner, they proceeded 
from the church, through the town, to the beach*; 
chaunting verses between the mysteries, accompanied 
by violins and flutes. From the beach, they returned 
to the church in the same order, when the prayers 
were concluded. 

After this performance, all looked for rain with as 
much faith as our countrymen look for the steamer 
from Liverpool on the thirteenth or fourteenth day af- 
ter her time of departure ! Should their expectations, 
however, not be realized, the procession would be re- 
peated until they were ! 



CHAPTER X. 

Dividing of the Missions. — Sporting at Santa Barbara. — .Arrival of the 
Ship " California."— Accident to G. — Supposed Revolution arj' Designs. 
— Rumors. — Determination of the Priests. — Destruction of the Mis- 
sions. — A new Appointment. — Arrival of the Colonists. — Seiior Hijar. 
— Plan of the Colonists. — Appointment of " Administradores" to the 
Missions. — Death of Figueroa. — Proceedings of the " Excelentisima 
Diputacion." — Burial of Figueroa at Santa Barbara. — A new Gov- 
ernor. — His Disgrace. — Nicoleis Gutierrez.— Disturbance at Monterey. 
— Juau B. Alverado. — A Bold Tennessean. — Surrender of the Mexi- 
cans. — Declaration of Independence. — Its Consequences in Mexico. 

About this period of my narration the jurisdiction 
of the missions was divided ; and one half of them were 
deUvered over to the " Padres" from Zacatecas. Their 
division would either comprise all the establishments at 
the northward of St. Miguel, or all those south of St. An- 
tonio. To determine which, Father Narciso Duran, the 
President, proposed that the decision should rest upon his 
brother missionaries and be determined by ballot. In 
this way the rich and fertile missions at the north, fell 
to the management of the new friars. 

With sorrowful hearts they were given up ; and their 
former directors were located at other parts of the terri- 
tory. Father Narciso settled at St. Barbara, where he 



152 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

has since remained an active distributer to the tempo- 
ral, as well as spiritual wants of his people. 

Whilst G and myself remained as temporary 

residents on shore, no particular occurrence transpired, 
excepting" an occasional robbery, or murder, at the 
south ; for still the missions in that quarter were un- 
settled, and hardly a day passed without some new act 
of violence occurring. 

A white man was stabbed by a black fellow ; but this 
being considered only an ordinary occurrence, no notice 
was taken of it. A sergeant of artillery who had cut 
the throat of his comrade, was put on board the 
barque Leonor, bound to St. Bias. There being no 
constituted tribunal here to take cognizance of the 
deed, the villain was sent to Mexico, where, the proba- 
biUty is, he was promoted, and will be ordered back to 
commit more murders ! This has been too often the 
case, and the assassinj emboldened in consequence, hesi- 
tates not to kill, when he feels it indispensable to his pur- 
pose. What is most astonishing, is, why the Indian 
does not take example from his Mexican brethren, and 
like them, kill and plunder. Thanks to the worthy 
missionaries, who have taught him and made him 
superior to those of higher pretensions to civilization I 

To pass away the time, we frequently went out 
into the neighboring woods, or along the creeks in 
quest of game ; of which we always succeeded in ob- 
taining large quantities, so that our larder was ever 
well stocked with ducks, geese, rabbits, quail, and some- 



^- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 153 

times a fat deer. A large pond, called " las salinas," 
situated at the base of a thick wooded hill, was our fa- 
vorite retreat, where, under cover of the trees, we 
waited the coming of the ducks. 

On one of these excursions, we rode to the en- 
trance of the wood, and leaving our carriage, walked 
through the narrow pathway leading over the hill, to 
the further extremity of the pond. Having remained 

later than usual, G was anxious to return, and 

proposed our leaving ; but I wished to have one more 
shot, and told him if he would go slowly along, I would 
overtake him by a short cut over the hill. He started, 
therefore, taking his course along the pond's margin. 
After he had been absent some time, I followed, 
as I had promised. Arriving at the carriage, I saw 
nothing of G , and supposing he must have con- 
tinued his way to the house, jumped in and drove oif. 
The road was along a hard, sandy beach, over which 
the horse trotted well. Not overtaking him, and see- 
ing nothing of him ahead, 1 began to fear I had left 
him behind ; yet, I had remained a long while at the 
pond, and certainly he had had more than sufficient 
time to reach the carriage. Thus I reasoned, as I 
looked behind me, and then whipped up the horse to 
urge him forward. On I drove, faster and faster, un- 
til reaching the house, where Daniel was standing, 
as usual, at the door. I enquired if G had re- 
turned. The answer was, " No ! he had not been 
seen. The fact was now revealed — he was be- 



154 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

hind ! I would have returned to meet him, but knew 
not which route he would take, there being two or 
three that led to the town ; and, while resolving what 
to do, I saw him with his hunting-coat over one arm, 
and hat in hand, coming towards the house. As 
he entered he threw them down, upon the floor, and 
waited patiently for explanation ; and the perspiration 
rolled down his face in streams whilst listening to my 
story, which he would not credit. He insisted that it 
was done intentionally, for he saw me look behind sev- 
eral times, and the more he waved with his handker- 
chief, the faster I drove. He never believed otherwise, 
nor could be convinced but that I intended it as a joke ! 
Some time after this, whilst the ship L , of Bos- 
ton, was lying at anchor here, I saw a sail one morn- 
ing in the passage way, between the island of Santa 
Cruz and another smaller island east. CaUing to 

G , I said, " Here comes the California ! It must 

be she, for there is no vessel, that I am aware of, at any 
port south." The glass was brought to bear im- 
mediately upon the stranger, when we were both well 
satisfied of her being a ship, at least. She kept standing 
in towards the anchorage, and at noon, we made her 
out an American vessel. As the wind increased, she 
approached faster, until at length we saw distinctly the 
house on deck, and her painted ports. Towards sun- 
down, she stood close into the kelp that floats near the 
beach, and then tacked ship to the south, off* shore ; be- 
ing much below the place of anchorage. As she filled 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 165 

away on the other tack, the sun struck brilliantly on 

her broad painted waist, when G exclaimed, " It 

is a sloop of war !" She stood off thus a while, then 
made another stretch in, and as there was a prob- 
ability of her soon reaching the anchorage, I accom- 
panied Mr. S , of the L , to the beach. He 

had just returned from a visit to the Mission, and 
kindly invited me to his ship, to see the stranger. 
When w^e arrived on board, our new comer was 
standing in, with a very hght breeze, which, from its 
scantiness, compelled her to pass some distance off, and 

anchor astern. Captain B , of the L , went, 

in his boat, alongside and returned ; but I could 
obtain no satisfactory information respecting her from 
him, for he, ever full of fun, proclaimed her " A New 
York ship, with the yellow fever on board — put in, 
in distress." Shortly, a boat shoved off from the vessel, 

came alongside, and Captain A , of the California, 

was soon on deck, squeezing my hand ; and I hastened 

to take leave of our friends of the L , that G 

might be convinced of his mistake ; for the new comer 
was not the " sloop of war " he took her to be ! Her 
prompt return from Boston w^as gratifying to both 

G and myself, and we joyfully went to work 

preparing her cargo. To enter into all the particulars 
of the voyage would be but to repeat, in a great 
measure, that which has already been described ; for 
this reason, I shall confine myself to other more impor- 
tant events. 



1^6 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

As before with other vessels, we repau'ed to Montereyj 
entered the ship, and regulated the duties on her cargo 
with our friend " El PintitoJ^ One afternoon, whilst 
at his office arranging our papers, some necessary for- 
mality rendered it important that one of the papers 
should have the signature of the " Sub Comisariay I 

took it to go to the office, but G said to me, " No ! 

you remain here, and I will go with the paper." He 
had been absent but a short time, when a messenger 

came running in, with the intelligence that G had 

been bitten terribly in the leg, by a large dog that w^as 
chained at the door. The necessary remedies were im- 
mediately applied, but it was a long time before he could 
walk. 

The bay presented a lively scene at this time, being 
filled with a kind of small fish called " Sardinas," thou- 
sands of which, in endeavoring to escape from the pur- 
suit of larger fish, were cast upon the beach. These at- 
tract a multitude of birds that devour them, on shore and 
in the water. Numerous whales feed upon them also, 
and constantly play about the ship. At times these 
enormous creatures will raise themselves almost entirely 
out of the water, and fall into it again with, great force. 
While preying upon this food, they are not unfrequently 
attacked by the sword fish and killer, when, like the 
sardinas, they are driven upon the beach to die. The 
Indians, during this yearly visitation, may be daily seen 
up to their knees in the surf, with their nets, which are 
easily filled, and thus the inhabitants are supplied with 



• X 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 167 



provision, and at night bears come from the woods, 
heralded by the howHng of wolves, and the barking 
of coyotes. It is a merry siglit, to behold, on a bright 
sunny day, the joy of the Indians, at the landing-place, 
as they scoop with their nets — the leaping of the sil- 
very fish that are thrown upon the rocks — the darting of 
the birds, and the splashing of the water as they pounce 
upon their prey — the jumping porpoise — the spouting 
whale, all of which attract hundreds of spectators to the 
beach, and keep them there for hours beholders of the 
scene. 

Departing from this place w^e proceeded to San Fran- 
cisco, thence south as far as St. Diego, and back to Mon- 
terey. During the trip there were but few occurrences 
of note, and soon after its accomplishment the ship 
sailed for the United States. 

About the latter part of May, 1834, an important move- 
ment was made on the part of the Government, when 
the whole armed force of Monterey, under command of 
D. Nicolas Gutierez, was brought into active service, 
to quell a revolution, said to have been projected by two 
distinguished individuals at the south. The facts are 
these : Don Jose Noriega of Santa Barbara, for some 
time back had contemplated purchasing a large tract 
of land called " /S'mi," which was then in the possession 
of a dissolute person, named Rafael Pico. On a certain 
day, by agreement, the parties, interested, met at the 
Mission of St. Gabriel, to draw up the necessary doc- 
uments. For this purpose, several persons were re- 

15 



158 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

quired as witnesses. There was also in process, at the 
same time, an examination of the archives of the Mission, 
by Padre President Narciso, who was assisted by Norie- 
ga in the work, which required several days for its ac- 
complishment. A poor, ignorant fellow, a soldier, attach- 
ed to the Mission guard, having been witness to nearly 
the whole operation, suspected that some secret plan of 
conspiracy was forming against the government, and has- 
tened to the town of Angels with the information, which 
he privately imparted to the Alcalde. At this time a 
hrother-ln-law of Noriega filled this all-important sta- 
■ tion ; and another brother was there from Santa Bar- 
bara on a visit. No sooner had they received the intel- 
ligence, than all haste was adopted for the purpose of 
conveying the same to the Governor at Monterey. The 
brothers had long possessed vindictive feelings towards 
Noriega, in consequence of his opposition to the plan 
of secularization ; arid now an opportunity offered to 
gratify those feelings, and secure his banishment, to- 
gether with that of the good old Father Narciso. 
The brother, from Santa Barbara hastened his depart- 
ure, and on his route home, communicated the se- 
cret, in confidence, to Padre Bias ; who, in the gen- 
eral change in the locations of the priests, had been 
ordered, by Father Narciso, to the Mission of St. Bue- 
naventura. This friar had been censured by his 
Prelate, for unbecoming conduct, and he, therefore, .re- 
joiced at the information ; rubbing his hands with 
ecstacy, he offered to assist in getting the intelligence 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 159 

to Figueroa. Horses were furnished, and a son of the 
affectionate brother^ was despatched post-haste to the 
capital. In the meantime, our old President and Seiior 
Noriega returned to Santa Barbara. Several days had 
elapsed, when, early one morning, a friend tapped at the 
window of D. Jose, and asked admittance. He was 
the bearer of important intelligence, and announced the 
arrival of Gutierez with troops, who had come to take 
Noriega and Father Narciso prisoners, as being charged 
with revolutionary designs against the Government. 
The affair being examined into, they were honorably 
acquitted ; and subsequently, Figueroa made ample 
amends to the accused. 

For several years past a few evil-minded persons had 
sought the ruin of the Missions in California, by divi- 
ding their possessions among the Indians. Various de- 
crees had passed the Mexican Congress relative to their 
secularization, which were afterwards made null by 
counter resolutions. Here, in the territorial depart- 
ment, as I have before observed, the same eagerness 
was also manifested for their entire destruction ; and 
rumors were afloat that the determined spirit of Sr. 
Padres, and the love of enterprise in Sr. Bandini, 
the representative of California to the Mexican Con- 
gress, had formed another more effective scheme, for 
the ruin of these rich and flourishing establishments. 
The administration of Gomez Farias, as President of 
the Republic, was favorable to the plan ; and the pow- 
erful influence of Padres procured from his Excellency 



160 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

his sanction to an act of the Mexican Congress, passed 
on the 17th of August, 1833, entitled, " An Act, for the 
secularization of the Missions of the Californias ; for 
the colonization of both territories ; for the appointment 
of Sr. Don Jose Maria de Hijar 'Gefe politico' de la 
Alta CaUfornia, y Director de la Colonizacion." This 
movement would have been pohtics as well as advanta- 
geous, had it not been for other views, which time dis- 
closed. The Government, actuated by motives of in- 
terest for the progress and welfare of California, had ta- 
ken the grand enterprise under its protection ; and 
" Padres," delighted to see the realization of his favorite 
scheme so near its fulfilment, procured for himself the 
appointment of " Sub Director !" 

This intelligence, together with the instructions to 
Governor Hijar relative to colonization, &c., had been 
published in " El Diario del Govierno," and circulated 
throughout the Missions. It was sufficient to rouse the 
spirit of the holy missionaries, who had labored the 
greater part of their lives in fostering the interests of the 
Indians, and they determined to defeat, if possible, the 
scheme. If the property were to be destroyed they re- 
solved that the natives of the country should reap its 
benefits as long as it lasted, and from this time the 
work of destruction went on. 

At many of the establishments, orders were given for 
the immediate slaughter of their cattle ; contracts were 
made, with individuals, to kill them and divide their 
proceeds with the Missions. At St. Gabriel, the ruin 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 161 

was more perceptible than at other places, owing to the 
superiority of its possessions. Thousands of cattle were 
slain, for their hides only, whilst their carcasses remain- 
ed to decompose upon the plains. In this way, a vast 
amount of tallow and beef, was entirely lost. The ras- 
cally contractors, who were enriching themselves so 
easily, were not inclined to avail themselves of this op- 
portunity of so doing, to the fullest extent ; but, as it 
was, they secretly appropriated two hides for their por- 
tion, to one on account of the Mission. A wanton spirit 
of destruction seemed to possess them, co-equal with their 
desire for plunder, and they continued to ravage and lay 
waste. In like manner, other interests of the establish- 
ments were neglected by the missionaries, and gradually 
fell to decay. His Excellency, the Governor, was soon 
officially apprized of the appointment of Senor Hijar to 
the civil command in California, and that a multitude of 
persons, of both sexes, were to accompany him as colo- 
nists, to whom the pay of half a dollar a day was as- 
signed till their arrival, w4th a free passage, and main- 
tenance during the voyage. 

Figueroa immediately proceeded to appropriate a 
suitable spot for colonization, and departed for the Rus- 
sian establishment at Ross. He explored the adjoining 
country, where he made choice of a pleasant location, 
and placed there a small detachment of troops for the de- 
fence of the colonists. While returning to the capital, 
and before his arrival, he received an " ecstraordinario " 
from the supreme government, which had come all the 

15* 



162 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

way from Mexico by land. The tenor and purport of the 
communication was an order, from the Secretary of 
State, to the General, not to deliver up the civil command 
to Senor Hijar, but to continue the fulfilment of his 
duties as political governor — that Santa Ana had as- 
sumed the governmentjhaving displaced Gomez Farias. 
By the same conveyance he received the first informa- 
tion of the arrival of Hijar at the port of St. Diego, in 
the brig Natalia, where he had disembarked on the 1st 
of September, 1834, with a portion of the colonists. On 
the 25th of the same month, the Mexican sloop-of-war 
"Morelos" arrived at Monterey, with Sefior Padres, sev- 
eral new officers, and the remainder of the colonists. 

On account of the distance between Monterey and 
St. Diego, Senor Hijar did not arrive at the seat of gov- 
ernment till the 14th day of October. Figiieroa re- 
ceived him with public demonstrations of friendship and 
respect, and after the usual compliments and civihties had 
passed, he informed him of the recent communication 
from Mexico. Deprived of the political command, Hi- 
jar's* position as director of the colony was unimportant, 
unless aided by the possession of the missionary institu- 
tions. To this investment of power Figueroa was op- 
posed, which produced, much altercation between them, 
and a lengthy correspondence. 

The discussion caused considerable dissatisfaction 
among the colonists, who, in the ardour of their con- 
versation, made public many matters which, for their 
own honor, they ought to have withheld, for thus they 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 163 

revealed the plans of the "Compania Cosmopolitana," as 
they styled themselves. They possessed no capital to act 
upon, but the interests of the missions, which had been 
granted to them by government — that is, Gomez Farias 
authorized the appropriation of fourteen thousand dollars, 
payable in tallow, from the missions in Cahfornia, for the 
purchase of the brig "Natalia." An unjust project in- 
deed ! for no possible benefit could result from it to the In- 
dians. They told also, with the same publicity, that this 
" Compania" were to monopohze the whole commerce of 
the country ; placing at each mission and town, a house of 
deposit, and the necessary number of vessels, on the coast, 
for the importation of foreign and domestic goods, and 
for the exportation of the produce of the country. This 
was the object of the colonial expedition that had cost 
the country so many sacrifices ! Ihis was the aim of 
Seiior Padres, who had lavished all his strength to ac- 
compHsh it, and which was deserving of great merit ; 
evincing, as it did, a proof of his eminent patriotism ! 

The Nataha was driven on the beach while lying at 
Monterey, and dashed into thousands of pieces, and in 
a short time not a vestige of the wreck remained. Thus 
perished the commencement of their speculations, and 
they were left to the formation of other schemes. The 
Natalia was the vessel, on board of which, Napoleon 
made his escape from the island of Elba. 

The colonists were finally located at St. Francisco 
Solano, on the northern side of the port of St. Francisco ; 
where the spirit of anarchy and disorder paved the way 



164 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

for a revolution, to separate the political command from 
Figueroa, and place it in the person of Seiior Hijar ; 
but the plan was discovered and, fortunately, frustrated. 

An individual of the colony, who had been selected 
for a Commissioner, from Senor Hijar to the Mexican 
government, proceeded, in company with a friend, to 
the Pueblo de los Angeles, under pretence of embark- 
ing for Mexico; but the following official announce- 
ment of the " Ylustre Ayuntamiento" to the Governor, 
will show how false was the pretext. 

" Secretary of the Ylustre Ayuntamiento of the Pue- 
" bio de los Angeles." " An unorganized body of about 
" fifty persons from Sonora, seduced by the promises and 
"lies of Don Francisco Torres, and Don Antonio Apala- 
" tegui, have pronounced this morning in favor of a plan, 
" which I have the honor to transmit to your Excellen- 
" cy ; the purport of which, is for their own personal ben- 
" efit. They remained under arms until three o'clock in 
" the afternoon, when Don Juan Gallado, their agent, 
" presented himself at the ' Juzgado,' and delivered over 
" to the authorities, the persons of Torres aiid Apalategui, 
" who were immediately imprisoned." Now for the 
plan. 

" A multitude of citizens having assembled on the sev- 
enth day of March, 1835, to take into consideration the 
most convenient method to save the territory of Alta 
California from the evils which it had suffered, and was 
still suffering, under the administration of General Don 
Jose Figueroa, the following was considered : first, that 



LIEF IN CALIFORNIA. 165 

this chief has not complied with divers orders of the Su- 
preme Government of the Union, for the improvement of 
the inhabitants of this country ; that abusing their for 
bearance, he has exceeded the power given him by the 
laws, improperly assuming the political and military pow- 
er, contrary to the Federal system, and contrary to the 
express laws which prohibit this union of powers ; that 
by the law of secularization of the Missions he has made 
a scandalous monopoly, reducing their productions to an 
exclusive commerce ; suppressing the good faith of the 
" Excelentisima Diputacion," and causing them to regu- 
late to his caprice a general law ; that infringing on the 
privileges of " Comisarias,"^ he disposes of the soldiers' 
pay at his own will, without the knowledge of the "Gefe 
de hacienda," and without the formalities of the law, 
and regulations required in such cases. Secondly — -that 
the territorial " Diputacion" had no power to regulate 
or add a general law, as it had done with the secu- 
larization of the Missions. Thirdly — that, they have 
reached by gigantic strides a state of ruin, by the unau- 
thorized measures which have been taken for the seclu- 
sion of the Indians, and the distribution of their inter- 
ests ; and fourthly — that some Commissioners, either 
fiom their entire ignorance of the management of this 
class of negotiations, or by their malicious conduct, have 
endeavored to forward their own private interests, ruin- 
ing, in this manner, those of the Missions, to the notable 
injury of the Indians, who have acquired them by their 
own personal industry ; and they have agreed to the fol- 



166 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

lowing. Article 1st. Gen. Don Jose Figueroa is decla- 
red unworthy of the confidence of the public ; there- 
fore, the " Alcalde primero Constitucional" of the cap- 
ital will take pr(frisional charge of the pohtical gov- 
ernment of the territory, and Captain D. Pablo de la Por- 
tilla, as the senior officer, and next highest in rank, is 
called to the military. 2d. The measures taken by the 
territorial " diputacion'' respecting the regulating of the 
missions are declared null and void. 3d. The Rever- 
end Missionary Fathers will take exclusive charge of 
the temporal affairs of their respective missions, as they 
have done heretofore, and the Commissioners will de- 
liver to this religious order, their relative documents of 
administration. 4th. By the anterior article no obsta- 
cle will be made to the measures of the Director de la 
Colonizacion, that he may fulfil the instructions given 
to him by the Supreme Government. 5th. The present 
plan will be subject to the approbation of the General 
Government. 6th. The forces, which have pronounced 
for the plan will not leave their arms until they have 
seen realized the above articles, and they are constituted 
the defenders of the administration of justice, and its 
respective authorities." 

Although this revolution commenced and ended on 
the same day, in the " Pueblo de los Angeles," yet, in 
other places it continued to exist, fostered by the prin- 
cipal aspirants for power. Under the pretext of estab- 
lishing the colony, they endeavored to organize a force 
to support their pretensions. For this purpose they 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 167 

brought with them from Mexico, a quantity of arms 
and ammunition, which they concealed, but which were 
discovered in time to prevent mischief 

A country Uke Cahfornia, requires robust and enter- 
prising men — men accustomed to labor in the field, and 
to a life of simplicity and economy. The colony, under 
management of Hijar and Padres, was composed of. 
persons of every class, except that which would have 
been useful. Not one agriculturaUst was to be found 
among them. They were artists and mechanics, who 
had been allured by the accounts of those who were to 
reap the harvest of this speculation, and made to believe 
that they could soon enrich themselves, in idleness, in 
this rich and fertile country. There were to be seen 
goldsmiths, blacksmiths, carpenters, shoemakers, tailors, 
painters, printers, and musicians; all of whom could 
have gained an honest livelihood in their own country. 
Their disappointment led them into many difficulties^ 
and they were accused of revolutionary designs. Un 
successful attempts were made at different places, which 
finally resulted in the banishment vf them and their lead- 
ers to Mexico. They were embarked at St. Fiancisco 
on board of the Italian ship " Rosa," and subsequently 
transhipped at St. Diego on board of the American 
schooner " Loriot," bound to St. Bias. 

Although this scheme of Padres had been foiled, a de- 
nre for the accomplishment of the Mexican decree rela- 
ive to secularization, was frankly acknowledged by 
nany Californians. The " diputacion" " approxima- 



:^ 



M- 



168 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. ^ 

ted to the law'^ (as was observed by a member of that 
illustrious body), and administrators were appointed by 
them to look after the temporal affairs of the missions. 
Thus, many of those most interested, received appoint- 
ments, and were enabled to enrich themselves with the 
spoils. Many that were poor soon became wealthy, and 
possessors of farms, which they stocked with cattle. In 
this way the " Excelentisima Diputacion" placed in the 
hands of Seiior Figueroa these valuable institutions. 

The General did not long enjoy the resources thus 
given him. Harassed and tormented continually, by re- 
peated attacks of the missionaries and representations of 
the Indians, and perplexed by the disordered state of the 
country, his mind and body became diseased ; till at 
length, after a few months' sickness, he was brought to 
the grave. His death was unfortunate for the country ; 
for his mildness of character, added to a knowledge of the 
art of pleasing as well as governing, made him a proper 
representative to guide the Californians. At the time this 
solemn event transpired, the " Excelentisima Diputacion" 
was in session at Monterey ; when the following pream- 
ble and resolutions were offered by one of that august 
assembly. 

Preamble. 

" To perpetuate the memory of the departed Senor 
"General de Brigada D. Jose Figueroa, Comandante 
" General, y Gefe politico de la Alta California. Most 
* excellent Sir, — Our chief is dead ! The protector of j 







LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 169 



" the Territory — the father of our CaUfornia — our friend — 
"our adviser, General D. Jose Figueroa. The people 
" hover around his funeral couch, and with their eyes 
" fixed upon his inanimate corpse, become dumb, and 
" weep for the hero that death has laid low. The 
" mournful, the unhappy intelligence flies abroad ; . all are 
" afliicted, and plunged in one general sorrow. 

" The bell's doleful sound, and the loud report of ar- 
" tillery, bring forth tears from the heart. All is bitter- 
" ness — all is grief ! The Californians weep for a benef- 
" icent father, who has given an incalculable impulse to 
" their prosperity, and with unexampled diligence, with 
" constant and unparalleled exertions, contributed largely 
" to the public weal. For him, who extinguished the 
" flame of discord, and prevented this virgin land from 
" being sprinkled with the blood of its children ; — for him 
" who planted the olive of peace, and cultivated beneath 
^' its shade, those virtues which emanate from the loyal 
'' bosoms of these inhabitants ; — for him who gave secu- 
" rity and extension to agriculture, and protection to our 
" commerce j — for him Avho knew how to check anarchy, 
^•' when daringly it approached our peaceful shores ; — for 
" him who consoled the widow, shielded the orphan, suc- 
" cored the soldier ; — for him who protected merit and 
^'encouraged honor; — in one word, they weep for him 
" who labored to regulate our social order. Our foreign 
"friends testify, by their grief, their friendship and the 
" exalted sense which they had of his superior tact to gov- 
"em. The savage Indian, the child of the desert, 
• 16 



170 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

"shows in rustic manner that he also feels the loss. 
" The name of General Figueroa is repeated every- 
'• where ; his merits are spoken of, his political prudence ; 
"his zeal for the public good ; and the gift which he 
" possessed to captivate the will : his honor, his probity 
" were acknowledged by the people, who proclaimed him 
" an eminent patriot, and ' de hijo benemerito de la pa- 
" tria.' All praise and acknowledge the excellence of 
" General Figiueroa ; and shall not the ' Excelentisima 
" Diputacion' express how much it participates in this 
"sorrow? I see in the worthy members of which it is 
" composed, unequivocal proof of the pain caused by the 
" premature death of our beloved chief This sorrow is 
"just ; yes, it is just, it is laudable. Know all the world, 
"and see, that in ' Alta California,' true merit is appre- 
" ciated. And now, that we have at the foot of the al- 
" tar, whilst adoring the inscrutable dispensations of tlie 
" Almighty, implored his divine clemency for the man of 
" whom his omnipotency has deprived us ; and now that 
" we have contributed all the pohtical and miUtary funeral 
"honors due to his rank, let us give ('benemeritos Dipu- 
" tados') a public and eternal testimony of our gratitude 
" and love for General Figueroa ; let us perpetuate his 
" memory, and let us give to his obsequies all respect and 
"honor. Let us immortaUze his glory and our grati- 
" tude, and encircle his brow with a crown of ' siempre 
" viva.' Yes, — most excellent sir, listen, and please ap- 
" prove of the following propositions, or resolutions. 
1st. "The portrait of General D. Jose Figueroa shall 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. ' ^"^^ 

" be collocated in the Hall of Sessions of this ' Ex- 
"celentisima Diputacion,' in proof of the esteem 
" they bear for his distinguished merit. 

2d. "To perpetuate his memory, and the gratitude 
" of this Corporation, a durable monument shall 
^' be erected, with an appropriate inscription, in 
" one of the most public unoccupied sites in 
" the capital ; and to fulfil Avhich, the ' Ilustre 
" Ayuntamiento' shall be authorized to have its 
" sole direction and care. 

3d. " Three copies of these proceedings shall be 
" drawn. One shall be dehvered to the executors 
" of our beloved deceased General and Chief, an- 
" other copy transmitted to his widow and chil- 
" dren, and the third shall be passed to the print- 
" er, that it may be annexed to the ' manifesto^ 
'• of said General, which is now in course of pub- 
"lication. Monterey, 9th of October, 1835. 

" Juan B. Alvarado." 

These resolutions were adopted, and were followed by 
two others, offered by the Secretary. 

1st. " That the three resolutions of Senor Alvarado 

" shall be put into execution immediately. 
2d. " That at the bottom of the portrait of Senor 
" General D. Jose Figueroa, shall be affixed the 
" title of«' Bienhechor del territorio de la Alta Cal- 
"ifornia. Monterey, Oct. 14th, 1835. 

"Manuel Jimeno." 



172 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

The foregoing- document was placed before the " Ilus- 
tre Ayuntamiento," who contemplated placing upon the 
monument the following inscription : 

THE PROVINCIAL DEPUTATION 

AND THE " ayuntamiento" OF MONTEREY, 

AT PUBLIC COST, 

IN PROOF OF GRATITUDE, 

DEDICATE THIS MONUMENT 

TO THE ETERNAL MEMORY OF 

GENERAL D.JOSE FIGUEROA, 

MILITARY AND POLITICAL CHIEF 

OF ALTA CALIFORNIA ; 

THE FATHER OF THE COUNTRY, 

WHO DIED IN THIS CAPITAL, 

THE 29th OF SEPTEMBER, A.D. 1835, 

AGED 43 YEARS. 

Days ! months ! ! years ! ! ! have rolled away, and yet 
naught has been done to perpetuate the memory of this 
exalted man ! the country's loss ! This serves to show 
a want of sincerity in those who most deeply deplored 
his deaths and the instability of their character. 

The remains of his Excellency were finally embark- 
ed in the American brig "Avon," and carried to 
St. Barbara, where they were deposited in the vaults 
under the Mission church. During tfteir conveyance 
from the vessel to the shore minute guns were fired, and 
a large procession followed to their interment. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 173 

By testament of Figueroa, Don Nicolas Gutierez suc- 
ceeded to the command, soon after his arrival from St. 
Gabriel, where he had been charged with the temporal 
care of that mission. But it was for a short period. A 
few months afterwards a vessel arrived at Santa Barbara 
with a new Governor named " Chico," who disembarked 
immediately, and proceeded by land to the capital. 

Prejudiced against many of the Cahfornians, and vio- 
lently incensed at the foreign residents, Chico commen- 
ced a tyranny that soon brought him into disgrace ; and 
finally ended in his expulsion from the territory. Gutie- 
rez assumed the command once more, and things went 
on quietly till a disturbance broke out between him and 
the officers of the Custom-House Department. 

The " Administrador" of the Customs at this period 
was D. Angel Ramirez, a Mexican, who had formerly 
held a similar post at Matamoras, and was originally a 
friar of the Zacatecas Order. The next in authority 
was D. Juan Bautista Alvarado, a native of California, 
who had figured for several years as Secretary to the 
" Diputacion," and had been considered one of the bright 
luminaries of this lovely hemisphere. His early educa- 
tion commenced (as did that of most of the young men 
in California) under the patronage and tuition of one of 
the holy Missionaries. Possessed of good natural talents, 
he was quick to learn ; so that from frequent intercourse 
with the foreign residents in the country, he liad acqui- 
red considerable of the Enghsh language. This gave 

him access to their amusements and convivialities, and 
16* 






174 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

prepared for him that support which he subsequently 
received. It was with D. Juan,that Gutierez quarrelled, 
in consequence of some necessary etiquette that should 
have passed between them relative to the placing of 
guards at the landing-places. A violent dispute took 
place, wdth some high-sounding threats, which ended in 
an order from Gutierez for his arrest. But escaping 
from the town, he flew to the protection of his friends. 

There were many Englishmen and Americans living 
in the suburbs of Monterey ; and on the route to St. 
Francisco, at a place called " Natividad," there dwelt a 
bold Tennessean, whose name was Graham. He had 
pioneered his way across the Rocky Mountains, in com- 
pany with several others, who, like him, preferred the 
hunter's fare to a life of ease and comfort in their own 
country. Finding in Upper California a climate suited 
to his taste, he had located himself there, and erected a 
rude dwelling, where he followed the distilHng of spirit 
from grain. Here, at this rude hut, our hero. D. Juan, 
stopped and told his story ; explained his plan of revenge^ 
and begged the influence and aid of the Tennessean. 
His pleadings were not in vain. " Go you," said Gra- 
ham, " go you, and gather together your friends in the 
north, and I will call around me here, a force that will 
make the old devil of a Mexican tremble." In a few 
days a force of fifty riflemen, headed by Captain Gra- 
ham, and one hundred Californians under command of 
Don Jose Castro^ were encamped near a wood in the 
rear of the capital. Here a consultation was held by the 



** 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 175 

officers, and an agreement entered into between Graham 
and Alvarado, that in case of success against the Mex- 
ican governor, and obtaining possession of the country, 
it should be declared independent of Mexico. 

The combined forces entered the capital under cover 
of night, and took possession of its fort without firing 
a single shot. Gutierez was shut up in the Presidio, 
with his soldiers, who numbered double those of his en- 
emies. When morning came, parleying commenced, 
and continued some time, without any advantageous re- 
sult to either party, till, at length, a brass four-pounder 
levelled at the house of Gutierez, sent a ball through 
its roof, which brought him to immediate terms. The 
Mexican troops laid down their arms ; then, Alvarado 
and Castro, at the head of their vaUant party, marched 
triumphantly to the '• Plaza." 

Sefior Alvarado, by unanimous consent, was placed 
at the head of the government, and Senor Gaudaloupe 
Vallejo was called upon to take the military command. 
On the 7th of November, 1836, the following resolutions 
were proclaimed to the inhabitants of Monterey. 1st 
^' Upper California is declared to be independent of Mex- 
^' ico, during the non-re-establishment of the Federal 
"system, which was adopted in the year 1824. 2d. 
" The said California shall be erected into a free and 
" governing state ; establishing a Congress, which shall 
" dictate all the particular laws of the country, and elect 
'' the other supreme powers necessary ; declaring the 
" actual ^ Most Excellent Deputation ' constituent. 3d, 




176 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

" The Religion shall be the Roman Catholic Apostolic, 
" without admitting the exercise of any other ; but the 
" government will not molest any persons for their par- 
" ticular rehgious opinions. 4th. " A constitution shall 
''regulate all the branches of the administration 'pro- 
" visionally,' in conformity, as much as possible, with 
" the expressed declaration. 5th. " Until what is con- 
" tained in the foregoing articles be put in execution^ 
"^Senor Don Mariano Gaudaloupe Yallejo' shall be 
" called upon to act as Commandant-General. 6th. 
"The President of the 'Most Excellent Deputation^ 
" shall pass the necessary communications to the muni- 
" cipalities of the territory." 

The expulsion of Gutierez, his officere and troops, to- 
gether with other Mexicans, followed these proceedings. 
Undoubtedly the principal actors, in the formation of 
this new constitution, were the ex~Friar Don Angel Ra- 
mirez and Don Cosme Peiia, a Mexican lawyer. It 
was reported, at the time, that a flag had been prepared 
for the new JRepublic, and deposited in the house of 
the former. It was the Texian — the Lone Star ! 
They never made use of it, however, but continued to 
administer their government under the Mexican banner. 

Several Mexican vessels lying at anchor, in the har- 
bor of Monterey, were taken possession of, by the Cali- 
fornians, but were subsequently released, and permitted 
to depart. One of them proceeded, immediately, to St. 
Bias with the important intelhgence, which was com- 
municated, forthwith, to the Mexican government. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 177 

Furious proclamations against these daring rebels were 
issued, and an appeal was made to the citizens, for their 
patriotic assistance, to crush, with one mighty blow, 
such audacious presumption. A formidable expedition 
was to proceed to Cahfornia, but, after a while, the ex- 
citement subsided, and the Californians were permitted 
to govern themselves. This being (in the opinion of 
the Mexicans) the best method of chastisement. 

However, as yet, Alvarado was uninformed of the 
views entertained by his countrymen at the south ; 
and, consequently ignorant of the effect produced by 
his proclamation. He accordingly despatched Jose Cas- 
tro to St. Barbara, whom he empowered to treat with 
its inhabitants. The fifty riflemen, with the Tennes- 
sean at their head, accompanied the Plenipotentiary, 
and they were quite sufficient to pioneer the way for 
Alvarado, who soon followed, and took up his quarters 
at the Mission. 



CHAPTER XL 

Echeandia's Policy. — Don Carlos Carrillo appointed Governor. — War 
against his Nephew. — Is defeated. — Singular Approval of the Mexican 
Government. — Central Government. — Alvarado's wounded Dignity. 
— His Disgust for the Foreigners. — False Charges of Rebellion. — 
Seizure and Imprisonment of the Foreigners. — Their Banishment to 
Mexico. — Proclamation of Alvarado. — Arrival of an American and a 
French Sloop of War. — Consternation of Alvarado. — Satisfaction 
given to the Captain of the St. Louis. — Desertion of St. Diego. — 
Consequences of Secularization. — A Ride to the Pueblo. — Return of 
the Foreigners. — Mines. — Anglo-Californian Justice. — Temblores. — 
Rodeo. — Sad Incident. — Important News. — Arrival of a Bishop. — His 
Reception. — Arrival of Sir George S and Governor McL . 

Like their illustrious predecessors, the Californians 
seemed to think that the Missions were their own, to 
make use of as necessity required. So, like true pro- 
fessors of Echeandia^s policy^ they plundered, and* per- 
mitted plunder. Such a depraved system was not likely 
to succeed long ; enemies were created from envy, and 
soon began to appear. In the " Pueblo de los Angeles" 
a party was formed which avowed adherence to Mexi- 
co. This was followed by an express from Mexico, 
with documents; constituting and appointing D. Carlos 
Carrillo, " Governador de la illta California." 

Don Carlos, incited by a few friends, declared war 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 179 

against his nephew Alvarado, which was unsuccessful. 
He, and his advisers, were taken prisoners. The lat- 
ter were sent to the Presidio of Sonoma, on tiie north 
side of St. Francisco ; while the former, was confined 
in his house at St. Barbara. 

Our hero, Alvarado, having so unceremoniously dis- 
posed of his uncle, Carrillo, prepared an account of his 
proceedings, for the Mexican government. A messen- 
ger was despatched to St. Bias, wiio promptly returned, 
with their entire approval of Alvarado's conduct. But 
it was necessary to appease the vanquished party, and 
Carrillo was presented with the island of St. Rosa, as a 
testimonial of the government's high regard. The cen- 
tral government was now recognised ; Castro was ap- 
pointed Prefect of the northern district, and Cosme Peila 
of the southern. Thus, Upper California formed two 
districts, each representing a state government, subject 
to the jurisdiction of the supreme power at Monterey. 
A new "Diputado" to the Mexican Congress was 
elected, and matters went on quietly, whilst the " Pre- 
sidios," at the different places, were suffered to fall to 
ruin. At St. Diego, the officer in command was per- 
mitted to unroof the houses and the church, and dis- 
pose of the tiles to meet demands, which he had against 
the government. The forts were neglected, and Alva- 
rado cared httle for the safety of any other place but the 
one where he was located. 

Thus, firmly established in power, the governor felt 
more sensibly the dignity of his situation, and wished 



180 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

to put an end to the freedom with which his rude for- 
eign friends were wont to treat him. He became more 
reserved ; he was ever " not at home " to their calls, 
and avoided them at all times. Such ingratitude was 
not to be borne by the Tennessean ! No ! he boldly 
told him to his teeth, that to him he owed his elevation. 
Every day his disgust increased for " los malditos es- 
trangeros," and an opportunity to rid himself of their im- 
portunities and threats, soon offered. 

Graham had a fine horse, which he had trained for 
the turf, and had challenged the whole country to the 
course. At length, a countryman of his, residing in the 
"Pueblo de los Angeles," made arrangements to run 
the noble gelding, with a high-mettled racer from St. 
Diego. A document was drawn up on the occasion, 
which was intended, solely, to bind more strictly the 
parties interested. This document was construed into 
a plan for overturning the government — a plan to plun- 
der, and destroy, what was left of the Missions — a plan 
to deprive the Californians of their lives and country. 
As ridiculous as this may appear to the reader, never- 
theless, it is a fact, to which I can testify, from infor- 
mation I received on the spot, shortly after its occur- 
rence. This intelligence was secretly conveyed to all 
the authorities throughout the country, with explicit 
orders from Governor Alvarado, to secure and imprison 
the foreigners. But to take the Tennessean, it was 
thought requisite to send an armed force, under the 
command of the renowned Jose Castro ! The manner, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 181 

in which they managed to get possession of his person, 
has been already stated in other publications. Suffice 
it to say, our countryman was asleep in his rude dwell- 
ing, when the report of a pistol awakened him, and he 
sprang quickly towards the door. Several villains, 
discharged other pistols at him, so near, as to fire his 
shirt in many places. He attempted to escape, but was 
seized, and dragged to prison. 

As soon as practicable on the part of the government, 
a vessel was -chartered, and the Americans and English- 
men who had been collected at the different points, 
were embarked in chains, and sent to St. Bias. 

This achievement was followed by a public expres- 
sion of thanks to the Omnipotent power, who thus 
saved California from destruction. Mass was performed, 
and at its conclusion the following bombastic proclama- 
tion was distributed. 

JUAN BAUTISTA ALVARADO, 

GOVERNADOR CONSTITUCIONAL 

DEL DEPARTAMENTO DE LAS CALIFQRNIAS, 

TO ITS INHABITANTS. 

" Fellow-citizens ! a sordid and mercenary faction, in- 
" cited by some ungrateful foreigners, whom you had re- 
" ceived to your hospitable land, purposed to deprive you 
" of the richest of treasures, your lives and country ; and 
'• sacrifice to their ungovernable desires the highest au- 
*' thorities. ' El Govierno Departamental,' with the assist- 

17 



IS2 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

'' ance of its subalterns, and the honorable military 
'• garrison, was enabled to smother the conspiracy at its 
". commencement. The necessary proceedings were ta- 
" ken, but for want of a competent tribunal, the villains 
" were sent to the Supreme Government, together with 
" the leaders of the faction, and a multitude of other for- 
" eigners, who were illegally introduced into the coun- 
" try, and who had no other object here but the increase 
" of public disorder. They were deserters from merchant 
" vessels, and vessels of war, who were secretly hidden 
"in the 'ranchos' and woods, and against them we 
" have proceeded, according to the powers conceded to 
" the government by article 12th of the law of the 1st 
" May, 1828. 

" Fellow-citizens ! I can assure you that the country 
has been saved from imminent danger ; for which I 
" ought to congratulate you, recommending to your gen- 
" erosity and friendship those who ought to be consider- 
" ed as Mexicans, and who reside in the country under 
" the protection of its laws ; manifesting by this, your 
"natural inclination to order, and the hospitality with 
" which you have always received strangers. And rest 
" assured that the government will use every means in 
" its power to insure the peace of this precious portion 
" of the nation, relying upon your constant and pure 
'•patriotism, in which your fellow-citizen will ever join 
" with you 

"Juan Bautista Alvarado." 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 183 

This important event took place in April, 1840. 
Had the Cahfornians been wise enough to have exam- 
ined into the charges, and chastised where chastise- 
ment was due, the affair would have ended where it 
commenced; but, erring, as they always did, when 
meddling with foreign interests, they were sure to be on 
the wrong side. 

What must have been their surprise, when one day, 
towards the last of June, a French ship of war entered 
their port, and anchored close to the beach, so as to 
bring her guns to bear directly upon the town ! What 
must have been their terror when immediately after- 
wards came another ship, bearing at her peak the broad 
stripes of our country ! " I come for vengeance," said 
the first, " why have you killed a Frenchman ?" "I 
come for justice," said the other, '' what have you been 
doing with my countrymen ?" Alvarado was now fall- 
en indeed ! His valiant Castro had gone to Mexico with 
the prisoners, and Vallejo was more than two hundred 
miles off. Resistance was impossible, and retreat to a 
neighboring mission, by feigning a disturbance amongst 
the Indians there, was hit upon as being the most plau- 
sible method of getting out of an awkward dilemma. So, 
one morning early, he very unceremoniously departed. 
This was the satisfaction given to our captain of the 
St. Louis ! 

After the ships of war had sailed, the Governor came 
back, when I called upon him to arral%e some affairs 
of my own ; for I had just returned to California after 



^ . 



184 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

an absence of two years. We had some conversation 
respecting the expulsion of the foreigners, their reported 
conspiracy, the arrival of the St. Louis, and also, respect- 
ing the officer who had been left on shore by her com- 
mander, to look after the interests of the American res- 
idents. 

Sefior Alvarado firmly believed in the intention of 
Graham to revolutionize the country, although possess- 
ed of no facts to prove it. " I was insulted," he said, 
" at every turn, by the drunken followers of Graham ; 
and when walking in the garden they would come to 
its wall, and call upon me in terms of the greatest fa- 
miliarity : ' Ho ! Bautista, come here, I want to speak to 
you.' — ' Bautista, here.' — ' Bautista, there' — and Bau- 
tista every where." No doubt the Governor had reason 
to be dissatisfied ; but I really believe that there Avere 
others more to be blamed than Alvarado, for the outrage 
committed upon our countrymen. " Mexico was respon- 
sible for his conduct," he said, " and if he had erred — 
why, Mexico must suffer the consequences !" He ob- 
served, that he could not receive the officer, who had 
been landed from the St. Louis, as a diplomatic charac- 
ter, but would give him all the protection and hospital- 
ity due to a worthy citizen of the United States. 

Affairs continued under the control of Jiian Bautis- 
ta, without any important occurrence, excepting a breach 
which occurred between him and Vallejo, who had re- 
tired to his place of residence at Sonoma. 

At this period of events, I embarked on board of the 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 185 

ship Alert, and again visited St. Diego. Here every- 
thing was prostrated — the Presidio ruined — the Mis- 
sion depopulated — the town almost deserted, and its few 
inhabitants miserably poor. It had changed ! From 
being once the life of, and most important place in 
California, it had now become the gloomiest and most 
desolate. With great difficulty I succeeded in procuring 
horses to return north, by land, and in doing which the 
person with whom I contracted compelled me to pay an 
enormous compensation. For a distance which I had 
often performed, during the flourishing state of the mis- 
sionary establishments, at an expense of five or six dol- 
lars, I had now to pay forty ! So much for seculariza- 
tion ! so much for the Cahfornian Goverament ! I 

started in company with friend M . We arrived 

at the Mission of St. Luis Rey early, and partook of 
the hospitahty of Don Jose Antonio Estudillo, who Imd 
been recentl}^ appointed Administrador of the Institu- 
tion. His daughters had grown up to be young ladies, 
and were said to be engaged to two European Span- 
iards. After passing the night with Don Jose Antonio, 
we continued on, next morning, passing St. Juan in our 
route, and, at an advanced hour of the day, halted for 
refreshment. Whilst doing so, a guide who had accom- 
panied us through the journey, cautioned us to be care- 
ful of our horses, but the warning had scarcely escaped 
his lips when off they started, in different directions, at 
a rapid rate. Fortunately, one stopped, upon which he 
(the guide) mounted in pursuit. Night came on, and 

17* 



186 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

four hours elapsed ere he returned, bringing willi him 
one of the extra horses, and the one on which I had 
performed the journey. His own horse,- to which was 
affixed our portmanteau, with two otliers, were missing. 
It being then eight o'clock at night, we resumed our 
journey, upon the worn-out animals, trotted over an ex- 
tensive plain, where, at times, the wind came in gusts 
from the Jiiountains, and reached " El Rancho de San- 
ta Ana" almost dead from fatigue. As we ahghted at 
the house, a dolt of a fellow accosted us, and said we 
could not be admitted, for " AUi estan las mugeres," — 
" The women are there," so we were obliged to put up with 
a coarse kind of bed, outside the house, in the corridor. 
Tired, we soon fell asleep, and did not awake till late 
next morning. Continuing our journey for the Pueblo, 
we stopped at the house of Tomas Yorba : again, at 
" El Rancho Nietos," and arrived early at the town. 

We took up our quarters with Mr. A. S , who 

came from Mexico in 1829 with Seiior Noriega, and 
was now a merchant, doing an extensive business with 
the " Pueblanos." Having failed in his project of col- 
onization, he had resorted to this mode of obtaining a 
livelihood, and, in so doing, had amassed a handsome 
property. His house, the handsomest in the town, was 
a place of resort for the Americans who occasionally vis- 4 
ited " los Angeles ;" which, in consequence of its dimen- 
sions, was called by the natives "el Palacio de Don 
Abel." Being a warm politician, something of a sur- 
veyor, and a physician, they looked upon him as the 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 187 

man of the village ; seeking for him to officiate in 
either capacity, as occasion required. He had been 
elected to the honorable dignity of " Syndico" to the 
"Ylustre Ayuntamiento," and had been lauded for the 
zeal with which he discharged the duties of his office ; 
but no higher public occupation, I believe, had ever fall- 
en to his lot. 

Leaving the Pueblo, we proceeded towards St. Pedro, 
where we embarked, and sailed for Monterey. While 
sojourning here, in July, 1842, the Mexican schooner 
Columbine came into port from St. Bias, and anchored. 
The Custom-House barge put off, to pay the usual visit. 
Rumors were circulated that her deck was crammed 
with men. Some thought they were Mexican troops. 
Some said they were " presidarios,"— and some, (jo- 
kingly) that they were Graham's party. In the mean- 
time the boat returned, and the truth was ascertained. 
Graham and his party had returned. The indefatiga- 
ble Tennessean had achieved an honorable conveyance 
back, and was enabled to face again the avithor of his 
disgrace. What were the feelings of Alvarado? He 
would have prevented their landing, but dared not in- 
terfere with a determination of the supreme power, when 
backed, or rather enforced, by English and American 
influence. They came on shore, dressed neatly, armed 
with rifles and swords, and looking in infinitely better 
condition than when they departed ; thanks to the en- 
ergetic measures of the British consul! His prompt in- 
terference and authoritative manner procured their im- 



i 



188 LIFE IN CALIFOUNIA. 

mediate release in Tepic, and the imprisonment of their 
CaUfornian guard ; thus turning the tables completely 
upon the Californians. The Mexican government was 
obliged to maintain them, during their detention in 
Mexico, and finally chartered a vessel to carry them 
back. Castro's conduct underwent a strict investiga- 
tion, and it is said that it would have gone hard with 
him, if he had not managed to escape through the con- 
nivance of his government. 

The foreigners, thus restored to their former residen- 
ces, were permitted to resume their various occupa- 
tions. 

My friends H and S had dissolved their 

business connexion ; and whilst the latter continued in 
the same line of employment, with the additional re- 
sponsibility of " Alcalde Constitucional" of the place ; 
the former had retired to one of the loveliest of spots, 
called " El Ahsal," to educate young men for a business 
or professional life. 

I had an opportunity one day to witness the wisdom 

of S 's judicial proceedings. A "Ranchero" who 

had visited one of the American trading ships, saw 
among many things that w^ere to be seen in the trade- 
room, a trunk, to which he took an extraordinary fan 
cy. Its price was asked of the supercargo, and a bar- 
gain was struck between the two. The trunk could 
not, however, be delivered, till emptied of its contents ; 
and the " ranchero" consented to await the ship's return 
from San Francisco, ere he received it. The vessel 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 189 

sailed, and in a few weeks returned to Monterey. Among 
the first who went on board was the " ranchero," demand- 
ing his trunk. It was shown to him, but he denied its 
being the one for which he bargained ; he must either 
have that one or the money, which (without the knowl- 
edge of the supercargo) he had given to ^friend who 
was on board at the time he made tlie bargain, and wlio 
had requested that the trunk might be charged in his 
account. A violent dispute ensued, till, at length, the 
supercargo, worn out and irritated beyond measure, re- 
quested a boat from the first officer, and then told the 
" ranchero" if he did not walk into it quickly he would 
have to sioirn, for the mate would throw him overboard. 
This induced him to retreat ; but he went off utterinof 
threats and curses against the " maldito Ingles." Av- 
riving on shore, he repaired immediately to the " Juz- 
gado," and laid his complaint before the '•' xllcalde." On 
the following morning the supercargo was summoned to 
appear forthwith, to answer to a charge of fraud. Re- 
pairing to the place of justice, he listened to the story of 
his accuser, and then explained to the '' Alcalde" the cir- 
cumstances as they occurred. The cause was argued 
by the parties interested, as is invariably the case in Cal- 
ifornia, and it rested upon the " Alcalde's" decision, which 
was a delicate point; the defendant being a foreigner, 
like himself, and the accuser a Californian. If he should 
decide in favor of the supercargo, it would be partiaUty ; 
if in favor of the ranchero, injustice. Therefore, the 
following judicious decision was passed. The super- 



190 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

cargo was compelled to take an order upon the person 
who received the money, to collect the same, if possible, 
and remit it to the " Ilustre Ayuntamiento," on account 
of the individual interested. The CaUfornian appeared 
well satisfied in his own mind that he had gained his 
point ; and the supercargo had no objection, on the oth- 
er hand, to oblige his friend the " Alcalde." 

During this visit to Monterey, I accompanied H 

to his " Alisal," which is a romantic spot, in a valley, 
between large hills covered with trees. In the centre, a 
fine stream winds its way towards an extensive plain, 
and supplies the " Lagunas," where the cattle resort to 
drink. There are fine gardens, and plenty of good 
ground for cultivation. The soil, on the highlands, has 
the appearance of possessing mineral qualities, and, a 
short distance from the house, may be seen an excava- 
tion, from which considerable quantities of silver ore had 
been obtained. It was the^r^^ mine discovered in Cal- 
ifornia. Others were subsequently found at different 
points in the country, and at one time the mania for 
mining was so great, that every old Avoman had her 
specimens of what she called ore. Finally, a rich mine 
of " placer " gold was, by chance, discovered, neai* the 
Mission of San Fernando. It extends for several leagues 
through a valley. Some of its gold has already found 
its way to the United States, and quantities have been 
carried to Mexico. 

While passing the night at " El Alisal," I was sud- 
denly awakened by a sound, resembhng the report of 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 191 

heavy artillery, accompanied by the jarring of the house. 
Women screamed, children cried, and, as I groped 
through the dark, towards the door, I heard the cry, 
" Temblor !" Some were for throwing themselves from 
the windows, others leaped down the stairway ; and for 
a few minutes we had one of the most confused scenes 

imaginable. The fright subsiding, H stopped at 

my room, in his search for damage, and said the walls 
beneath were badly rent ; that this was the twenty-fifth 
shock they had experienced within the last two months. 
One day, they had five successive shocks, which made 
the whole building tremble violently. Frequent as 
these occurrences are, they are confined to this spot 
alone ; their cause, I presume, may be attributed to the 
existence of mineral formations in the earth. 

A " rodeo " was held on the following day, when all 
the neighboring " rancheros," as usual, were invited to 
attend. It was for the purpose of branding and mark- 
ing the cattle belonging to H , who, for his family's 

amusement, had erected a platform near the scene q/ 
action, that they might better witness the proceedings. 
This operation is performed once every year, by all 
holders of cattle, and is conducted as follows. After 
collecting the animals from the dififerent points of the 
farm, into one body, a portion of them are driven into a 
'' coral," where they are branded with the mark of the 
owner, and the operation of castration is performed on 
the calves. This being completed, they are let out and 
driven off, others taking their places ; and thus, the pro- 



192 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

cess continues until all have passed the inspection of 
the operators. This sometimes occupies several days, 
andj while it continues, the young men have an excel- 
lent opportunity of displaying their skill in horseman- 
ship. 

Returning to Monterey, I took passage on board of 
a Mexican vessel, and proceeded to Santa Barbara. 
Here I received intelligence of the arrival of Castro, from 
Mexico, and of his having been suddenly taken ill on 
the road, which undoubtedly proceeded from the excite- 
ment, caused by inteUigence having been given to him, 
that Graham and his followers had preceded him, and 
were actually in the country. Being enabled, however, 
in a few days to resume his journey, the " Coronel^' 
as he was now styled, made his grand entrance into 
the town. No guns were fired on the occasion, nor was 
there any martial display of troops ; but a few of his 
dearest friends went forth to meet him. The " Co- 
mandante " of the place, was one who had worn himself 
grey in service, and had served under royal authority, 
before Castro was born ; yet, because he was a " ga- 
chupin," he was obhged to be contented with the rank 
of Captain, whilst others, who were once boys under his 
tuition, were denominated " Coronels " and Generals. 
Rumor had preceded Castro, of his having escaped from 
the authorities of Mexico ; to ascertain the truth of 
which, the "Comandante" sent an officer to demand 
his passport. The requisition was contested in a mes- 
sage full of insult. This, the old veteran could not 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 193 

brook, but sat himself down, and wrote a communica- 
tion to the " valiant Coronel," which soon brought him 
to his presence. He had no passport with him. He 
said " it had been carelessly left in his trunk, supposing 
" that no one would demand it ; however, as soon as 
" the trunk came to hand, he would send him the doc- 
" ument for inspection." This was satisfactory, and he 
departed. 

Business called me to the " Rancho del Refugio^^ 

where the ship A had been despatched to be laden 

with hides and tallow; and, having witnessed almost 
their entire embarkation, I returned. On the morning 
of the following day, which was Sunday, the ship was 
in sight, but at a long distance from the shore. I went 
to church, and on my return homeward, she having ap- 
proached nearer, I observed her colors were hoisted at 
half-mast. My first conjecture was, that some one had 
been lost overboard, or had been drowned in embarking 
the hides at the " Refugio." The ship came to, how- 
ever, and the colors were run up to their proper place. 
Presuming the position of the flag was accidental, I 

thought no more of it, until Captain P — came on 

shore, and informed me of the melancholy loss of one of 
the boys. The poor fellow had gone in to bathe, and after 
wading up to his middle, had thrown himself forward to 
swim ; not being aware of the powerful under-current, he 
was speedily taken outside of the surf, beyond his depth, 
and drowned. The captain was employed all the after- 
noon in searching for his body ; but not succeeding in 

18 



194 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

finding it, he offered a reward to several natives who had 
arrived at the beach, to continue the search, and if they 
found it, to take it to the town. About mid-day a person 
came to the house of the '• Comandante," with the body 
rolled up in blankets and mats, and thrown across a car- 
go mule. From thence it was taken on board the ship. 
The carpenter prepared a coffin, and the next day w^as 
appointed for the funeral. 

At 10 o'clock a gun was fired from the ship, the colors 
were all hoisted at half-mast, and the coffin was gently 
lowered into one of the boats, which was manned by 
young lads, who pulled for the shore. Another boat fol- 
lowed with the greater portion of the crew. Arriving at 
the beach, the coffin, shrouded by the American ensign, 
was transferred to a bier, and borne along slowly by 
the boys towards the grave. The men followed in the 
rear, as also the captain and supercargo, with many of 
the foreign residents. 

Thus we slowly proceeded through the centre of the 
town, till we reached the place of burial, which was a short 
distance in the rear, and adjoining an enclosure where 
were deposited the remains of Mr. Hardy Pierce, of Mas- 
sachusetts. The usual funeral prayers were read by the 
captain, and at their conclusion poor L^owell was commit- 
ted to his narrow bed — the grave — in a foreign land, and 
thousands of miles from his mother, brothers and sisters. 
As the earth fell upon his remains, we, one by one, re- 
tired from the scene, deeply impressed with the import- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 195 

ance of being fully prepared, ourselves, for a like sudden 
dispensation of the Almighty. 

For a great length of time the CaUfornians had been 
in anxious expectation of the coming of a bishop, who 
had been appointed for their diocese by his holiness, the 
Pope. At length a courier arrived from St. Diego, on 
the 16th of December, 1841, announcing the fact of his 
having disembarked at that place. He came passenger 
on board of an English brig from San Bias, accompanied 
by several priests, two schoolmasters, three schoolmis- 
tresses, and four novitiates. The news was received 
with the most enthusiastic expressions of joy by the in- 
habitants of Santa Barbara ; guns were fired, and sky- 
rockets let off in every direction. At the Mission the 
bells rang a merry peal, and the music of the band was 
heard at intervals, as its harmonious sounds floated 
through the air. 

Several days subsequent to this demonstration of joy, 
we had an exhibition of the " Pastores," by the In- 
dians of the Mission. They had been practising for 
some time, under the direction of Padre Antonio Ji- 
meno, and a great triumph was therefore anticipated 
over the performances of the ^'- gente de razony* This 
exhibition took place on Sunday afternoon, in the court- 
yard of Sefior Noriega, where four or five hundred per- 
sons were collected, to enjoy the amusement. Their 
performances were pronounced excellent, and I think 
they far surpassed those of the whites, which 1 had 

* The white people. 



196 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

witnessed some years previous, at St. Diego. At the 
conclusion of the '• Pastoies," a celebrated juggler came 
forward, and amused us a half hour longer, with some 
expert, and wonderful tricks of legerdemain. 

The schooner Leonidas arrived, from St. Diego, with 
intelligence of the Bishop's intended embarkation at 
that place, in the barque Guipuzcoana. Her owner, 
Don Jose Antonio Aguirre, had lately married there, 
the daughter of Sefior Estudillo, and designed bringing 
his wife to Santa Barbara, where he had been prepar- 
ing for some time previous, a suitable residence. The 
venerable Bishop, and his retinue, had been invited to 
accompany the bridal party, and it was too good an op- 
portunity for him to accomplish the remainder of his 
journey, to admit of a refusal. Great preparations were 
made, upon hearing this news, and all were anxious for 
the Bishop's arrival ; for he was a functionary that but 
very few in California had ever beheld. 

The vessel was in sight on the morning of the 11th 
of January, 1842, but lay becalmed and rolhng to tlie 
ocean's swell. A boat put off from her side, and ap- 
proached the landing-place. One of the attendants of 
his Excellency, who came in it, repaired to the Mission, 
to communicate with the Father President. All was 
bustle ; men, women, and children hastening to the 
beach, banners flying, drums beating, and soldiers 
marching. The whole population of the place turned 
out, to pay homage to this first Bishop of Cahfornia. 
At eleven o'clock the vessel anchored. He came on 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 197 

shore, and was Avelcomed by the kneeling muhitude. 
All received his benediction — all kissed the pontifical 
ring. The troops, and civic authorities, then escorted 
him to the house of Don Jose Antonio, where he dined. 
A carriage had been prepared for his Excellency, which 
was accompanied by several others, occupied by the 
President and his friends. The females had formed, 
with ornamented canes, beautiful arches, through which 
the procession passed ; and as it marched along, the 
heavy artillery of the "Presidio" continued to thunder 
forth its noisy welcome. At the time he left the barque 
she was enveloped in smoke, and the distant report of 
her guns, was heard echoing among the hills in our 
rear. 

The bride, with her mother and her sisters, remained 
on board till afternoon, w^hen they, also, repaired to the 
festive scene. 

At four o'clock, the Bishop was escorted to the Mis- 
sion, and when a short distance from the town, the en- 
thusiastic inhabitants took the horses from his carriage, 
and dragged it themselves. Halting at a small bower, 
on the road, he alighted, went into it, and put on his 
pontifical robes ; then resuming his place in the car- 
riage, he continued on, amidst the sound of music and 
the firing of guns, till he arrived at the church, where 
he addressed the multitude that followed him. 

The Reverend Bishop Francisco Garcia Diego, is a 
Mexican, and a Friar of the Franciscan order. He had 
been a teacher of theology in Mexico, and afterwards, 

18* 



198 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

in 1833, was "Comisario Prefecto" of the Missions of 
Upper California. Having passed several years in the 
country, he knew well how to work upon the minds of 
the Californians, in order to win their esteem, and to 
make himself popular. Santa Barbara was selected 
to be the " Episcopal See ;" and plans were drawn up, 
for the erection of his Palace, a Cathedral, a Monastery, 
and a Theological School. The inhabitants were call- 
ed upon to unite in forwarding these plans, and the 
Bishop trusted for resources to the " Fonda Piadosa de 
California," " Pious fund of California," in Mexico, for 
their accomplishment. Large piles of stones were heap- 
ed up, in several places, for laying the foundations of 
the above-named edifices ; but, as the Mexican govern- 
ment have seen proper to appropriate this fund to less 
pious purposes, there they will undoubtedly remain, for 
some years, as monuments of the frailty of human spec- 
ulations. 

About this time, on the arrival of the Hudson Bay 
Company's barque " Cowlitz," we were visited by Sir 

George S , Governor McL , and others, who 

were passengers on board. They came to California 
for the purpose of obtaining information relative to tha 
character of the country, and making arrangements for 
the transportation of horned cattle to Oregon. An agent 
had been left at San Francisco, where they had previous- 
ly touched, to accomplish the scheme, and at Monterey 
they had arranged with Alvarado for the deUvery of the 
cattle at the northern missions. Thus large quantities 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 199 

of sheep and bullocks were driven to the Columbia. This 
served to establish the fact of the facihty of communi- 
cation between the two countries. The agency has 
been continued at San Francisco, and at one time it was 
said that the company intended to monopolize the trade 
on the coast, and put an end to all competition, as it 
had done at the north. Their establishing a commer- 
cial depot at this particular point, San Francisco, might 
suggest to the minds of some persons that it was in- 
tended for an introduction to further acquisitions. How- 
ever, that is no business of mine. The country would 
prosper under their jurisdiction, as it undoubtedly must, 
if it should ever come under our own. Whatever may 
be its fate, it can never be in worse hands than the 
present. 



CHAPTER XIL 

A " Merienda." — A Trip into the Interior. — Rancho de San Juan del 
Rio. — Arrival of Micheltorena. — His Reception at St. Diego. — Mex- 
ican Soldiery ! — A Bull-fight. — War with the United States. — Cap- 
ture of Monterey by the American Squadron under Commodore 
Jones. — Micheltorena's Flight. — His Subsequent Return and Estab- 
h'shment at Monterey. — Another Revolution. — A Battle. — Defeat of 
Micheltorena. — Expulsion of the Mexicans. — A New Governor. 

While preparing for a trip to San Diego, and about 
to leave, I received an invitation to participate in a " me- 
rienda," which was to be given by Dona Maria Anto- 

nia N . As strangers who visit Santa Barbara are 

often entertained in this way, a description of this may 
be interesting. 

Early on the day appointed, I found all busily em- 
ployed in preparing for the entertainment, and that sev- 
eral ox-carts laden with children, and servant girls, 
were about to start off. The company were to assem- 
ble at the house of Don Anastasio C , a brother of 

Dona Maria Antonia. All having arrived there, and 
the necessary arrangements being concluded, at the 
word of command our Gananes or drivers stuck the 
points of their long poles into the sides of the oxen, and 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 201 

the procession started for the " Laguna blanca," the 
place selected for the scene of our diversion. 
/ The cart of Dona Maria Antonia took the lead, drawn 
by two stout oxen. It contained, besides herself, her 
daughter, daughter-in-law, grand-daughter, and Doiia 
Concepcion, her sister ; leaving just sufficient room for 
me to squeeze in between the latter and Dofia Maria 
Antonia, with my legs danghng out behind. The cart 
was well made, arched over, and covered with bleached 
cotton, like many of our wagons at home. The next, 
in succession, was a cart containing the children with 
their respective Indian attendants to guard them from 
accident. This was lined inside with hides, which 
made a secure, as well as comfortable, conveyance. Af- 
ter this followed another, filled with the families of Joa- 
quin and Raymundo Carrillo, and still another, the 
fourth, the wheels of which squeaked under the im- 
mense weight of roast turkies, chickens, beef, mutton, 
tamales^ dulces, etc. The rear was closed by about 
fifteen or twenty persons on horseback. 

After a slow but pleasant ride of one hour we arrived 
at the spot selected for our encampment, " la Laguna 
blanca," a spacious amphitheatre, and one of the most 
lovely places that could have been chosen for the occa- 
sion. The surrounding hills were plentifully covered 
with small oak trees, and the grass around was beauti- 
fully enriched with flowers. In the centre of the area 
was a circular pond, bearing the name already stated, 
which had been increased by recent rains to a circum- 



202 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ference unusual, excepting at this season of the year. 
During the preparations for dinner I took my rifle and 
strolled into the woods in quest of game ; succeeding in 
killing some quails, I returned just in time to take part 
in the feast. 

A large white table-cloth was spread on the grass, 
upon which were tastefully arranged our different dish- 
es of meats, pastry, fruits^ and sweetmeats ; and around 
these we accommodated ourselves, some rechning, oth- 
ers seated upon the ground. At the conclusion of the 
dinner the boys amus-id us with a 'Horo" or bull, which 
they had brought frjm a neighboring farm; but he soon 
managed to escap^i, and made his way to the centre of 
the pond, where he remained quite secure from their 
torments. Beirg- foiled in this amusement they com- 
menced racing their horses, and gave us a good speci- 
men of their superior skill in riding. While they con- 
tinued these diversions, others of the party were scattered 
about in little groups, where the music of the guitar and 
singing seemed more attractive. 

At evening we returned to the Presidio, in the same 
order in which we left it ; each one well satisfied with 
the day's amusement. 

Leaving Santa Barbara 1 sailed to one of the southern 
ports. Several new farms are established in the inte- 
rior of the country, upon grounds which were formerly 
a part of the possessions of St. Gabriel. These I had 
long desired to see. They are located in the neighbor- 
hood of the river Santa Anna, and between the mission 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 203 

and the large establishment at San Bernadino. So, 
having made arrangements for horses, I started in com- 
pany with my friend M , and we shaped our course 

for the '' rancho" of Don Tomas Yorba. On our way 
we stopped at the farmhouse of Juan B. Leandry, who 
was alone, his family being absent at a wedding feast 
at the Pueblo. Leandry had been but two years a 
"ranchero," and now possessed a stock of about six 
thousand bullocks, besides horses, sheep, and all the 
necessary appendages to constitute a farm of first rate 
character. A vineyard occupies a large space on the 
left of the house, from w^hich he anticipated the pleas- 
ure of one day remitting a cargo of wines to the United 
States. Should he continue his indefatigable labors, he 
will have one of the richest " haciendas" in the country. 
He gave us dinner, after which we resumed our saddles, 
and soon reached Santa Anna. Not finding Don To- 
mas at home, we continued through a pass in the moun- 
tains, along the banks of a river ; and at sunset entered 
upon the plains of the " Rancho de San Juan del Rio," 
the dwelling place of Senor Bandini. We found our 
fiiend Yorba here, and the first expression of Bandini, 
as he took us by the hand, was " Cuanto hay de bueno 
por aqui !" " How much good we have here !" Soon 
after supper we retired to rest, and fell into a deep slum- 
ber which lasted till seven o'clock next morning, when 
a gentle tap was heard at the door, and in popped our 
agreeable friend Bandini. Having asked how we had 
passed the night, he quaintly told us that our horses 



204 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

were missing, and that we should have to remain and 
pass the day in " San Juan del Rio !" 

After partaking of a hospitable breakfast, we went to 
a " rodeo " at the farm of one of the largest cattle hold- 
ers in the country. Having rode a short distance, we 
saw large clouds of dust rising in that direction, and 
soon afterwards, cattle were distinctly perceived, gathered 
in a large body of between five and six thousand. 
The proprietor, Don Antonio Maria Lugo, now possess- 
ing from twelve to fourteen thousand bullocks, was once 
a common soldier in the army. At the time of his re- 
tirement from service, he was presented, by a friend, 
with two or three cows, which by careful management 
have made him the richest farmer in Cahfornia. With 
all his wealth, he lives miserably poor, depriving him- 
self of the comforts of life, yet he thinks nothing of 
squandering thousands upon others. Although advan- 
ced in years, he has lately married a young and pretty 
girl, who takes pleasure in entertaining the visitors of 
her husband. 

As we returned, we visited the planting gi'ounds of 
Bandini, which were beautifully laid out, on the side 
of the river. 

On our route back to the Pueblo, we passed through 
a long valley, which was the scene of destruction during 
the slaughter of the Mission cattle in 1835. Its devas- 
tation was still visible, for skulls and bones were lying 
about in every direction. 

At the farmhouse of Isaac W we stopped awhile 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 205 

to rest our horses. It is the most spacious building of 
the kind in the country, and possesses all desirable con- 
veniences. Soon after leaving this dehghtful spot, we 
reached the dweUing of our friend Don Abel, at " los 
Angeles." 

An arrival at St. Pedro, from Mazatlan, brought in- 
telligence of the coming of a new General to California, 
with six hundred men. This was a movement of Santa 
Anna, who began to fear an innovation of the foreign- 
ers on the northern confines of San Francisco. Many 
Americans had already made their appearance along 
the margin of the Sacramento, where a Swiss gentle- 
man, named Sutter, had commenced the formation of a 
colony ; and day after day notices were to be seen in the 
American papers, that parties had left, or were leaving 
our Western States for California. 

This alone was sufficient inducement to prompt the 
Mexican Government to an act so important ; but it had 
also another reason. The political Governor of Cali- 
fornia had solicited the appointment of a new General, 
with an additional force of one hundred men, and Val- 
lejo, the General, had also requested the displacing of 
Alvarado, and the appointing of another in his place. 

Now was the time for the Mexican power to seek to 
re-establish its authority, while disaffection lasted ; and 
an expedition was accordingly equipped for the purpose. 
One day, towards the last of August, 1842, I sailed 
from St. Pedro, and proceeded along down the coast to- 
wards St. Diego. On the following morning, when ap- 

19 



206 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

preaching Point Loma, a small vessel was perceptibly 
making sail from her anchorage in the outer bay. 
When we entered the harbor, where she had preceded 
us, she had dropped anchor again, and the men were 
busy furling her sails. They had communicated with 
the shore, and as we were curious to ascertain who were 
on board, we immediately repaired in our boat to " Hide 
Park." It was a small brig, bringing the new Mexican 
General and his officers. This was news indeed ! This 
was an event worthy of particular respect, and we 
hastened back to prepare our guns for a salute. As his 
Excellency landed on the beach, he received a yankee 
welcome, and that alone ; for the " Dieginos " were 
without powder, and the guns of the fort were dis- 
mounted. 

Soon afterwards I visited the town, and called upon 
the General. The conversation between us resulted in 
my learning that he was " Don Manuel Micheltorena, 
Comandante General y Gefe politico de la Alta Cali- 
fornia." He had been in the celebrated campaign with 
Santa Anna against the Texians, and was now des- 
patched by his government to fulfil the arduous duties, 
which had for nearly six years so much perplexed the 
Californians. Three vessels were daily expected with 
troops, and ammunition. They had left Mazatlan in 
company, and might be looked for every moment. 

Five days afterwards, the brig "Chato" arrived, with 
ninety soldiers and their famihes. I saw them land, 
and to me they presented a sta^e of wretchedness and 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. * 207 

misery unequalled. Not one individual among them 
possessed a jacket or pantaloons ; but naked, and like 
the savage IndianSj they concealed their nudity with 
dirty, miserable blankets. The females were not much 
better off; for the scantiness of their mean apparel was 
too apparent for modest observers. They appeared 
like convicts ; and, indeed, the greater portion of them 
had been charged with the crime either of murder or 
theft. And these were the soldiei^s sent to subdue this 
happy country ! These were the valiant followers of a 
heroic General, who had fought on the battle field, 
where he had gained laurels for himself and country ! 
These were to be the enforcers of justice and good gov- 
ernment ! Alas ! poor California ! when such are to be 
thy ministers, thou art indeed fallen ! The remainder 
of the "convict army" arrived in course of time, and I 
had an opportunity of seeing them all, afterwards, at 
the Pueblo, w^hen on their route towards Monterey, 
the seat of government. They mustered about three 
hundred and fifty men, and their General had given 
them, since their arrival, a neat uniform of white linen. 
Here, their stay was protracted, in order to drill, and 
prepare for service, in case of opposition from Senor Al- 
varado. Day after day, the place resounded with the 
noise of the trumpet and the drums ; and a level spot, 
on the river's margin, was the scene of military manoeu- 
vres. At night, the gardens and vineyards were plun- 
dered, and the neighboring farms suffered greatly, from 
the frequency of the soldiers' visits. 



208 '■ LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

During these acts of the mUitary, and the detention 
of Micheltoiena in " los Angeles," grand preparations 
were making at Santa Barbara for his reception there. 
A liberal subscription was raised by some of the prin- 
cipal inhabitants, and measures were taken accordingly. 

A large enclosure was made for the exhibition of 
bull-fighting, and a profusion of good things was pro- 
vided for a dinner and " Fandango." The day ap- 
pointed, at length, came, but no General was there to 
participate in the festivities. The foreigners, who had 
contributed to the preparations, were not to be cheated 
out of their amusement, and some of them proposed 
carrying into immediate effect, the object of their sub- 
scription. They were readily joined by the Cahfor- 
nians, and the following day was selected for the enter- 
tainment. 

, A bull-fight in California is far different from the 
brutal exhibitions of Spain and Mexico. Here, the bull 
is not killed, or lacerated ; the object of the amusement 
being merely the exhibition of equestrian performances. 
All the young bachelors are expected to be present, 
which generally secures a full attendance of ladies, who 
stand on stages and platforms erected around the en- 
closure, ready to bestow their smiles and approbation on 
those of their choice ; hence the waving of handker- 
chiefs and shawls is incessant. 

When si bull enters, (it being customary to admit 
only one at a time) he usually rushes in as if ready to 
attack anything before him, till the shouts of the mul- 



LIFE IN CALIFORXIA. 209 

titude, and the confused fluttering of scarfs, shawls and 
ribbons, disconcert the animal, and he retires to the 
least occupied part of the square, where he remains paw- 
ing up the earth. Presently, a horseman comes forth, 
with a scarlet cloak, or gaudy " serape," which he waves 
toward the bull ; the animal rushes at the object, and 
the skill of the rider consists in avoiding a collision. 
Sometimes a dozen riders are thus in the area at once, 
and in the confusion, it not unfrequently happens that 
a horse is gored, or a rider thrown. The more valiant 
appear on foot ; and as they nimbly escape danger, or 
boldly throw themselves into it, the interest is exceeding- 
ly increased. When one bull is worn out with fatigue, 
another is let in to take his place; and occasionally a 
rocket or squib is thrown to excite his fury. The boys, 
on horseback, await to receive the harassed creature 
as he is let out, to drive him off outside of the town : 
and in his retreat he is sure to be overturned by them 
at least half a dozen times. 

The " Fandango " followed the bull-fight ; and the 
company showed, by their hilarity, that no regret was 
felt for the non-arrival of Micheltorena. 

Several days afterwards, while the Mexican forces 
occupied the mission of San Fernando, orders, from the 
General, were received by the civil authorities of Santa 
Barbara, directing them to prepare quarters for his offi- 
cers and soldiers, who were on the eve of marching for 
that place. Other intelligence immediately followed 
this important notice of Micheltorena, which not only 

19* 



210 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

excited the Californians, and terrified the Mexicans, but 
astonished the world ! This was the capture of Mon- 
terey by the American squadron, under command of 
Commodore Jones ! 

As I lay slumbering in my bed at the house of Senor 
Noriega, at midnight, on the 24th October, 1842, I was 
suddenly aroused and alarmed, by the abrupt entrance 
of a person into my host's apartment, adjoining my 
own. It was his son, who in quick succession rat- 
tled forth the following — " Los Americanos han tornado 
a Monterey ! Una Escuadra Americana esta fondeada 
en el Puerto ! Guerra con Mexico !" etc. " The 
Americans have taken Monterey ! A squadron is at 
anchor in the port ! War with Mexico !" " Wheugh ! 
here's a go !" said I. " What is the matter ? What is 
all this you are talking about ?" " Talking about," 
said he, " why, we are going to cut the throats of all 
you Yankees !" " Look here !" he continued, (as he 
entered my room and handed me a copy of the proceed- 
ings drawn up at the Capital, with the Proclamation 
of the Commodore), " read this !" I did so, and saw 
the reason for such a movement. Mexico had declared 
an unjust war. Monterey had capitulated on the 
twentieth, when the Americans took possession, and 
hoisted the " stars and stripes." 

The news soon spread abroad, and at daylight, 
groups were assembled at different places, discussing 
the affair. The Americans were elated, and some of 
the most wealthy of the Californians seemed not dis- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 211 

pleased that they were to have a government more sta- 
ble than that under which they had been living. 
" Will they meddle with our farms ?" " Will they in- 
terfere with our religion ?" " Will they trouble us 
in any way?" These were the questions asked, and 
replied to in the negative. The large guns in the 
Presidio were dismounted and buried, the garrison 
sought the protection of Micheltorena, and the place 
was promptly abandoned to the Americans ! 

What was our surprise, when, on the day following, 
a courier brought the intelligence " that the w^ar was a 
mistake .'" that the town of Monterey had been restored 
to the Mexican authorities, and friendly salutes had 
passed between the fort and the shipping ! 

Alvarado, who was still Governor and in command 
at Monterey, observed at the time of capitulation, that 
he preferred a surrender to the Americans, to the de- 
grading necessity of submission to the newly-arrived 
Mexican General, who had been sent by the Mexican 
Government to supersede him. 

Micheltorena was at a " rancho," about nine leagues 
to the north of the mission of San Fernando, when he 
received the first information of the war, and he re- 
treated precipitately to the Pueblo. The valiant forces 
of this courageous Mexican General never travelled 
faster ! 

They halted not tilt sheltered in the midst of " los 
Angeles." This, I presume, was the ^^ forced march^'* 
which Micheltorena took to repel the invasion of Mon- 



212 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

lerey ! and which he afterwards mentioned in his state- 
ment of the affair to his Government. 

The war being over, every thing was restored to its 
former quiet state. Micheltorena finally reached Mon- 
terey, and continued his administration of the Govern- 
ment without opposition, till the Cahfornians were em- 
boldened, a third time, to make a stand for independ- 
ence. 

Sometime during the month of November, 1844, the 
disaffected people of the north, headed by Yallejo, Cas- 
tro and Alvarado, took possession of the mission of San 
Juan ; where the wisdom of Micheltorena had induced 
him to place his ammunition stores, to prevent their 
falling into the liands of the Yankees, in the event of 
another invasion by sea. 

A proclamation was issued by the Governor allowing 
eight days for the rebels to lay down their arms. Mi- 
cheltorena went forth to meet them ; parleying com- 
menced, and ended in a treaty, favorable to both par- 
ties. After the expiration of a few days, each party 
produced a treaty that was denied by the other, and the 
Californians again assembled, and prepared to invade 
the town of Monterey. On the 6th January, 1845, the 
General, with his soldiers, left the place, and was joined 
by Captain Sutter, and one hundred foreigners, most 
of them settlers on the river Sacramento ; besides about 
seventy Indians, who had been taught the use of fire- 
arms. The whole proceeded in pursuit of Castro, who 
had fled to the town of " los Angeles," which is situated 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 213 



t 



four hundred miles to the southward. Owing to the 
protracted movements of Micheltorena, who made on 
some days but three or four miles progress, it was forty 
days ere he arrived in the vicinity of the town, and 
consequently, the foreigners had become discouraged, 
and nearly all left him. This gave time for Castro to 
increase his numbers ; which having done he returned, 
and met the government forces. On the 21st of Feb- 
ruary the parties came in sight, when a few shots were 
interchanged, which fell harmless on both sides. The 
day following, the cannonading again commenced, and 
resulted in the surrender of the Mexican General. 

It was reported that four persons were killed, several 
wounded, and some horses shot. Castro had, with his 
party, about fifty foreigners from the south. At the 
commencement of the action, the foreigners on both 
sides, by agreement, retired from their several parties, 
and left them to fight the battle alone, whrch accounts 
for the small number killed, and the speedy victory. 

Senor Pio Pico, being the oldest member of the state 
" Diputacion," was declared Governor, and Don Jose 
Castro was appointed " Comandante General." 

Micheltorena, his officers, and soldiers, with the ex- 
ception of a few, who had married in the country, were 
put on board of the American barque Don Quixote, and 
taken to San Bias. 

The last accounts from Monterey were up to June 
18th, 1845. Pio Pico still continued Gov^ernor of the 
country. It was said that another General had been 



214 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA, 

f 

appointed, who was expected from Mazatlan, with eigh- 
teen hundred men. Funds, to the amount of seventy 
thousand dollars, had been deposited for him with a 
merchant in that place ; and two wealthy persons in 
Tepic, had bound themselves to make good the pay- 
ment of the officers and troops. This may, or may not, 
be true. It cost the treasury more than seventy thou- 
sand dollars to place Micheltorena in St. Diego, and it 
will cost, at this rate, over two hundred thousand to 
send such a force as is now in preparation. 

Since closing this work for publication, I have re- 
ceived further information from California, by letters, 
dated October 1st, 1845. A friend writes thus : " The 
country never was in a more disorderly, miserable 
condition, than at the present moment. We have no 
government. Pio Pico, who was nominally Governor, 
has been arrested and imprisoned. The people at the ^1 
north, as usual, are opposed to those of the south, and 
will be satisfied with none other than Alvarado, for chief 
magistrate. Two commissioners have arrived from 
Mexico, to ascertain why the Mexicans were expelled. 
The soldiers from Mazatlan, have not arrived ; but we 
understand that one thousand men and four vessels are 
preparing for the expedition." 



CONCLUSION 



The writer, in the preceding chapters, has given a 
correct and impartial account of the peculiar character 
of California and its inhabitants. A portion of the 
country, however, most interesting in its natural fea- 
tures, has been, perhaps, but too little dwelt upon ; it is 
that, embracing the extensive Bay of St. Francisco, 
into which flow the waters from the Sacramento, San 
Joaquin, Jesus Maria, and other lesser streams. The 
surrounding country, diversified by hills and plains, is 
very beautiful ; the soil is rich and heavily timbered ; 
and the high mountains which rise around are thickly 
adorned with cedar trees. There are extensive prairies 
also ; and large tracts of excellent tillage ground on tlie 
banks of the rivers. It is the grand region for coloni- 
zation ; and if peopled by our industrious backwoods- 
men, who are gradually emigrating from the Western 
States, it must hold, in a very few years, a conspicuous 
station among the nations of the earth. Its locations 
are well adapted to purposes of agriculture, and such is 
its mildness of climate, that all the tropical fruits might 
be raised there, if cultivated. The large rivers are nav- 
igable for steamboats, for more than one hundred miles, 



216 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

and are well stocked with salmon and other fish. The 
cold, blustering winds, and disagreeable temperature of 
the climate, alluded to by other writers, are solely con- 
fined to the lands adjacent to the seacoast ; for, a very 
few leagues beyond the limits of " Yerba Buena," we 
find a totally different atmosphere. 

As the traveller proceeds south from St. Francisco, he 
passes through a similar description of country till be- 
yond Monterey ; when the plains become more con- 
tracted, and less fertile, till he is forced at last upon a 
hard sandy beach. Riding through httle openings 
among the hills, he enters again upon wider strips of 
land, as the mountains retreat from the sea. In this 
way he may continue towards St. Diego, day after day, 
the face of the country varying, until it becomes barren, 
and cheerless. 

There is a vast extent of land, however, beyond the 
mountains, which is but imperfectly known to the Cal- 
ifornians. This has been repeatedly visited by foreign- 
ers, who have said much in its favor. It is unoccupied, 
and is the only part of California, with the exception of 
land north and east of San Francisco, that is attaina- 
ble, for the purpose of colonization. All that portion 
that is within twenty or thirty miles of the seacoast, is, 
at present, either occupied by cattle farms, or by the 
much restricted possessions of the n^issions. 

Now, that Upper CaHfornia remains in its unsettled 
t^tate, it opens a field for immigration, and the unfriendly 
feelings of its inhabitants towards Mexico, will, undoubt- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 217 

edly, lead them to favor other nations. tSt. Francisco^ 
theUj is the point, as also the lands around the bay, the 
banks of the Sacramento, and Jesus Maria. These are 
the best lands, and are v\ ell calculated for the raising 
of wheat and other grains, and for the rearing of 
cattle. Tliese immense tracts of land, and the facility 
of water intercourse between them and the bay, by riv- 
ers and creeks, render their situation highly important. 

The white population of Alta California, may be esti- 
mated at about eight thousand, and the Indian, which 
in 1829 amounted to over thirty chousand, will now 
scarcely number ten — while the former has increased, 
the latter has rapidly diminished. This may be owing 
to various causes : — The abject state to which the mis- 
sionary establisliments have become reduced, — the con- 
sequent partial abandonment of them, — the introduction 
of vice and disease, — and the Indian likewise being left 
to provide for his own necessities. Dependent, as he 
had been for years, on the care of his spiritual Father, 
he took no thought of the morrow, but lived on, in a 
state of recklessness which unfitted him for any other 
condition. This indifference of character led him into 
every kind of immorality, and he has plunged headlong 
into the destruction which so naturally followed. 

Until recently, the Government has held out no en- 
couragement whatever to immigrants. The lands on the 
seacoast, having been principally occupied by the mis- 
sions, gave no room for the introduction of foreign set- 
tlers, so that but very few have obtained a footing, in 

20 



218 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

California, except at places remote from the ports and 
harbors. To secure lands for farming purposes, it was 
in former years, necessary to get the written con- 
sent of the missionary under whose control they were, 
ere the government could give legitimate possession, 
therefore their acquisition depended entirely upon the 
good will of the Friar. It may be justly supposed, that 
by this restriction, the advancement of California was 
rather retarded. So it was ! for the immigrant was 
placed at the mercy of a prejudiced missionary who 
might be averse to any thing hke secular improvement ; 
for although these religionists were generally possessed 
of generous feelings, still, many of them v/ere ex- 
tremely jealous of an infringement upon the interests of 
their institutions. In fact, the abundance with which 
the missions were stored, and the bountiful distribution 
of their yearly productions by the missionaries, rendered 
any exertion on the part of the Californian unnecessary 
for his support, and but few persons cared for the means 
of independence, preferring idleness to industry and im- 
provement. No officer in the Spanish service could 
marry without special license from his Gathohc Mg,jesty ; 
thus, the increase of colonization was easily regulated, 
which accounts for the limited number of colonists in 
the country. 

After the Mexicans had adopted the republican form 
of government, orders were received for the Uberation 
of the Indians, and the missionaries were directed to 
apportion to each one, a certain quantity of land, for 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 219 

their maintenaace. Prom this time, the white inhabi- 
tant began to turn his attention, more particularly, to 
agriculture, and the immense tracts of land that were 
occupied by the missions, were mostly divided into nu- 
merous farms. x\.t first, the change was considered dis- 
astrous to the prosperity of California, and the wanton 
destruction of property which followed, seemed to war- 
rant the conclusion ; but the result, however, proved 
quite the contrary. Individual enterprise, which succeed- 
ed, has placed the country in a more flourishing condi- 
tion, and the wealth, instead of being confined to the 
monastic institutions, as before, has been distributed 
among the people. 

The liberality of the Oahfornians, since their first op- 
position to Mexico, has induced many foreigners to set- 
tle in the country, and several hundreds of Americans 
may be already found located at diflferent points. Their 
industrious habits have procured for them many very 
promising settlements, where the lands, under judicious 
management, produce abundance, and contribute greatly 
to the beauty of the surrounding country. 

Agriculture, as may be supposed, has not much im- 
proved since its first introduction by the Spanish friars ; 
for the same modes of cultivation are still adhered to, 
which they introduced at the commencement of their la- 
bors in Cahfornia. 

The grains principally cultivated are wheat, barley, 
maize, and several kinds of beans or frijoles, as they 
are called, by the natives. Oats are not raised for any 



220 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

purpose whatever, but they grow spontaneously on 
the prairies, and upon the hills, where they are left to 
dry and rot with the yearly pasturage. The sowing of 
grain commences in November, when the rains set in ; 
and the harvest is in the months of July and August. 
Owing to inattention, perhaps, in procuring good seed, 
their wlieat is not so fine as it might be ; for in no 
part of the world, can be found a soil and climate, bet- 
ter adapted to its production. 

Most kinds of vegetables are raised in gardens, and 
there is hardly a house in the country that has not its 
small patch of ground devoted to that purpose. 

Both flax and hemp have been raised in California, 
and also cotton, to considerable advantage. The vine 
is thrifty, and is cultivated every vvdiere ; from which is 
made very excellent wine and brandy. 

Notwithstanding the iimnense number of domestic 
annuals in the country, it is rather surprising that the 
Californians give so little attention to the dair}-. Butter 
and cheese are extremely scarce, and but seldom used ; 
and I have known instances, in which a proprietor of 
three or four tbousand cows, has been obliged to send 
ail over the village where he resided, to obtain milk for 
his family. From tbis circumstance, it may be sup- 
posed that they are totally ignorant of its value : — -not 
so ; for since the introduction of foreign settlers, they 
have been well instructed in the art of making both 
butter and cheese ; and it is only from sheer indolence, 
that these articles are not more plentiful. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 221 

In the intercourse between California and the Sand- 
wich Islands, which has considerably increased in latter 
years, large quantities of wheat, beans, flour, clieese, 
and soap, have been annually exported from the for- 
mer ; the proceeds of which have usually returned in a 
variety of goods from the English and American mar- 
kets. 

The trade with Cahfornia is, however, confined prin- 
cipally to American ships, direct from the United States ; 
for they have but two or three small vessels of their 
own, and not more than twenty or thirty on the whole 
extent of the Mexican coast ! 

The Cahfornians have made several attempts to rid 
themselves of the Mexicans, as has been related in the 
preceding chapters ; and they were left for several years 
without interference on the part of the Mexican Gov- 
ernment ; so that not until this interference was sought 
by them, did it again attempt any control over their 
country. The distance between California and Mexico 
renders it easy to effect a separation, provided there 
could be found sufficient unity among the Cahfornians ; 
for a very small number could successfully resist any 
attacks made by such a power as Mexico. "The shores 
of the Mexican Republic," says A. Forbes, Esq., " on 
the Pacific, are ill calculated for maintaining any mari- 
time force ; it has none at present ; and from its unheal- 
thy situation, scarcity of materials and want of sailors 
or maritime enterprise, it is not likely ever to have on 
the Pacific any formidable navy." These remarks 

20* 



222 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

compared with the following, relative to the situation 
of California, serve to prove its advantages. " Califor- 
nia," he says, " is calculated, in an eminent degree, to 
become a maritime power ; its coasts are healthy ; its 
harbors excellent ; and its capacity to produce materials 
for ship-building and marine stores is almost without 
limits. If, therefore, there should ever exist a sufficient 
population to maintain a separate sovereignty, or the 
occupiers of the country be of a quality and character 
capable of taking advantage of those resources, Mexico, 
instead of being able to reduce California, would be 
obliged to succumb." 

The natural resources of Cahfornia may have drawn 
the attention of the British Government to its importance, 
and fears were entertained by them, at one time, that the 
Russians, who were settled upon its northern frontier, 
would either encroach upon, or take entire possession of 
it. These fears, how^ever, proved groundless, for the Rus- 
sians have, for the last three or four years, abandoned 
the settlement. In commenting upon this, Mr. Forbes 
says, " The danger does not lie there — there is another 
restless and enterprising neighbor, from whom they wdll 
most probably soon have to defend themselves, or rather 
to submit to ; for although the frontiers of North Amer- 
ica are much more distant than the Russians, yet to such 
men as the back settlers, distance is of little moment, and 
they are already well acquainted wnth the route. The 
northern American tide of population must roll on south- 
ward, and overwhelm, not only California, but other more 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 223 

important states. This latter event, however, is in the 
womb of time ; but the invasion of California by Amer- 
ican settlers is daily talked of; and if Santa Anna had 
prevailed against Texas, a portion of the inhabitants of 
that countiy, sufficient to overrun California, w^ould now 
have been its masters," 

That the British Government have had interested views 
in relation to California, is also intimated by Mr. Forbes, 
who says, •' There have been some thoughts of proposing 
to the Mexican Government that it should endeavor to 
cancel the English debt, which now exceeds fifty millions 
of dollars, by a transfer of California to the creditors. 
This would be a wise measure on the part of Mexico, if 
the government could be brought to lay aside the vanity 
of retaining large possessions. The cession of such a 
disjointed part of the republic as California would be an 
advantage. In no case can it ever be profitable to the 
Mexican republic, nor can it possibly remain united to it 
for any length of time, if it should even be induced to re- 
join this state, from which at present it is, to all intents 
and purposes, separated. Therefore, by giving up this 
territory for the debt, would be getting rid of this last for 
nothing. But would the English creditors accept of it? 
I think they might, and I think they ought. They have 
lately displayed an inclination to treat and receive lands 
as a part of the debt where no lands exist belonging to 
Mexico. In the settlement made with Lizardi and Co. 
as agents for the Mexican Government in London, lands 
are stipulated to be delivered at a certain price per acre, 



224 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

in Texas, in which Mexico does not possess an acre, in 
the state of New Mexico, which is many hundred leagues 
inland m Sonora, and God knows where. To the good 
fortune, however, of the English creditors this contract 
has been disapproved of by the Mexican Government^ 
and it is hoped that some more rational scheme will be 
hit upon to give the creditors some sort of tangible secu- 
rity for at least a part of what they have been so scan- 
dalously fleeced out of If California was ceded for the 
English debt, the creditors might be formed into a com- 
pany, w ith rthe difference that they should have a sort 
of sovereignty over the territory, somewhat in the man- 
ner of the East India Company. This, in my opinion, 
would certainly bring a revenue in time, which might be 
equal to the interest of the debt, and, under good man- 
agement, and with an Enghsh population, would most 
certainly realize all that has been predicted of this fine 
country." 

Gold and silver mines have been found in Upper 
California, from which, considerable quantities of ore 
have been obtained : skilful miners are only required, 
to make them profitable. It is said that coal has re- 
xrently been discovered ; which, if true, will greatly fa- 
cilitate the introduction of steam navigation in the Pa- 
cific, and be the means of making Cahfornia one of the 
most important commercial positions on the west coast 
of America ; particularly, if ever a communication 
should be opened by means of a canal across the Isth- 
mus of Panama. That such an event may transpircj 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 225 

is not improbable ; the day is not far distant, perhaps, 
when it will be reahzed, and one may visit this fertile 
and interesting country, and return to the United 
States, in one half of the time now required for the 
long and tedious outward navigation. 

The resources of California, its magnificent harbors, 
climate, and abundance of naval stores, would make it 
the rendezvous for all the steamers engaged in the 
trade, between Europe and the East Indies, as well as 
those from the United States ; and the facilities for 
emigration would be such, that soon the whole western 
coast of North America would be settled by emigrants, 
both from this country and Europe. 

During the anarchy which existed in past years, 
throughout this fertile country, there were many of the 
native Californians who would have been thankful for the 
protection of either England or America ; and indeed, a 
great many desired it, in preference to the detested ad- 
ministration of Mexico. Perhaps, there are many who 
still feel as they did then : and in this age of " Annex- 
ation," why not extend the " area of freedom " by the 
annexation of California ? Why not plant the banner 
of liberty there, in the fortress, at the entrance of the 
noble, the spacious bay of San Francisco ? It requires 
not the far-reaching eye of the statesman, nor the wis- 
dom of a contemplative mind, to know what would be 
the result. Soon its immense sheet of water would be- 
come enlivened with thousands of vessels, and steam- 
boats would ply between the towns, which, as a matter 



226 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

of course, would spring up on its shores. While on other 
locations, along the banks of the rivers, would be seen 
manufactories and saw-mills. The whole country 
would be changed, and instead of one's being deemed 
wealthy by possessing such extensive tracts as are now 
held by the farming class, he would be rich with one 
quarter part. Every thing would improve ; population 
would increase ; consumption would be greater, and in- 
dustry would follow. 

All this may come to pass ; and indeed, it must come 
to pass, for the march of emigration is to the West, and 
naught will arrest its advance but the mighty ocean. 



CHOI&CHmiCH 




.^, , ^^-^^^^^^^^ 



'"^^ 



^•*'^. 



FATHER GKRONIMil BOSGANA 

Mi.iSIDNAKY M ^1 JUAN C AP 1 S TR AND. 



CHINI&CHINICH; 

A 

HISTORICAL ACCOUNT 

OF THE 

ORIGIN, CUSTOMS, AND TRADITIONS 

OP THE INDIANS AT THE MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENT 

OF ST. JUAN CAPISTRANO, ALTA CALIFORNIA; 

CALLED 

THE ACAGCHEMEM NATION; 

COLLECTED WITH THE GREATEST CARE, FROM THE MOST INTELLIGENT 
AND BEST INSTRUCTED IN THE MATTER. 

BY THE 

REVEREND FATHER FRIAR GERONIMO BOSCANA, 

OF THE ORDER OF SAINT FRANCISCO, 
APOSTOLIC MISSIONARY AT SAID MISSION. 

TRANSLATED FROM 

THE ORiaiNAL SPANISH MANUSORIBT, 

BY ONE WHO WAS MANY YEARS A RESIDENT 
OF ALTA CALIFORNIA. 



I 



NEW YORK : 
PUBLISHED BY WILEY & PUTNAM, 

No. 161 BROADWAY. 

1846. 



^ 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

PAOK 

Of what race are these Indians? ..... 237 

CHAPTER II. 

Of the Creation of the World, 242 

CHAPTER III. 

Of the Creation of the World according to the belief of those re- 
siding on the sea-coast, 249 

CHAPTER IV. 

Description of the " Vanquech ," or Temple, .... 258 

CHAPTER V. 
Obedience and subjection to their Captain, .... 264 

CHAPTER VI. 

The instruction given to their Children, 270 

CHAPTER VII. 
Of Matrimony, 278 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Of their mode of Life and Occupation, 285 

CHAPTER IX. 

Of their principal Feasts and Dances, 289 

CHAPTER X. 

Of many of their Extravagances, ...... 296 



234 translator's introduction. 

write. They have been careful to preserve the traditions 
and customs of their ancestors, and are permitted to indulge 
in the observance of them, on their feast days, which occur 
several times during the year. Thus, I have had frequent 
opportunities to witness many of the absurdities, and extrav- 
agances, described by Father Boscana. 

The manuscript ends rather abruptly ; and it is uncertain 
if the holy Father ever intended it for publication. After 
his death, in 1831, it was found among his effects, with other 
writings, which came into the possession of the Syndic of the 
Missions, who kindly presented it to me. The reader will 

decide as to its merits. 

A. R. 



INTRODUCTION. 



The motives which have induced me to write the present 
history, have been, principally, to fulfil my obligations as 
Apostolical Missionary ; to have before me the means of pre- 
senting to these poor Indians an account of the errors enter- 
tained by them during their state of heathenism, and to contrast 
the same with the light they now enjoy as Christians. Also, 
to leave to my successors such instruction, as will relieve 
them from the trouble and labor that I experienced, in 
procuring a knowledge of the belief, usages, and customs, 
i. e. the Religion, which these natives possessed in their hea- 
then state ; persuaded as I am, that being ignorant of this, 
it will be difficult to remove their erroneous belief, and give 
them an understanding of the true Religion. It is difficult, I 
confess, if unacquainted with their language, to penetrate 
their secrets, as they do not all understand the signification 
of their usages and customs ; this knowledge being confined 
to the chiefs of their tribes, and the old men who officiate as 
priests ; and when they reveal any thing, to their children, 
it is only to such as they intend to rear for their successors, 
and these, are enjoined to keep fast the secrets, and not com- 
municate them to any one, under pain of severe chastisement. 
A veil is cast over all their religious observances, and the 
mystery with which they are performed, seems to perpetuate 
respect for them, and preserve an ascendancy over the people. 
This is the reason that the ceremonies of the dances, in their 
grand feasts, (which are properly exercises of religion,) can- 
not be understood. They have never had the use of wri- 



236 INTRODUCTION. 

tings, letters, or characters of any description. All their 
knowledge is from tradition, which they preserve in songs 
for their dances, and these are introduced, by the chief, at 
their festivities, in a language distinct from that, in common 
use. Others unite with them, but without understanding the 
meaning of what they do, or articulate ; perhaps, the songs 
thus introduced, are in the primitive language. 

Perchance, some one may enquire, how I have obtained 
so much information, relative to the secrets or religion of 
these natives, when, up to the present time, no other Father 
has written on the subject. 

We are to suppose it a truth, that there are many things 
hidden, not only, in the Divine Prophecies, but in human 
events, also, which cannot be comprehended, or known but 
by the Divine Will ; and as God, almost always, makes use 
of the most humble instruments for his purpose, to me, he 
assigned three aged Indians, the youngest of whom was over 
seventy years of age. They knew all the secrets, for two 
of them were Capitanes, and the other a Pul, who were well 
instructed in the mysteries. By gifts, endearments, and 
kindness, I elicited from them their secrets, with their expla- 
nations ; and, by witnessing the ceremonies which they per- 
formed, I learned, by degrees, their mysteries. Thus, by 
devoting a portion of the nights to profound meditation, and 
comparing their actions with their disclosures, I was enabled, 
after a long time, to acquire a knowledge of their religion. 
There are yet, many things, which I do not understand, be- 
cause they have not been disclosed to me, with that clear- 
ness that I could wish, but, always so confusedly, that I was 
unable to penetrate their meaning. 



CHIJNIGCHINICH 



CHAPTER I. 

OF WHAT RACE OF PEOPLE ARE THESE INDIANS ? 

To commence this relation, it may be proper, in the 
first place, to search after the origin, or lineage of these 
Indians of New California. But it is impossible to iind 
any account of where they originated ; as those of this 
mission, (St. Juan Capistrano) and indeed those of all 
the missions in the province, have no tradition, and are 
entirely ignorant of their descent. Without examining 
into the opinion of others, as to their being descendants 
of the Jews, Carthagenians or Phoenicians, I shall con- 
line myself to the class that came to populate the Mex- 
ican Territory, and from these have doubtless descend- 
ed the natives of Cahfornia. 

The tribes that populated the Mexican Territory at 
different epochs, according to the writings of Father 
Torquemada in his " Monarquia Indiana," were four ; 
and as follows : " Tulticas," " Chichimecas," '• Aculnas," 



238 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF [^ 

and " Mexicanos." Of these distinct tribes, my opin- 
ion is, that the race of California proceeded from the 
Chichimecas, because, from the Tulticas they could not 
have originated, as is manifest from their characters, and 
inchnations ; for " Tultica" signifies Art, and these In- 
dians do not manifest the least industry or ingenuity. 
They are, in every respect, like the Chichimecas, ac- 
cording to the description given of them by Father Tor- 
quemada. " Near the northern boundary of Mexico there 
was a province, the principal city of which was called 
Amaqueme ; its inhabitants, Chichimecas, were people 
entirely naked, fierce in appearance, and great warriors. 
Their arms the bow and arrows ; their ordinary suste- 
nance game and wild fruits, and their habitations were 
caves, or huts made of straw. As it was their manner 
of life habitually to roam about among the mountains, 
in search of game, they paid but little or no attention 
to the art of building." This is the picture given by 
Father Torquemada of the Chichimecas, and compar- 
ing them with the natives of California, they are found 
the same in every respect. 

Although the habitations of the said Chichimecas 
formed a kind of village, still they had no pohce, nor 
acknowledged any higher power than that of '^ Capitan" 
or chief, and toward him was observed but little respect ; 
indeed, hardly sufficient to designate him from the rest. 
They did not live permanently in one place, but roamed 
about, from spot to spot, as the scarcity of game com- 
pelled them. Of medicine they had no knowledge ; 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 239 

consequently, no means of curing the sick, and the bod- 
ies of their dead were inniiediately burnt. Idolatry pre- 
vailed among them, but not a belief in a plurality of 
gods ; neither did they sacrifice, as was the custom 
among the Mexican Indians. 

Having thus described the Chichimecas, we see pre- 
cisely the character of the Californians, with the excep- 
tion, that the last mentioned lived in villages, and were 
governed by a chief, whom they entitled " Not," signi- 
fying lord, or master ; he possessed but little influence 
over his subjects, and they in return entertained no res- 
pect for his authority, as we shall see hereafter. The 
name, CJiichimeca^ signifies a "sucker." TVieir prin- 
cipal sustenance was the flesh of animals taken in hunt- 
ing excursions, and which was generally consumed in 
its raw state, after sucking all the blood ; and from this, 
arose the term Chichimeca. 

Tlie Californian, often made his repast from the un- 
cooked animal, and at the present day, flesh, very 
slightly cooked, is quite common among them. They 
also extract the blood in like manner, and I have seen 
many instances of their taking a rabbit, and sucking its 
blood with eagerness, previous to consuming the flesh 
in a crude state. The diversities of language, and 
other peculiarities, render it extremely diflftcult to ascer- 
tain to a certainty, if all the inhabitants of Alta Cali- 
fornia descended from the Chichimecas. Those be- 
tv/een Monterey and the extreme northern boundary 
o!' the Mexican domain, shave their heads close; while 



W^ 



,240 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

those to the south, between Santa Barbara anr] towards 
St. Lucas, wear then- hair long, and take pride in culti- 
vating its length as a mark of beauty. Those between 
Santa Barbara and Monterey, differ considerably from 
these, as regards their habits ; being much more indus- 
trious, and appear an entirely distinct race. They 
formed, from shells, a kind of money, which passed cur- 
rent among them, and they constructed, out of logs, very 
swift and excellent canoes- for fishing. Their dead, 
they interred in places appropriated to that purpose. 
The diversity of language is so great, in California, 
that almost every 15 or 20 leagues, you find a distinct 
dialect ; so different, that in no way does one resemble 
the other. It is natural to suppose, that the Chichi- 
meca nation, would have had but one language, not- 
withstanding, it might have varied a little, from one 
place to another, as is seen in other parts of the world, 
where are to be met with certain provinciahsms, which 
are not to be found in the original tongue. But here, 
it is not so ; for the natives of St. Diego cannot under- 
stand a word of the language used in this mission, and 
in like manner, those in the neighborhood of St. Bar- 
bara, and farther north. If it should be suggested,tha 
people thus separated, could have corrupted the original 
language, in all its phraseology, and manner of pro- 
nunciation, I would reply, that such might be the case ; 
but still, there would be some connection, or similarity, 
so that they could understand each other. This has 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. C41 

placed me somewhat in perplexity ; and I am without 
means of discovering the cause of such dissimilarity in 
a spot, confined like California ; and I shall leave the 
subject to some of my brother missionaries, or to those 
who may peruse these writings, to explain. 

22 



242 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 



CHAPTER II. 

ON THE CREATION OF THE WORLD. 

Although this chapter has for its title, the creation 
of the world, the reader must not suppose it has any 
relation to the account given by Moses in the first chap- 
ter of Genesis. I do not intend any such thing ; but 
merely to make known the belief of these Indians in 
their heathen state. We must not be surprised, if there 
be found many contradictions and extravagances ; for 
these rude Indians were ignorant of the true God, with- 
out faith, without law, or king, and governed by their 
own natural ideas, or by tradition ; we should, therefore, 
not wonder at their inconsistencies, and want of dis- 
cernment to discriminate the truth from falsehood ; for, 
deprived of the light of the Gospel, they ever walked 
in heathen darkness. Before I commence with their 
ideas of the world's origin, I must premise, that the 
Indians of this particular location (the mission of St. 
Juan Capistrano) account for the creation of the world 
in one way, and those of the interior (about 3 or 4 
leagues distant) in another. In substance the same. 
One, as fabulous as the other. For this reason I will 
give both relations, and commence, in the first place, 
with the account of those in the interior. 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 243 

Their belief is this : before this world was, there ex- 
isted one above, and another belotv. These two were 
brother and sister. The one above, signified the heav- 
ens, and the one below, represented the earth. But the 
heaven and earth here mentioned, were not as they ap- 
pear 71010 to us, but of another nature, which they 
could not explain. We may, therefore, consider them 
as imaginary. All below was dark, without sun, moon, 
or stars. The brother came unto the sister, and brouo-ht 
the light, which is the sun, saying he would take her unto 
him to wife ; she resisted, reminding him of their affin- 
ity, and desired that he would return and leave her in 
peace. But in time they were wedded, and the first- 
fruits of their union were earth and sand. After which, 
were produced rocks and stones of all kinds, particularly 
flints, for their arrows ; then, trees and shrubbery ; next, 
herbs and grass ; and again, animals, principally the kind 
which they eat. Finally, was born one that they called 
Ouiot. This was an animated being. The father 
and mother of Ouiot were not mortals, as we said be- 
fore, but were of a nature they could not explain. This 
said Ouiot had children, and was king, or grand cap- 
tain of the first family ; and, as 1 understand it, we are 
to suppose them, like their parent, a species of animal, 
distinct from any which now inhabit the earth ; or, in 
other words, imaginary phantoms. Upon enquiring 
how this grand captain could have had children, and 
what was the name of his partner, they could not ex- 



244 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP 

plain ; but he had children, and many, both male and 
female. 

As Captain Ouiofs descendants multiplied, the first 
born of his mother, (the earth,) increased in size, and 
extended itself to the south ; (it will be well to state 
here, that it is the general behef of the Indians that 
they originated in the north) and as they increased the 
earth continued to augment. Captain Ouiot having 
become aged, his eldest vassals formed a conspiracy to 
destroy him ; alleging as a reason for so doing, that his 
years prevented his attending to their wants ; and, in 
fact, that he was too old to govern. A consultation was 
held, to resolve upon what method to carry into execu- 
tion their designs, and it was decided that he should be 
poisoned. They mixed a poisonous ingredient in his 
beverage, and administered it to him. After drinking 
of this he immediately became sick, and left the moun- 
tains where he had lived, and resorted to the place 
which is now occupied by the beach, or sea shore ; for it 
is supposed, that at this time, there was no sea. His 
mother, hearing of the danger of her son, mixed for 
him a remedy, which was prepared in a large shell, 
and placed it in the sun to ferment. The "Coyote," 
attracted to the spot by its fragrance, overturned it, and 
thus frustrated the intention of his mother. At length 
the captain died ; and, although he told them that in a 
short time he should return, and live with them again, 
they never have seen him more. I must state, that, at 
this tin:ie, there was no kind of grain or flesh to eat, and 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 215 

their food was the earth, which, according to their de- 
scription, I understand to have been a kind of white 
clay, often used upon their heads by way of ornament. 
After the death of " Ouiot," they remained, for some 
time, undecided, whether to inter his remains, or to 
burn them ; however, it Avas determined by the elders, 
that they should do the latter. The fire was prepared, 
the body placed upon a pile erected for the occasion, 
and fearing that the " Coyote " would come, and eat 
him, they sent out and burnt his retreat ; but he had 
made his escape, and soon presented himself at the 
place of sacrifice, declaring he would be burnt with his 
captain ; and, suddenly leaping upon the pile, he tore 
off from his stomach a large piece of flesli, and ate it. 
The remainder of his body was afterwards consumed by 
the flames. 

The name of the Coyote was Eyacque, which im- 
plies second captain ; and from this time they changed 
his name to that of Eno ; signifying a thief and canni- 
bal, and thieves were generally termed Eyoton, derived 
from Eno and Ouiot. 

After burning the body, a general council w^as called, 
to make provision for the collecting of grain and seeds ; 
the acorns, ifcc, &c., and the flesh of animals ; such as 
deer, rabbits, hares, squirrels, rats, and all kinds which 
they fed upon. While consulting together, they beheld 
for several days, and at distinct times, a spectre, unlike 
themselves, who appeared and disappeared ; sometimes 
in one direction and sometimes in another. Alarmed at 

22* 



246 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

its appearance, they determined to speak to it. Having 
sammoned it to their presence, inquiries were made if 
he were their Captain Ouiot. " I am not Oidot,'^ said 
he, " but a captain of greater power ; and my name is 
Chinigchinich. My habitation is above. On what 
matters are you debating, and why are you thus con- 
gregated?" he enquired. '-Our captain is dead," said 
they, " we have come to his interment, and were dis- 
cussing in what manner to maintain ourselves upon the 
seeds of the fields, and the flesh of animals without be- 
ing obliged to live upon the clay, or earth, as we have 
done." 

Having listened to their answer, he spake unto them, 
and said, " I create all things ; I will make you another 
people, and from this time, one of you shall be endowed 
with the power to cause it to rain, another to influence 
the dews, another to produce the acorn, another to cre- 
ate rabbits, another ducks, another geese, another deer." 
In fine, each one received his particular occupation, and 
power to create such food as they now eat. Even now, 
such as claim to be descendants of this people, pretend 
to be endowed with the same powers, and are frequently 
consulted as to their harvests, and receive in return for 
their advice, a gift of some kind, either in money or 
clothing, and, in fact, the result of their harvest depends 
entirely upon the maintenance given to these sorcerers, 
and the supplying all their necessities.. To oflTend 
them, would be to destroy all their productions of flesh 
and grain. 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 247 

Chiiiigchinich, after having conferred the power, as 
we have said, upon the descendants of Ouiot, about the 
time of •' dixit et factum est," created man, forming him 
of clay found upon the borders of a lake. Both male 
and female he created, and the Indians of the present 
day are the descendants of these. He then said unto 
them these words — " Him who obeyeth me not, or be- 
lieveth not in my teachings, I will chastise — to him I 
will send bears to bite, serpents to sting, misfortunes, 
infirmities, and death." He taught them the laws they 
were to observe for the future, as well as their rites and 
ceremonies. 

His first commandment was to build a temple, v/here 
they might pay to him adoration, offer up sacrifices, and 
have religious worship. The plan of this building was 
regulated by himself. From this time they looked upon 
Chinigchinich as God. The Indians say, he had nei- 
ther father nor mother, and they are entirely ignorant 
of his origin. The name Chinigchinich signifies " all- 
powerful " or " almighty," and it is believed by the In- 
dians, that he was ever present, and in all places : he 
saw every thing, although it might be in the darkest 
night, but no one could see him. He was a friend to 
the good, but the wicked he chastised- 

Chinigchinich was known under three distinct names, 
as follows : Saoi^, QuagJiar, and Tohet. Each one pos- 
sessing its particular signification, denoting diversity or a 
difference of times. Saor^ signifies or means, that period 
in which Chinigchinich could not dance ; Quaguar, 



248 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP 

when enabled to dance ; and Tobet^ when he danced 
enrobed in a dress composed of feathers, with a crown 
of the same upon Iiis head, and his face painted black 
and red. They say that once, while dancing in this 
costume, he was taken up into heaven, where are lo- 
cated the stars. His order was, that they should use 
this mode of dress in their grand feasts — an observance 
regarded to this day. 

Let us now return to the children of Ouiot, to know 
what became of them, and their descendants. It is said 
by some, that the God Chinigchinich, after he had 
formed the Indians out of the clay of the lake, trans- 
formed them into men like the others. To this opinion 
I am inclined, as being the most reasonable, for the 
power which they received from Chinigchinich, to cre- 
ate animals and grain, has been claimed, as has been 
seen, by those who pretend to be their descendants ; and 
if he had not tmnsformed them into Indians, no one 
would have remained with the power, for, the children 
of Ouiot were not Indians, or rational beings. It is af- 
firmed by others, that when they saw the Indians that 
were created by Chinigchinich, they disappeared, and 
went off, no one knows where ; and, consequently, that 
there are no descendants of Ouiot in existence. Nev- 
ertheless, they all consult alike relative to their harvests, 
and pay for the advice given to them. This is the be- 
lief that these Indians of the interior had respecting 
the creation of the world, and its origin. 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 249 



CHAPTER III, 

OF THE CREATION OF THE WORLD ACCORDING TO THE BE- 
LIEF OF THOSE RESIDING ON THE SEA-COAST. 

In the preceding chapter, we have been amused by 
the belief of the Indians, Serranos^ relative to the crea- 
tion of the world. Now, let us compare the same with 
that of the Playanos—ihdii is, those who came to settle 
in the valley of St. Juan Capistrano. An invisible 
and ail-poYverful being called Nocuma made the world, 
the sea, and all that is therein contained, such as ani- 
mals, trees, plants and fishes. In its form it was spher- 
ical, and rested upon his hands ; but, being continually 
in motion, he resolved to secure the same by placing 
in its centre a black rock, called Tosaiit^ and it re- 
mained firm, and secure as at the present time. This 
black rock, the Indians say, is from a small island near 
the beach, and the fragments w^hich they often collect, 
serve as trowels, w^th v/hich they smooth their mud 
walls. 

The sea, at that time, v\ as no more than a small 
stream of water, running from the south to the north, 
encircling the world : so filled with fish, that they were 
hierally piled one on top of another, in such a state of 
inconvenience, that they held a consultation, and some 



250 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

were for landing upon the earth ; others were of opin- 
ion that it would be impossible, for they would perish 
when exposed to the air and the heat of the sun, and 
besides they had no legs and feet as other animals 
have. While conferring upon this matter, there came 
a large fish, bringing with him the rock Tosaut^ which, 
having broken, they found in its centre a ball formed 
like a bladder, filled with gall. This they emptied into 
the water, and from its fresh state it was converted into i 
a bitter condition. The water then immediately swell- 
ed, and overflowed upon the earth, covering the space 
which it does now, and the fishes were rejoiced to find 
tbemselves so amply supplied with room, and at the 
change effected in the taste. 

NocuTTio having created all the things contained in 
the world, and secured it with the rock Tosaut, as be- 
fore remarked, created man, or the first Indian, out of 
the earth, and called him Ejoni. Afterwards he crea- 
ted woman, and gave her the name of Ae. It is not 
known of what she was made, but the supposition is 
that she was created from the earth, like the man. 
Many years after the creation of Ejoni and Ae, one of 
their descendants, called Sir out, (which signifies a hand- 
ful of tobacco) and his wife called Ycaiut, (which signi- 
fies above) had a son, and they gave him the name of 
Ouiot. This name, according to the explanation given 
by the Indians, signifies something which has taken 
root, denoting that in like manner, he would, in course 
of time, extend his power and dominion over the earth, 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 251 

as the largest trees spread their roots in every direction. 
I have not been enabled to ascertain if the name Oiiiot^ 
properly implying dominator, was given to him at the 
time of his birth, or at the time of his celebrity as the 
great Captain. Be it as it may, let us examine his his- 
tory, or life. 

Out of the confines of a Rancheria, called Puhuna^ 
distant from St. Juan Capistrano N.E. about eight 
leagues, came the monster Ouiot, and the Indians, at 
the present time, preserve the account in their annals. 
At that time, all the inhabitants were at peace, and qui- 
etly following their domestic pursuits ; but Otiiot, be- 
ing of a fierce disposition, a warrior, ambitious, and 
haughty, soon managed to gain a supremacy over many 
of the towns adjoining that where he originated. Du- 
ring the commencement of his reign, he was pacific, 
kind and generous to such a degree, that every one ap- 
peared happy, and contented with their chief; but after 
the lapse of a few years, he gradually exposed his fero- 
city, and persecuted many of his vassals ; cruelly treat- 
ing thenij and some he put to death. In fact, he soon 
became the detestation of all his subjects. 

Having suffered so much from Ouiot, they deter- 
mined to rid themselves of the tyrant, and release them- 
selves from the oppression in which they had lived for 
so long a period. A consultation was held by the eld- 
ers, and it was decided that he should receive his death 
by means of poison. The rock Tosaut was procured, 
and whilst in the act of pulverizing the ingredient, they 



HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP 

were perceived by one called Cucumel, who immedi- 
ately gave information to Oiiiot, that they wished to 
destroy him by ix)ison. Said Cucumel was a small 
animal inhabiting holes in the ground, from which, in 
the daytime, he issued to obtain his sustenance. The 
said Ouiot, believing he was hated and despised, and 
fearful of the death revealed to him by Cucumel, des- 
patched messengers in every direction to ascertain the 
truth ; threatening, at the same time, those who might 
have been concerned in the conspiracy ; but, obtaining 
no information, he rather looked upon it as a jest. In 
the meantime, his enemies had secretly prepared the 
mixture, and were consulting how to administer the 
same, saying that it was so active and effective, that 
the mere application of it to the flesh, would cause al- 
most instantaneous death. One of them was entrusted 
with its execution, and at night, finding Ouiot asleep, 
he placed a small quantity upon his breast. On wak- 
ing, he experienced a sickness and weakness in his 
limbs, and fearing very much that he should die, he 
immediately called in, all the intelligent from tV\e differ- 
ent towns. But the more they administered for his re- 
lief, the worse he became, until, at length, he died. 

After his death they sent off couriers to all the towns, 
and settlements, which Ouiot had governed, summon- 
ing the people to the interment of their Grand Captain ; 
and in a few days, so great a collection had assem- 
bled, that the City or Town of Pubuna could not 
contain them, and they were obliged to encamp in the 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA^ 253 

outskirts. They cousulted together as to the propriety 
of burning or interring the body, and they decided upon 
the former. The funeral pile was made, the deceased 
placed upon it, the pile was fii*ed, and during the time 
of its burning, they danced and sang songs of rejoicing. 
These ceremonies concluded, and before the return of 
the people to their different places of abode, a council 
was called to regulate the collecting of grain or seeds of 
the fields,and flesh, to eat ; for up to this time they had 
fed upon a kind of clay. While conferring upon this 
subject, there appeared to them one, called '• Attajen^'^ 
which name implies man, or rational being ; but they 
knew not from whence he came. To his enquiry, 
" Why they were thus congregated V they answered 
'• that their Grand Captain was dead, and that they 
had met together to assist at the funeral ceremo- 
nies ; and now, previous to their retirement, the elders 
were consulting as to the manner they should sub- 
sist for the future, without the necessity of living upon 
clay as they had heretofore." '■'- Attajen^'' was much 
pleased with the relation that he had heard, and said 
unto them, " Ye are not capable, nor can ye do what 
ye think, or wish to do. I am the only one that has 
power, and I will give it to ye, that ye may have an 
abundance to eat, in your habitations." And, accord- 
ingly, he selected from the multitude a few of the eld- 
ers, and endowed them with the power to cause the 
rain to fall, to make grain, and others to make ani- 
mals, such as rabbits, hares, deer, (fee, <fec. And it was 

23 



254 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

understood that such power was to descend to their suc- 
cessors. 

Many years, and perhaps ages, having expired since 
the death of Ouiot, there appeared in the same town 
of Pubuna, one called " Ouiamot,^^ son of Tacu and 
Auzar. I imagine that this new character was not, or, 
at least, his parents were not inhabitants of the place, 
but had originated in some distant land. The said 
Ouiamot did not appear like Ouiot, as a warrior, but 
as a God. To him they were to offer presents. And 
this was the God Chinigchinich, so feared, venerated, 
and respected by the Indians, who taught first in the 
town of Pubuna, and afterwards in all the neighbor- 
ing parts, explaining the laws, and establishing the 
rites and ceremonies necessary to the preservation of 
life. 

The manner in which he commenced to dogmatise, 
manifesting his extravagances, was as follows. One 
day, at a very large congregation of the people, he 
danced before them, adorned in the robes which have 
been already described ; his flesh painted black and 
red, and calling himself Tohet. He said that he had 
come from the stars to teach them those things of which 
they were ignorant. After dancing a considerable time, 
he separated the chiefs and elders from among them, and 
directed that they alone should wear the kind of dress 
which had adorned his person, and then taught them 
how to dance. To these Indians was given the name of 
puplerti, who would know all th'ngs, and relieve the in- 



THE INDIANS OP CALIFORNIA. 255 

firm and diseased. In other words, they would become 
the sorcerers or soothsayers, to whom the Indians might 
invariably apply for advice, and rehef from their neces- 
sities. In the event of a scarcity of food, or any infirmity, 
they were told to appear, dressed like unto Tohet ; that 
is, after the manner in which he appeared to them, 
dancing ; to supplicate him, not in the name of Ouia- 
mot^ but of Chinigchinich, and their wants would be 
relieved. Tlie sick would be cured, and the hungry 
receive food. In all cases they were to return thanks, 
and even now, to this day, whenev^er they chance to se- 
cure an animal of any kind, they say, "guic Chinig- 
chinich," that is, " thanks to Chinigchinich, who has 
given me this." 

This Cliinigchinich, as we shall style him hereafter, 
taught them how to build the Vanquech, which means 
temple, or church, and how they were to conduct them- 
selves therein — forbidding any others than the chief and 
puplem entering its sanctuary. Here they were to teach 
only the laws and ceremonies, and those who entered, 
would be called Tobet, and the remainder of the people 
Saorem^ which signifies, persons who do not know how 
to dance ; that is, more properly, those who could not 
make use of the vestments of Chinigchinich. The 
name of Quagua?^, was given to him when he died and 
ascended above, among the stars. This is the explana- 
tion of the three terms which is given in the preceding 
relation relative to Chinigchinich. 

Chinigchinich having become seriously indisposed. 



256 HISTORICAL ACCOUxNT OF 

and while instructing the elders how to rear the young, 
as well as in the rules they were to observe for the fu- 
ture, they enquired of him where, or to which one of his 
rancherias he wished to go when he died? He an- 
swered, " to neither, for they were inhabited by people, 
and he should go where he w^ould be alone, and could 
see the inhabitants of all the pueblos and rancherias." 
They offered to bury him, placing him under the earth, 
but he said '• no," that then they w^ould walk upon him, 
and he would have to chastise them. " No !" said Chinig- 
chinich, " when I die, I shall ascend above, to the stars, 
and from thence, I shall always see you ; and to those 
who have kept my commandments, I shall give all they 
ask of me ; but those who obey not my teachings, nor 
beUeve them, I shall punish severely. I wdll send unto 
them bears to bite, and serpents to sting them ; they 
shall be without food, and have diseases that they may 
die." Chinigchinich, at length, died. His memory was 
so revered among the Indians, that they ever besought 
him in all their undertakings, and regarded him with 
fear and respect. 

We have thus seen the belief of these Indians, re- 
specting the creation of the world, and their God, and 
from its narration, we comprehend their religion, usages 
and customs. I do not understand why it is, that in 
neither of the two narrations, is there any mention made 
of the heavens, and that all their ideas of things appear 
to be confined to the earth, with the exception of the 
stars. What I should like to know, is, from whence 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 257 

they have received such accounts? for, notwithstanding 
their imperfect, as well as fabulous description, they 
have some allusion to the truth. We have the six pro- 
ductions of the mother of Ouiot, corresponding to the 
six days of the creation of the world — The Indian 
formed of the earth or clay, like our first parent — and 
Ouiot, analogous to Nimrod of the Holy Scripture. I 
do not know to whom we may compare Ouiamot, un- 
less it be to Simon Magus, as his teachings were idola- 
trous. 

23^ 



258 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 



CHAPTER IV. 

DESCRIPTION OF THE VANQTJECH OR TEMPLE. 

Although God needs not a material temple, to be 
adored, praised and venerated, to fill all the world with 
his essence, presence, and power : nevertheless, he has 
always desired that there should be sacrifices, and pray- 
ers offered unto him, to obtain his mercy and forgive- 
ness, in places determined upon by him ; as may be 
seen in Deuteronomy in the Holy Scriptures. He or- 
dered the patriarch, Abraham, to sacrifice on a mount 
of his own selection. Moses was ordered to build a 
tabernacle, and 440 years afterwards, Solomon, was 
commanded to build the magnificent temple of Jeru- 
salem. 

Satan, jealous of the honor due to the true God, 
wishes that man should also adore him, and offer up 
sacrifices in temples, by him ordained, thus endeavor- 
ing to draw him from the knowledge of the true God, 
one in essence, and three in person. He has taught 
man a diversity of Gods, and a variety of forms for his 
temples. I will therefore explain, in this chapter, the 
location and form of the temple, called Vanquech. The 
name of temple, or church, we know is derived from 
contemplatione, a place dedicated to prayer. If the 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 259 

Vaiiquech of these Indians can be thus termed, the 
reader will best decide. 

The temples erected by command of the God Chi- 
nigchinich, or the celebrated idolater Ouiamot, were in- 
variably erected in the centre of their towns, and con- 
tiguous to the dwelUng-place of the captain, or chief ; 
notwithstanding their houses were scattered about with- 
out any particular regard to order, still, they managed 
to have the location of his house as near the middle as 
possible. They formed an enclosure of about four or 
five yards in circumference, not exactly round, but in- 
clining to an oval. This they divided, by drawing a 
line through the centre, and built another, consisting of 
the branches of trees, and mats to the height of about 
six feet, outside of which, in the other division, they 
formed another, of small stakes of wood driven into the 
ground. This was called the gate, or entrance, to the 
Vanquech. Inside of this, and close to the larger stakes, 
was placed a figure of their God Chinigchinich, elevated 
upon a kind of hurdle. This is the edifice of the Van- 
quech. 

Not being acquainted with the art of drawing, I can- 
not give a true picture of the figure adored by them, 
but will explain the same as well as I am able. In the 
first place, of the skin of a coyote^ or gato 'fnontes, 
which was taken off with great care, including the head 
and feet, they formed a species of sack. This they dressed 
quite smooth, like deer skin, but without taking off the 
hair. Inside of this, were placed the feathers of particu- 



260 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

lar kinds of birds, horns of deer, lions' claws, beaks and 
talons of the hawk and crow, and other things of this 
class ; particularly the beak and talons of a species of 
hawk, called pame, that we shall describe hereafter, 
from the feathers of which they formed a kind of petti- 
coat, to dress their Chinigchinich, such as was used by 
the captain and chiefs, and called paelt. Inside of tliis 
sack, they placed some arrows, and upon the outside, a 
few more, with a bow. It resembled in appearance, a 
live animal, and projecting from its mouth might be 
seen the feathers of the arrows. 

When the Captain sent out orders by the crier of the 
general council, for the Indians to go out in search of 
game, or seeds, one of the puplem^ (signifying one who 
knows all things) sketched upon the ground in front of 
Chinigchinich, a very ridiculous figure, and the crier 
called upon all to go and worship it. Having congre- 
gated together, according to their custom on such occa- 
sions, (male and female) the men armed with their bows 
and arrows, and well painted — the chief and the pu- 
plem dressed in their appropriate costumes, resembling 
devils more than human beings — they went in succession, 
running one behind the other, led by their captain, un- 
til they arrived opposite Chinigchinich. and the figuje 
upon the earth. The leader then gave a jump, spring- 
ing very high from the ground, accompanied by a loud 
yell, and with his bow and arrow, prepared as if to shoot 
at something in the air. Each one in his turn perform- 
ed the same evolution. 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 261 

The ceremony being concluded on the part of the 
men, the females followed, headed by their Capitana in 
like manner as the men, differing only in this respect, 
that instead of running, they moved along in slow pro- 
cession, and when in front of the Yanquech, they inclined 
the head, presenting at the same time their hateas^ or 
instruments collected for the occasion. This ceremony 
concluded, they all dispersed to the mountains. The 
object of this performance, was to implore protection from 
all danger and sickness while in their pursuit of game. 

Very great was their veneration for the Vanquech, or 
temple, and they were extremely careful not to com- 
mit the most trivial act of irreverence within. No one 
was permitted to enter it on their feast days, but the chief, 
the Puplem, and elders. The remainder of the people re- 
mained outside of the stakes. The younger class did not 
dare to approach even the entrance. Profound silence 
was observed generally throughout the assembly, inter- 
rupted occasionally by a whisper. Of those inside, 
sometimes the chief, or one of the Puplem, danced, ma- 
king all kinds of grotesque figures ; after which they 
partook of an entertainment, when all ate from the 
same vessel. 

It has always appeared to me extremely ridiculous 
that his Satanic Majesty, desirous of the honors and 
veneration due to God alone, should have adopted so lu- 
dicrous a form of worship, as that which was observed 
toward Chinigchinich. When in his presence, the In- 
dians were entirely naked , and remained for hour? in a 



262 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP 

posture equally awkward and fatiguing — a sort of squat ; 
resting their heads, generally, upon their right hands, 
without moving during the ceremony of adoration. 

Extraordinary as was the veneration observed for 
their Vanquech, no less so were the privileges allowed to 
those who sought its protection. Whatever criminal, 
guilty of the highest misdemeanor — of homicide, adul- 
tery, or theft, escaping from justice, should be enabled 
to reach its sanctuary, unknown to his accusers, from 
that moment he would become free, and at liberty to 
go abroad without any fear of molestation, on the part 
of those aggrieved. No mention would be made of the 
crime of which he might be guilty, yet, it might be said, 
in derision of his having sought refuge in the Vanquech, 
" you went to the protection of Chinigchinich, if you 
had not, we should have killed you ; but, nevertheless, 
he will chastise you for your wickedness." 

They believed, that, as their God was friendly to 
the good, and punished the wicked, he also would not 
permit any one to be molested, who sought his protec- 
tion ; thus, the criminal escaped punishment at the 
time. Yet it must be understood, that although the 
delinquent went free, the crime did not remain exempt 
from punishment ; for vengeance was wrought upon the 
children, grandchildren, or some near relative, whenever 
opportunity to the aggrieved offered ; and the tradition 
was handed down, from father, to son, until the same 
was accomplished. In Uke manner, the captain could 
preserve his life when charged with squandering the 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 263 

grain, which was deposited w^ith him. If he, by good 
hick, achieved a refuge in the Va?iqtiech, no one could 
harm him. nor enter therein, particularly if he were 
adorned in the robes of the " CapUa7iejas" Should 
any one enter in defiance of this custom, he would be 
immediately despatched by his companions, for death 
was the penalty. The captain would be deposed, 
however, but they would suffer him to go at large, de- 
prived of his title and supremacy, and the puplem would 
elect as his successor, one of his children ; charging 
him to hold in recollection, the fate of his father ; to 
be faithful, or the same punishment would attend 
him. 



264 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 



CHAPTER V. 

OBEDIENCE AND SUBJECTION TO THEIR CAPTAIN. 

Their form of government was monarchical, ac- 
knowledging but one head, and the Puplem^ or general 
council. This body served as a kind of check to the 
will of the captain, and without its sanction he could 
do nothing of importance. Before treating upon the 
obedience observed towards their ruler, and his advisers, 
I will first explain the forms and ceremonies adopted in 
their elevation to office. In the event of the decease 
of their captain, or his inability to govern, from ex- 
treme age, — or of his desire to elevate a son to the 
command, a general feast was prepared, and all the 
neighboring chiefs and friends were invited to attend. 
(I must note here, that each town or Rancheria, had its 
chief, or captain.) Upon their arrival, after all were 
collected together, the object of the invitation was 
made known to them, and the cause of the old chief 's 
relinquishing the command to his son, was explained. 
If this were satisfactory, their consent was given, 
and a day specified for the event, which was generally 
the succeeding one. A crier was despatched to give 
notice of the election to the inhabitants, and they 
were invited to take part in the feast of the new captain. 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 265 

Every thing being prepared, they placed the crown 
upon his head, and he was enrobed with the imperial 
vestments. Anciently, the diadem of kings and empe- 
rors consisted of a kind of bandage, wound around the 
head, as we may infer from the account of Alexander 
Magnus, who upon beholding a valiant soldier, wound- 
ed, took from his head the diadem^ to bind up the 
wound of his vassal. Of this class was the diadem 
used by the capitan. His hair was tied close to the 
neck, plaited, or rather twisted, and instead of a band- 
age, he wore a species of cord made from the hair, 
which was passed three or four times around his 
head. A thin piece of wood, of about half a yard in 
length, sometimes, of a shape similar to the blade of a 
sword, and often rounded like a wire, they secured to 
the cord, which they adorned with feathers of the hawk, 
the crow, and other birds. Lastly, they put upon him 
a kind of petticoat, formed also from the feathers of 
birds, reaching down almost to the knees, while the re- 
mainder of his body was painted black. This was call- 
ed the dress of the " Capitatfeja" and was the Tohet^ 
so termed by Chinigchinich. 

His toilet being concluded, as above described, he 
went into the Vanquech to dance before Chinigchinich, 
and the instruments, used upon such occasions, were not 
very musical, nor of any great variety, being composed 
mostly of the shells of turtles, with small stones inside, 
which they rattled continually, as an accompaniment to 
their voices. After dancing until he felt somewhat fa- 

24 



266 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

tigued, the other captains entered, dressed with their 
several insignia, and placed him in their centre. Af- 
ter dancing around him a short time, the ceremony was 
concluded, and he was acknowledged as their captain. 

The feast, generally, lasted three or four days and 
nights, and the old captain procured for the occasion, 
an abundance of their choicest kinds of food, which 
he presented to the guests, and to all the inhabitants of 
his dominion. 

The new captain did not assume the reins of govern- 
ment, until his father died or resigned them to him, 
and then, the only ceremony necessary in taking the 
command, was, to make known the fact to the neigh- 
boring chiefs. In the right of succession to the com- 
mand, having no male descendant, the females also 
participated ; and were permitted to marry with whom- 
soever they pleased, even one not descended from the 
true line of captains. In such a case, the husband was 
not acknowledged as chief, nor was the wife allowed to 
govern ; but always the nearest male relation assumed 
the power. The first male child, as soon as born, they 
proclaimed captain ; and from that time he was knoAvn 
as such, although the relative governed during his mi- 
nority. On the day of transferring the government, all 
the neighboring chiefs were invited, and a grand feast 
given on the occasion. It was the custom among 
these Indians, in all their feasts, to carry presents to the 
person who gave the invitation, and he in return, was 
obliged when invited, to give one of equal value. 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 267 

As it regards obedience and subjection to their cap- 
tains, what I have been enabled to ascertain, is, that the 
conduct of the people was in no wise influenced by 
their authority, but that they lived a life of insubordina- 
tion, without laws or government. The malefactor 
went unpunished, and the meritorious unrewarded. In 
fact, each one lived as he pleased, and no one interfered, 
do what he would. Notwithstanding this, the Indians 
say, that in the days of their gentilism, they had but 
very few quarrels and disturbances. The reason of 
this, I presume, was, the fact of their being nearly 
all related to each other, and the frequent exhortation 
of the fathers to their children, to be good. When one 
committed a fault against another, if the aggrieved 
could avenge himself, he did so ; death, generally, was 
the result, and no one interfered or spoke of it. 

Although the Captains did not exercise any power, 
whatever, in the administration of justice, or in any 
other way, still the people possessed great respect and 
veneration for their persons, particularly the youthful 
part of the community, who were early instructed to 
look upon them, as well as upon the Puplem and eld- 
ers, with fear and trembhng. This was, as before stated, 
their daily instruction, and on this account no one dared 
to treat them with disrespect, or to injure them by word or 
action, for death would have been the consequence, and its 
execution carried into effect as follows : — The case hav- 
ing been declared in the council, an elder was appointed 
to make public the crime, which he did by crying most 



268 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

r 

bitterly throughout the rancheria, saying, that ''so and 
so, has said or done this or that, to our captain," — that 
" Chinigchinich is very angry, and wishes to chastise 
us, by sending upon us a plague, of which we may all 
die. Arm yourselves, then, both old and young, to kill 
the offender, so that by presenting him dead to Chinig- 
chinich, he may be appeased, and not kill us." This 
was repeated several times throughout the town. As 
the Indians were easily influenced, they immediately 
went out, armed, in search of the deUnquent, and when 
they fell in with him, they despatched him, and, to- 
gether with the arrows with which they killed him, he 
was borne to the presence of Chinigchinich. The pa- 
rents of the deceased were permitted afterwards to take 
possession of the body, and perform the accustomed 
ceremony of burning it. 

The captain was authorized to decide upon all differ- 
ences, occurring between his rancheria and the neigh- 
boring towns, to declare war, to make peace, and to 
appoint the days on which they were to celebrate their 
feasts, as well as those for the hunting of game, and the 
collecting of grain. Tliis was about the extent of his 
authority. In case of a declaration of war, he convoked 
the Puplem, and explained his intentions ; a consulta- 
tion was held, to decide whether they alone, could carry 
on the warfare, without the assistance of the neighbor- 
ing tribes ; but no reflection was made as to the justice 
or injustice of their intentions. Immediately a crier 
was sent forth, to order the preparation of arms and 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 269 

men. The women were compelled to make an abun- 
dance of pinole, and to get ready the provisions neces- 
sary ; and on the day determined upon for their march, 
the crier called them together, and they set forward, 
headed by the captain, who acted as general-in-chief, 
every one strictly obeying his orders. 

They had a pal, (a kind of astrologer), who knew 
by the moon's appearance, the time to celebrate the 
feasts, and from his information, the captain made them 
public ; and this was generally done by sending round 
a crier, on the evenings previous to their celebration. In 
the same manner, was made known the time to collect 
grain, and to hunt : but he, who advised the captain, 
was the one originally endowed with the power of pro- 
viding their game, herbs, <fec., (fee. On sucli occasions, 
all turned out in quest of food, both men and women, 
boys and girls ; and on returning to their rancheria. the 
greater part was deposited with the captain, w^ho took 
care of the same for the feast. In their ordinary excur- 
sions for game, (fee, the captain was obliged to hunt for 
his own subsistence, and although he frequently re- 
ceived a portion, still it w^as not considered obligatory 
on the part of the giver. 

Some of them had two or more wives, that they 
might be more plentifully supplied with seeds, and vege- 
tables, and thus have it in their power to make provis- 
ion for the poor and feeble. 

24* 



270 HISTORICAL ACCOUiXT OP 



CHAPTER VI. 

THE INSTRUCTION GIVEN TO THEIR CHILDREN. 

One of the difficulties most perplexing to the Indians, 
was, the rearing and educating their children. They 
Avere unacquainted with the arts, excepting those most 
necessary for their maintenance, and ignorant of all 
useful knowledge to keep them from idleness ; so that 
their only education consisted in the construction of the 
bow and arrow, with their peculiar uses, in procuring 
game and defending themselves from their enemies. 

Although, ignorant as they were of the knowledge of 
the true God, the moral instruction given by parents to 
their children, was contained in the precepts of Chinig- 
chinich, which were strongly impressed upon their 
minds, that they might become good, and avoid the fate 
of the evil. The perverse child, invariably, was destroy- 
ed, and the parents of such remained dishonored. At 
the age of six, or seven years, they gave them a kind 
of god, as protector ; an animal, in whom they were to 
place entire confidence, who would defend them from all 
dangers, particularly those in war against their enemies. 
They, however, were not to consider this animal as the 
real God, for he was invisible, and inhabited the moun- 
tains and bowels of the earth ; and if he did appear to 



THE INDIANS OP CALIFORNIA. 271 

them at any time, it was in the shape of an animal of 
the most terrific description. This was not Chinigchinich, 
but another called Touchy signifying a Devil. That 
they might know the class of animal, which the God, 
Chinigchinich, had selected for their particular venera- 
tion, a kind of drink was administered to them, made from 
a plant called Pibaf, which was reduced to a powder, and 
mixed with other intoxicating ingredients. Soon after 
taking this preparation, they became insensible, and for 
three days were deprived of any sustenance whatever. 
During this period they were attended by some old men 
or women, who were continually exhorting them to be 
on the alert, not to sleep for fear the coyote., the bear, 
the crow, or the rattlesnake might come ; to observe if 
it were furious or gentle, and to inquire of the first 
that should come, what were its desires. The poor In- 
dian thus intoxicated, without food or djink, suffering 
imder dehrium, beheld all kinds of visions ; and when 
he made known that he had seen any particular being, 
who explained the observances required of him, then 
they gave him to eat and drink, and made a grand feast ; 
at the same time advising him to be particular in obey- 
ing the commands of the mysterious apparition. 

They did not all partake of the drink, and those who 
did not, were adorned with feathers, and were painted 
with a mixture of black and red. They were thus ta- 
ken to the Vanquech in fantastical procession, and placed 
at the side of Chinigchinich. On the ground, and di- 
rectly before them, the Puplem sketched a most uncouth 



272 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP 

-^nd ridiculous figure, of an animal, and prohibited 
them from leaving the Vanquech during the time of 
penance, (generally three days) and in case of hunger 
or thirst, they were advised to suffer witli patience. 
Should they partake of any thing, the figure before them 
would inform to that effect, and Chinigchinich would 
chastise them severely, by sending them sickness that 
would take away their lives. These and many other 
ludicrous stories were told to them, and the poor Indians 
placed the most implicit confidence in them. 

The following circumstance was related to me, which 
transpired during the tmie of their heathenism. A 
young man, who had been taken to the Vanquech to 
perform the accustomed penance of fasting, the second 
day feeling somewhat afl[licted with hunger and thirst, 
secretly retired from the temple, and entered a house 
that was near by, whose inhabitants were absent ; and 
having found food, he ate and drank sufficiently, and 
returned without any one having seen him. After the 
accomplishment of the time, being one day in coptipany 
with many of his friends, he related the circumstance, 
and gave out, as his opinion, that all that was told them 
by the Puplem, regarding the figure upon the ground, 
was a mere story ^ — for he had eaten, and drank, and 
even injured with his foot a portion of the figure, and 
no bad result had happened to him ; therefore they 
ought not to believe the Puplem. But his companions, 
instead of profiting by the information, immediately 
dispatched him with their arrows ; so furious were they, 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 273 

on hearing of the sacrilege offered to their rehgious ob- 
servances. He was the son of a captain, that is a 
prince, for only such could do penance in the Vanquech; 
others drank of the intoxicating mixture. 

Having undergone the ceremonies described, they 
placed upon the poor Indians a brand, which was done 
in tliis manner. A kind of herb was pounded until it 
became sponge-iike ; this, they placed, according to the 
figure required, upon the spot intended to be burnt, 
which was generally upon the right arm, and some- 
times upon the thick part of the leg also. They then 
set fire to it, and let it remain until all that was combus- 
tible, was consume^d. Consequently, a large blister im- 
mediately formed, and although painful, they used no 
remedy to cure it, but left it to heal itself; and thus, 
a large and perpetual scar remained. The reason al- 
leged for this ceremony, was, that it added greater 
strength to the nerves, and gave a better pulse for the 
management of the bow. Besides, Chinigchinich re- 
quired it of them, that they might be more formidable 
in war, and be enabled to conquer their enemies. 
Those who were not marked in this way, which was 
called '•^ fotensej'' were ever unfortunate, easily con- 
quered, and men of feeble capacities. 

They also were obhged to undergo still greater mar- 
tyrdom to be called men, and to be admitted among the 
already initiated ; for, after the ceremony of the " fo- 
tensej^ they were whipped with nettles, and covered 
with ants, that they might become robust, and the in- 



274 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

fliction was always performed in summer, during the 
months of July and August, when the nettle was in its 
most fiery state. They gathered small bunches, which 
they fastened together, and the poor deluded Indian was 
chastised, by inflicting blows with them upon his naked 
limbs, until unable to walk ; and then he was carried 
to the nest of the nearest, and most furious species of 
ants, and laid down among them, while some of his 
friends, with sticks, kept annoying the insects to make 
them still more violent. What torments did they not un- 
dergo ! what pain ! what hellish inflictions ! yet, their 
faith gave them power to endure all without a murmur, 
and they remained as if dead. Having undergone 
these dreadful ordeals, they were considered as invul- 
nerable, and believed that the arrows of their enemies 
could no longer harm them. 

The young were not allowed to approach the fire to 
warm themselves, that they might learn to suffer, and 
become connaturalized with the changes of temperature 
— a severe deprivation, indeed, to the Indian ! whose 
greatest luxury was to lie basking in the sun, or to en- 
joy the comforts of a blazing fire. They were for- 
bidden also to eat certain kinds of seeds, and meats, un- 
til arrived at the age of manhood, and were even -pa- 
rents of two or three children. Should they eat of such, 
clandestinely, " El Touch " would know it, and chas- 
tise them in various ways ; and Chinigchinich, also, 
would be very angry. Their faith and belief in these 
instructions were such, and the fear and terror produced 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 276 

therefrom, so infused among them, that, rather than vi- 
olate them, they would suffer death. 

Thus far, I have explained the education given to 
the boys. Now I will proceed to that instilled into the 
minds of the females. Besides the general instruetions 
given to the males, to observe the commandments of 
Chinigchinich, the girls were taught to remain at home, 
and not to roam about in idleness ; to be always em- 
ployed in some domestic duty, so that, when they were 
older, they might know how to work, and attend to 
their household duties ; such as procuring seeds, and 
cleaning them, — making " atoW^ and ^^pinole,^^ which 
are kinds of gruel, and their daily food. When quite 
young, they have a small, shallow basket, called, by the 
natives, '' tucmel,^^ with which they learn the way to 
clean the seeds, and they are also instructed in grinding, 
and preparing the same, for consumption. Those who 
are industrious in their youth, are flattered with promises 
of many admirers when they grow up to be women — 
that they will be generally beloved, and receive many 
presents. In this neighborhood, and as I have been in- 
formed, as far south as Cape St. Lucas, the girls were 
tat-tooed in their infancy, from their eyebrows, down to 
their breasts ; and some from the chin only — covering 
the arms entirely, in both cases — but, the execution of 
this was not generally complied with, until they reached 
their tenth year ; and varied in the application and 
style. The usual method of effecting the same, was by 
pricking the parts with the thorn of the cactus plant, 



i 



276 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP 

until they bled, and then they were rubbed with a kind 
of charcoal produced from mescal, so that a permanent 
blue color remained. 

The particular reason for thus tat-tooing their females, 
was, that it added to their beauty, and when well exe- 
cuted, would insure them many admirers — but I think, 
besides this motive, it signified something more, and was a 
necessary kind of distinction. As the devil invented the 
branding of the males, so he may have ordered the 
painting of the females, and Chiiiigchinich required 
its performance ; so that both might have their particu- 
lar mark. Who was the inventor of the singular cere- 
mony, I could not ascertain, but presume it must have 
been the famous Oimnot, w^ho instituted the burning, 
or branding of the males. 

A very novel, and rare custom, that these Indians 
had, was one that the parents invariably advised them 
to adhere to, after arriving at the state of womanhood, 
and it is this. In their excursions for the collecting of 
seeds, or for other purposes, should they unfortunately 
meet with one of the sorcerers, or eaters of human flesh, 
they were to comply with any desire which he might 
express, without manifesting the least reluctance on their 
part ; not even if in company with their mothers, or if 
married, and attended by their husbands, sliould they 
command their protection. Both mothers and husbands 
were obliged to submit to his requests, through fear of 
the many inflictions, which they believed w^ould be the 
result of their refusal ; so, that whenever they discovered 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 277 

any of this detested race, if possible, they concealed them- 
selves, so as not to be seen by them. 

On arriving at the state of womanhood, a grand feast 
was made, and conducted with much ceremony and 
witchcraft. They made a large hole in the ground, in 
shape resembling a grave, about two feet deep : this 
they filled with stones and burning coals, and when suf- 
ficiently heated, the latter were taken out, and upon the 
former they laid branches of the " estajiarte " (a kind 
of perennial plant), so as to form a bed, which the natives 
called ^^ PacsilP Upon this, they placed the young 
girl, and for two or three days she was permitted to eat 
but very little ; thus continuing until the accustomed 
term for purification had expired. In the meantime the 
outside of the hole was adorned with feathers of differ- 
ent birds, beads, and many other baubles. Several old 
women with their faces painted like devils, were em- 
ployed in singing songs in a tone so disagreeable, that 
one could hardly tell whether they were crying, or laugh- 
ing ; and the young women danced around her, at in- 
tervals, every day. 

25 



278 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP 



CHAPTER VII 



ON MATRIMONY. 



The usual custom of these Indians in selecting and ob- 
taining their wives, was as follows : — When one of them 
was inclined to marry, and having seen one with whom 
he was particularly pleased, he kept loitering about her 
place of residence, until opportunity offered to communi- 
cate, in secret, the wish of his heart : generally, after 
this style : " I wish to wed with you," or, " We are to 
be married ;" and the reply of the fair one, invariably, 
was, " It is well," " I will inform my parents, and you 
shall know." The girl then gave the information to 
her father and mother, and if the proposal were agreea- 
ble, the suitor was admitted to che house as a visitor. 

Others proceeded after this manner : — They employed - 
a third person to ascertain from the girl, if the proposal 
would be agreeable to her, and if so, the assent of the 
parents was sohcited. In many cases the old men or 
women of the town made up the marriages, and after 
communicating wdth the parents of the girl, she was 
summoned to their presence and addressed as follows — 
" You are to marry so and so : you will be happy, because 
'' he is an excellent young man, and will have plenty 
" to eat, and other things, for h^ knows how to kill the 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 279 

"deer, rabbits, and other game." Others went direct 
to the parents of the girl to sohcit their consent, and, if 
obtained, they were presented with some trifling gift as 
a token of the fact, and the daughter was informed as 
follows — " My child, you are to marry such a one ; for 
we have given you away to him " — and the poor girl 
was obliged to submit, although, often-times, contrary 
to her wishes and feelings. 

On the suitor's first visit to the house, he carried with 
him a present, either of some kind of fur skin, or of seeds 
or beads, or whatever else he had that was valuable ; and 
from that day he considered it as his home, and the 
task of providing maintenance for the famity, in part, 
fell upon him. During the time of their matrimonial 
promise, his obligations were to supply the house with 
fuel and game, and the girl attended to the domestic af- 
fairs — ever rising at the dawn of day, bathing herself, 
and supplying the house with water ; after which, she 
put every thing in order, with the utmost precision, and 
prepared their customary repast. This task she was 
^obliged to perform without any assistance whatever : 
thus, the wooer had an opportunity of witnessing the 
quaUties of the girl, in regard to her acquirements in 
domestic duties, and for this reason, he was admitted to 
the house as a member of the family. 

When the day was fixed upon for the celebration of 
the nuptials, the friends and relatives of each family 
were invited to attend, and every one in the town was 
expected to take part in the feast, which continued, al- 



280 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP 

ways, for three or four days. In front of the house be- 
longing to the lover, was erected a temporary shelter 
covered with the branches and leaves of trees, sufficiently 
large to accommodate a great number of people. The 
ceremony commenced by his sending one or two of the 
Piiplem and a few of the old women, to bring the bride. 
In the meantime, he awaited her arrival, seated upon a 
mat or upon the ground. As soon as she appeared, 
adorned and dressed for the occasion, in all her gayest 
apparel, and before she entered the place prepared, al- 
ready described, she was seized upon by the old women, 
disrobed, and thus, she was placed by the side of her 
husband. The dress and ornaments were never return- 
ed to her, but were considered by the women as " spoils," 
and each one present, secured as much as she could. 
This practice was universal, excepting at the marriages 
of the chiefs, who, while seated upon the mat, received 
the bride adorned with feathers only — her dress and 
trinkets having been previously removed. The Puplem 
then took her, and placed upon her person the dress of 
the " Capitanejas." While the feast lasted, the guests j 
were employed in singing, dancing, and other diversions. 
It was usual on such occasions, before the separation 
took place between the parents and the bride, for the 
father to explain to her, her obhgations and duties as a 
wife, and the instructions were as follows : " Reflect that 
'• you are the daughter of respectable parents — do noth- 
"ing to offend them — obey and serve your husband, 
"that has been given to you by Chinigchinich ; be 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 281 

" faithful to him, for if you are not, you will not only 
"lose your life, but we shall be disgraced; and if your 
" husband does not treat you as he ought, tell us, and 
"you shall come back and live with us." This was the 
general custom among the Indians ; and without any 
other ceremony, than the one here described, they were 
considered man and wife. Some parents, even, when 
their children were in infanc}^, by mutual agreement, 
would promise them in marriage, and the same was 
ever adhered to, and when the parties were of sufficient 
age, they were united with the customary ceremonies. 
During the period of their childhood, they were always 
together and the house of either was a home to both. 

In the year 1821, in the Mission of St. Juan Capis- 
trano, I married, in "facie eclesia", a couple who were 
thus betrothed. The girl was eight or nine months old, 
and the boy two years, when their parents contracted 
them. 

There are other marriages, or modes, of taking a 
wife. For instance, whenever a captain, or a son of his, 
or a pul became enamored of one in another town, a 
imessenger was despatched to solicit the fair one — if she 
declined, or if her parents were not pleased with the al- 
liance, three or four armed men were sent to demand 
her in marriage, and to use any measures to secure her 
person. Others, when in the woods in search of game 
or seeds, if they met with one that pleased them, car- 
ried her off. These kinds of marriages, generally, were 

25* 



282 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

the cause of war, and severe conflicts between the 
neighboring towns. 

Whether these Indians were lawfully and truly mar- 
ried, is a question. Apparently they were, excepting 
those who were united against their will and desire ; 
and consequently, the contracts should be binding. 
Nevertheless, they did not consider the ceremony as 
binding, and they were at Uberty to throw off the alli- 
ance, whenever they deemed it proper, or conducive to 
their convenience. 

VERSES SUNG TO THE BETROTHED. 

Quic noit noivam " I go to my home, 

Quic secat peleblich. That is shaded with willow." 

Ybicnun majaar vesagnec, " These five they have placed, 

Ibi panal, ibi urusar, This argave, this stone pot, 

Ibi ecbal, ibi seja, ibi calcel. This sand, this honey," &c., &c. 

The first time the wife became enceinte, it was the 
custom to give a grand feast to all in the town, and they 
passed the w^hole of one night in dancing and singing. 
This rejoicing was on account of the looked-for increase, 
and in their songs they asked of Chinigchinich, his 
clemency towards the unborn, for the female was good 
— having, in a short time, arrived to a state that gave 
hopes of her becoming a mother. They looked upon a 
sterile woman as being unfortunate — one who would 
ever meet with calamities. On the day of the birth of 
the child, they made no particular demonstration of 
satisfaction, except to exhibit the infant to the people. 



THE INDIANS OP CALIFORNIA. 283 

If it were a male, the grandfather named it, saying- 
A. B., thus shall he be named. If it were a female, 
then the grandmother named it, and generally gave 
it her own name, or, that of the motlier, unless some 
event occurred about the time of the birth, and then 
it was given a name which would serve to com- 
memorate that event. Notwithstanding no observance 
was made of the birtli-day, yet the day, on which the 
umbihcal cord was removed, was noticed with many 
ceremonies. All the relatives and friends of the family 
were invited to assist in the superstitious performances, 
and they were conducted as follows. At the hour ap- 
pointed, all the guests being present, several old women 
who were skilled in the operation, removed the super- 
abundant particles from the child, and the same were 
interred, with many ceremonies, in a hole prepared ei- 
ther within, or outside of the house. Then immedi- 
ately commenced dancing and singing ; and even now, 
among some of the Indians, the same observances are 
retained. 

The most ludicrous custom among these Indians, was 
that of observing the most rigid diet from the day of 
their wives' confinement. They could not leave the 
house, unless to procure fuel and water — were prohibit- 
ed the use of all kinds of fish and meat — smoking and 
diversions; and this observance lasted generally from 
fifteen to twenty days. 

One of the many singularities that prevailed among 
these Indians was that of marrying males with males, 



2B1 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP 

which has been spoken of by Father Torquemada. It 
was publicly done, but without the forms, and ceremo- 
nies ah-eady described in their marriage contracts with 
the females. Whilst yet in infancy they were selected, 
and instructed as they increased in years, in all the du- 
ties of the women— in their mode of dress— of walking, 
and dancing ; so that in almost every particular, they 
resembled females. Being more robust than the wo- 
men, they were better able to perform the arduous du- 
ties required of the wife, and for this reason, they were 
often selected by the chiefs and others, and on the day 
of the wedding a grand feast was given. To distin- 
guish this detested race at this mission, they were called 
'' Ciiit;' in the mountains, " Uluqui;' and in other parts, 
they were known by the name of " Coias:' At the 
present time, this horrible custom is entirely unknown 
among them. I was told by a missionary from the Mis- 
sion of St. Domingo, in Lower California, that he once 
enquired of several Indians, from the plains of the river 
Colorado, if in their confines, were to be found any of 
the Coias 7 he replied that they were once very nu- 
merous, but a serious plague visited them, many years 
back, which destroyed them all— unfortunately the time 
when this great event transpired, they could not tell, as 
they possessed no idea, whatever, of chronology. 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 286 

' CHAPTER VIII. ^ 

OF THEIR MODE OF LIFE AND OCCUPATION. 

Among the natural inclinations with which man is 
endowed, is that of defending, and preserving his own 
individual person. For this reason, he feels it his duty 
^ to consider how, and in what manner, he is to live, and 
^ how to procure the necessary means of sustenance. 
^ Necessity, " the mother of invention," has therefore re- 
j vealed to him how to arrange the rustic implements, 
used for securing his food. No doubt these Indians 
'passed a miserable hfe, ever idle, and more Hke the 
^ brutes, than rational beings. They neither cultivated 
the ground, nor planted any kind of grain ; but hved 
upon the wild seeds of the field, the fruits of the forest, 
and upon the abundance of game. It is really sur- 
^ prising, that during a lapse of many ages, with their 
reason and experience, they had not advanced one 
iota in improving the things that would have been use- 
ful and convenient for them: for instance, in agi'icul- 
ture; in planting and cultivating those seeds which were 
most appreciated— also trees around their dwellings, 
bearing such fruit as they were obhged to bring from a 
?reat distance. But no ! nothing of the kind ; and in 
ao part of the province was to be found aught but the 
common, spontaneous, productions of the earth. 



286 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

It cannot be denied, that these Indians, Uke all the 
human race, are the descendants of Adam ; endowed 
with reason, or in other words, with a soul. When we 
read of the ancients — of their having transplanted trees 
w^hich were wild, thus increasing their abundance, and 
quality, and of their planting seeds, which improved by 
cultivation, we cannot but wonder that a knowledge so 
important was unknown here until the missionary fa- 
thers came amongst them, and introduced the planting 
of wheat, corn, beans, and other grains, that are now 
so abundant every where. I consider these Indians, in 
their endowments, like the soul of an infant, which is 
merely a will, accompanied with passions — an under- 
standing not exercised, or without use ; and for this 
reason, they did not comprehend the virtue of prudence, 
which is the result of time and reason — of (he for- 
mer, by experience, and the latter, by dissertation. Al- 
though ripe in years, they had no more experience than 
when in childhood — no reasoning powers, and therefore 
followed blindly in the footsteps of their predecessors. 

Their occupation consisted in the construction of the 
bow and arrow, in hunting for deer, rabbits, squirrels, 
rats, (fee, which not only provided them with food, but 
clothi7ig, if so it can be called. Their usual style of 
dress, was a small skin thrown over the shoulders, leav- 
ing the remaining portion of their person unprotected ; 
but the females formed a kind of cloak out of the skins 
of rabbits, which were put together after this manner. 
They twisted them into a kind of rope, that was sewed 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 287 

together, so as to conform to the size of the person, for 
whom it was intended, and the front was adorned with 
a kind of fringe, composed of grass, which reached 
down to the knees ; around the collar it was adorned 
with beads, and other ornaments, prized by the In- 
dians. 

They passed their time in plays, and roaming about 
from house to house, dancing and sleeping ; and this 
was their only occupation, and the mode of hfe most 
common amongst them from day to day. The old 
men, and the poorer class, devoted a portion of the day 
to constructing house utensils, their bows and arrows, 
and the several instruments used in making their bas- 
kets ; also nets of various dimensions, which were used 
for sundry purposes, such as for catching fish and wild 
fowl, and for carrying heavy burdens on their backs, 
fastened by a strap passed across the forehead. In like 
manner, the females used them for carrying their in- 
fants. 

The women were obliged to gather seeds in the fields, 
prepare them for cooking, and to perform all the mean- 
est offices, as well as the most laborious. It was pain- 
ful in the extreme, to behold them, with their infants 
hanging upon their shoulders, groping about in search 
of herbs or seed, and exposed as they frequently were 
Lo the inclemency of the weather. Often it was the 
:^ase that they returned home severely fatigued, and 
lungry, to cook the fruits of their toil, but, perhaps, 
here would be no wood, the fire extinguished, and their 



288 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

lazy husband either at play or sleeping, so that again 
they would be obliged to go out into" the cold for fuel. 
When the brutal husband came home, or awoke from 
his sluggishness, he expected his meal, and if not pre- 
pared at the moment, invectives and ill treatment were 
the universal consequence. Poor creatures ! more unfor- 
tunate than slaves ! They were in such subjection, that 
for the most trifling offence, punishment was the result, 
and oftentimes death ; but, thank Heaven ! since the 
introduction of the Christian reUgion among this un- 
happy race, the females have received more liberty and 
better treatment. The most wonderful of God's bless- 
ings enjoyed among them, was the great facility with 
which they underwent their accouchement, when it 
would seem as if they endured no suffering. 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 289 



CHAPTER IX. 

OF THEIR PRINCIPAL FEASTS AND DANCES. 

As on all their feast days, dancing was the principal 
ceremony, I will endeavor to describe many of the lu- 
dicrous customs attending it. Such was the delight 
with which they took part in their festivities, that they 
often continued dancing day and night, and sometimes 
entire weeks. Their whole heart and soul were wrapt 
up in the amusement, and hardly a day passed, without 
some portion of it being devoted to this insipid and 
monotonous ceremony. Chinigchinich gave to them as 
a religious precept, that they should adhere strictly to 
this custom, and once, previous to his death, whilst 
dancing, he was carried up among the stars. So this 
accounts for the enthusiasm universally observed among 
them on such occasions, and whoever did not take an 
active part in the festival, they believed would be chas- 
tised, and hated by him. 

The costume used by them, called the tobet, has 
been already mentioned in a previous chapter, when 
describing the dress of the " capitans " or " puplem ;" but 
perhaps, it would not be out of place to repeat the same, 
and in addition, to give a description of that generally 
worn by the females. In the first ^lace, they fixed upon 

26 



290 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP 

the head a kiad of wig, called " emetch^'' that was made 
secure, by a braid of hair passed around the head, into 
which, they inserted various kinds of feathers, forming 
a crown, or as they termed it, an " eneat ;" then, their 
covering for the body, was also prepared from the fea- 
thers of different kinds of birds, which were sewed to- 
gether, and like a sort of petticoat reached down to their 
knees — this they called a "pae/^." The parts exposed, 
were generally painted red and black, and not unfre- 
quently, white. 

The females painted their faces, breasts and arms, 
with a sort of brown varnish, imparting a glossy, and 
rather a disgusting appearance to their persons. From 
their necks, was suspended a variety of ornaments, 
Buch as beads, and pieces of shells. They never danced 
with the males, but each sex by itself, notwithstanding 
all danced at the same time, and after this manner. 
The males formed a file by themselves, and directly 
behind them, say two or three yards distant, the women 
were placed in like manner, and the musicians seated 
themselves upon the ground in front of all. 

Many of their dances were very modest and diversi- 
fied by a number of grotesque movements, so that for a 
short time one could look on, and witness their perform- 
ances with some degree of pleasure ; but they had no 
variety of figures, or songs, and kept on in the same 
monotonous movement. There were persons select- 
ed from both sexes to conduct the music, and for this 




*:;^- 







^^^^ 






AN INDIAN DKESSED IN THE'tOBET" 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 29 L 

purpose they had a kind of instrument, which they 
called ^^paaiiy 

The most celebrated of all their feasts, and which 
was observed yearly, was the one they called the " Pa- 
nes,'' signifying a bird feast. Particular adoration was 
observed by them, for a bird resembling much in appear- 
ance the common buzzard, or vulture, but of larger di- 
mensions. The day selected for the feast, was made 
known to the public on the evening previous to its cele- 
bration, and preparations were made immediately for 
the erection of their Yanquech, into which, when com- 
pletedj and on the opening of the festival, they car- 
ried the Panes in solemn procession, and placed it up- 
on the altar erected for the purpose. Then, immedi- 
ately, all the young, married and unmarried females, 
commenced running to and fro, with great rapidity; 
some in one direction, and some in another, more like 
distracted, than rational beings ; continuing thus racing, 
as it were, whilst the elder class of both sexes remained 
silent spectators of the scene. The '• PwplemJ'' painted 
as has been heretofore described, looking like so many 
devils, in the meantime dancing around their adored 
" Panes J' 

These ceremonies being concluded, they seized upon 
the bird, and carried it in procession to the principal 
Vanquech, or temple, all the assembly uniting in the 
grand display — the Puplem preceding the same, dancing 
and singing. Arriving there, they killed the bird with 
out losing a particle of its blood. The skin was re- 



292 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

moved entire, and preserved with the feathers, as a relic, 
or for the purpose of making their festival garment, 
^^ PaeltP The carcass they interred within the temple 
in a hole prepared previously, around which, all the old 
women soon collected, who, while weeping and moan- 
ing most bitterly, kept throwing upon it various kinds 
of seeds, or particles of food, and exclaiming at the same 
time, " Why did you run away ? would you not have 
been better with us ? you would have made pinole as 
we do, and if you had not run away, you would not 
have become a ' Panes !' " Other expressions equal in 
simplicity, were made use of, and as the ceremony was 
concluding, the dancing commenced again, and contin- 
ued for three days and nights, accompanied with all the 
brutalities to which they were subject. 

The Indians state that said " Panes" was once a fe- 
male, who ran off and retired to the mountains, when 
accidentally meeting with " Chinigchinich," he changed 
her into a bird, and their belief is, that notwithstanding 
they sacrificed it every year, she became again ani- 
mated, and returned to her home among the moun- 
tains. But the ridiculous fable does not end here : for 
they believed, as often as the bird was killed, it became 
multiplied ; because, every year, all the different Capi- 
tanes celebrated the same feast of Panes, and were firm 
in the opinion that the birds sacrificed, were but one, and 
the same female. They had no evidence, however, of 
where she lived, or where she originated, and neither 
were the names of her parents known. The commemo- 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 293 

ration of the festival, was in compliance with the com- 
mands given to them by Chinigchinich. 

The kind of dance common among these natives, was 
introduced by first preparing a large bonfire, around, and 
into which, the men promiscuously jumped, until all the 
fire was extinguished. The females stood a short dis- 
tance from the scene, keeping up a continual scream- 
ing, and moaning, during the ceremony, and not until 
every particle of the fire w^as destroyed did the crying 
cease — then dancing commenced. Should it so happen, 
that they were not successful in extinguishing the flames, 
or if there should remain, and be discovered afterwards, 
any sparks, the dancing did not take place imme- 
diately ; but they remained silent and discontented. It 
was a bad omen, and signified the approach of some 
calamity. This dance w^as generally performed at night, 
but w^hen introduced in their large feasts, and danced 
during the day, then, in addition to the ceremonies al- 
ready desrcibed, they despatched one of the most activ^e 
of the tribe in quest of water, which, invariably, was 
brought from a great distance, and from a place desig- 
nated. When obtained, they emptied the same into a 
hole previously prepared within the Vanquech. Then 
all went up into the temple, each one in his turn, blow- 
ing with his mouth upon the water, and uttering ex- 
pressions which were apparently designed to curse and 
not to bless ; however, the latter was the interpreta- 
tion given to me, and when this was done, they went 
up again in the same order to sprinkle their faces with 

26* 



294 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

the dirty water. The women remained some distance 
off, and on no account were they allowed to touch it. 

Another dance equally ludicrous among these natives, 
was conducted as follows. The males commenced, first 
dancing alone, and continued to do so for a short time, 
when they formed themselves in a line, and one of the 
females came forward in front of th6m, with her arms 
folded upon her breast, and danced up and down the 
file with many graceful turns, and movements, which 
were several times repeated, when she retired, and the 
males resumed their part of the performances — and so 
they continued dancing, the males and females alter- 
nately, until it was time to change the monotony. The}'" 
had another dance, very similar, with this exception — 
that the female was entirely exposed, and whilst she 
was singing and displaying her person in many disgust- 
ing attitudes, the spectators, men, women and children, 
all formed a circle around her. This immodest exhibi- 
tion was also one of the teachings of Chinigchinich, but 
was introduced twice, only, during the )^ear, and then 
outside of the town. 

They had another, which was introduced on the oc- 
casion of the son of the puplem, or chiefs first appear- 
ing in pubhc, adorned with the Tohet. Not only every 
one of the place was invited to attend on that day, but 
also many from the neighboring towns, and the arrange- 
ments were as follows. When all were congregated to- 
gether, the youth was brought forward, and they put 
upon him thepaelt, or robe of feathers, such as was used 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 295 

by Chinigchinich, afterwards the crown, and then the 
exposed parts of his person, they painted black and red. 
Thus arrayed, he commenced dancing, with the paail 
in his right hand, keeping time to the music of the sing- 
ers, that did not cease until the lad was completely ex- 
hausted. If he were unable to dance, then, one of the 
Puplem was dressed in like manner, who, placing him 
upon his shoulder, danced before the assembly. After 
this was accomplished, one of the w^omen rose up ; a 
sister, an aunt, or some one nearly related to the youth, 
in all cases, however, a young person, who immediately 
disrobing herself, danced in presence of the multitude. 



296 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 



CHAPTER X. 

OF MANY OF THEIR EXTRAVAGANCES. 

Superstitions of a ridiculous, and most extrava- 
gant nature, were found associated with these Indians^ 
and even now, in almost every town, or hamlet, the 
child's first education is a belief in their authenticity ; 
and they grow up from infancy familiar with all their 
fabulous traditions. The effect tends to enervate their 
physical facukies, and weaken their mental, so that they 
naturally become a pusillanimous race of people, liable to 
be deceived, imposed upon, and of course easily influ- 
enced by the puplem, and old men, who are their sole 
instructors. 

There are men, and also females, who are believed 
to possess the power of enchantment, to such a degree, 
that no one can withstand their powers ; so that without 
resistance, all immediately acquiesce in their demands. 
The incantation is performed thus : Beneath the left 
arm, in a small leather bag, tliey carry a black ball, 
called by them '-'■aguet^'' composed of a plaster of mes- 
cal^ and wild honey, or, as they term it, "quijotes," or 
" sejat.^ When they wish to make use of the same, to 
exercise its virtues upon any one, the right hand is 
placed upon the leather bag, and without any other 
ceremony, the sorcery is effected. Should the person 



I 



THE INDIANS OF CAI.IKOJIM A. 2\)T 

appear indifferent to the presence of the enchanter, then 
a companion immediately announces the fact, that he 
bears the sacred charm, and their demands are complied 
with, without reply or opposition. The said '-'aguet," is 
a composition unknown to all but the sorcerers, and of 
course, only used by them. How it possesses so much 
virtue, I have never been enabled to discover. Never- 
theless, they give up whatever is asked of them, un- 
der the impression that more calamities will attend 
them, if they do not. 

They have an idea, that if the shadow of the aura, 
in his flying through the air, should fall upon them 
with their heads uncovered, they would become afflicted 
with sores and diseases, and on this account, whenever 
it so happens that a bird of this class approaches, they 
immediately cover their persons. 

They believed when the pelican visited the inland 
population, that it was an omen of death to some one, and 
consequently, they persecuted the bird until it left their 
neighborhood. Another ridiculous belief among them 
was, that the deer hunters could never partake of venison 
which they, themselves, procured, and only of such as 
was taken by others, for the reason, that if they did, 
they would not get any more. And the fishermen, also, 
possessed the same idea with regard to their fish. More 
singular, however, than this, was the custom among the 
young men, when starting for the woods in search of 
rabbits, squirrels, rats, or other animals. They were 
obliged to take a companion for the reason, that he who 



298 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

killed the game, could not eat thereof — if he did, in a 
few days he complained of pains in his limbs, and grad- 
ually became emaciated. On this account, two went 
together, in order to exchange with each other the re- 
sult of their excursion. This infliction did not extend 
to every one who partook of the game of his own ta- 
king, but only to such as were guilty of consuming it 
secretly. Neither was it incurable, for they had among 
them certain sorcerers possessing the power to reinstate 
them in their former health and contentment. 

When the sun, or moon, was eclipsed, they appeared 
much frightened ; and the men, women, and children, 
were heard crying and shouting, whilst throwing sand 
into the air, and beating with sticks upon dry hides, or 
upon the ground. This was done, as they said, to scare 
away a large and ferocious monster, who would devour the 
sun and moon, and if he were permitted to accomplish 
the entire consumption of either, that is, if there should 
be a total eclipse, all would immediately die, and the 
world would come to an end. 

At the time of new moon, and on the first day of its 
appearance, it was usual amongst them to call together 
all the young men for the purpose of its celebration. 
A '• correr la luna !" shouted one of the old men. Come, 
my boys, the moon ! the moon ! Immediately, racing 
commenced, and without order they ran about as if 
they were distracted, whilst the old men danced in a 
circle, saying the following words^— " As the moon dieth, 
and Cometh to life again, so we also having to die, will 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 299 

again live." — thus manifesting clearly the resurrection 
of the flesh. How this was understood by them, I did 
not ascertain, for they could not explain it, and they 
merely observed the ceremony, on account of its having 
been practised by their ancestors. 

Another belief, current with the 3^ounger part of the 
females of the community, was, that the meteoric ap- 
pearances often beheld in the evening, were the Tacui- 
eh, or children of the moon, and whenever they beheld 
them, they fell upon the ground, and covered their heads, 
fearing if seen by them, that their faces would become 
ugly, and diseased. They had amongst them certain 
individuals who pretended to be descendants of the 
" Coyote " eaters of human flesh — ^not as the cannibals 
and Mexicans — ^but their manner of proceeding was af- 
ter the following disgusting custom. Whenever a Cap- 
tain, or one of the Puplem, died, they sent for the EnOj 
who was thus called before he officiated in his duties, 
and afterwards " Tacue," signifying " an eater." Hav- 
ing arrived at the place, where they had placed the dead 
body, he immediately cut off" a large piece from the neck, 
and the back, near the shoulder, and consumed the flesh 
in its raw state, in presence of the multitude assembled 
to witness the performance. This was always done in 
commemoration of the feat performed by the "Coyote" 
upon the body of the great Captain Ouiot, as has been 
already recounted in a previous chapter. For this, Eno 
was well remunerated, and every one contributed for the 
purpose. The young of both sexes, were very much 



300 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

afraid of this Tacue, and looked upon him as a sor- 
cerer. 

These Indians were not entirely destitute of a 
knowledge of the universal deluge, but how, or from 
whence, they received the same, I could never under- 
stand. Some of their songs refer to it ; and they have 
a tradition that, at a time very remote, the sea began to 
swell and roll in upon the plains, and fill the valleys, 
until it had covered the mountains ; and thus nearly all 
the human race and animals were destroyed, excepting 
a few, who had resorted to a very high mountain 
which the waters did not reach. But the songs give a 
more distinct relation of the same, and they state that 
the descendants of Captain Ouiot asked of Chinigchi- 
nich vengeance upon their chief — that he appeared unto 
them, and said to those endowed with the power, " Ye 
" are the ones to achieve vengeance — ye who cause it to 
'^ rain ! Do this, and so inundate the earth, that every Uv- 
" ing being will be destroyed." The rains commenced, 
the sea was troubled, and swelled in upon the earth, 
covering the plains, and rising until it had overspread 
the highest land, excepting a high mountain, where, 
the few had gone with the one who had caused it to 
rain, and thus every other animal was destroyed upon 
the face of the earth. These songs were supplications to 
Chinigchinich to drown their enemies. If their oppo- 
nents heard them, they sang others in opposition, which 
in substance ran thus : " We are not afraid, because 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 301 

" Chinigchinich does not wish to, neither will he de» 
"stroy the world by another inundation." Without 
doubt this account has reference to the universal deluge, 
and the promise God made, that there should not be an- 
other. 

27 






302 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 



CHAPTER XI 



THEIR CALENDAR. 



We cannot but believe that the calendar is one of 
the most important and the most necessary of inven- 
tions. But theirs, if we may call it such, differed but 
very little from the natural instinct of the brute crea- 
tion, which possessed a knowledge of time, and the sea- 
sons for their sustenance and procreation. We see that 
many animals change their places, and even cKmates, at 
a time prefixed ; either on account of the temperature 
or want of food ; and at the proper time for their return 
they visit again the same locations. The Indians had 
the same custom, as regards the changing from place to 
place ; for in the winter they resided in one place, and 
in summer in another. This was general amongst 
them, excepting with those located on the sea-coast, who 
seldom removed, because their maintenance was derived 
from the sea ; unlike the others who subsisted entirely 
upon fruits and seeds of the fields. Their calendar con- 
tained merely the names of the months, directing the 
times or seasons for the collecting of their different seeds, 
and produce of the earth. Not all of them possessed 
this knowledge ; it being confined to the Piiplem who 
were the criers that informed them when to cultivate 
their fields, and observe other re/juisitions. In the first 



I 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 303 

place, they were destitute of chronology? by which to 
calculate the period of time transpired ; hence, the diffi- 
culty in giving any account of their antiquities, as they 
had neither figures nor signs to preserve them ; and 
possessing no idea of the past, their thoughts were limit- 
ed solely to the present. On this account their calendar 
was confined to the months of the year, but as they reck- 
oned these by the number of moons, they differed from 
the " sun's reckoning," having almost every year a less 
number of days — for at the conclusion of the moon in 
December, that is, at the conjunction, they calculated 
the return of the sun from the Tropic of Capricorn ; and 
another year commenced, the Indian saying " the sun 
has arrived at his home." When the new year begun, 
no thought was given to the past ; and on this account, 
even amongst the most intelligent, they coul I not tell 
the number of years which had transpired, when desi- 
rous of giving an idea of any remote event. 

They observed with greater attention and celebrated 
with more pomp, the sun's arrival at the tropic of Capri- 
corn, than they did his reaching the tropic of Cancer, 
for the reason, that, as they were situated ten degrees 
from the latter, they were pleased at the sun's approach 
towards them ; for it returned to ripen their fruits and 
seeds, to give warmth to the atmosphere, and enliven 
again the fields with beauty and increase. 

The names of the months were as follows : — 

Aapcomil, December and January. 

Peret, February. 



304 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 



Yarmar, 


March. 


Alasoguil, 


April. 


Tocoboaich, 


May. 


Sintecar, 


June and July 


CucLiatj 


August. 


Lalavaich, 


September. 


Aguitscorael, 


October. 


Aaguit, 


November. 



In order to comprehend the manner in which they 
counted the months, it is necessary to know that their 
year commenced always on the 21st day of December, 
and upon the sun's arrival at the tropic — consequently, 
the days which transpired between the last conjunction 
and the 21st were not noticed — or, in their mode of ex- 
planation, " There was no day." The month " Aapco- 
mil" always begun on the 21st, without any regard to 
the moon's age, and not only continued during the re- 
mainder of its term, but throughout the one following ; 
thus including nearly two moons. Sometimes it so hap- 
pened that the moon's conjunction occurred on the 21st 
or afterwards, in which case two entire moons were 
counted in the first month. Nearly the same occurrence 
took place in " Sintecar," with this difference only, that 
if the sun's arrival at the tropic of Cancer fell upon the 
day of the moon's full, then the month began ; but the 
days previous to this were made use of, and annexed to 
the antecedent " Tocoboaich," — that is, the month did 
not expire with the conjunction, but at the full ; when 
the other began, and continued throughout the follow- 



1 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA, 305 

ing moon. All the other months of the year com- 
menced with the conjunction, rtierefore, they seldom 
agreed with ours. 

Their calendar contained no more ; and served, prin- 
cipally, to denote when to harvest the grain, celebrate 
their feasts, and commemorate the death of their friends. 
But of the number of days contained in their months, 
they had no knowledge whatever, and much less of 
those composing the year — so that the phases of the 
moon were their only guide, and these informed them 
when they were to observe tlieir feastings, which never 
fell upon the same day in any other year. The w^ay 
they ascertained when to celebrate them, was as fol- 
lows. When the month arrived, one of the Puplem (to 
whom belonged the privilege of holding the feast) ob- 
served with attention the moon's aspect ; and when its 
appearance denoted the time, he made known the fact 
to the public by sending a crier through the town. 

In like manner, they proceeded, in regard to the anni- 
versaries of the dead, although they were never celebra- 
ted on the same day in any other year, as that on 
which the person died. At the time of the decease of a 
captain, or of one of the Puplem, (for they paid no at- 
tention to others) a Piil observed the moon's aspect, also 
the month in w^hich the death occurred ; and in the fol- 
lowing year, in the same month, when the moon's as- 
pect was the same, they celebrated the anniversary. 

27* 



306 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 



CHAPTER XII. 



THE INDIAN WARS. 



War was invented by men, and for the purpose of 
taking from each other, their estates and other property, 
or for carrying into effect their revengeful dispositions. 
Thus it was with these Indians, whose battles were fre- 
quent, and often declared from the most trivial causes. 
A consultation was not necessary to decide if the war 
were just or unjust, but to ascertain if their force were 
sufficient, and to provide measures whereby they might 
take advantage of, and surprise their adversaries. War 
was never waged by them for conquest, but for revenge ; 
and in many cases for some affront given to their an- 
cestors, which had remained unavenged. Their quar- 
rels and disputes arose from trivial motives, for their 
wealth was trifling, and consisted merely of seeds, skins, 
or beads, which were universally esteemed amongst 
them as money. Also, when a chief neglected to re- 
turn the customary present at their festivities, of which 
I have before treated, war was declared, and without 
even giving him notice. Again, if an Indian of one 
place stole anything from one of another place, although 
it might be ^o trifling a thing as a rabbit, a squirrel, or, 
ornament of some kind, it was sufficient among them to 
cause a war. 



THE INDIANS OP CALIFORNIA. 307 

Whenever a captain determined to make war upon 
another chief, he called together the puplem, and re- 
vealed to them his desire to make war upon such a 
town, for reasons which he explained, and it was dis- 

I cussed by the body, whether they were sufficient of 
themselves to conquer. If sensible of their inferiori- 
.ty, some other friendly tribes were invited to join with 
them, to whom they sent presents of as costly a kind as 
their treasury w^ould admit ; and if they acquiesced, 
then the day was fixed upon to assemble for battle. All 
this was conducted secretly, but, nevertheless, the par- 
ties to be attacked were generally warned of their dan- 
ger, and of course prepared for the conflict. The war 
being determined upon, a crier was sent around during 
the evening, exhorting all the people to repair on the 
following day, at an early hour, to the residence of the 
chief, and when there congregated, he ordered them to 
prepare their arms of bows and arrows ; and to the fe- 
males, he dehvered grain, for them to grind into flour, 
which they called pinole. But the reason for such 
measures was not revealed. How^ever, when the day 
was decided upon for the marching of the expedition, 
then the crier went around a second time, and com- 
manded them to repair as before, to the residence of the 
chief ; and all went — the men with their bows and ar- 
rows, and the women with their pinoles. Having as- 
sembled before the vanquech, where the captain and 
puplem had resorted, according to the custom, the crier 
explained to the people why such preparations w^ere 



308 HISTORICAL ACc'OLNT OF 

made — why war was declared, and the young men were 
urged to combat and revenge. Immediately commenced 
the necessary preparations — each put on his dress, and 
uniform, corresponding to his rank. The women, in 
like manner, adorned themselves for the occasion, and 
thus they started off for the battle ground, old and 
young — the females carrying the provisions, and upon 
their backs their infant children. Their order of march 
was as follows : — The captain, or one appointed by him, 
took the lead at the head of the young men — in suc- 
cession followed the older ones, and the women closed 
up the rear, it being their duty to gather up the arrows 
of the opposing force w^hich were scattered around them, 
and distribute the same among their own w^arriors. 
Should one of their own party be killed or wounded, 
they were obliged to remove him to a place of security, 
so that the enemy could not get at him. No quarter 
was ever given, and consequently, no prisoners were 
ever made among the men, excepting of such as were 
killed, or mortally wounded. These were immediately 
decapitated by some old men appointed for the purpose, 
and the hair taken from the heads, together with the 
scalps, which were dried and cured, after the manner 
of dressing their skins, and preserved as trophies of vic- 
tory. The Avomen and children taken prisoners, were 
either disposed of, by sale, or detained by the captain as 
slaves. 

When celebrating their grand feasts, it was custom- 
ary to expose in public the scalps taken in war ; and 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 309 

for this purpose they were suspended from a high pole, 
erected near the vanquech. Sometimes scalps were re- 
deemed by paying largely ; but the women and chil- 
dren were never released, — ever remaining as slaves to 
their enemies, unless fortunate enough to escape to the 
protection of their own nation. 



310 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 



CHAPTER XIII. 

THEIR FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 

Before treating upon the subject of their manner 
of interment, I will just refer to the remedies used for 
their diseases. They possessed some knowledge of the 
virtues of certain medicinal herbs, and the external ap- 
plication of them to cutaneous disorders ; but for inter- 
nal diseases, such as fevers, &c., they always resorted to 
cold baths. For pains in the head, immediate applica- 
tion of cold water was the remedy. For external dis- 
eases, such as tumors, swellings, sores and rheumatic 
pains, they made use of various herbs, known to us, and 
called sage, rosemary, and nettle-plant — which were ap- 
plied in a plaster. They made use of a kind of black 
rosin also, which was very oily, and manufactured from 
certain seeds. When attacked with pain in the stom- 
ach they inhaled the smoke of these plants, and if af- 
flicted with any ordinary pain, a whipping, with nettles, 
was applied to the part affected, and frequently large 
ants. 

For disease of the liver, fevers, and all malignant 
complaints, I have not discovered that they made use 
of any remedies but the cold water baths, before men- 
tioned. Sometimes the patient, entirely exposed, was 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 311 

laid upon a quantity of dry ashes or sand, and at his 
feet blazed a scorching fire, without regard to the sea- 
son. At his head stood a small vessel of water, and 
sometimes gruel, that he might partake of them, if he 
chose, but no persuasions were ever used on the part of 
his friends to induce him to do so, if he did not feel in- 
clined. He was never left alone, being attended by 
many of his friends, both day and night ; and thus he 
remained until either nature, or the disease, conquered. 
As soon as any one fell ill, they immediately sent for 
the physician, who was one of the puple7n^ or sooth- 
sayers before spoken of. It nurst be understood that 
not all of the puplerti possessed the necessary qualifi- 
cations, but only those who received them by succes- 
sion. When they appeared before the patient, it was 
always with an air of great mystery. A strict ex- 
amination into the state of the patient, was the com- 
mencement of their performances, and divers infirmities 
were explained, and their causes — all originating from 
the introduction of certain particles into the body of the 
patient, such as the hairs of various animals, bones, 
stones, briers, sticks, <fec., which produced the pain or 
infirmity. Before prescribing anything, they made use 
of many superstitious ceremonies. In the first place, 
the patient was examined from head to foot, and no part 
of his body remained untouched. Then the painful 
parts became the topic of discussion, and were repre- 
sented as having within them something of a hard sub- 
stance, such as a stone, splinter, or bone, and of course, 



312 HiJSTORKViL ACCOUNT OF 

their success in removing the disease was ever a matter 
of great uncertainty ; but still, they would use all their 
skill, and endeavor to restore him to health. They 
placed feathers upon his head, and encircled him en- 
tirely with these, and other articles, such as horse-hair, 
grass, beads, and hairs of the head ; blowing at the same 
time with their mouths towards the four cardinal points, 
and muttering to themselves certain low sounds — cer- 
tain mysterious words — accompanied with antic ges- 
ticulations, of which no one knew the meaning. After 
this, one of them applied his lips to the part affected, 
and pretended to draw from it, by suction, the parti- 
cles, which they had stated as being within, and exposed 
them to all present. The spectators, as well as the pa- 
tient, placed strict confidence in the fact, and were satis- 
fied, whether he recovered or died. When the patient 
did not recover from his disease, the puplem would say, 
it was because Chinigchinich had sent him the infir- 
mity, as a chastisement for some act of disobedience, 
and that he must reconcile himself to death. 

There were many of these impostors spread about the 
country, who, after being well fed and paid for their ser- 
vices J made all manner of ridicule of their too credulous 
companions. Wonderful as it may appear, oftentimes 
they performed cures, when the patients were apparent- 
ly fast verging into eternity, and in the space of twen- 
ty-four hours, by their extravagances and witchcraft, 
they have enabled them to rise from a bed of sickness, 
and unite with their companions in their domestic em- 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 313 

ployments. 1 will relate a case which happened in the 
mission of "La Purissimaj" A. D. 1809, which will 
serve to confirm the truth of the preceding statement. 
A young woman of eighteen years of age, had been sick 
for nearly a year, suffering from the effects of dysentery 
and fever, so that she had wasted away almost to a 
skeleton, and was to all appearances dying ; having re- 
ceived the holy sacrament preparatory to her supposed 
departure. One morning, whilst walking in the garden 
of the mission, I saw her sitting with other females per- 
forming the task of clearing the grass ; surprised at be- 
holding her there, when I supposed her dying, I asked 
her how she felt? Her mother, who was at her side, 
replied to the question, and said that she was well, be- 
cause such a one (naming one of the sorcerers) had ta- 
ken from her some bear's hairs, which were the cause 
of her illness, and, immediately, she was restored. 1 
inquired how they were introduced into her stomach 
and how long she had had them? She replied, that 
when in childhood, and about eight or nine years old, 
one night, whilst asleep with other children in a room 
by themselves, a bear came and placed some of l:is hairs 
on her stomach. How he came there, or how the hairs 
got into her stomach, she could not explain ; for all that 
she knew about it, had been stated to her by the sor- 
cerer. This was all deception, of course, but still it hap- 
pened from that day, that the girl improved in health, 
and, in a short time, was as robust and hearty as any 



one: 



28 



314 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

When the patient died under the attendance of these 
physicians, then preparations were made for his sepul- 
ture, or the burning of his body, according to a custom 
observed here, in commemoration of the last ceremonies 
rendered to the remains of their grand chieftain Ouiot. 
They did not put into immediate execution the sol- 
emn duties and funeral performances, but suffered 
several hours to elapse, that they might be assured of 
his death. In the meantime the pile was prepared, and 
the person summoned, who officiated on such occasions 
in applying the torch ; for it was usual, in this neigh- 
borhood, to employ certain characters, who made their 
livelihood by it, and who, generally, were confined to 
particular families. As soon as every thing was pre- 
pared, and the time had arrived for the ceremony, they 
bore the corpse to the place of sacrifice, where it was 
laid upon the faggots. Then the friends of the deceas- 
ed retired, and the burner (so called) set fire to the 
pile, and remained near the spot until all was consumed 
to ashes. The ceremony being concluded on his part, he 
was paid for his services, and withdrew. Every thing 
of use, belonging to the deceased, such as his bow and 
arrows, feathers, beads, skins, (fcc. were consumed with 
him, whilst his relatives and friends added, also, other 
articles of value to the sacrifice, but during the scene of 
burning they did not observe any particular ceremony, 
nor had they any; for as soon as the burner gave no- 
tice that he had performed his task, they all retired out- 
side of the town to mourn the decease of their friend. 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 315 

The puplem sang songs, while the relatives wept ; and 
the substance of their canticles was merely a relation of 
the cause of the infirmity — the location of the disease — • 
when it first commenced, and its course throughout the 
body, until it attacked the heart, when he died, thus 
naming over all the parts of the .human frame. These 
songs were generally repeated over and over for three 
days and nights, and then they returned to their 
homes. 

The mode of testifying their grief by outward ap- 
pearance, was by shortening the hair of their heads ; 
and in conformity to the kin of the deceased, so they 
regulated the custom. For the loss of a parent, wife or 
child, the head was completely shorn ; for a distant rel- 
ative, they cut off merely one half of the length, and for 
a friend, only the extremity ; but in all cases, however, 
they were governed entirely by the love and attach- 
ment for the deceased. The same custom is now in 
use, and not only applied to deaths, but to their disap- 
pointments and adversities in life, thus making public 
demonstration of their sorrow. 



316 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 



CHAPTER XIV. 

THE IMMORTALITY OF THE SOUL. 

This chapter may cause some perplexity, from the 
circumstance of its treating of that which is impercepti- 
ble to the senses ; of a substance incorporeal and spirit- 
ual. Still, I can in a very few words make known the 
belief of these Indians, relative to the rational soul, and 
what they understood concerning its immortality. There 
are arguments pro and con, w^hich are of particular in- 
terest, inasmuch as they involve the future destiny 
of man : I will be more explicit in my remarks here, 
than in the preceding chapter, and recount all that I 
have been enabled to acquire relative to the subject. 

In their gentilism, they were undoubtedly material- 
ists, for they beUeved that the soul was the " espiritu 
vital,^^ received from the air, which they breathed, and 
which they called ^^piuts,^^ signifying " to liveJ^ They 
possessed no knowledge, nor did they believe in the ex- 
istence of any other substance than the material body. 
On this account they said, (and many believe it at the 
present time,) that man was composed of bones, flesh and 
blood only ; for ^'•piuts,''^ which is the breath, is another 
thing, like wind, that goes and comes. The body they 
called "pefacan^^^ a term applied, to the brute creation 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 317 

as well as man, or rather, to all living or animated be- 
ings. To designate the soul belonging to the body from 
the ^'espiritii vital,^^ they possessed no term but ^'' pii- 
suni,'' which is general in its meaning, and signifies a 
" substance within," applied to things animate and in- 
animate, and to the heart, on account of its location, 
and particular importance to the body. 

They penetrated no farther than was perceptible to 
the sense, for the reason that the spirituality of the soul 
was incomprehensible to them ; they only understand- 
ing the materials of the body. Thus they were mate- 
rialists, for they said that when the body died, and was 
burnt, naught remained, for all was consumed. Death, 
they believed was an entity, real and invisible, who, 
when in anger with any one, took away by degrees his 
breath, until all was removed, and then the person died. 
I have observed, in a previous chapter, that the punish- 
ments they so much feared from Chinigchinich, were 
all corporeal, such as falling over stones, and upon the 
earth — the bite of the serpent, bears, &c. ; and lastly, 
death — the termination, without reference to pain, pun- 
ishment, or glory afterwards. I think this sufficient 
to prove that they were materialists ; but as they relate 
a thousand novel accounts, relative to the immortahty 
of the soul, which have proceeded from dreams or de- 
lirium, I will recount some of them, as they were re- 
lated to me. 

Materialists, as I have supposed them, (without add- 
ing other convincing reasons, such as the great insensi- 

28* 



318 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

bility manifested at the hour of their death — the httle 
inclination for divine things, and desire for the unholy, 
which go far to show plainly their want of knowledge 
of the rational soul, and consequently of its immortal- 
ity ;) still, the words or expressions, made use of in the 
tenth chapter relative to the moon, are of opposing force 
— viz.j " that as the moon dieth and cometh to life 
again, so we, having to die, will again live." But, as I 
observed in the chapter cited, 1 can not comprehend 
how they understood it — nor can I think that their 
ancestors beheved in the resurrection of the flesh. They 
may have had such belief many ages back, and the tra- 
dition may have been preserved in songs. Other verses 
are used in opposition, and are frequently sung at their 
festivals — viz., '• Let us eat, for we shall die, and then 
all will be finished," — words similar in sense to the pas- 
sage in the Holy Scriptures, referring to the expressions 
of the foolish young men. 

Let us refer now to some of the accounts respecting the 
soul's immortality. It is affirmed by some, that " when 
an Indian died, he went to the abode of his God Chi- 
nigchinich, a sort of earthly paradise, called, ^ tolmec^ 
applicable, more properly, to hell ; for it implies a loca- 
tion below the earth, and since their conversion, the 
same word is made use of in the catechism, to denote 
the abode of Satan. They believed that Chinigchinich 
" resided in that region — that there was plenty to 
eat and drink, and to wear — that there was constant 
dancmg and festivity — that no one labored— no one was 



THE INDIANS OP CALIFORNIA. 319 

sorrowful ; but on the contrary, all were contented and 
happy — every one did as they pleased, and selected the 
number of wives they wished." The reader will com- 
pare this belief with tlie doctrine of the immortality of 
the souL It was taught by the moderns, undoubtedly 
and since their conversion to Christianity ; for the old 
men at the time of their gentilism, had no such idea ; 
to confirm which, I will relate the following account, as 
it was given to me by a female^ who had been many 
years a convert to Christianity. 

In the year 1817, in the mission of St. Juan Capis- 
trano, I visited this woman, who was recovering from a 
severe attack of malignant fever. When in the worst 
stage of the disease, and in a state of paroxysm, she 
said, that she died, and the Indians, her relatives, carried 
her to Chinigchinich, where she beheld a great number 
of men and womeiL Some were dancing, some play- 
ing, and others were bathing in a stream of pure, trans- 
parent water. The " rancheria " was large and beauti- 
ful, and the houses were of different construction from 
those in modern use. Having arrived at the house of 
Chinigchinicli, she was informed that she could not en- 
ter, to reside with them yet ; that she must return to 
her home. Food was given to her, of delicious quality, 
such as she had never eaten before, soon after w^iich, she 
returned without having beheld Chinigchinich ; but she 
eould not recollect if she came alone, or if she were ac- 
companied by others. It is evident that this account was 
the result of dehrium, for I visited her during the par- 



320 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

oxysm^ when she partook of a glass of warm water, 
sweetened, that I administered myself, and of which 
she drank the whole. This water may have been the 
repast which she referred to, as having been given to 
her in the house of Chinigchinich ; it caused her to 
perspire profusely, and broke the fever, so that in a few 
days she recovered. 

The ancients said, that when an Indian died, though 
the body was burnt, still the heart did not consume — 
(which must be the spirit or soul, for the heart of tlesh, 
of course, would perish with the body) — that it went to 
a place destined by Chinigchinich. If a chief, or one 
of the puplem, it went to dwell among the stars, and 
like them throw its light upon the earth. For this rea- 
son, they said that the planets, and most luminous 
bodies, were their hearts, or in other words, they were 
themselves, in reality. 

In the year 1821, there appeared in the N.E. a 
comet. The Indians believed, with undoubted faith, 
that it was a chief of a rancheria, who had died ; and 
who, previous to his departure, had told them, that he 
should in time behold them again from the heavens. 
This idea they received from their ancient traditions, 
because, according to SetUonio, the gentiles believed, 
that at the hour of the death of any illustrious person- 
age (as was seen at the death of Julius Caesar), there 
appeared in the heavens some notable meteor, which 
was translated to the stars, and arranged among the 
Gods. The reason given why the chiefs and puplem, 



THE INDIANS OP CALIFORNIA. 321 

alone, went to the heaven of stars, and that the other 
people did not, is this : because •' Taciie^'' " the eater 
of human flesh," had eaten of them previous to their 
being burnt ; and if it happened that he did not eat of 
them, in consequence of their dying in the power of 
their enemies, or on account of their being drowned, then 
they did not go to the stars, but to another place, to 
which they were destined by Chinigchinich. Others, 
who were not of noble rank, w^ere doomed to the borders 
of the sea, or to the hills, mountains, valleys, or forests ; 
and there they remained an indefinite time, while 
Chinigchinich held them doing penance for the faults 
they had committed, in not obeying his precepts, but 
after the performance of said penance, whether they re- 
turned to their former shape, or removed to any other 
•location, they could not tell. 

The Indians, when they saw any strange thing, or 
imagined that they beheld any extraordinary figure, said, 
that it was a ghost, and considered it a bad omen — the 
forerunner of misfortune. They believed, that if the 
dead appeared to anyone, it was for the purpose of inju- 
ry, and particularly so, if appearing to females, whom, 
weak and timid as they were, it required but little to ter- 
rify. On this account, there were villains, who person- 
ated such figures to effect their brutal purposes. This 
custom was not confined to the Indians in their heathen 
state, but prevailed also among those who had become 
christianized. I will relate an occurrence of the kind, 
which took place in this neighborhood. 



322 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

On a certain occasion, two females, mother and 
daughter-in-law, wxnt out in search of wild fruits, which 
they called " naut^ When in the vicinity of a grove, 
they heard loud groans and lamentations — a breaking 
of the shrubbery, and Umbs of trees — then followed a 
voice, caUing upon the daughter, by her proper name, 
to come to the place, or she would be murdered. The 
poor girl, filled with terror, and believing it an apparition, 
went into the grove, where she beheld one, who appear- 
ed, dressed in feathers from head to foot, with his face 
covered. She was told that he was such a one, who 
died at such a time, and that Chinigchinich confined 
him there. He told her to inform his widow, that she 
must resort to a certain place at night. On her return 
home, she gave the message to the woman, who imme- 
diately went to the spot directed, to behold her departed 
husband, and to ascertain his wishes. At first, she 
could find no one ; but in a little while, she heard a 
voice, which said to her that she must remain until 
night. Supposing that in reality it was the voice of her 
deceased husband, she rejoiced greatly, for, they had 
loved each other much in their youth. She remained 
with him three nights — during which time, he spoke to 
her but very little, and then in a low and disguised 
voice. She went about in the daytime in search of 
fruits, and he, on return of evening, would bring her 
meat, that she might eat. On tlie third day, in the 
morning, after separating, she went out upon a hill, and 
beheld the same person in conversation with another ; 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 323 

she knew them both, and returned immediately to the 
Mission, where she gave information, and many of her 
friends went out to the place, and discovered them in a 
cave with three hostile Indians. 

Others remained about the houses of widows, and 
the houses of their relatives, terrifying them and doing 
them injury ; and on this account, it was the custom 
whenever the deceased were burnt, to burn also the 
houses, and rebuild in another direction, so that when 
the husbands returned in search of them, there would be 
nothing remaining to denote their existence, and thus 
they would escape their persecutions. The converted 
Indians of the present day, have the same idea. 

There is another case which I witnessed in the Mis- 
sion of St. Luis Rey, in the year 1813 — a Christian 
died, and the Indians said that he was poisoned or be- 
witched, by another Christian of the same mission — that 
his death was the result of witchcraft. The deceased 
in his lifetime possessed a small garden, where he was 
accustomed to sow yearly, certain grain and seeds. 
This he left to a relative at a time when the plants 
were in blossom ; but immediately everything dried up 
and was destroyed, so that nothing was harvested of 
either grain or fruit. The plants whilst young were 
fresh and fruitful, hke the plants in the surrounding gar- 
dens, but the moment the blossoms appeared as if ready 
to produce seed, they died ; so that, in the course of 
one night, nearly all were destroyed as if consumed by 
fire. The Indians said that the deceased was seen mov- 



324 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

ing about at night in every direction of the garden, and 
that whatever he touched, perished. This was revealed 
to them by an old woman who owned the adjoining 
garden, and who related the story to me, also, so that I 
was induced to go to the place in order to witness the 
same, and found, as she had stated, the greater part of 
the plants dead, or in a perishing state ; some, however, 
were still flourishing. These I took particular notice 
of, and on the following day I returned, and found sev- 
en of them, consisting of corn, pumpkins and watermel- 
ons, dried up, and consumed to their roots. In this way 
the whole was destroyed. Said Indian died of dysen- 
tery^ and not by witchcraft, nor poison as believed. 
They were superstitious in their belief that whoever 
died in this way, died of poison, and this accounts for 
the tradition of the death of their grand captain Ouiot. 
We have seen that the story of the garden was given 
by an old woman, and for this reason is entitled to 
but little credit, but that which has caused me some 
difficulty to explain is, why the plants were thus de- 
cayed. It was not from want of care, or from disease 
received from insects, or animals either, because, if so, 
there would have appeared spots about them, and they 
would not have been diseased to their very roots. This 
may excite wonder in the reader, and I have used ev- 
ery diligence possible, to ascertain the cause, but with- 
out success. What I conjecture is this — that the Devil 
did all this, that but few should escape from his hands, 
and the motive, I have for believing so, is, that at this 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA, 325 

time, there were many gentiles in the mission, princi- 
pally sorcerers, (some were catechumens, and others not) 
who night after night performed their heathen ceremo- 
nies. 

What has been said, I think is sufficient to prove, that 
these accounts and stories relative to the immortahty 
of the soul, are mere fables, frauds and inventions to 
deceive the simple : that the first, and original settlers 
in this region, had a knowledge of the spirituaUty of 
the soul, and, consequently, of its immortahty ; that 
by tradition, they have preserved the same without be- 
lieving it, and perhaps ages before, they had a totally 
different account. We often perceive that a history, by 
numerous editions and revisals, loses much of its origi- 
nality ; how much more liable to corruption, tradition 
must be, among an ignorant race like the Indians. 
But little respect is attached to their belief of the spirit- 
ual substance with which we are adorned, not only by 
the rude, and ignorant of the present day, but, by the 
wisest, and best instructed in our Holy Religion. To 
remove all doubt from the reader, that he may not think 
my ideas extravagant, I will relate two events which 
happened in places where I have resided. 

In the year 1808, I was a missionary in the mission 
of " La Purissima," when a young man of the establish- 
ment became seriously indisposed. His age was 23 
years, he had been reared from infancy by the fathers, 
and was instructed in every thing appertaining to re- 
ligion ; often serving as interpreter for ihem, and was 

29 



326 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

almost always with them. When first attacked, he re- 
fused to take medicine, nor could he be persuaded to do 
so, by any advice of the fathers ; but he went off in 
search of one of the quack physicians, who practised 
upon him all his diabolical art. The fathers, seeing 
that he became worse, daily exhorted him to confess, 
and prepare for death like a Christian ; but he declined, 
with the excuse that he was weak, he required exami- 
nation, and (as was the opinion of the quack,) he did 
not think he should die. But, alas ! he was deceived ; 
for when the doctor saw that his chicanery and witch- 
craft, had no effect for the better, he forsook him, say- 
ing, " that as he had always believed the teachings of 
the priests, his God, (or more properly his devil), was an- 
gered and sent him death as a punishment." Hearing 
this, the poor invalid concluded to confess — he did so, 
but not with that satisfaction to the fathers which they 
had desired, and very soon after, death followed. 

In the year 1817, in the mission of St. Juan Capis- 
trano, an Indian 35 years of age, who, like the one just 
mentioned, was well instructed, became afflicted with a 
dangerous disease, and died. No persuasion on the 
part of his friends, or exhortations of the priests, could 
prevail upon him to confess, and partake of the holy 
sacrament ; at the bare proposal, he became frantic, 
and uttered expressions, which were contemptuous and 
blasphemous. A short time previous to his death, I 
called to see him, to give him that consolation, which 
the promises of our holy rehgiop impart to the penitent 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 327 

soul, and I urged him, since lie could do no more, to re- 
ceive the extreme unction, to ask pardon for his sins, for 
God was infinite in his mercy to the repentant sinner. 
But all in vain ! my words were ineffectual, and they 
were spurned with disgust. His limbs were extended — • 
the froth came from his mouth — his eyes rolled back 
into his head, presenting a true picture of the appear- 
ance of one condemned to the torments of hell ; and 
three persons were insufficient to confine him. These 
demonstrations seemed to me, the effects of the violence 
of the malady, but after a while his tranquillity return- 
ed, and some one exclaimed " Why do you not con- 
fess ?" " Because I will not," he rephed, with anger. 
" If I have been deceived whilst living, I do not wish to 
die in the delusion !" These were his last words ; for 
soon after, he expired, and there remained a corpse, truly 
horrible and revolting to the sight. Consider, what 
must have been my feehngs ! Such a spectacle before 
me, revealing to the letter the words of David, " Peca- 
tor videhit et irascetur^ dentibus suis fremet et ta- 
bescet, desideriutJi "peccatorum jyeribitP 

I presume there may be some persons who will say, 
notwithstanding these accounts, that they are not satis- 
factory evidences of a total want of faith and be- 
lief ; for rare occurrences happen every where, and God 
has permitted them to take place for his own inexplica- 
ble purposes, and for advantages resulting to others. 
To this I concede, but exceptions are few. These ac- 
counts generally conform to each other in substance, 



328 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

and he, who has perused them with attention, or is fa- 
miUar with the character of these Indians, knowing that 
when they appear the most inteUigent, and entitled to 
the greatest confidence, they are the least to be trusted ; 
he will, I say, agree with me, generally, regarding 
their belief ; as all their operations are accompanied by 
stratagems and dissimulation, they easily gain our con- 
fidence, and at every pass we are deluded. 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 329 



CHAPTER XY. 

ORIGIN OF THE POPULATION OF THE MISSION OF ST. JUAN 
CAPISTRANO. 

Having thus far dwelt upon the usages, behef, and 
customs of these Indians, it may not be uninteresting 
to know the origin of those who first settled in the 
neighborhood of St. Juan, the account of which, will 
contain many absurdities, and some equally extrava- 
gant as those already related. The first, or earliest 
people, w^ho populated this section of the country, emi- 
grated from a place called " Sejat," distant N.E. from 
the mission, seven or eight leagues, and in the middle 
of a valley, now known by the name of " el Rancho de 
los Nietos." Originally, the inhabitants w^ere numer- 
ous, but the success, and influence of a holy conquest 
gradually eradicated their attachment to " Sejat^ and 
all, finally, became subject to the spiritual, as w^ell as 
temporal administration of the ecclesiastical missions. 
The chief, named " Oyaison^^ which name implies 
" wisdom " or " intelligence," and his wife, called " Siro- 
rum^^ signifying that which is noisy, (probably alluding 
to the noise made by the shells and beads attached to 
her dress), had three children, called Coronne, " Tid- 
ragram^'' and Uiniojum. Oyaison^ after the death 

29* 



330 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

of JSirorii77i, separated from among the people many 
families, who accompanied him and his daughter Co- 
?^oii?ie, in a colonial enterprise ; for, in consequence of 
the rapid increase of population, the annual produc- 
tion of seeds on his lands, were insufficient to maintain 
so great a number, and, accordingly, the colonists com- 
menced their march. After travelling southwardly seven 
or eight leagues, or more, they arrived at a place called 
" Niguiti,^^ which is situated half a league only, N.E. 
from the mission. Here, they discovered a spring of 
fresh water, and from the favorable appearance of the 
neighboring country, they concluded that it was a place 
well adapted to the founding of a new colony. As soon 
as the erecting of their habitations was completed, and 
order had been established, the chief returned to " tSe- 
jat,''^ leaving behind, his daughter " Coronne.^^ 

Twenty summers had passed away, and still no feel- 
ings of love, or wish to marry, had ever been known to 
exist in the heart of Coronne. The Indians said that 
she was very coarse and fat — that they never had seen, 
or in fact, that there never was another of such propor- 
tions. The name given to the new estabhshment was 
" Putuidem,^^ which means " umbilicus projectura ;" for 
Coro7i7ie was afflicted with an enlargement of that or- 
gan, and this was their notion for so naming the settle- 
ment. In course of time, owing to the scarcity of grain, 
many of the inhabitants separated ; and, by permission 
of Coronne, located themselves about in different parts 
of the Valley of St. Juan ; and in this way originated 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 331 

the many small villages, or towns, which were to be met 
wdth, in the route to Putuidem. 

A custom was observed in all their new settlements, 
to appoint as chief or captain, the eldest of the families, 
and to him was given the name of Nu^ and to the sec- 
and in power, that of " EyacqueP Their wives were 
named, also ; the first " Coronne,'^ and the second 
*' TepiP These same appellations were given to a 
small insect, or fly, which was abundant in the fields 
and gardens, called by us the lady hug. The red ones 
were Coronnes^ and the yellow, Tepis ! The first 
was given to the wife of the chief, in commemoration 
of the Capitana of Putuidem^ and that of Tepi to the 
wife of Eyacque, for the reason that the two names im- 
plied equality, as demonstrated in the character of the 
insects who varied only in their colors. These names 
are the principal distinctions of rank, known among the 
Indians, and there are many of the present day, who, 
on account of their appellations, are considered and re- 
spected as descendants of Eyacque. 

A grand feast was given by Cororme^ of several 
days' continuance, and all the neighboring tribes were 
invited to attend, and take part in the amusements and 
rejoicings. The feast commenced with dancing, play- 
ing and singing, and all their accustomed games and 
usages followed ; but as in this world there cannot be 
complete happiness, or joy unadulterated, it happened 
that after she had retired for the night, whilst asleep, 
her body swelled up prodigiously, and in an instant be- 



332 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

came a mound of earth ; thereupon the people retired 
to their respective rancherias. In the place where the 
town was located, and where they celebrated the feast, 
there is a small rising ground, which was probably form- 
ed by the course of the water in a freshet : but the In- 
dians say, and religiously believe, that it is the body of 
Coronne. 

After having taken leave of their friends, who remain- 
ed sorrowful, and disconsolate for the loss of their Cap- 
itana, the Indians on returning home, arrived and put 
up for the night at a place called " Acagchemem,^^ dis- 
tant, from where the mission now stands, only about 
sixty yards ; and from this time the new colony assum- 
ed the name corresponding to the place. " Acagchemem," 
signifies a pyramidical form of any thing that moves, 
such as, an anthill, or place of resort for other insects. 
Others apply the term to things inanimate ; such as a 
pile of stones, &c.; but, the most correct signification of 
the word is understood as having relation to a heap of 
animated things. 

The motive alleged by the Indians, for having drop- 
ped the name of their nation, and substituted tliat of 
" Acagche^nem,^^ is that they passed the night before 
mentioned, literally piled upon each other ; men, wo- 
men, and children ; and when rising on the following 
morning, they vociferated " Acagchemem," implying, 
that they had slept in a heap ; and from that time the 
appellation remained as if to commemorate forever the 
event. 



THE INDIANS OF CALIIORNIA. 333 

When the Indians came to settle in the valley of St. 
Juan Capistrano, they spoke a language somewhat dis- 
tinct from the one now in use, and in a dialect, not dis- 
similar to the one used in St. Gabriel. They say the 
cause of the variation, originated with their chief" Oyai- 
sorij'^ who told them that as they were to change their 
place of residence, they were necessarily obliged to alter 
their mode of speech, as well as their customs, in order 
to become a distinct nation. 

The name, ^^Sejat," signifies a place of wild bees, and 
" Sejar 'pepauj'' the honey. In this region there were 
to be found many hives, located in holes formed in the 
earth. The Indians search for them at all times, to ex- 
tract the honey, and it is made use of in their food. The 
color is black, and it is rather bitter, but I have been in- 
formed that there are places, where it is to be found, of 
a kind, equally as good, as that which is extracted from 
the hives of the domestic species. 



334 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP 



CHAPTER XVI. 

THE CHARACTER OF THE INDIAN. 

To complete this history, and to give a relation of all 
my observations during a period of more than twenty 
years' residence in the province, it will be important to 
delineate the character of the Indians, as I have been 
enabled to learn it. The undertaking will be arduous, 
I know, and a curate of forty years 'residence among 
them, once told his bishop, " they were incomprehensi- 
ble" — to which I agree ; but nevertheless, I will make 
the attempt. My idea is that the natural, or Divine 
precepts implanted in the heart of man by his Creator, 
are by the Indians observed in a retrograde manner, or 
in the opposite sense — that is, the affirmative with them, 
is negative, and the negative, the affirmative ; and this 
opposition appears innate among all classes of them. An 
Indian curate of the Indians, appears to be of the same 
opinion, if we may judge from his description. " The 
Indians," he said, " lead a hfe of indolence, rather than 
devote themselves to the enlightening of their souls with 
ideas of civilization and cathohcism ; it is repugnant to 
their feelings, which have become vitiated by the unre- 
stricted customs among them. Their inclinations, to 
possess themselves of the property of others, are un- 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 335 

bounded. Their hypocrisy, when they pray, is as much 
to be feared, as their insolence, when in tumuUuous dis- 
order. They are never grateful for any benefit, nor do 
they pardon an injury, and they never proffer civilities, 
unless to accomplish some interested motive. They are 
ready to expose themselves to the greatest danger, to 
satisfy their predominant passions. The future from 
them, is ever veiled by the present. Tlieir inconstancy 
and want of confidence deprive them of friends, and he, 
who, by deception, holds them in subjection, may reduce 
them to almost abject slavery." Such is the picture of 
them drawn by this Indian curate, who was of Mexico, 
and I think, although referring to the Mexicans, it is 
sufficient to comprehend the general character of the 
Indian. Those of California are less curious, and m no 
wise so industrious; for the Mexicans, when in their gen- 
tilism, sowed and prepared the maize, as well as other 
grain for eating, and the females spun and wove a cov- 
ering for the body, out of cotton, which they also cul- 
tivated. 

The Indians of California may he compared to a spe- 
cies of monkey ; for in naught do they express interest, 
except in imitating the actions of others, and, particu- 
larly in copying the ways of the " razon," or white men, 
whom they respect as beings much superior to them- 
selves ; but in so doing, they are careful to select vice, 
in preference to virtue. This is the result, undoubtedly, 
of their corrupt, and natural disposition. 

The Indian, in his grave, humble and retired man- 



336 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF 

ner, conceals a hypocritical and treacherous disposition. 
He will deceive the most minute observer, as has been 
the case with many, or with all, who have endeavored 
to learn his character, until time has revealed to them 
his true quaUties. He never looks at any one, while in 
conversation, but has a wandering and mahcious gaze. 
For benefits received, he is never grateful ; and instead 
of looking upon that which is given, he beholds only 
that which is withheld. His eyes are never upUfted, 
but like those of the swine, are cast to the earth. Truth 
is not in him, unless to the injury of another, and he is 
exceedingly false. # * * * 



MYTHOLOGY. 

These Indians had the same belief as the Ancients, 
regarding the course of the sun, and believed that when 
he set, he went to repose in the arms of Thetis. He 
had twelve Palaces, which were placed at equal dis- 
tances around the earth ; in each of which, he was ac- 
customed to pass a month. These twelve palaces were 
marked by a circle, called the zodiac, but with signs, 
which alluded to certain passages in the fable. * 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 337 



r CHARACTERISTIC ANECDOTES OF THE INDIANS. 



A CHIEF of a rancheria, or village, not far distant 
from the Presidio of St. Diego, who had observed, with 
much attention, the manner and authority with which 
the " Comandante " governed his officers and soldiers, 
as well as the inhabitants of the place, had heard, also, 
that the King of Spain was their grand chief, to whom, 
they all owed allegiance, and in case of disobedience 
were liable to severe punishment, and even death. 
Desirous of imitating the domination of his royal 
|k master, he commenced a tyrannical use of his power, 
which gained him many enemies. However, it was of 
short duration. In 1822, when D. Agustin Yturbide 
was proclaimed Emperor of Mexico, and when his gov- 
ernment was recognized, in due form, at St. Diego, 
there were many Indians present, who listened atten- 
tively, to the declaration that Mexico no longer ac- 
knowledged the Spanish authority. The king (or vice- 
roy) had been deposed, and another placed in his stead, 
with the new title of Emperor. A few months after- 
wards, a grand feast was observed in the Indian village, 
to which all the neighboring Indians were invited. 
To commence the ceremonies, they burned their chief 
30 



338 HISTOllICAL ACCOUNT OF 

alive ! and elected another. The feast continued eight 
days, when the Indians dispersed and returned to their 
several homes. Those who lived in the Presidio, were 
censured for such inhumanity, which produced the fol- 
lowing remarks : — '• Have you not done in Mexico the 
same with the King of Spain ?" (meaning the Viceroy). 
" You say he was not good, and you killed him ! Well, 
our captain was not good, and we have burned him. 
Should the new one be bad, we will burn him also !" 

How little is the faith of these Indians in the teach- 
ings of the Catholic truths ! A missionary, of the mis- 
sion of St. Luis Rey, who had baptized several adults, 
the youngest of whom had reached his fiftieth year, at- 
tempted to explain, after the ceremony was concluded, 
the sort of life which they were to observe for tRe fu- 
ture ; and he told them what they were to do to avoid 
the influence of Satan. By invoking the sweet names 
of Jesus and Mary, he said, and by the sign of the holy 
cross, well performed, we destroy the power of the devil, 
and drive out all unholy thoughts. A satrap^ or gover- 
nor, of one of the rancherias, smilingly observed to the 
others, " See how this padre cheats us ! Who believes 
that the devil will leave us, by the sign of the cross ? 
If it were to be done by dancing, as authorized by Chi- 
nigchinich, he would depart ; but that he will do so, by 
the means which he says, I do not believe !" The 
others united with him in laughter, and appeared un- 
impressed with the efficacy of such ceremony. 



THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA. 339 

About the middle of Deceaibei-j 1823, a comet ap- 
peared in tlie north, whicii was visible until the latter 
part of January, of the ensuing year ; and in Septem- 
ber, 1825, another was seen. The latter appeared in the 
south-east, with its direction to the north-west, and was 
visible, though faintly, till the first of November. 

The Indians, who had observed them, believing they 
were their deceased chiefs, consulted together, as to the 
cause of their appearance, and were all of one opinion, 
that they denoted some important change in their des- 
tiny ; but how, or in what manner, it would be, they 
were ignorant. Some thought that they would return 
to their primitive mode of life ; that it was " Sirout,^' 
whom they had seen, he, who was the father of their 
grand captain Ouiot ; and when he came, he ever brought 
good things, for their profit and happiness. Others said 
no ! that it denoted that they were to live free, and do 
whatever they pleased, without being under subjection 
to any one ; yet they would still remain occupants of 
the mission. The elder ones said, Sir out foretold, that 
another people would come, who would treat them as 
slaves, and abuse them — that they would suffer much 
hunger and misery, and that the chief thus appeared, 
to call them away from the impending calamity. Others 
said, that the comet was " Tacw," the father of " Oiii- 
amot " or " Chinigchinich" which was generally as- 
sented to. These ideas have, undoubtedly, arisen from 
the fact, that when the declaration of independence 
was proclaimed in Mexico, the Indians were made to 



340 HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OP 

believe, that they would no longer be subject to the reg- 
ulations of the missions ; that each family, or person, 
would live separate, as colonists. But the government, 
considering them unfit for such a condition, has not 
made any innovation, up to the present time of Novem- 
ber, 1825. 



An Indian " vaqueroj'' of the mission of San Luis 
Obispo, who had been despatched on business, to some 
place not far distant, did not make his appearance until 
the day following, and then so pallid and trembling, 
that he could hardly speak. Upon inquiring as to what 
ailed him, he replied, " that being in a certain place, a 
phantom appeared before him, which prevented his 
progress ; and his horse, though vigorous, remained im- 
moveable at the sight. The phantom commanded him 
to tell his people not to travel in that direction, for if 
they did, he should molest them ! Immediately, three 
of us, padres, went out, with " vaqueros^^ and other In- 
dians, and remained all that day about the same spot, 
but nothing was seen of the phantom. 

In a certain " rancho^'' or farm, were several Pima 
Indians, and some S agues ^ who were employed in 
erecting a building ; he who directed them, was one of 
the razon^ or native Spaniards. One day, whilst su- 
perintending the work, he discovered, concealed, in one 
of the apartments, a small wooden ball, which had 
around it, an unfinished crown of thorns. He enquired 



THE INDIANS OP CALIFORNIA. 341 

of a " Saguij^^ what it was for. " Ah ! Sir," he re- 
plied, " you have really escaped ; with this ball you 
would have been destroyed. You were to be killed 
for having chastised the Pima Indian, and only two 
days more were required ; that is, until the completion 
of the crown of thorns around the ball ; then, imme- 
diately, you would have been attacked with pains in 
the head and heart, and would have died. 






35;77-2 



